410 Compression Test and tuning.

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KnuckleDuster

KnuckleDuster

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Location
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10.1:1 CR
Comp XE285HL


Can't get to 5 or 7 with the header on but with about four full revoloutions all the others read 150-152 psi cold and dry. Will check the last two when I get the header off in a bit to install the Remflex gaskets to hopefully seal a header leak on 3 or 5. Do these numbers sound about right for this combo?

Here's the plugs. Autolite 3924's #8 is a little darker



View attachment knuckle 1 (Small).jpg



Wondering if I should try a different plug while I have them out. If not I will check gaps and reinstall.

I have a vacuum fluctuation of about 2hg and my Holley tuning video says it could be ignition related.
I have new Taylor wires, Accel cap and rotor, MSD Blaster-2 pn 8202 coil and 6al box.
 
Try a NGK FR5 plug. It's what I used with that compression and cam size
 
If theyre that even, youre good.
Could probably run 87E10 with those numbers. I ran it in my 366 Eddie headed combo with 185psi at one time, and currently with 165 psi.That was with a 3.58 stroke. Your 4"arm will dwell at the top a little longer, but with your psi, with a tight quench design,I would certainly try it as a 2bbl. If it passes that, Id move up;gently.Without the tight quench,Ummmmm, maybe not.

If its drifting 2 inches at idle, thats likely a mixture thing.If its a regular drop, could be more serious.http://www.imperialclub.org/Repair/Fuel/VacuumGauge/index.htm
 
Got sidelined trying to fit new trans lines.
The center link and swaybar had to come off to remove the old ones. I was concerned about a pinch from the last engine install, upon inspection I found the pinch wasn't too bad, but there was a blockage of something in one line.

The good news- I already had a new set from Inline Tube.
The bad news- they won't fit!
The passenger side line is close enough I could probably tweak it and make it work...the driver's side is a no go. The end fittings are not even close to the right plane. One end has the bend around the sway bar and the trans end is 45° off.
At $75 cost and shipping, I am not twisting or rebending. They are getting these back, hopefully they will do me right , since thier website says the customer pays shipping on returns and I already paid over $30 shipping a $45 part.

Ordering was a pain because neither Inline or Fine Lines has a website thats functional enough to use on a smartphone. Time to get some 21st century IT, boys!

I'll let you all know how they play it. Either way I just lost a week or two of springtime.
 
Hey Ty,
No 8 does look darker.If you put those plugs back in,
put no 8 in cylinder one to see if it burns clean.Swap plug wires 8 and 7.
If after running plug one is still dark it is the plug.
If plug 7 is darker it is the plug wire.
Look closely for carbon tracks on dist cap !!!
Have You tried blowing out the old tranny lines with compressed air/brake clean?
If you get them clear you could continue diagnosing...
 
Spoke to Chuck at Inline Tube about the drIver's side line being 45° off. He says they are all thus way and they have had no complaints. These are the same pictures I sent him. To meet the fitting the end should be perpendicular to the loop under the swaybar. Anybody run into this? Didn't want to bend or twist the line until I was sure I had the correct line to begin with.
 

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Finally got a day to work on the car.
Pulled the trans pan and swapped to a Felpro gasket along with some Permatex high tack, and put an o-ring in the speedo cable connector. Hopefully this puts an end to the puddles.
Modified the trans lines and got them in.
Swapped the Remflex header gaskets in, thankfully the rear driver side header bolt took two minutes this time instead of two hours like last time.

Now just need to refill the trans, and put the center link and sway bar back on, and I can get back to trying to tune.

Also re-gapped the plugs at .040, found some about .050, maybe why my vacuum was bouncing...I hope...

Gonna do a compression test on those last two cylinders, check the float levels, time it with my Mighty Vac, check it with my new Innova light, and then decide if
I need to swap back to the Mallory distributor.
 
No puddles!...yay Permatex!
Yes, if I ever pull the pan again I will have to break out the razor blades, this stuff will not give up before the gasket seperates, but I have never had a leak after using it!
Got the trans lines to hug the oil pan better and sit further away from the driver's side header.
Reinstalled the sway bar and center link.
Slow progress but I take my time.
Next put the booster back in and start tuning.

I know, not the most exciting reading, but the updates help keep me motivated.
 
Glad you making some progress.
If you need a hand this weekend just holler.
I doubt, I will make it to Little River due to the rain....
 
If you get up this way Sunday I might could use a hand setting timing and sorting out the car. Let me know...Lunch and beer on me.
I still need to change the diff gasket, too...wonder if I should do the bearings while I'm at it?

The 15th is Mopar vs. The World at Little River...you going?
 
