5.9 Magnum into a 73Duster

-
Got the fuel tank drop for the new sending unit. We put the Duster on hold for a little bit due to my new/used 85 Ramcharger 4x4 with a 360 off of Craigs-List.
It will be nice to have a 4x4 for this time of year.

Picture 006.jpg


Picture 007.jpg
 
updates? I'm almost there putting the 5.9/904 combo in mine. Looking forward to hearing more tricks!
 
Sorry, not much to the duster.But did get the sending unit into the tank. We had to overhaul the rear diff in the Ramcharger.Now that I have an extra 9.25 laying on the ground almost makes me want to cut it down for the duster, I havn't looked into the cost of axles.May be with the weather warming up again we can work on the duster, I would really like to hear it run....heres a pic of the diff. new bearings and Trac-Lok

Good news that yours is getting closer.

Picture 007.jpg
 
Geezzer, when you did your flexplate and TQ, did you do anything to make sure of the balancing, or did you just file whichever hole you wanted?
 
Thanks for all your help guys. The engine is out of an auto 4x4 durango. At this point were not sure about staying with OEM computer. May go to one that is user programible. Never thought of one out of a stick. Staying with the serpintine belt for the lighter AC compressor ETC.

My trans for now is 904, but looking for a 727, but not set into stone. MMMm may have to start looking for a 518
I really don't what a carb on this combo. Want a little old school with a twist.

thanks Again, Paul

You really need the complete harness from the durango. Don't need the ECM pinout as much as a detailed schematic for the Durango AND the DART. Its going to be hard to get it to work right with the 904 tranny even if you go with the Standard shift ECM since it also looks for clutch engagement and other things. Plus, since the ECM is from a 4X4 its likely to give you fits even if you go with a 2 wheel drive 500 or 518. Get an ECM from a Dakota 2 wheel drive with the same engine, that will work. Major surgery to the cross member and floor if you do use the 500 or 518. Plan on a shifter with a rear entry cable also since there is no room for one to go forward like most shifters. It gets too close to the headers and melts! Here are some pics of what I had to do in order to get one into my Dart.

Larry
 
Geezzer, when you did your flexplate and TQ, did you do anything to make sure of the balancing, or did you just file whichever hole you wanted?

I ground off the oem balance off my old torque converter. Since I'm running the efi flex plate that is balanced for the magnum engine.(its already balanced) I put the magnum weight over the old weight 360LA area, only had to file one hole that way. If your not running EFI I thought there was a flex plate for the magnum to the LA converters.
 
You really need the complete harness from the durango. Don't need the ECM pinout as much as a detailed schematic for the Durango AND the DART. Its going to be hard to get it to work right with the 904 tranny even if you go with the Standard shift ECM since it also looks for clutch engagement and other things. Plus, since the ECM is from a 4X4 its likely to give you fits even if you go with a 2 wheel drive 500 or 518. Get an ECM from a Dakota 2 wheel drive with the same engine, that will work. Major surgery to the cross member and floor if you do use the 500 or 518. Plan on a shifter with a rear entry cable also since there is no room for one to go forward like most shifters. It gets too close to the headers and melts! Here are some pics of what I had to do in order to get one into my Dart.

Larry

Thanks for the info.I haven't had time for working on the duster,have a lot of spring time work around the house after winter.Will look for your PM. OG
 
i'm just starting to build a 5.9 stroker motor. curious as to if you kept stock cast mag heads or went with alum?
 
i'm just starting to build a 5.9 stroker motor. curious as to if you kept stock cast mag heads or went with alum?

The iron heads are just fine, even better in some cases. Notice I said 'iron,' NOT stock. With a stock head, you'll have to put in hardened valve seats to protect against cracking. But the RHS or EQ heads are pretty dang good (especially for the price), and flow at least as much as the Edelbrock alum heads.

Geezzer, I am running the stock flexplate because it's balancing up to a 318 904 torque converter. I am balancing the dampner with the flexplate, and leaving the TQ unbalanced. So it doesn't matter which hole in the stock flexplate you file?
 
The iron heads are just fine, even better in some cases. Notice I said 'iron,' NOT stock. With a stock head, you'll have to put in hardened valve seats to protect against cracking. But the RHS or EQ heads are pretty dang good (especially for the price), and flow at least as much as the Edelbrock alum heads.

Geezzer, I am running the stock flexplate because it's balancing up to a 318 904 torque converter. I am balancing the dampner with the flexplate, and leaving the TQ unbalanced. So it doesn't matter which hole in the stock flexplate you file?

For now running stock heads until rebuild.Sorry for the delay in answering, been getting the my amateur radio repeaters back on the air.

On the flex plate,I just picked one hole and filed away.
 
I did this to a '68 Dart 2 door sedan back in '05, with a '94 ECU and a 360.
It was done with a 4 speed and hydraulic clutch.

Didn't get it QUITE all finished, but it ran and drove.

Offered to do modified harnesses (pre AND post 1996) for this, but no interest was expressed and I dropped it.

I will say this, use the stock fuel pump from the '99 and hang it from the inlet fuel line, then drill a small hole in the sending unit for the power wire (red wire) to pass through and seal it with Quick Steel. Ground the pump using the fuel inlet line and a clamp, then properly ground the sender on the outside.

