46re

-
Jadaharabi said:
I guess that means you don't need any input for me so I'm out of here.
Click to expand...
Ummm ok?I never meant that lol.Just wanted some fine details,switches used,voltages needed etc.No need for you to leave sir...
 
From what I’ve read there is no way to make an RE trans manual with a valve body change. You basically have to convert it to an RH so you might as well just use an RH which is easy to control via Hobbs switches. @RammerJammer75 i tried to work with megasquirt to control my RE and had the same experience you apparently had. Currently on my 5.9TT I am piggy backing megasquirt on top of the jtech ecu and the ONLY reason is because I had a bad *** 46RE trans built and didn’t want to give it up, and had no way to control it. I may try the e-trans controller at some point when I get back to working on that car. Hell I’ve spent way more than what that thing costs on making everything else work.
 
I have an A518 non lock up from a 90 3/4 ton 2wd. I think it’s a great candidate for a swap as it only has a 3 wire plug and would only need a switch for od. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
I have an A518 non lock up from a 90 3/4 ton 2wd. I think it’s a great candidate for a swap as it only has a 3 wire plug and would only need a switch for od. Kim
Click to expand...

Sent you a pm Kimmer.
 
Like I had said earlier, I went with manual valvebody and then wired in two switches for the lockup and OD. I can't remember where I found the info, it was a long time ago but I'm thinking it was on a diesel site because they were doing the same thing with the 48RE transmissions.
 
Wilma said:
Like I had said earlier, I went with manual valvebody and then wired in two switches for the lockup and OD. I can't remember where I found the info, it was a long time ago but I'm thinking it was on a diesel site because they were doing the same thing with the 48RE transmissions.
Click to expand...

Allright.It sort of makes sense to me,as a computer is nothing more than miniaturised transistors ,or switches which are either on or off.Just would really appreciate the blood and guts info on how you did this.What switches being used,voltages.Where you tapped in for power.Fused circuits?Which manual valve body and where did you get it?I'm interested for sure.More questions than answers right now.Even if I get all that sorted out,still need to find a 2WD output shaft and housing.
 
Canadians be crazy on their pricing. $1000 for a used a518?Smh...
 
It does appear that you can install a full manual standard pattern valve body on a 46re and electronically control the od and lockup through grounding switches. The switch provides the solenoid ground for both functions. Downside is you loose all automatic shifting. There is no way to get automatic shifting with the 46re aside from what we’ve discussed earlier in the thread.
 
TT5.9mag said:
It does appear that you can install a full manual standard pattern valve body on a 46re and electronically control the od and lockup through grounding switches. The switch provides the solenoid ground for both functions. Downside is you loose all automatic shifting. There is no way to get automatic shifting with the 46re aside from what we’ve discussed earlier in the thread.
Click to expand...
Yes this is the conclusion I've drawn as well. The 2wd output shaft and housing don't appear to be very expensive either. Manual shifting an auto is no big deal as long as you chose a shifter that' doesn't turn it into a chore.So this 46re a few blocks away is looking pretty shiny right now.I'll still make him a low offer and give it a real good inspection.It is damaged after all...
 
@needsaresto i would look at the pick a part yards near you. I pulled mine myself and it was like $200 if I remember. I did just need a core though because I knew I was going to have it built. But I’m sure you could get a decent idea of its condition by dropping the pan.
 
TT5.9mag said:
@needsaresto i would look at the pick a part yards near you. I pulled mine myself and it was like $200 if I remember. I did just need a core though because I knew I was going to have it built. But I’m sure you could get a decent idea of its condition by dropping the pan.
Click to expand...
There's one here just a few blocks away.I already know the low band snapped and took out the valve body.As long as the rest of it looks ok I' might as well buy it if he's willing to let it go cheap.A 2wd housing is about $100,shaft is $65. Then I need to get the rest lol. But I'll then have a viable o/d trans!
 
I'm getting excited by this purchase! Got my trunk floor extensions this week as well,last pieces needed to weld up the back half of my rust bucket.It feesl really good to be moving on this project again.
 
67Dart273 said:
That is likely the very kit I was thinking of when I posted. I bought one have not (yet) used it. Unless I misread their website it truly will manually shift an RE
Click to expand...
Hmm ok.But I need an undamaged valve body as well. Might be easier to just get a ready to go valve body.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That was going to be my recommendation.
Click to expand...
Understood.Just going with what's local.Oldkimmer has a a518,but he builds race trans for a living so anything from him is currently out of my budget. And I'm pretty handy myself,can build a trans and get some savings.Looking elsewhere I did find an a518 but $1000 for a trans that will need a rebuild?Naaahh. This 46re is right on my doorstep,literally a few blocks away.If I can't get it super cheap,like no more than $150,I'll walk away.It's damaged after all.You guys have no idea how hard it is to come by mopar stuff in this area.Counting myself blessed to find what I did so close.
 
needsaresto said:
Understood.Just going with what's local.Oldkimmer has a a518,but he builds race trans for a living so anything from him is currently out of my budget. And I'm pretty handy myself,can build a trans and get some savings.Looking elsewhere I did find an a518 but $1000 for a trans that will need a rebuild?Naaahh. This 46re is right on my doorstep,literally a few blocks away.If I can't get it super cheap,like no more than $150,I'll walk away.It's damaged after all.You guys have no idea how hard it is to come by mopar stuff in this area.Counting myself blessed to find what I did so close.
Click to expand...

