**600hp sbm block limit? Or is it bs!!**

[robert 68 cuda]

nope looks like the same girdle Hugh's sells i have one in my 426 small block ??? i have a question for mad dart is your engine race only or street engine .????

 

[catfishdw]

Enough real life information here to straight out go for it!

thanks i could used all the help i can get. here is some thing i have done to the car.

 

[Mad Dart]

nope looks like the same girdle Hugh's sells i have one in my 426 small block ??? i have a question for mad dart is your engine race only or street engine .????

Mine will be street/strip. Drive to the track, nock off an 8.50 at 160mph then drive it home at 1800rpm with my 2.76 or 2.94 gears in the rear

That Girdle MRL is selling looks noting like the hughes girdle...........The contact area on the Caps is probably less than 1/2 on the hughes part.

 

[catfishdw]

Okay Scott. I will share a few of my builds.

1. twin turbo 344 c.i. W2 heads T60 turbos (13 psi) .500 inch solid flat tappet 8.5 to 1 compression with tunnel ram and ancient Accel DFI f.i. stock 68 340 block stock 340 steel crank. 150 passes with no breakage = 911RWHP 890 ft/lb. Ran 8.68@168 at LACR (2900 feet) in a 3000 pound car.

2. twin turbo 360 c.i. stock block cast crank stock rods with TRW pistons 7.823 to 1 comp same cam as above with stock proted J heads single carb 750 cfm two T04s (10 psi) and air to air intercooler. 10.33 @ 133 in a 3517 pound Duster. Spun a rod bearing after turbo grenaded and sent garbage throughout oiling system. Full on street car with 2.76 gears.

3. 360 c.i stock block cast crank stock rods with JE forged pistons. 11.17 to 1 with ported J heads and Ultradyne nitrous cam .557/.540 246/240 duration 114 lobe seperation 750 holley 150 shot NOS cheater set on kill (over 200 to the tires) for tune up. Car had a low gear 904 with a 10 inch converter and 4.56 gears 8000 out the back door 10.90 128 @ Vegas in the heat. Weight 3440 pounds. Spun a rod bearing after 500 passes still no block issues. (Car in my avatar) with 10k street miles and yes on the highway with 4.56s. No problems.

We did kill a few head gaskets early on in build number one but it was due to detonation. EVen then no block breakage even though we were hammering on it.

i would love to talk to u about ur twin turb w2 motor. i know im useing an f1 but those are some awsome #s u have. the heads im use are the batten w2. and im have a soild rollor.8.9-1 comp. i 4bolt main my block, 1/2 fill it. how do u kn how the f1 compare to th turbos u had or have

 

[robert 68 cuda]

iv seen a block like that on the last page but it was a Chev junk ,but anyways it was a dirt engine and it ran the rev limiter a lot now I'm going to shoot a theory , now i think why thees engines fale a lot of guys run it on the rev limmiter at the line and its picking and choosing cylinder but the fuel never shots off on thoughts cylinders at lets say 5500 at the line and i think it and when you hit the trans break it gives it more rpm and pulling in more fuel and i think it kind like cylinder hydraulic hence broken rods and pistons what you think.???

 

[Mad Dart]

i would love to talk to u about ur twin turb w2 motor. i know im useing an f1 but those are some awsome #s u have. the heads im use are the batten w2. and im have a soild rollor.8.9-1 comp. i 4bolt main my block, 1/2 fill it. how do u kn how the f1 compare to th turbos u had or have

Turbodart68 aka Chris is well versed in the boost game. You should PM him and pick his brain!

 

[72turboduster]

High Rpms will kill a block a lot faster than hp. You will have more stress at 500hp at 8,000rpms than making 700hp at 7,000rpms. Which the pic of the blocked cracked probably came from a circle track/dirt track car spinning 8,500+. They are limited to certain parts not Rpms.

My 2 cents

 

[catfishdw]

Turbodart68 aka Chris is well versed in the boost game. You should PM him and pick his brain!

i will. mad dart u kool people.

 

[pettybludart]

Louis,are you running a windage tray in your engine(410ci)?

 

[inkjunkie]

Main hurdle after that would be the K Frame...... It would smack all of them pretty good once you figured out how to get an oil pan on it.

Not if you notched the k-frame used a pan similar to the one I have with a tube in it.....

 

[Mad Dart]

Louis,are you running a windage tray in your engine(410ci)?

No windage tray, 8 Quart pan but I run only 7 quarts in it to keep the oil off the crank and deter windage problems.

 

[Mad Dart]

Not if you notched the k-frame used a pan similar to the one I have with a tube in it.....

There you go.............That would fix it.

 

[Rodzilla]

Mine will be street/strip. Drive to the track, nock off an 8.50 at 160mph then drive it home at 1800rpm with my 2.76 or 2.94 gears in the rear

That Girdle MRL is selling looks noting like the hughes girdle...........The contact area on the Caps is probably less than 1/2 on the hughes part.

I have Mikes main caps and hughes girdle, contact area is same as that girdle in his picture. The caps make the difference on the contact area, not the girdle. You are correct when using stock caps, but in that case it wouldn't matter whos girdle is used.

 

[pettybludart]

No windage tray, 8 Quart pan but I run only 7 quarts in it to keep the oil off the crank and deter windage problems.

Yeah I ran an 8 qrt pan too without the tray.Was just wondering if it might,ve contributed to my disaster thats all.I dropped off my engines today to see what could be salvaged.(fingers crossed)

 

[Rodzilla]

Can hard block filler be used on a street car or will that be instant cooling headaches, if it can then how much, I have never seen it done and know nothing of what to use or how to apply it? I have an aluminum 4 core rad and so far only a single electric fan. Could the heat be beat?

