400 low buck dont give a

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man talk about being taken to the cleaners..i ordered the cam bearing and freeze plug kit for a local place.. 67.44.:wack:. they charged my 24.00 shipping..:violent1:. what the hell.. never will spend another dime there..trying to support the local mom and pop place and get **** on...:finga: i could have ordered from summit or jegs and never leave the house for less... .. cam suppose to be shipped today(had problems with that.) so now all i need is the springs, may get new valves for the heads if i can find a nice price on them ,locks,ret,and seals.. at lease i can try and get the rest of the short block going for now,, oh gasket. set .lol:cheers:
 
Thats wrong. You dont pay shipping when ordering with a local outfit,as your order comes with thier regular stock order,so the shipping is absorbed. I wouldnt go back either.
 
yep i am done with them.. i could have sit home and ordered off the puter and not cost that much in shipping..:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
well picked up the old hone today, cam should go out this week i hope..:banghead::banghead::banghead: got most all the parts to put this thing together now i have to find time before i go out of town to work... wish i could get it in and drive it 1 time ( well i just wont to spin a damn tire) to be honest since its been so long ......:D:D:D:D:Dsprings are on the way,now i gotta load it up and go see my buddy bob...:prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer: do the oil mods,:D:D:D:D ...so its coming guys .. would be cool if i could catch the local track and make a pass...:burnout::burnout::burnout:
 
cam bearing tool showed up today nice looking tool.. got some of the other stuff i need but still no damn cam... the guys is rolling me over the coals i think..:wack: i have about all the parts to put it together except the cam and a few gaskets that i can pick up at the local auto zone...anyway the store that i got my other parts from that charged me 24.00 in shipping called me and said come get some of the shipping back so they are going to give me 9.00 of that back...:D will keep everybody up to date on it as i can.. :cheers:
 
well guy pm me and said cam is on the way..:cheers: so now i just need lifters, and got a chance to get some adjustable rockers ,.. :D:D:D:D
 
well to add more to this i got a found a set of adjustable rockers for the motor so now i have to get some push rods.:D.this little motor should run pretty good when all said and done..:prayer::prayer:. little past the budget i would have like to kept but hey thats how it goes....:wack: hopefully my cam will show up mon. or tuesday.. i have to do the oil mods then its time to install the cam bearing and start the build.. i plan to check everything out as i go ...if anybody has any low deck push rods that will work or may let me know the length i need some..:glasses7::sad5:
 
earthmover said:
hey moper when i took it apart i did try and measure it a little bite.. the piston was down in the hole about 42th. i used some feller gauges to measure it.. not the best way to measure but i was just getting a idea of what to look for..i plan to get some new bearing this week for the crank,rod and will get a better idea, and see where we stand...but i do know its not the 100th or 70th that i have heard people say, its no where near there....:D

also i plan to cut the 906 heads down just a little to help out on the compression... its just going to be a nice little street car....lol
Click to expand...

You should get a dial indicator and measure that right, also cc the heads before you start milling.

Also, if the cam bearings look ok, I would not change them. I have seen a few big block Mopars you have to trim the bearings once they are in, because the damn cam won't spin.
 
well new cam is here ups just dropped it off..gonna do a few things to it today and see what i come up with.. :D:D:D:D:D
 
:thumblef:well started to put the motor together today... pressure washed it clean,blasted all the bolt holes,even basted the freeze plug area..blow dried the block painted, and started the build...installed the freeze plugs with a touch of gasket former,chased the treads,installed the cam bearing..man this cam bearing tool i got is worht every dime..(paid for itself today)lol i paid 60.00 bucks for it off ebay..got the main bearing installed and ready for the crank but called it a night gotta work tom. so :D dont have a computer to post pics on right now since my puter took a dump the other day for some reason....got the crank ready for a little polish tom. also hone the cylinders out with wd 40and clean them ...will post some pics when i can...gonna order the lifters tom. also so they will be here shortly..gonna wait on the head gaskets til i see how close/far i am on the pv clearence with the cam..also gotta cc heads..:shock:

but i do have a ????? for you guys.. i have a set of ported 906 heads that i was goning to put on this motor,also have a set of 452 heads that was on the motor.. i have some port templets and was thing should i port the 452 heads or use the 906 heads that are already ported???so come on guys whats the best way to guy...:yawinkle::yawinkle::yawinkle::yawinkle::yawinkle:
 
Well the 452's will have hardened valve seats,but the 906 will flow a bit more depending on how it was ported. Possibly you could get the 452 to flow just as well with some template work. Not sure if the 906 has hardened seats,could if they were installed ya? You should check to see if the guides are good as well.I think the comp will be a bit healthier with the 906 tho...Dont forget to check em for cracks before putting in the work.
 
My biggest thing to look at would be the hardened exhaust seats. If the 906 heads don't have them the exhaust valve seats will not last long with unleaded fuel before they start to leak.
 
