5 quick operation and Maintenance Qs

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Just for fun, I got another $4.00 thermostat and drilled a hole in it and popped it in, hoping some of the coolant would bypass anyway. Well... The gauge inside still reads 190ish.

...But the head near the sender unit reads 140-145 on the thermometer gun.

Before it read 170 and the gauge said 190.

I'm thinking the ground is way off, but I just added a huge ground strap to the gauge. Still the same. The thing is though - it starts at 100 in the morning, then gradually warms up to 180, then 195, then 210 on the freeway, it's not like it reads 195 by default so what's happening here?
 
Timing seems to be a non issue at this point. Still seems lean. Did you ever put vacuum to the vacuum advance with a hand vacuum pump to see if it holds. Should not leak down at all. I know you checked but worth one more good look over for ANY vacuum leaking. Including the choke pull off diaphragm.

Then you will need to dive into the carb for more fuel. Thorough cleaning of the jets- look real close inside too make sure there is no gunk or oxidation hanging around.

Another thing to investigate while looking under the hood is if the air is actually flowing through the radiator or is there an obvious path for the air to flow around. maybe put a light under the hood at night and look in the front with the hood closed. I also looked at my fan and realized I am running a steel flex fan, not the original solid fan. Something to look at I guess.
 
Voeltagear said:
Timing seems to be a non issue at this point. Still seems lean. Did you ever put vacuum to the vacuum advance with a hand vacuum pump to see if it holds. Should not leak down at all. I know you checked but worth one more good look over for ANY vacuum leaking. Including the choke pull off diaphragm.

Then you will need to dive into the carb for more fuel. Thorough cleaning of the jets- look real close inside too make sure there is no gunk or oxidation hanging around.

Another thing to investigate while looking under the hood is if the air is actually flowing through the radiator or is there an obvious path for the air to flow around. maybe put a light under the hood at night and look in the front with the hood closed. I also looked at my fan and realized I am running a steel flex fan, not the original solid fan. Something to look at I guess.
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My fan is a plastic flexible fan. It seems to move a lot of air. I'll see what I can find with the vacuum lines. I don't have a hand pump, but I have a bypass line on a compressor I use for vacuum bagging parts. Maybe that will work with the regulator turned down?

I took the carb apart a while ago and redid the gaskets, and the fuel pump was torn a bit, so I replaced that, but the fuel pathway seemed clear. This carb was rather simple looking when I took it apart, not very many pieces. What do I do to make it let a little more fuel lose? Specifically. The carb was unnaturally clean inside. Looked almost brand new.

Also for air moving around the radiator, I would think the two holes behind my turn signal lights, and the area below the radiator. Also the hood tends to shake on the freeway, so I'm assuming it could be lifting up a bit, but every adjustment I've made seems to not lock it down better. Perhaps I'm missing some adjustment component up at the rad support frame.
 
http://fa103bae2fcdce5f4ca4-8433f6a787655e103487a6f82474ce86.r70.cf2.rackcdn.com/1920_exploded.jpg

is this your carb? The item described as MAIN JET is the one that meters how much fuel is delivered off idle. Make sure it is clean with a brass appearance in the opening (not green oxidation). May need slightly larger jet. Not sure what number you are looking for exactly but there seems to be some people more knowledgeable about the Holleys here on the forum. What number is on the side with the screwdriver slot?

The hood adjustment should be fairly self explanatory. A screw on either side with a rubber bumper on top holds the hood up. The latch (slotted screw holes for adjusting up and down) holds the hood down against the stops.

I could probably send you my solid fan to try. Do you have the original one? Air tends to cavitate or get real turbulent and form pockets of static air when it does not have a directed path around obstacles. Mine has a shroud. directing the air may end up being the key. corrugated plastic cardboard or thin plastic sheeting trimmed to fit and secured with zip ties may be worth a try.?

Let me know what you think.
 
