440 A body header options

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Thought hooker made some too...but they were fender well style. I went with Schumacher myself just for ease of install and wanting to keep both my fenders and power steering.
 
Thanks guys ive been looking into all of them the schumachers look awesome for fitment but i dont know how much it would kill on performance. Probably gonna go with the tti's. How are they with starter clearance?
 
I used the Schumacher and TTI headers (http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Category-ClassicHeaders/440-200/TTi440-200_RB.htm). Here is what I discovered, this was in a 71 Dart, RB, Auto.

Schumachers bolted in nice, I started with power steering and had no issues. Power was nice care pulled low 13's on a mild build and 2.5 exhaust.
- What I could have done is grind out the exhaust ports a bit to make a little more power, these are a bit restrictive. Also install, plug changes worked very nice, no issue, this was great header

Same car - I later moved from PS to manual box

TTI's - Install was a PITA, at the time I was rebuilding my trans, so it was out. I had to lift the engine and remove the torsion bars, however the headers fit. I ended up drilling a hole in the passenger fender to change #6 plug. However these headers perform, build more power and sound wicked, I used 3" TTI exhaust with cross over and bullet to back wheels. I believe there are a few videos if you look through my past threads. These are tight and take time to install. MUST have a mini starter and if it ever goes out, you may need to pull a couple of items to change it.

Side note - under hood temperatures. If I ever do another BB A, I will install coated headers to help reduce heat, regardless of header I use.

This is my 2 cents and what I have learned - other may have a different view or better skillset-
 
There was a thread on here about them - do a quick search. I did look at them, price and the unknown kept me away.
 
I have Hooker fenderwells, nice for a racecar but wouldnt want them for a streetcar but thats looking like what Im gonna end up with for street use. The cars previous owners removed the inner fenders so fit is no problem at all LOL, easy access to everything and literally can toss em on from top or bottom. I would much rather have some nice chassis headers and gladly put up with some fitment probs.
 
67barracudafastback said:
Thanks guys ive been looking into all of them the schumachers look awesome for fitment but i dont know how much it would kill on performance. Probably gonna go with the tti's. How are they with starter clearance?
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Switching from schumachers to TTI's is worth almost a half second in the 1/4 according to their own testing. My car ran much better after switching to TTI's not just performance wise but idle quality, ran cooler and just all around responded well to them. Quieted the car down too.

You can't beat the Schumachers for fit. You can install them with the engine bolted in place.

The TTi's are a MF to install. There are clearance issues in many places.

Can't say for sure which way I'd go on my next build but it would be between those 2.
 
The Schumacher Tri-Y, for a shorty small tube header performs.I installed them on a 451"B" in a 65 Plymouth Belvedere,Auto,3500 stall,4.10 rear weighing in at 3600 lbs. The car had a mild Comp Cam @ 490 lift, duration 236 @ .050,separation 108.(by no means a large cam) 750 Edelbrock on a Torker 383 intake and Eldelbrock RPM heads 88cc out of the box.I could run the car on regular gas. Ran the headers open with a 18''x 2 1/2''extension.Best time was 11.90 @ 110 mph.The engine had 30,000+ street miles on it before taking it to the track. I think they do a very good job for what they are and are so easy to install.
Yes the TTI's are better all round performer and cost about the same.Also look much better whan you open the hood. Just wanted to pass this info along.
 

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Yes, coated TTI's. Yes, I drilled a access hole for # 4 #6 plug which made it super easy to change plugs. I would buy them again.
 

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I had maddogs on my dart and at that time they where a B motor manual trans only header. They are also 2" primary tubes and a multi piece race header, the collectors kind of aimed on an angle under the crossmember. I ran them on the street and didnt have issues but you may if your car is lowered at all. I always said that if I did it again for a street car I would use Schumachers.
 