 

[Mad Dart]

I have Mikes main caps and hughes girdle, contact area is same as that girdle in his picture. The caps make the difference on the contact area, not the girdle. You are correct when using stock caps, but in that case it wouldn't matter whos girdle is used.

I was talking about the contact area and how much more contact there is with the MRL set up. Their set up looks alot more stable than using spacers etc after machining the caps down with the Hughes set up on stock caps.

 

[Rodzilla]

I was talking about the contact area and how much more contact there is with the MRL set up. Their set up looks alot more stable than using spacers etc after machining the caps down with the Hughes set up on stock caps.

Its just the way you worded it then, I was just trying to make it clearer for anyone reading that the girdle didn't make the difference in contact but the caps do. Not trying to be an azz, just trying to clear that up :-D. I'm not sure if Mike makes his own girdle, that might be a Hughes in the pic. When I ordered my caps from him I don't remember him asking if I wanted a girdle or not.

 

[Mad Dart]

Its just the way you worded it then, I was just trying to make it clearer for anyone reading that the girdle didn't make the difference in contact but the caps do. Not trying to be an azz, just trying to clear that up :-D. I'm not sure if Mike makes his own girdle, that might be a Hughes in the pic. When I ordered my caps from him I don't remember him asking if I wanted a girdle or not.

Its no biggy, I have a hard time most of the time getting my thoughts typed out correctly. People need to know the facts and that is what you are doing.

 

[MRL Performance]

I did ask you Rod and you said you already had one. The girdles are pretty much all the same, I just made them work better.

A 1/2 fill works good on the street, to the top of the freeze plugs. Keep an eye on the oil temp, and if it becomes an issue just run an oil coller.

 

[Rodzilla]

I did ask you Rod and you said you already had one. The girdles are pretty much all the same, I just made them work better.

A 1/2 fill works good on the street, to the top of the freeze plugs. Keep an eye on the oil temp, and if it becomes an issue just run an oil coller.

Ya,,,I have an alzheimers issue myself,,,lol. I have pretty much ordered and replaced everything on my car in the last 6 months and my head is mostly filled with a jumble of parts etc. Keeping it all straight at times is an issue.
I was hoping you'd chime in again Mike. What exactly do you use to fill with? And is there anything you need to do to prep the water jackets, shotpeened like someone previously mentioned? Thanks

 

[turbodart68]

Turbodart68 aka Chris is well versed in the boost game. You should PM him and pick his brain!

Thanks, I still need to call you too. I am not ignoring you, just really busy.

i will. mad dart u kool people.

He is cool, just a little "mad" at times when it comes to boost. Haha. No seriously, A Procharger is an awesome piece. I have had a hand in a 434" Chivvy with a F3R and a Ford with a F2R. I have to say the Chevy hated the Procharger and it worked the front of the crank and broke it a few times. It now has a Big block snout on a Callies Magnum crank, problem solved. I think his highest HP number was in the 1400 range at the tires at 24 pounds of boost. The Ford had a Windsor and never broke the crank but it did drop a valve at 8500 on the dyno twice before we found that it was so lean on one cylinder that it melted the TI exhaust valve. We used a wide band O2 sensor and it indicated we were rich and I finally welded an O2 bung in each tube and made a few easy pulls to find that it wanted a jet in the right rear that was 10 jet sizes bigger than the rest. That why I was making a big deal about hats and blow through carbs. Point is that I think the Procharger will work well, I am interested to see how the snout holds up. I would inspect it after each trip to the track. If you can catch it early it can be fixed. I would also consider machining the crank for 2 keyways. Oh, and I like those aluminum W2s!!

Can hard block filler be used on a street car or will that be instant cooling headaches, if it can then how much, I have never seen it done and know nothing of what to use or how to apply it? I have an aluminum 4 core rad and so far only a single electric fan. Could the heat be beat?

I have had a little experience with half hard block (not in one of my Mopars, it was a procharged Ford actually) it seems to work fine if you go to the bottom of the freeze plugs. Oil temp is key. If it gets hot it will kill the bearings.

 

[raymond]

I did crack a Ford 289 block like the above picture. It was a throw together motor for my old Ranger I had while I was building the good one for it. Was beyond out of balance. Truck spun 3600 or so rpm on the freeway. Does not take much of an imagination to figure out why it happened, but it did run several thousand miles, a good portion of it with the go pedal in the floor board off roading.....

You mean like this!!!

 

[Supershafts]

iv seen a block like that on the last page but it was a Chev junk ,but anyways it was a dirt engine and it ran the rev limiter a lot now I'm going to shoot a theory , now i think why thees engines fale a lot of guys run it on the rev limmiter at the line and its picking and choosing cylinder but the fuel never shots off on thoughts cylinders at lets say 5500 at the line and i think it and when you hit the trans break it gives it more rpm and pulling in more fuel and i think it kind like cylinder hydraulic hence broken rods and pistons what you think.???

Doing burnouts and holding the motor against the rev limiter, or on the trans brake at the line against the limiter killlllllllls bearings. . .

 

[Wylde1]

Doing burnouts and holding the motor against the rev limiter, or on the trans brake at the line against the limiter killlllllllls bearings. . .

I bet it just pounds the living $#!+ outta them. :angry7:


Wylde1.

 

[Guitar Jones]

I bet it just pounds the living $#!+ outta them. :angry7:


Wylde1.

That's why I prefer to just put it on the converter when using the brake but man is it tough on the converter. I don't run a tranny cooler either so a two step is my only option but on a .400 pro tree, it's pull the chip out and go for it!