Voeltagear said:
http://fa103bae2fcdce5f4ca4-8433f6a787655e103487a6f82474ce86.r70.cf2.rackcdn.com/1920_exploded.jpg

is this your carb? The item described as MAIN JET is the one that meters how much fuel is delivered off idle. Make sure it is clean with a brass appearance in the opening (not green oxidation). May need slightly larger jet. Not sure what number you are looking for exactly but there seems to be some people more knowledgeable about the Holleys here on the forum. What number is on the side with the screwdriver slot?

The hood adjustment should be fairly self explanatory. A screw on either side with a rubber bumper on top holds the hood up. The latch (slotted screw holes for adjusting up and down) holds the hood down against the stops.

I could probably send you my solid fan to try. Do you have the original one? Air tends to cavitate or get real turbulent and form pockets of static air when it does not have a directed path around obstacles. Mine has a shroud. directing the air may end up being the key. corrugated plastic cardboard or thin plastic sheeting trimmed to fit and secured with zip ties may be worth a try.?

Let me know what you think.
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I'd be game for trying a solid fan. How much you want for it? The plastic one came on the car when I bought it, but I assume there was a 4 blade fan orginally. The PO was also chasing the heating issue, but let it get out of hand. There was a shroud already amongst other things that he basically threw away. I have a shroud in the making, but have not had time to work on it lately.

What do you mean by the screwdriver slot? Yes that's the carb I have. Do you mean the number above the float bowl?

Also the hood latch is as far down as it goes and the bump stops are in postition to make the hood seam match the fenders. It still shakes. Not sure why. You can't move it by hand, but on the freeway, it moves.
 
Serj22 said:
I'd be game for trying a solid fan. How much you want for it? The plastic one came on the car when I bought it, but I assume there was a 4 blade fan orginally. The PO was also chasing the heating issue, but let it get out of hand. There was a shroud already amongst other things that he basically threw away. I have a shroud in the making, but have not had time to work on it lately.

What do you mean by the screwdriver slot? Yes that's the carb I have. Do you mean the number above the float bowl?

Also the hood latch is as far down as it goes and the bump stops are in postition to make the hood seam match the fenders. It still shakes. Not sure why. You can't move it by hand, but on the freeway, it moves.
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The HEAT Demons are trying to get out! LOL :evil2:

The fan you can have for $25 and the price of shipping. It has seven blades with varied spacing. Spacer and bolts included. A 1976 225 /6 with shroud and A/C is what it came off of.

Like this one:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=168153

The screwdriver slot is on the Main Jet. It's how you remove the jet from the carburetor. There is a number stamped next to the slot that gives the opening size. Some rebuilt parts store carbs may have the incorrect jet for the particular application. :wack:

Does anyone here know the correct jet size for Serj22's 68 225/6? one thread here says stock is 61.

Interesting note I just read, mentions modern fuels with ethanol causing lean conditions compared to fuels available when our cars were produced. going up a size may be needed. Especially since you are diving higher speeds.

If you did not remove/clean inside the main jet during cleaning/rebuilding there may be some buildup restricting the fuel flow. This was the case on my old Carter BBS. Even thought I removed the jet I did not check inside the opening other than to see if light was passing through. There was enough oxidation to effectively decrease the opening size and cause it to run lean.

A question for you. when you flushed the engine with water, did you remove the block plug down by the oil filter? may be some stuff in the block yet. Although you did have the head off and probably looked down in the coolant passages.
 
Voeltagear said:
The HEAT Demons are trying to get out! LOL :evil2:

The fan you can have for $25 and the price of shipping. It has seven blades with varied spacing. Spacer and bolts included. A 1976 225 /6 with shroud and A/C is what it came off of.

A question for you. when you flushed the engine with water, did you remove the block plug down by the oil filter? may be some stuff in the block yet. Although you did have the head off and probably looked down in the coolant passages.
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I'll take the fan, PM me total cost with your PP email, it goes to 94510.

I did not remove said plug. I was not aware of its existance. When the head was off I stuck a coat hanger down in the coolant passages at the back and nothing was making me think it was plugged. Also when the crank turned, the passages readily shot huge amounts of water all over the ground... which I then had to clean up.