Well, If you want a modern, Mopar overdrive automatic, you're gonna have to step on it somewhere. They aren't a 904 or 727. They are complex overdrive units and they aren't cheap. Look at a quality kit. They aren't cheap. Then, you're gonna want "some" kind of upgrades, shift, maybe more clutches, maybe a bolt in sprag......Geez Paul, you can't do this stuff for free. Even as cheaply as I build my stuff, which is real dirt road stuff, at some point, I do have to spend a little on something. In my case of course, it won't be on an overdrive transmission, but there are other things I do have to step up on. Do you think a $3,000 transmission will just fall out of the sky? That's about what they cost now to be pulled and put back in.....and that's Georgia prices, you're in Canada. Maybe you should simply run a 727? They're cheap, easy top build and very reliable. You don't have to figure out how to make them shift with switches and solenoids and computers. My guess is you might could find someone up there that would GIVE you a core. Plus, at the end of the day, it's a bolt in swap.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well, If you want a modern, Mopar overdrive automatic, you're gonna have to step on it somewhere. They aren't a 904 or 727. They are complex overdrive units and they aren't cheap. Look at a quality kit. They aren't cheap. Then, you're gonna want "some" kind of upgrades, shift, maybe more clutches, maybe a bolt in sprag......Geez Paul, you can't do this stuff for free. Even as cheaply as I build my stuff, which is real dirt road stuff, at some point, I do have to spend a little on something. In my case of course, it won't be on an overdrive transmission, but there are other things I do have to step up on. Do you think a $3,000 transmission will just fall out of the sky? That's about what they cost now to be pulled and put back in.....and that's Georgia prices, you're in Canada. Maybe you should simply run a 727? They're cheap, easy top build and very reliable. You don't have to figure out how to make them shift with switches and solenoids and computers. My guess is you might could find someone up there that would GIVE you a core. Plus, at the end of the day, it's a bolt in swap.
Click to expand...

Hmm well a modern od practically did fall out of the sky,and pretty much right next door.Like I said,if he lets me have it cheap I'll build it myself and at least there's some savings in that.This entire thread has been about whether or not it was a doable option.Seems like it is.If it's not too heavily damaged and cheap why not buy it?
I do have a 727 bb trans Rob.I just prefer an o/d.It won't rattle my brains out at highway speeds.My intended focus for the car has changed;I really want something more driveable.Maybe even a/c.There's absolutely no point in a gv unit for my 727,they are easily the cost of building an entire od trans.
 
needsaresto said:
Hmm well a modern od practically did fall out of the sky,and pretty much right next door.Like I said,if he lets me have it cheap I'll build it myself and at least there's some savings in that.This entire thread has been about whether or not it was a doable option.Seems like it is.If it's not too heavily damaged and cheap why not buy it?
I do have a 727 bb trans Rob.I just prefer an o/d.It won't rattle my brains out at highway speeds.My intended focus for the car has changed;I really want something more driveable.Maybe even a/c.There's absolutely no point in a gv unit for my 727,they are easily the cost of building an entire od trans.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but it's a 4x4 transmission, right? Just a lot of trouble to convert it, then have to buy all the parts and build it. Do you have Tom Hand's Torqueflite book? Even though it's not a three speed, that book will help you a lot if you decide to build it yourself.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah, but it's a 4x4 transmission, right? Just a lot of trouble to convert it, then have to buy all the parts and build it. Do you have Tom Hand's Torqueflite book? Even though it's not a three speed, that book will help you a lot if you decide to build it yourself.
Click to expand...

Yup I have that book.It's here somewhere lol.You're not wrong,that's a good book.Parts are almost inconsequential to make the swap.$99 for the housing and $60 for the shaft.
 
needsaresto said:
Yup I have that book.It's here somewhere lol.You're not wrong,that's a good book.Parts are almost inconsequential to make the swap.$99 for the housing and $60 for the shaft.
Click to expand...

Well I hope you're able to get it done. You certainly have the attitude. Good luck with it buddy.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well I hope you're able to get it done. You certainly have the attitude. Good luck with it buddy.
Click to expand...

Thank you sir!! Your support is invaluable.

I'd actually like to thank everyone who has followed this thread and persevered with me.It's been a long time.I've been to hell and back.Things gonna change now
 
Last edited:
TT5.9mag said:
@needsaresto i would look at the pick a part yards near you. I pulled mine myself and it was like $200 if I remember. I did just need a core though because I knew I was going to have it built. But I’m sure you could get a decent idea of its condition by dropping the pan.
Click to expand...

I did the same, and got my 42RH out of a 2 wheel drive Dakota that was front end crashed.
Dropped the pan and it was super clean with bright red fluid.
One thing I see (or don’t see actually)
is no one ever mentioned needing to swap the cooler lines out for 3/8 since all the old TF 3 speeds had 5/16 lines.
I used 3/8 tubing with a non scuff coating called “Gator something”.
It is actually Semi truck air brake tubing.
Then NPT to 3/8 compression unions in the case and cooler.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top