To be honest about the hardened exhaust seat subject, I have heard different ideas on this subject. Some say that the valves won't last running unleaded fuel. Others say that unless you are running the engine extremely hard for long periods of time ( like a work truck hauling heavy loads) to create a lot of heat around the exhaust valve they will be fine without hardened seats. I have a set of small block heads I thought about having hardened seats put in. Since this was brought up in your thread yesterday I called my machinist and asked him. He told me if I wanted them put in he would do it, but then said he didn't think I really needed them and to save my money for other parts.
 
Or just run thr 452's which have hardened seats already,and with a bit of work will flow just as good as the 906...
 
well went to put the main bearing in the motor today and ran into a problem ..i like to install the bottom bearing and turn the crank to make sure its free and get a feel for it... so i installed the bottom bearings and then start the top caps and bearing,i put all the bearings in the caps with ***. lube and then install the bearing and place them where the go..i like to start in the midd. and go out 1 in 1 from the midd. so i start in the midd. and run the bolts down by hand and damn crank no longer spin.. what the hell.. the mains out the motor are at/20 74 and i ordered new 20under main bearing:violent1::violent1::violent1::violent1: so now i am stumpped what the hell is going on.....is there diff. bearing for the 400 block or something????:wack: i hate this cause its going to cost me time and more money if the bearings are diff. but hey what do i know...an now i will be gone out of town working..leaving tonight for va...something all the time...as far as the heads go i am going with the 906 heads as long as i have the pv clearence i need to use them, they are already ported and just need to install the valves and springs i need for them.. they came off a running car so i think they will be ok.. as far as the 452 i will try and port them by the templetes i have while i have the time in the shop........
 
1st, Don't put assembly lube between the bearing shell and the block/cap. 2nd, If the thrust surfaces are not lined up top to bottom, the cap may wedge itself against the crank upon tightening the bolts. This is #3 main cap you are working with, right?
 
yes thats right #3.... the bearings i took out are marked at20 74 and the new bearings are 4094m20 i will clean the ***. out from under the caps and start over .. when i did my small block i did the same and no problem so thats just the way i did this 1..thabks IQ will see what goes on and report back
 
:finga::shock::shock::boxing::boxing:well i think i have found the problem but not really sure..:shock::shock:well went back out to the shop for a few mins. and took all the bearings back out and cleaned them off ..something told me to check the part numbers on the bearing and make sure they match the box... and i will be damn the numbers on the bearings are 2321cp:wack: and the part number on the box is 4094m20 which is the bearing i need.. i tried looking up the 2321cp and came up with nothing..anyway i put the b ottom bearing back in the block and set the crank in it to look things over a little more and the crank its self is setting on the sides of the bearing and not even seatting it self down on the bearing..took the mics and check the crank and came up with 2.60 and the bearing is 2.58:finga: what the world is going on here???? i know i should have checked the bearings anyway but have had them here for some time now and just thought that they was right by the part number on the box..never thought that it would be a diff. part in the box...damn now i have to leave town and wont be back for a while and the thing will just sit here til then..:wack::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
If the machine shop put a radius on the mains and the bearings arent the right shape,it would cause a lot of friction. Lot's of lube on the mains,seat the cap and finger tighten the bolts.Rotate the crank,and remove the bolts/cap. Have a look at the pattern in the lube. It will tell you where the crank is contacting and where there is clearance.And one main at a time...
 
crank not going in the bearing its hitting the side and not allowing it to sit in the bearing at all wrong bearing i think in the wrong package...but will have to wait now since i am on my way out of town to work for a while.. wish i would have checked the numbers on it all when i got them but the package was unopened so i fig. hey must be the right parts guess not..:banghead::banghead: but i guess thats the way it goes from time to time..anybody know what the main bearing 2321cp fit??? i have yet to find anything..but the 4094m20 is the bearing i had suppose to got...
 
Looks like the 2321cp is an old Mcquay Norris number for the 383/400. In standard size it would fit a 2.625" crank. If they measure approximately 2.58" they would be a .040" under bearing. Do they have any other numbers besides the 2321cp?
 
Sorry o havent posted in a few day but i am out of town working .i will be back home for turkey day and back out of town again..gonna try to have new bearing when i get there to get this car going anyway..not sure ehen i will be able to work on my chassis car as i am suppose to be here til about march..i want to have both cars goiu ng before then.but we will see.anybody on here close to ahoskie nc and sulfur va? Thats where i am would ne cool me meet mopar guys..only have my phone for net so wont be on much.mike
 
I'll be interested to know what you end up doing with your 400 earthmover, as I just acquired a 400BB myself. Best of luck. -Dan
 
:Dwell guys this is not going to die ..lol I just been working on my race car..plan to have it done by my birthday so I have to push it and this has to take a back seat to it..going to get back on it soon...
 
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