I'll take the holly back apart this Friday and see what's up with the jet. It's not terribly hard to dissasemble, and I'm assuming the gaskets can just be reused again? Not really wanting to spend another $40 on a set.

Also, Voeltagear, I noticed that when looking at the temp gauge, it gradually increases on the freeway, but when you slow down in town, it goes down rapidly. Also when the blinkers are on, the needle flicks with them... something I just noticed. Alternator? The phenomenon only occurs at idle or slower, and the less the alternator is charging, the lower the temp reads. The block temp when checked with a IR thermometer is still around 170-180 and occasionally 210, but the heat goes up to 230 sometimes on the freeway.

The other thing, is I have the SuperSix setup ready to go, along with a Carter BBD, with no kickdown linkage though. Is it worth messing with the holly for now, or just switching over and trying to create a homemade linkage and hope for the best? I'm assuming the carter lets in more fuel anyway so a lean burn would not be an issue? I could be wrong.
 
Borrowed this off another thread. 805MOPARKID posted this, assuming it's his image so hopefully I'm allowed to reference it here.

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I don't remember if I cleaned out the main jet or not. But this is really easy to get to. The float bowl cover comes off, and bam, there it is. SO I'll just handle pulling that out tomorrow when I have light. What should I clean it with? Like a wire or something?
 
Pulled the jet out. On the side it says "552"

I'm assuming this means .0552? Thousandths? Every jet I see in the comparable range says the measurement in 2 digits. I'm assuming this is slightly larger than a #55? Is that right? Everything i see online says to use a 56,57,58 etc... Plugs aren't saying it's running rich, and it seems lean, so what would the best option be? Also mine did not look clean like the one above. Mine is greenish and likely does not have the polished surface inside. I blew the jet out with carb cleaner, and put it back in till I know what I need. I also noted the spring on the float had moved off the float when I took it apart, not sure if that matters or if it's just to help reassemble the carb. The float level also was a bit higher than what I adjusted it to a few months ago.
 
A torch cleaning file set is cheap. find the closest one that fits and gently polish the inside of the opening. Otherwise a very small pipe cleaner with cleaner, like paint thinner.

I'll set up shipping the fan for tuesday next, I'll be off and can get to the post office while they are actually open. LOL.


Well if you go to the two barrel you will have to "tune" all over again. things like timing (possibly but not always) and idle air screw settings etc... the practice with the single barrel can't hurt. Make sure there is a 61 or 62 jet in the holley (should be able to pick up different jet sizes at o'reilly's auto parts if they have a performance section like they do here), then go from there. If it's the correct jet and clean try going up a size or two and see if it helps cool it down at cruise. It's pretty easy to check and then you will know where you sit as far a possibly running lean due to the carburetor tune. And the gaskets are reusable if they don't stick. I saw somewhere a video where the individual used silicone lube spray to help the gasket release for reuse later. I'd be careful to keep it out of the bowl area though.

The kickdown linkage I don't remember what is different (if anything) but I think it was close enough to use on the two barrel. The bracket bolts onto the manifold from the exhaust side which will have the same bolt pattern. the connection to the carb would be the difference if there is any. Just make sure the throttle lever on the transmission is fully pushed back with the carb at WOT.
 
#62?

The one in it now says 552. Not sure what the differential between the number system is, unless they are not in thousandths. See my before post.

Also hit me your paypal info in PM when you know total cost so I can pay ya.

The carb sits the other way on the bbd, so I'm assuming it would be different. But my throttle line is cable, so I can always put that where it pulls on the throttle, and ensure it hits W.O.T. on the kick
 
Well I trust SlantSixDan and his OE number on the tread I read was 058. Maybe get one size larger for ethanol blended fuel. Yours may have been for a feather duster or something like that. .054 seems common on some 1920s for economy, doesn't really work for higher speeds and blended fuel is seems.
 
Well, switched out the .054 for a .059. I ordered a 58, but got sent 2 59's. The car runs a lot smoother, and can move on the freeway better, but temperature-wise, the problem is still persisting.
 