I can make it out this Sunday morning,going to spend the afternoon at my moms for Mother's Day and she is out that way.
If the weather holds out,I will make Friday night at Little River ...if not make the 15th for sure...more so for the test and tune,last weekend me and 06 charger were they only mopars.(chevy vs ford shoot out)
 
WOW!!!
I'm blown away, TX Dart came by today and we spent a couple hours tuning on the car. He came by after visiting his Mother and had to drive 15 mi extra North just to get here, which made for an extra long drive home...we got a late start but what a great favor!
Super nice guy!

We got a base timing to start from, set the floats and played with the mixture.
The car was way overtimed.
For the start we used the dialback set to 36° at 2800rpm which put us at 15° initial. We only had time for one test drive and the car ran MUCH better, but got up to 240°F on the highway, we made it back but had to call it a day. We know there is much more to do, but we had to let it cool and ran out of time. We didn't have a chance to mess with the distributor or check the whole curve.
We are leaning towards the problem being the 2 row 22" radiator and 6 blade clutch fan is just not up to cooling this engine. Curious if you folks have any more insight or experience with this problem?
 
Did it stop advancing at 2800 or did you just pick that number?

imo, 15* is not enough initial for that cam to get it to clean up. That's stock cam initial timing territory.
 
crackedback said:
Did it stop advancing at 2800 or did you just pick that number?

imo, 15* is not enough initial for that cam to get it to clean up. That's stock cam initial timing territory.
Click to expand...

He picked it just to start with to get the carb in the ballpark. I had everything all over the place...it was just a first step to get it out on the road to check out what it was doing and check the adjustment on the trans kickdown. We just were short on time to really start dialing it in.
 
crackedback said:
Did it stop advancing at 2800 or did you just pick that number?

imo, 15* is not enough initial for that cam to get it to clean up. That's stock cam initial timing territory.
Click to expand...
Hey Rob
It did stop advancing up to 3000 rpm(36 solid). More concerned with getting a base tune to rule out bad tune causing overheat gets to 210 pretty quick.
Initial is at 15 and we left the vacuum advance disconnected for are test drive!
I agree initial is low my teen with a xe275hl is at 22 initial and 36 at 2800.
We had to let her cool from timing, to carb float adjustment ,to air fuel adjustments.
Did not actually get to 240 on highway that happened at a long light.
Running 230 on the highway home.(short 2-3 mile jog after long light)
He is running a spectre 22 inch 2 row radiator and needs more radiator....
Sweet car and is solid....
Would appreciate any advice on tuning but would you agreed we need more radiator First!
 
Martin I can't thank you enough for taking the time! (no pun)

You're only the second person to ever drive my car, hopefully that showed some trust and appreciation, but I still owe you a badass meal or something! Above and beyond, man, glad we met.
 
Hey no problem...
I just de-tuning your Stroker so my teen will beat ya at Little River !!!
Talk to ya soon Ty.
 
TXDart said:
Hey no problem...
I just de-tuning your Stroker so my teen will beat ya at Little River !!!
Talk to ya soon Ty.
Click to expand...


LOL!
Only if we switch drivers!

J/K....maybe we will to see what you can do with 100 more ci!
Motivate you to get that stroker together!
 
That's good to get a handle on a baseline.

Don't know which distributor, but it sounds like you have the total number figured out. Get the initial correct and make any adjustments. You will get it squared away.

Does it have a thermostat or restrictor washer in the upper radiator line. Could be the water is moving too quickly. The overheating could be timing related depending on RPM.

Nice Duster!
 
Right now '72 Mopar with slots

165° stat, changing to 180 this week.
At idle stays at 185-190° ,climbs on highway.
 
If there is any gap between the radiator and the yoke, fill it in, maybe some tape/sticky foam/weatherstrip tape, drive it and see if sealing the radiator to yoke helps.

If you aren't running something like Justice Bros radiator cooler, you could try it.
 
Installed a Robertshaw 330-180 stat. Took it out to get gas and drove about six blocks. Got stuck at a couple long lights and it was 225° when I got gas. Fired it up and the idle in park jumped up about 200 rpm. Sputtered twice on the half mile ride home...almost like a really weak backfire. :banghead:
 
Gonna try another radiator I had rodded but didn't use for cosmetic reasons. Thinking I might have a clog.

Worried about the idle jumping...Is it possible an intake leak could cause this?
Maybe when it heats up it seals and pulls more vacuum and air, leans out the mixture and causing overheat?
Just tired of chasing my tail.
 
I would back total timing down to 32-34 max also you may be leaning out slightly on upper rpm's If it still heats up after that you need more air flow thru radiator.
 
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