543 0R 505

-
The pin being up into the oil ring land and needing a spacer isn’t a big deal at all.
That’s how most of the generic 511 low deck builds are.
Shoot my 1.320 pistons I'm using in my 470 are in the ring. I'm not quite sure why people are so concerned with it? The pin won't be effected, the rails are strong & forged pistons are strong.
 
Someone , either here or fbbo, posted that he just recieved his aftermarket block. Now that i want the post, i cant find it, naturally.
It looked to be a very nice piece, but who knows how much work it needs. I dont remember how long he waited.
He was asked, how much. The bill was almost $5500, if i recall.
 
The only question is where the valve reliefs are, will they work with maxwedge victors.

I doubt there will be adequate v/p clearance if you use a “bigger” cam.

I’m sure the situation will be clearer after a mock up is done.

My guess is...... if you already have the Victor heads....... that some off the shelf pistons that will work fine with those heads will be quite a bit less expensive than a B1 top end package.
 
I doubt there will be adequate v/p clearance if you use a “bigger” cam.

I’m sure the situation will be clearer after a mock up is done.

My guess is...... if you already have the Victor heads....... that some off the shelf pistons that will work fine with those heads will be quite a bit less expensive than a B1 top end package.
Exactly! I wont know for sure, till i mock it up. But i have already checked out the Icons you mentioned. They are in my cart at Jegs.
I have the second version of the victors, unfortunately. I would bave bought the 270 trick flows, but there was no such thing, at the time.
 
Someone , either here or fbbo, posted that he just recieved his aftermarket block. Now that i want the post, i cant find it, naturally.
It looked to be a very nice piece, but who knows how much work it needs. I dont remember how long he waited.
He was asked, how much. The bill was almost $5500, if i recall.

The one that appears to be missing some head bolt holes?

89518956-6767-4C98-AE4D-945858E9FF8D.jpeg
 
When new stuff gets put into the market........ I don’t ever feel compelled to be one of the first people on line for it.
 
We used Diamond shelf pistons for our 511 low deck with Victors and around .725ish net lift. There was .080/.100 I/E PtV although we had to removed .020 from the exhaust valve margin. Stick shift car that is raced so we stayed on the safe side.
 
I see a split block in ur future ----------
I'm very late to this thread, but although I had questions about what stroke to use, it's for different reasons.
I hope that block holds up for you @oldkimmer and before I decided to go with the Bill Mitchell Products aluminum RB block, my local builder and others, as well as my "common logic" and an explanation from the manufacturer, THIS cap and girdle set was unique and the best option to reinforce a factory block. You may want to give it consideration. As the description says, it has a unique mounting/installation and between that and the materials used, well...I was "sold" on it as were others:
Caps and Girdle System
p1030751_small (1).jpg

I'm going to use TrickFlow 270s on my 541. Even though it will accept a 4.50 stroke without internal clearancing, I prefer the lower piston speeds of a 541 to a 572 and that's based on a chart in AndyF's book "How to Build Max Performance Mopar Big Blocks" I'm also feeding it with the 6bbl setup with Promax mods and an Indy ModMan intake.
 
We’re gonna keep the revs to 6500 or less. Car is 3300 with driver. Hoping for the best. Kim
I hope you do great with it! I haven't even been able to read past the post I took that brief quote from to see what else has been written,
BUT
I will emphasize that that cap and girdle set is definitely worth reading about IF you are going to use one.
Hopefully I'll make it through all the other posts tonight!
 
Yes I’m looking at the BRC girdle. My block is already line bored with billet caps so I think it will need at least a hone. Idt it will be a bolt in. Kim
 
Yes I’m looking at the BRC girdle. My block is already line bored with billet caps so I think it will need at least a hone. Idt it will be a bolt in. Kim
It's BCR:poke::D
That's correct, or to be clear, (check with BCR) I am pretty sure there is some machining involved, and please check with BCR, but I think this is all you need?? From their girdle description:
"The caps will sit about .030 above the pan rail surface so that the final fitment is to surface grind the caps to the rail. Basically the machine shop will just kiss the pan rail so that there are no issues with the front cover."
You may also have to extend the oil pickup a bit, per their description.
Line boring with the caps installed? IDK, it would seem like that is needed, but hey! check with BCR lol.
 
Someone , either here or fbbo, posted that he just recieved his aftermarket block.
Well, I post on FBBO a LOT. The shop that's building my BMP circa "2019 redux" aluminum block just recently received it. I asked for pictures of
:thumbsup:my block to keep me motivated to work to pay for the build. The BMP aluminum block is around $5,800 but when you have a great shop doing the entire build, pricing becomes a "big picture" thing, and I'm very happy in that regard.
I figured why build a 700 Ft Lbs big block that will probably have 6XX Horsepower, and at those levels you're approaching the upper limit of factory blocks, cap walking, etc. So why invest all that money with the ceiling that close? In my case, I'm probably going to plan for a 150 shot of nitrous, but I may build for more. Irregardless, I am confident it will be long lasting and trouble free. Solid flat tappet lifters won't have me worried in stop and go, creeping at idle traffic like solid rollers would, and I won't have any hydraulic mechanism to be concerned about.
Those blocks can take a 4.50 stroke w/out clearancing, but I like the lower piston speed of a 4.35 stroke. With the 4.50 bore, it will be a 541, and I believe that sheer size will spare me any need for a hot cam and the associated stress on the valvetrain. Should be nice!
 