May need more fuel yet, you have had the head shaved for the valve job. Who knows what else has been done to the block and head in the past. If the exhaust has been modified larger than stock it'll need more fuel and your intake (air horn/filter) has plenty of flow. I'd try a 61 or even a 62. If the fuel has ethanol it is gonna want more. And we drive A LOT faster now than the 55 MPH these cars were built for.

As for the gauge changing with engine RPM/alternator output- I'd make sure you have a constant voltage to the gauge. Any fluctuation in "reference" voltage will change the reading on the gauge. I've personally never used an electric Temp gauge other than the OE parts on the vehicle. I'd go with one that has a "mechanical" sensor. No power required, so no change in reading depending on battery/alternator output.

Fan will be in the mail for Tuesday. I'll get you my E-mail for pay pal.
 
Nothing notably different with the new fan, other than it seems to fit the radiator size better, and doesn't redirect air all over the place, just straight through the radiator.

I think I may back the jet off from a 59 to a 57. The mileage on my car dropped significantly from the 54, where I was getting 19mpg, down to 14... and it did not help cooling.

I am getting a different thought and may want to check the air gaps with a light and see if I can see a big air inlet that bypasses the radiator as you suggested Bob. I think it may be air related because on a cruise up a long steep hill the other day, the motor cranked a good 2500RPM, which is pretty close to what it does at 65 on the freeway (flat). On the hill, the temp didn't move, and I was only going about 25. The temperature stayed at 190.

Also, when I stop the car, to get a temp reading with my gun, while it's at 220 or 240 or so, by the time I pull off to the shoulder, stop, get out, and open the hood, the car cools down to 190 on the dash and head of the motor. Literally that fast.

The other thought i had was maybe the torque converter is worn, or the rear end is slipping somehow, causing the car to overwork. Is that possible? I don't know if T.C.'s go out in one failure, or can gradually wear out, but I feel like I push the gas too much to get moving. Or maybe that's just 4k lb car with 100horse motor... Not sure. It's still a issue, and it's getting gradually more stressful. I'd just like to be able to drive on the freeway... thank you for your help so far.
 
I agree the fuel economy drop is too much. I run 18 mpg pretty much all the time.

Your diff can not "slip", it is just 2 gears (pretty much), but it can wear out. If that were the case you would hear a considerable amount of noise from the back of the car.

The torque converter can slip (and always does to some degree. hence the transmission cooler on automatic cars) causing too much heat. there are transmission temp gauges out there. if the car shifts firm and the RPM are consistently the same at a given speed then probably not your issue. A transmission cooler mounted out of the radiator may help. If you have an auxiliary trans cooler, try removing the lines from the radiator, that would help eliminate the transmission as your heat source.

Yes do look for air flowing around the radiator, interesting that the temp stayed the same under a load at lower speed.

as far as pushing the pedal "to far" you have to remember the car was designed to drive 55 mph, and there is only 1 relatively small air inlet for the engine to breath. Switching from my Brothers 360 to my /6 is a very dramatic change in the go pedal department. I watched you video and it seems to accelerate just fine.
 
I tried to do a "like new" test and drive the car about 55-60, just so the needle was on the bright beam indicator and see if it helped ever. It didn't. The only time you see a cool down is when leaving the freeway, like on the video.

I switched to a #57, readjusted the idle, and my gas gauge is not dropping as fast visibly - but it drives the same, but I won't know for sure till I read it at my marker later in the week, and then re-evaluate with another tank of gas. Something of note, is that the temp gauge is back at 180, not like 190 as before while in town. This may just be me being hopeful but it is pretty consistent.

It's been a while with the new radiator, and it has not leaked yet, and seems to function. The transmission cooler is built in, so I'd have to find an alternative cooler to try the test. I know they're inexpensive, but I may have to wait to try it. The transmission seems fine, except when in a parking lot or going really slow - you push the gas, then all the sudden someone backs out of a parking spot, so you let off. The transmission goes into 1st I'm assuming, since i believe it starts moving in 2nd on the torqueflite? I could be wrong. When the downshift occurs (only at this low speed) there is a metal pop that occurs. The car does not move, or lurch, it just makes a loud sound. It does not occur at any other time.
 
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