We've got princess auto, they can be had the next day ;)
At any rate will this be the right size? 5/16 x 18 x 2 1/2
Thanks!
451 overheating, even when moving
- Thread starter canajien
- Start date
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At any rate will this be the right size? 5/16 x 18 x 2 1/2
Thanks!
Got the mechanical fan on, and put the rad back, not a lot of wiggle room, hopefully that rad doesn't expand half an inch ;).
And then I ran it for 15 or 17 mins, not as hot a day today, but still mid 25, or 30 with humidex (75 to 85f?)
Temp gauge did not go past 185
Hose at top where it goes in 182-4
Hose at bottom 154-6
Thermostat housing 195-7
#1 header at the manifold 880
No puking
Previously I had:
The gauge was likely close to 200, just a recollection as I didn't note that
Hose at top 205
Lower hose next to the rad 195
Thermostat housing 212
#1 header nearly 1000
While the measured temps were cooler today, the spread between the upper and lower hoses went up from 10 to 30 degrees. I think some progress has been made with the efan pushing and the mechanical fan pulling.
I'll take it out for a bit tomorrow and see how it behaves after 15 or 20 mins driving.
Next up is to adjust the timing.
And then I ran it for 15 or 17 mins, not as hot a day today, but still mid 25, or 30 with humidex (75 to 85f?)
Temp gauge did not go past 185
Hose at top where it goes in 182-4
Hose at bottom 154-6
Thermostat housing 195-7
#1 header at the manifold 880
No puking
Previously I had:
The gauge was likely close to 200, just a recollection as I didn't note that
Hose at top 205
Lower hose next to the rad 195
Thermostat housing 212
#1 header nearly 1000
While the measured temps were cooler today, the spread between the upper and lower hoses went up from 10 to 30 degrees. I think some progress has been made with the efan pushing and the mechanical fan pulling.
I'll take it out for a bit tomorrow and see how it behaves after 15 or 20 mins driving.
Next up is to adjust the timing.
That fan is too close to the rad. Engine movement, body flex etc & the fan may contact the rad....& take it out.
I would get a shorter spacer....or take the current spacer to a machine shop & have 1" removed from it.
I would get a shorter spacer....or take the current spacer to a machine shop & have 1" removed from it.
I agree. If you have a way to cut it straight, I would cut that spacer in half. You could try it without the spacer, but the fan may hit the pulleys then. I'd sure try it. IT's way too close. Sounds like you're gaining on it though.
A good bodyman can jack that core support 1/2" ahead at the radiator.
Of course we all knew that. . . . .
Then you can lose that pusher fan too, with the mount bracket that is blocking air flow.
Also cut 2" out of that upper radiator hose at the thermostat to help take the "Bubble Loop" out of the top of the hose for better flow into the radiator .
Then take it out for a drive.
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Of course we all knew that. . . . .
Then you can lose that pusher fan too, with the mount bracket that is blocking air flow.
Also cut 2" out of that upper radiator hose at the thermostat to help take the "Bubble Loop" out of the top of the hose for better flow into the radiator .
Then take it out for a drive.
* * * * *
I actually did that to Vixen after my good buddy @waggin was up for a visit and noticed the core support was actually pushed back some. I got my port a power and jacked it out a little. I think it was like that on assembly, because the car's never been hit in the front at all. If his core support is straight, I'm not sure I would push it proud, but it's certainly something to look at. I took and measured mine on each side where the inner fender meets the core support and again in the center. There was about a full inch difference. I jacked it out even. I never in a million years would have guessed it was back that much until I measured it. It was deceiving.
Yeah, then the mounting plate for the Pusher Fan is pushing the radiator back in closer to the fan too.
So yeah that pusher fan definitely needs to come out of there, it is causing 2 problems > Air Flow and Fan clearance issues.
☆☆☆☆☆
So yeah that pusher fan definitely needs to come out of there, it is causing 2 problems > Air Flow and Fan clearance issues.
☆☆☆☆☆
I know lots of guys run electric fans, but I just have no use for them. I've seen too many times where they fail. Motors burn up, relays burn up, fuses blow and lots of times they simply are not enough, because guys try to buy the cheapest one they can find. A dedicated race can can stand a small cheap one, because they don't run long at the time. A street car on the other hand, needs a very substantial electric fan. 100 bucks for an electric fan ain't gonna get it done. Now the guys that use the Ford Taurus fans are on to something. They actually work.
At a loss here... It was suggested to get the fan within 3/4 of an inch, it is now just that and now I'm being told it's too close and to either move the rad forward, or shorten the spacer. I do think it is a bit close myself. But if 3/4 is too close then why weren't there any objections before?
I'll be ordering another spacer today but what's the best size? Right now with a 2" spacer there's 3/4" between the fan blades and the rad. How much space should there be between the fan and blade?
It would be interesting to see the temp differences when moving the fan back a bit. Right now I know it runs hottest running a mechanical fan with no spacer and no pusher.
I'll be ordering another spacer today but what's the best size? Right now with a 2" spacer there's 3/4" between the fan blades and the rad. How much space should there be between the fan and blade?
It would be interesting to see the temp differences when moving the fan back a bit. Right now I know it runs hottest running a mechanical fan with no spacer and no pusher.
Ok, then leave it there. I don't wanna see any crying when the engine shifts and it tears into the radiator though, ok?
