black954
Well-Known Member
Thank you, I just read the whole post, very good information. I will be doing similar to what you did, weld up the opening and then machine it square followed by blending the transition to the runners.
5.9L Magnum build with questions
- Thread starter black954
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black954
Well-Known Member
The beginning of the square bore transformation lol
black954
Well-Known Member
I finished welding up the manifold today. I’ll post pics once the machining is done and it’s transformed to a square bore intake LOL. I also ordered my intake gaskets so I can port match them when they show up.
black954
Well-Known Member
I spent some time today with my mill. Tomorrow I’ll clean up the corners and radius the transition into the runners with a burr and flapper wheel.
black954
Well-Known Member
Maybe I miss read , I thought you were looking to use stock magnums or EQ's. Cams only allow a percentage of air flow of what your heads are able to flow, same cam with different heads can very the powerband greatly. To make peak power above 6000 rpm you would something like W2 or similar.
black954
Well-Known Member
I’m using IMM’s aluminum heads, 64cc 2.02/1.60 and they are decked, mild porting, and adjustable shaft roller rockers. This with forged Icon 10.2 pistons and a custom grind Comp roller .571/.574 lift and 233/237 duration @.050 with a 109LSA. I’m running a Holley Sniper EFI system and custom long tube 1 3/4” headers
black954
Well-Known Member
The best I could blend the runners. Next I’ll tap the rear coolant ports to run -8 bypass hoses to the front coolant crossover.
black954
Well-Known Member
Well, after talking to IMM I’m going to have my cam degreed. I’ve never done it to the engines I’ve assembled in the past, but it’s for the best and I’m going to have it done to this engine. So, tomorrow I’ll take it back to the machine shop so they can do it. It’s cheaper for them to do it then it is for me to buy the tools and I doubt I’ll do it in the future. Plus some things are best left to the professionals. So I made a stand out of left over Uni strut so I don’t crush the oil pan transporting it.
I also scored a great deal on some Dougs headers today. I’ll sand blast them and paint them with tungsten Cerakote. I’m guessing it will hold up much better than whatever Dougs uses.
I also scored a great deal on some Dougs headers today. I’ll sand blast them and paint them with tungsten Cerakote. I’m guessing it will hold up much better than whatever Dougs uses.
black954
Well-Known Member
3” stainless V-bands installed last night
black954
Well-Known Member
Some progress on the Magnum. I took the short block to Opel Engineering to have the Cam degreed in. Unfortunately the MOPAR Performance 3 way adjustable timing set wouldn’t allow enough adjustment, so I ordered a Progear timing set and they were able to get it dialed within 1/2*. So I was able to pick it up and assemble more of the engine. I verified TDC and got the heads on and torqued. Next I’ll measure for pushrods so I can finish this up.
black954
Well-Known Member
I finished up the intake. The last thing to do was make the -8AN coolant lines and then port match the runners. The Speedmaster head ports were nearly perfect so I didn’t touch them.
black954
Well-Known Member
The V-band provides a 360* seal all the way around. Also, there is a machined lip on one side that fits into a machined grove on the opposite side that centers the v-bands so they are aligned perfectly. Pretty much the best way to connect exhaust flanges. The downside is one 3" clamp is about $50, so it gets expensive.
black954
Well-Known Member
Lol exactly.
Semi tractors have had them for a long time to ease working on them.
Dustert73
Stripping bolts since ‘10
Aircraft manufactures use them a lot too, along with wiggins clamps.
motorpirate
serial mopar owner
What is the purpose of the coolant lines?
black954
Well-Known Member
They are supposed to circulate the coolant from the back of the heads so it doesn’t deadhead at the back of the heads. It’s an effort to promote better cooling in an endurance application. This isn’t a drag racing engine rather a road race type build that will see 20 minute track sessions. There’s a lot of different opinions on them, but I always wanted to try them.
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turboking15
Well-Known Member
I have them on all my small blocks. anything to promote better or more even cooling is a good thing in my book. On my turbo motor i machined my own freeze plugs and welded an fittings to them with an elbow on the back side pointing directly at the middle 2 exhaust ports. they are fed from the side of the cooling passages in the timing cover. Hoping to get some cool fresh coolant to that area as its the first to get hot.
More intake coolant line pictures please.
black954
Well-Known Member
It’s pretty simple. Just drill 9/16” holes where you want them and tap the hole with a 3/8”NPT tap. Take your time so you don’t go too deep and bottom out the fitting. Install 3/8”NPT male to -8AN male adapters. Then just make up some -8AN lines and connect them. I was thinking of running the lines under the runners, but I decided against it. I think it will add radiant heat directly under the runners and that’s creating another problem
turboking15
Well-Known Member
heres the setup i did for my dakota with the smaller magnum style t-stat housing
Rear intake coolant bypass
heres the intake for my turbo motor
87 conquest 5.9 magnum s475
black954
Well-Known Member
I was able to measure for pushrods and luckily the speed shop near me had them in stock. So I picked them up and finished assembling the engine.
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