67barracudafastback said:
Been researching. Found some good and bad feed back not much feedback at all. Price and unkown keeping me away too.
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I have a set of new Maddog headers that I'm about to install on a 383 A-body & 4-speed. They were $600 bare. TTI's were the same cost- plus you have to get their $100 custom z-bar to fit them.:wack:
Mark guarenteed me they will fit perfectly with the factory z-bar. I'll post pics here next week on the fit. I do like that every tube comes apart at the collector for ease of install/removal. We'll see!:happy1::coffee2:
 
I have TTi's on my 69 440 Dart wanted a true in fenderwell header and I didn't consider a tri-y a true header... the TTi's are a very tight fit ....they touch around the steering box and come close around 3 plugs requiring special wrapping and the purchase of 7 mm plug wires and the wires still end up burning...overall I am not too happy with them but I didn't have much choice when putting this together....they were the only true in fender well header manufactured at the time
 
A couple other tight spots with the TTI's was the starter, the t-bars and the collector bolts and the trans mount bolts on the pass side
 
KAMSGTS440 said:
I have TTi's on my 69 440 Dart wanted a true in fenderwell header and I didn't consider a tri-y a true header... the TTi's are a very tight fit ....they touch around the steering box and come close around 3 plugs requiring special wrapping and the purchase of 7 mm plug wires and the wires still end up burning...overall I am not too happy with them but I didn't have much choice when putting this together....they were the only true in fender well header manufactured at the time
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Just wrap the wires with some header wrap making boots, or buy some boots to protect them (see my picture of the boots on passenger side). If you take your time with fitment, you won't have any issues., never had a plug wire burn, was running 8mm Morso wires. if the headers were hitting stuff, they were not installed per instructions. maybe the car had been hit at one time, narrowing the engine compartment. Mine fit perfect, didn't hit anything. I took lots of time to make them fit correct.
A flaming River coupler will help, but I didn't use one, just slightly modified the rag joint on the steering (see picture).
I must add, I ran a JW Ultra bell adapter and glide case, which the headers were not designed with. Only modification was the shift linkage, which was no big deal.
I also ran a mid plate, which made removing the trans to get the starter out an issue. But never had to do that. It was the mid plate that caused the issue, not the TTI's.
 
It's not tight at the coupler. It's tight at the box itself. The picture of the blue car shows it pretty well.

Spot on about not needing boots. If you are careful about plug routing they are unnecessary.
 
roccodart440 said:
It's not tight at the coupler. It's tight at the box itself. The picture of the blue car shows it pretty well.

Spot on about not needing boots. If you are careful about plug routing they are unnecessary.
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Agree^^^^

The blue car was mine.....Didn't have any issues with the box at all, just at the coupler which was close, but an easy fix..
 
The blue car was mine.....Didn't have any issues with the box at all, just at the coupler which was close, but an easy fix..[/QUOTE]

What exactly are we looking at in your blue car picture dusterdrag? Are those MP heads? They look to have straight rather than angled plugs and what size tubes on the tti's?
Did you just need a dent in the tube for the coupler?
Thanks for sharing your experience here.
 
If you look at that picture there is tons of clearance between the header and the coupler. Look where the 2nd cylinder back goes down past the box. Tight...
 
ssba said:
The blue car was mine.....Didn't have any issues with the box at all, just at the coupler which was close, but an easy fix..
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What exactly are we looking at in your blue car picture dusterdrag? Are those MP heads? They look to have straight rather than angled plugs and what size tubes on the tti's?
Did you just need a dent in the tube for the coupler?
Thanks for sharing your experience here.[/QUOTE]

Your welcome. We are looking at how good they fit.
They are bulldog heads, exactly like Indy EZ's. The plugs are angled. Didn't have to dent anything at all. I wasn't going to dent $1000.00 coated headers, or I would have sent them back.
They are the 2" TTI's.I would buy them and use them again in a New York minute. I spent hours researching headers before I bought them. I knew about Mad Dog and all the others.
I didn't do any mod to the coupler (grinding or cutting it), it was the rubber retainer. I ground it down to the size of the coupler, and used a 1/4" hose clamp to hold it in place (you can see in picture). The 4 dog ears hit the header slightly, that solved the issue.
If I was to do it again, I would step up and buy the Flaming River coupler for $175.00.Much cleaner looking. I was at the end of the build, was tired of spending money, so I just used the stock coupler. It didn't hit at all, it had to do with the boot retainer. I intended to replace it "Some Day", but never did.
As mentioned before, I spent a lot of time on fitment. Cut 2 small holes on the pass side for easier plug access, but all the plugs were easy, except for #'s 4&6.
I also determined the car had been hit on the drivers side, because the splash panel (inner fender well) was replaced. They did a good job, but the compartment was a little tighter (frame squeezed), but they still fit awesome.
Close to everything, didn't hit anything.
 
I have B & E body headers for mine... If you want some new unused Hooker fender well headers send me a PM, we can work a deal. I couldn't stand to cut my fender wells up.
 
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