caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
how do you bolt a 4speed to a magnum 318? are the flywheels the same? will a hydraulic throw out bearing fit? going in a 66 barracuda no E.F.I no computer just a 4 barrel carb & distributor
5.2 magnum & A833
- Thread starter caferacerx
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Throwout bearing with same inside diameter as 833 bearing retainer collar and bearing face to match type of pressure plate used.
All 318s share same mounting face for bellhousing, so just use an LA 833 bell (some three speed bellhousings work also) that matches your bearing retainer diameter.
Your stock 66 throwout arm and linkage will work.
All 318s share same mounting face for bellhousing, so just use an LA 833 bell (some three speed bellhousings work also) that matches your bearing retainer diameter.
Your stock 66 throwout arm and linkage will work.
You may have to shorten the input shaft of the trans. Be careful bolting up the trans if the input shaft bottoms out in the crank the gap between the bellhousing and trans will not close.
Apparently the hole in the crankshaft is not as deep with the Magnums as the LA series. We have done this a couple times using an angle grinder with a cutoff blade and it always turned out fine. It is probably only a quarter inch or so than needs to come off.
Apparently the hole in the crankshaft is not as deep with the Magnums as the LA series. We have done this a couple times using an angle grinder with a cutoff blade and it always turned out fine. It is probably only a quarter inch or so than needs to come off.
caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
will an L.A. flywheel bolt to a magnum?
Every flywheel manufacturer shows a listing for a 130 tooth 10.5" neutral balance flywheel to be used in all LA, Magnum, and B(RB) blocks with internal balance six bolt cranks.
Expanding on what CUDA69 says, not all cranks are drilled for a pilot bearing. Same are drilled, finish honed, and may even have a pilot bearing or bushing installed, some are only rough drilled, and some not at all.
It's up to you to figure out what you are dealing with, decide if you need a pilot bearing with a collar to fit into the torque converter crank register, and how much, if any, you need to trim the transmission input shaft to keep it from hitting the back of the crankshaft.
Expanding on what CUDA69 says, not all cranks are drilled for a pilot bearing. Same are drilled, finish honed, and may even have a pilot bearing or bushing installed, some are only rough drilled, and some not at all.
It's up to you to figure out what you are dealing with, decide if you need a pilot bearing with a collar to fit into the torque converter crank register, and how much, if any, you need to trim the transmission input shaft to keep it from hitting the back of the crankshaft.
caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
so once the pilot baring issues are resolved I should be able to bolt my early bell housing and flywheel (9.5") up to the 5.2 magnum? or do I have to convert to 10.5"? and use an adapter flywheel
273 flywheel, bellhousing, and starter should (notice I didn't say would, you gotta try it) bolt up. But if you're wanting to do it to run the same size clutch a slant six can overpower because a larger clutch won't bolt up to those components, I don't know why you would want to.
caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
same clutch as a 273 commando right? but I think your right a 10.5" set up would be a nice upgrade and only require a minor mod to the z-bar, as soon as I can get the magnum out of the van I will start mocking things up, until then I am just trying to figure out what I need and what will work, car is just a basic driver 0 track time
Why would you need to modify any of your clutch linkage to run a 10.5" clutch? If the larger clutch requires a later bellhousing, comparing the bellhousing fulcrum (pivot) to input shaft centerline distance will tell you if your current arm will work. Even if your original didn't, using an arm with the same ratios from the pivot point to the bearing points at the respective ends would allow your stock torque shaft to be used. All of this assumes whatever clutch/throwout bearing you do end up running, maintains the same distance from the throwout arm to flywheel surface as your current one. If you do need to use a later bellhousing, and you are keeping the original linkage, I would make sure the engine mounted ball stud for the torque shaft was in the same place, though.
caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
I am seriously considering using a hydraulic throwout bearing
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
i believe mc cloud has a 9 inch hi po clutch,,,call brewers i think the 9 inch cluthc forks are a little different then a 10.5 clutch fork, i may be wrong,,its been a while,,,
as for a hyd bearing,,mc cloud has that also,,been awake a lot of hours im sure my spelling of mc cloud is wrong,,
or you can use your factory fork and factory style thro out bearing,,and use a hyd slave cylinder to move the fork,,i went from a tilton hyd bearing to the slave cylinder anfd orignal style throw outr bearing,,,works great,
as for a hyd bearing,,mc cloud has that also,,been awake a lot of hours im sure my spelling of mc cloud is wrong,,
or you can use your factory fork and factory style thro out bearing,,and use a hyd slave cylinder to move the fork,,i went from a tilton hyd bearing to the slave cylinder anfd orignal style throw outr bearing,,,works great,
caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
anything to make the clutch easier I shattered my ankle in a motorcycle accident many years ago so getting stuck in traffic with a heavy clutch could be a problem
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
then i would go with a center force dual friction clutch,,,use the factory fork and center force mopar style throw out bearing,,and a wilwood clutch master cylinder and a puller type slave cylinder,,you can get all the parts from speed way motors,,they have a slave from CNC or you can get a wilwood slave,, its simple to do uying all the parts your self,,i can priovide you pics of every thing you need to do,,,or there is a place called charlies classic mopars,, i believe is the name he has the hole package in a kit with instructions,,,but will cost you double,,,it wil be easy on the leg,,,and no fire wall flexing,,,here are a few pics
caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
hoping to use a simpler hydraulic throw out bearing as found in some newer vehicles
If your car was/is a stick shift car and has the original clutch linkage, choosing a diaphragm clutch and matching throwout bearing may be all you need to do to make it comfortable to drive. A diaphragm style clutch requires far less pedal pressure than the Borg & Beck three finger type Mopar used, to the point of needing to remove the over center assist spring in most instances to assure clutch reengagement/pedal return. Plate departure is far less critical, too.
Although converting to a hydraulic actuated clutch could be your answer, using what you have might be all you need to do.
Did you figure out if the '65 bellhousing accommodates a 10.5" flywheel/clutch, or if you're locked into the smaller diameter clutch if you stay with it?
Although converting to a hydraulic actuated clutch could be your answer, using what you have might be all you need to do.
Did you figure out if the '65 bellhousing accommodates a 10.5" flywheel/clutch, or if you're locked into the smaller diameter clutch if you stay with it?
caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
car is a 904 auto I thought I could live with it, but I have always loved 4speed's to that end I am now collecting parts to convert it, have a 1974 standard a body trans,tail section and shifter, plan is to mate it to a 5.2 magnum (its got a 1973 low compression motor home 318 in it now)
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
WELL find a 1967 or newer bell housing,,unless you would perfer a scatter shield,,, 1967 and newer will except a 10.5 fly wheel and clutch,,go wit hthe center force dual friction complete kit,,its a diapgram,,works well,,the hyd set up, is your choice,,
caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
o.k. thanks I was trying to find out when they switched over to 10.5 that helps a lot
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
im not sure if the 1967 68 69 273 cars still used the 9 inch clutch,,,so make sure you get it from a 318 truck,,or 340 car or a 360 car,,,all tho the 360 LA fly wheel will be differnt then a 360 magnum fly wheel,,, the 318/340/383/440 uses a internal balanced or nutrul fly wheel, the 360 are all different depending what 360 you use,,the 400 fly wheel is special to 400 only also,,,
dano
Evil Handy Man
I'd like to see a list and pics, I'd love to get rind of the z bar! Thanks
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
scrolll up i posted pics of the slave cylinder and its mounting ,,,,
dano
Evil Handy Man
What of the master cylinder?
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
thers a few options you can do for the master,,,keislier has one that mounts to the lower firs wall,,very nice looking unit,, made by wilwod or mc leod,, i cant remember which,,,it mounts where the clutch rod goes thru the fire wall,, i may switch to that,,,
or you can get a master from how ever,,,and it will mount right next to your brake master cylinder,, on my car the corect position was right where the speedo cable went thur,, so i had to open up that hole then make a plate to stiffen the fire wall
the easiest way is the keislier unit,, or if you can get your hands on a dakota pedal set up the master hooks righ to the pedal assembly,,, ill post a few pics of my master on the fire wall and under the dash
or you can get a master from how ever,,,and it will mount right next to your brake master cylinder,, on my car the corect position was right where the speedo cable went thur,, so i had to open up that hole then make a plate to stiffen the fire wall
the easiest way is the keislier unit,, or if you can get your hands on a dakota pedal set up the master hooks righ to the pedal assembly,,, ill post a few pics of my master on the fire wall and under the dash
dano
Evil Handy Man
Awsome! Thank you.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
the mounting of the master cylinder push rod is very important,,if ite not in the correct position you wont get full travel of the master cylinder,,making less stroke,,not pushing enough fluid to move the fork,,, if you need il measure it,, but if my memory is corect it is 2 inches down from the pivot of the pedal,,,just like a brake pivot point
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