Bio, if you got your aluminum block for $5800, in my opinion thars a smokin' deal, if the callies iron blocks are $5400.
For me personally, the stock block with bandaids will have to do, for my build. The car its going in has been very low elevens, goal is mid tens, and thats about all i think i want out of it.
For me, (and im saying this as a diehard MOPAR LOVER!) it makes more sense for me to spend that $5800 on a 598" bbc short block, for my tube chassis car. Its already got a big (choke) chevy in it. I think it would probably go way faster than i need.
 
My 470 stroker has a BCR girdle. Stock main caps. It was built in 1998. Took it apart in 13 for a look see. Everything was perfect. No cap walk. It went back together with new valve springs and roller lifters. It had a 350 hp fogger system on it. Shifted at 8000 when using nos. Kim
 
Bio, if you got your aluminum block for $5800, in my opinion thars a smokin' deal, if the callies iron blocks are $5400.
What I'm saying is that I already had bought some stuff from John at Southeast Performance, last year when I was getting other stuff I had bought here and there from Summit and others over the previous year or so, staged and finally installed in my 70 Roadrunner, to replace worn parts (rear leaf springs) w/Calvert split mono leaf springs and sliders, improve other systems (stock to complete QA1 K-member and front suspension w/SPC UCAs), all the USCT subframe and frame strengthening parts, Wraptor serpentine belt and accessories system and so on. I bought one of the very first Dakota Digital RTX series gauge systems, rear triple adjustable Viking Warrior XS shocks, and so on, all at great prices from Southeast Performance, and in some cases, even though he has a great manufacturer portfolio he is a dealer for, he went so far as to become a dealer just to accommodate some of the choices I had made!!
So when I had decided to have him do my build, and no matter how I went through the thought process I always wound up at "BMP aluminum block" vs factory block w/cap and girdle, John had treated me so well and I already trusted him, of course I got the block through him! By the time I factor in the savings I already got, which will pale in light of what I'm going to save with build out parts (Callies, Molnar, Milodon, ARP, etc, etc) the actual total cost will mean the block "cost" a LOT less in the big picture. If anyone is wondering, I absolutely would have bought ONLY the BMP block from John as well, but the more I buy from him, the more I save.
FEAST your eyes, and YES, Bill Mitchell is beginning to stock these now, so for the post that said you want to call, buy, receive, and build, well BMP is the way to get there, and the only machining required is lifter bores honed to size, line hone mains, deck and bore finishing. For example, the big bore RB that I got has 4.49 bore, and I'm going 4.50.
MY block!
IMG_1558.jpg
IMG_1559.jpg
 
Last edited:
My 470 stroker has a BCR girdle. Stock main caps. It was built in 1998. Took it apart in 13 for a look see. Everything was perfect. No cap walk. It went back together with new valve springs and roller lifters. It had a 350 hp fogger system on it. Shifted at 8000 when using nos. Kim
Oh YESSSS!!!! That's radical man!!!
 
What I'm saying is that I already had bought some stuff from John at Southeast Performance, last year when I was getting other stuff I had bought here and there from Summit and others over the previous year or so, staged and finally installed in my 70 Roadrunner, to replace worn parts (rear leaf springs) w/Calvert split mono leaf springs and sliders, improve other systems (stock to complete QA1 K-member and front suspension w/SPC UCAs), all the USCT subframe and frame strengthening parts, Wraptor serpentine belt and accessories system and so on. I bought one of the very first Dakota Digital RTX series gauge systems, rear triple adjustable Viking Warrior XS shocks, and so on, all at great prices from Southeast Performance, and in some cases, even though he has a great manufacturer portfolio he is a dealer for, he went so far as to become a dealer just to accommodate some of the choices I had made!!
So when I had decided to have him do my build, and no matter how I went through the thought process I always wound up at "BMP aluminum block" vs factory block w/cap and girdle, John had treated me so well and I already trusted him, of course I got the block through him! By the time I factor in the savings I already got, which will pale in light of what I'm going to save with build out parts (Callies, Molnar, Milodon, ARP, etc, etc) the actual total cost will mean the block "cost" a LOT less in the big picture. If anyone is wondering, I absolutely would have bought ONLY the BMP block from John as well, but the more I buy from him, the more I save.
FEAST your eyes, and YES, Bill Mitchell is beginning to stock these now, so for the post that said you want to call, buy, receive, and build, well BMP is the way to get there, and the only machining required is lifter bores honed to size, line hone mains, deck and bore finishing. For example, the big bore RB that I got has 4.49 bore, and I'm going 4.50.
MY block! View attachment 1715737161View attachment 1715737163
. So this has steel caps. I thought that aluminum caps are the cats meow
 
. So this has steel caps. I thought that aluminum caps are the cats meow
Lol..aluminum caps are great for a powerful engine w/a factory iron block.....
Aluminum cross bolted heavy duty purpose crafted hairy nutsack blocks have corresponding billet steel caps, because they have 4 bolts in 'em! Lol
 
-
Back
Top