It's probably an optical illusion of the way the camera captured the picture. If it is 3/4" you are good.
Still thinking that pusher fan wide mount bracket between the Radiator and Core Support is unnessesarily pushing the radiator back closer to the mechanical fan. Take that out, then that gives the clearance you need.
You know the drill.....
* * * * *
Inertia
Well-Known Member
If you rev that engine and watch the fan blades, they will actually flex forward towards the rad, reducing the distance more with higher rpm .
The motor won't move much, as the rear mount is captured by the rear crossmember .
My son's clutch is about 1/4 inch from the rad, he's a very spirited driver, no interference in a decade.
The only interference I have experienced was a missed shift sucked the fan blades forward into the top of the bottom tank, split it wide open .
The motor won't move much, as the rear mount is captured by the rear crossmember .
My son's clutch is about 1/4 inch from the rad, he's a very spirited driver, no interference in a decade.
The only interference I have experienced was a missed shift sucked the fan blades forward into the top of the bottom tank, split it wide open .
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I use (and have used) a few Derale fans both fixed and clutch style. I go by what their instructions recommend for clearance. And it applies to any blade (flex fans excluded: wouldn’t use one if you paid me) made by anyone else. But, when you don’t have the room to put the blade at the ideal distance away from the radiator/shroud for whatever reason, you have to make sure everything else is up to snuff. No loose radiator or shroud mounts, clapped out motor/trans mounts, no fan blade with curled outwards blades, especially when needing to run it closer.
You have the room towards the engine. I’d find a spacer about 1/2” shorter if you in fact have 3/4” from blades and mounting bolts to the radiator.
I run a Hayden short clutch with a MP asymmetrical 5-blade. The clutch center fins are right at 1/2” away from the radiator, the blades are 1” away. My **** is tight. No issues with body flex or engine and trans moving forward. You got sloppy **** then best allow for that extra room as mentioned.
You have the room towards the engine. I’d find a spacer about 1/2” shorter if you in fact have 3/4” from blades and mounting bolts to the radiator.
I run a Hayden short clutch with a MP asymmetrical 5-blade. The clutch center fins are right at 1/2” away from the radiator, the blades are 1” away. My **** is tight. No issues with body flex or engine and trans moving forward. You got sloppy **** then best allow for that extra room as mentioned.
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I can slide a piece of paper between the efan "bracket" and the rad, top to bottom, however at the top of the rad the fan is a bit more than 3/4" at the bottom of the rad it squeezes down to 1/2" clearance....
Bezos and co have 1.5" spacer, used, for 10 bucks so I ordered it right after taking that bottom measurement. Should be here tomorrow and I know I have plenty of 5/16 course bolts that are less than 2" so I should be able to get it on by Sunday evening
Bezos and co have 1.5" spacer, used, for 10 bucks so I ordered it right after taking that bottom measurement. Should be here tomorrow and I know I have plenty of 5/16 course bolts that are less than 2" so I should be able to get it on by Sunday evening
Found this floating at the top of the rad when I was opening it up to drain for removal later today.
Pretty sure random chunks of RTV shouldn't be in there ;) Let alone it's not the blue stuff.
The water pump will be coming off as well today and replaced with a new one to make sure there aren't any random chunks of stuff hiding behind the impeller which may cause problems later.
Pretty sure random chunks of RTV shouldn't be in there ;) Let alone it's not the blue stuff.
The water pump will be coming off as well today and replaced with a new one to make sure there aren't any random chunks of stuff hiding behind the impeller which may cause problems later.
lots more little bits of stuff coming out of the rad when I drained it, so its off to the shop to get properly flushed/cleaned, hopefully it will be back for the weekend and I can get this problem solved
gonna try to flush the block in the next couple of days in case there are any random bits in there as well
gonna try to flush the block in the next couple of days in case there are any random bits in there as well
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Just out of curiosity,
Do you have a seal on the bottom of the hood that seals against the radiator support? I have found that when idling with the hood open there's no issue and the engine will run at a reasonable 180-190° BUT if that seal isn't present what happens is heat from under the hood escapes from under the hood lip and it gets sucked back through the radiator and gets heated up and then escapes from under the hood lip again and.....well you get the picture. I have a fiberglass hood so I didn't have the seal. I wound up buying foam rubber from Home Depot and I glued it to the bottom of the hood so it sealed to the rad support. Huge difference. You can try a zero dollar test and put a couple of bath towels in-between the hood and the rad support. Just a suggestion, good luck!
You crap in the rad comes from the engine. You can flush it until the end of time & still not get rid of all the debris. The way to fix the problem is to fit a filter to the top hose which catches the debris before it blocks the rad tubes. See below.
A lot of the bits are orange, pretty sure that's RTV in there as well, and yes a filter is a good idea, got one coming today. Thanks!
There's even orange RTV being used to seal the exhaust at the collector, maybe it was red at one time and faded over the years.
I have a fibreglass hood as well with a big 3 or 4 inch scoop, so it couldn't hurt to try this. Thanks!
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Your very welcome. Zero dollars to try the towel thing. Also it doesn't matter if you have a fiberglass or steel hood, if that seal is missing it's going to make your car run hotter. There's a reason that Ma Mopar put them there. Trust me if it wasn't needed they wouldn't have spent the money to put it there. Hope this helps.
Definitely. Thanks!
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