MANIFOLDS: The passenger's side Magnum manifold will fit a '67-'76 A body, but the driver's won't fit w/power steering, as the box is too bulky, even tried a Jeep Magnum manifold and no dice without a LOT of grinding.

I ended up with a pair of the earlier, '67-'73 style, 318 A body manifolds and modified the passenger's manifold for the '94 Magnum's EGR tube.

The key to the wiring is the switched power side of the alternator, which is a blue wire, runs the power for the whole system. That wire is also tied into the hot side of the injectors, which is a green wire with an orange stripe and also ties in with the PCM switched power, which is a crimson colored wire.
The "Check Engine Light" is a black wire with a fuchsia pink (really!) stripe.

In truth, I threw away nearly all the wiring, from the bulkhead connector into the dash harness, because It's worthless.
In the end I used the stock gauges, their original wiring and sensors and whittled the engine/PCM wiring down to engine management, though using the PCM's voltage regulation circuit is a wise move, but it too can be bypassed.

Quoting the Terminator: "...I Have Detailed Files..."

Mark.
 
The iron heads are just fine, even better in some cases. Notice I said 'iron,' NOT stock. With a stock head, you'll have to put in hardened valve seats to protect against cracking. But the RHS or EQ heads are pretty dang good (especially for the price), and flow at least as much as the Edelbrock alum heads.

I'd not worry too much about the head cracking issue, I see a lot of people mention it but as a retired dealer tech from Mopar we never saw it at the shop I worked at and my own Ram has 145k on the clock.
 
MANIFOLDS: The passenger's side Magnum manifold will fit a '67-'76 A body, but the driver's won't fit w/power steering, as the box is too bulky, even tried a Jeep Magnum manifold and no dice without a LOT of grinding.

Question- Where did the unit hit?

I have a '74 Duster and it looks like it may fit with the current spool k-frame and low mounted p/s pump. The steering column shifter linkage looks dicey though.
 
I'm thinking of putting in a 360 too. What is the real mpg are you getting? THANKS! Tom
 
If you are looking at the V-8 Magnum for excellent mileage, forget it, the very best I have seen is @ 18, not surprisingly, it was a non-over drive automatic 318 in a '92 Dakota, 3.21 gears, with a hollow cat.
Overdrive, even manual, really seems to affect the mileage on them.

A TBI or carb does better, mileage wise.

Mark.
 
If you are looking at the V-8 Magnum for excellent mileage, forget it, the very best I have seen is @ 18, not surprisingly, it was a non-over drive automatic 318 in a '92 Dakota, 3.21 gears, with a hollow cat.
Overdrive, even manual, really seems to affect the mileage on them.

A TBI or carb does better, mileage wise.

Mark.


I routinely get 18 out of my 1997 Ram. 5.2 5 speed, club cab, short bed, 2wd. 3.55 gears. Tonneau cover Lower 20's is possible if driven conservatively.

I have headers, Magnaflow converter (stock configuration) and Magnaflow exhaust. Parts store tune up stuff, with Taylor wires.

My MPG is directly tied to MPH. Anything between 58 and 64 gets best MPG. Under 58 in OD is too low RPM and engine lugs. Mileage drops over 65, purely because of RPM. The OD in the 5 speed must not be very deep.
 
If you are looking at the V-8 Magnum for excellent mileage, forget it, the very best I have seen is @ 18, not surprisingly, it was a non-over drive automatic 318 in a '92 Dakota, 3.21 gears, with a hollow cat.
Overdrive, even manual, really seems to affect the mileage on them.

A TBI or carb does better, mileage wise.

Mark.

Nah, I'm just looking for the most bang for the buck in a 5.2 package.

Going to run a 5.2 magnum shortblock with 340 windage tray, factory roller cam with 1.7 roller rockers with a set of Enginequest heads that are drilled for LA intake with a Performer RPM intake.
 
A quick update, Not much done to the Duster.( it does make a nice storage shelf in the garage though) Been back attacking the wiring system with the stock ECU and made up my mind to go with the Megasquirt system. Thinking at in the long run I'll be better off. As soon as I make up my mind of kit form or already assembled. Hate to do things twice. Still stripping out my part cars to make more room for others. LOL
 
off topic, but is that front bumper stock? My 73 duster has a pointy bumper =(

Far as I know it is. Just pulled off the black bumper pusher blocks (guess what ya call them). IF you would like I'll take a pic from the top looking down.
I also have a 73 dart Sport bumper thats pointy. Is yours like this?

car 006.jpg
 
Well I just ordered my Megasquirt 2 and relay board from DIYautotune today. I'll get them assembled and tested, then we'll start installing them. I would really like to fire the Magnum up this year. Got more :read2: to do.
 
cant wait to hear about the mega squirt,,,, i sorta talk to a street rodder when i see him they have a 5.9 in a 40 plymouth using the mega squirt deall,,i guess its a board you assemble,,then need a lap top to program,
 
cant wait to hear about the mega squirt,,,, i sorta talk to a street rodder when i see him they have a 5.9 in a 40 plymouth using the mega squirt deall,,i guess its a board you assemble,,then need a lap top to program,

YEP. Been looking at the others on the market, WAY over priced. It will be strange to build since it doesn't say Motorola on the outside. :toothy10:
 
-
Back
Top