440 pistons Help

[JoeDust451]

I deleted those pics i had, i should've kept the measurements, i would have to mock it up again to make the linkage, but i'm strapped on a Weiand TR & carbs. The reason you get - feedback on the TR is plain & simple, those guys never ran one & don't have a clue, but if they ever tried one & failed, then they didn't take the time to dial it in & gave up, so they assume there junk, or they had the wrong set-up for the street, the Weiand D shape TR & 2 600 1850s are about the best street set-up out there, so just blow them off, & i'll help you get it dialed in "if needed", then you can laugh at them in the end!!

You really want to match the converter to the torque curve of the engine for best results, gears only help you get into the curve quicker along with the stall "flash stall", an 11" 3000 stall will work, but a 9.5" 4500 stall will work much better, if its built "right", it won't react like most cheap converters, like for instance a TCI, IMO there junk, especially in a Mopar, there is a difference between "stall" & "flash stall", plus converter "slippage", your running 4.10 gears, its going to be above 2700 at 60 on the highway, even with 28" tires, this is do to "slippage", you want some, but not alot, cheapo converters have alot.

 

[72ScampTramp]

I did know that was the key to a T-ram on street. Its about tuning I know that. The linkages are over 100 bucks but hey whats more money at this point lol. Its just get old hearing it cant be done or shouldn't be done its nice to hear someone say it can for once.


Not aruging but that seems like alot of converter for a street car.

 

[JoeDust451]

I did know that was the key to a T-ram on street. Its about tuning I know that. The linkages are over 100 bucks but hey whats more money at this point lol. Its just get old hearing it cant be done or shouldn't be done its nice to hear someone say it can for once.


Not aruging but that seems like alot of converter for a street car.

Yeah, it may sound like alot of converter for the street, but you'de be surprized how good a well built unit would act.

You can make your own linkage, i'm not the smartest monkey in the tree, if i can do it, so can you, just need to be creative, all you need is some aluminum stock, a drill/tape measure & some nuts & bolts, all your really makeing is a big "T", the top bar crosses from carb too carb, & the down bar is what you hook the throttle to, i even ran my kickdown off of it on my D100 lol, i ran the factory carb stud that comes on the mopars.

 

[72ScampTramp]

Ok now that my piston questions are answered. Im trying to utilize as many stock parts as I can.

Im running a stock cast crank. What needs to be done to make this work? I am changing out pistons to the L2355s. Using stock rods.

Whats the best way to go about this. Build combo should put me at or close to 500hp. I have lots of questions about this but dont know how to ask.

whats better internally or externally balanced?

Can a cast crank be balanced either way?

If its able to be intrenally balanced do I need a new damper?

Will the old damper work?

There may be lots of questions im not asking thats because as of now i dont know of any other variables if Im forgetting something let me know.

 

[JoeDust451]

Ok now that my piston questions are answered. Im trying to utilize as many stock parts as I can.

Im running a stock cast crank. What needs to be done to make this work? I am changing out pistons to the L2355s. Using stock rods.

Whats the best way to go about this. Build combo should put me at or close to 500hp. I have lots of questions about this but dont know how to ask.

whats better internally or externally balanced?

Can a cast crank be balanced either way?

If its able to be intrenally balanced do I need a new damper?

Will the old damper work?

There may be lots of questions im not asking thats because as of now i dont know of any other variables if Im forgetting something let me know.

Ok, heres the deal, your goal is 500hp, the rods should be re-sized with ARP bolts, but by the time you do the machineing & bolts on the stock rods, for say another 100.00, you can get a nice I been rod thats much stronger, now i'm not saying the stock rods won't hold up, i ran stock rods with ARP wave-lok bolts with 520hp, had about 250 passes on them, never an issue, but if i ever build another BB at that HP level, it'll get new rods. Now this was on a lowdeck 400 with 440 internals, the crank throws were cut way down, & the pistons were ross light weights, so the rotating mass was much lighter, i'm sure thats why the rods survived.

For the balanceing, just have it externally done, use the same balancer, get a B&M flexplate for the build, take it all to the machine shop & let them take care of it, most machine shops send there stuff off for balanceing anyways, heres a tip, if you don't pull it up passed 6000, you might not have to balance it running the TRWs, because they were a stock type "weighted" forged replacement piston, so there just about the same weight as the stockers, running the B&M flexplate allows you to run a "neutral" balanced converter, no weights!! But if you really want a long lasting engine, have it balanced, another option is finding a steel crank & matching balancer, then its alot easier.

I beleive there were 440s that came with cast cranks that were internally balanced, i think this was around 71-72.

 

[yellow73dart]

Don't let anyone say a T-ram isn't streetable . I think mine is perfect for the street . I can also say that a cast externally ballanced crank and stock rods will work fine , but I would replace the bolts .