**600hp sbm block limit? Or is it bs!!**

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gagembassett said:
With some research and talking to a handful of people that have done factory LA/Magnum engines with W9s. W9s actually had a 59° variant but they are uncommon and it's actually recommended to use the 48° on the 59° block. You have to do some ever so slight clearancing for the pushrod guides. Then have to use W9 Raised Port rockers for the proper rocker offset. Not too hard based off of others experiences. Spacers must be made to make the intake fit but that's not a big deal.

Also I'd love to read your articles you mentioned about SBM taking 1,000 HP. I love to read info like that. Actually was just discussing with my coworker about using the Borg Warner S475 he has sitting on his shelf and upgrading a Magnum 360 to 375 HP before turboing. Using the math formula for turbo hp ((20 psi ÷ 14.7) + 1) × 375 N/A hp = 885 Turbo HP.
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Interesting. I have gone the other way putting a 59 degree head on a 48 degree block and it took quite a bit of work. I have a set of B1BA heads as well and I wanted to use them on a 340 block. They are moved centerline like the W heads. I have yet to find any info on whether they will fit or not. There is not too much info out there about these motors.
 
turbodart68 said:
Interesting. I have gone the other way putting a 59 degree head on a 48 degree block and it took quite a bit of work. I have a set of B1BA heads as well and I wanted to use them on a 340 block. They are moved centerline like the W heads. I have yet to find any info on whether they will fit or not. There is not too much info out there about these motors.
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They should fit. If I can put mine on I would think you could as well. Ingenuity is the name of the game when doing oddball stuff!
 
gagembassett said:
With some research and talking to a handful of people that have done factory LA/Magnum engines with W9s. W9s actually had a 59° variant but they are uncommon and it's actually recommended to use the 48° on the 59° block. You have to do some ever so slight clearancing for the pushrod guides. Then have to use W9 Raised Port rockers for the proper rocker offset. Not too hard based off of others experiences. Spacers must be made to make the intake fit but that's not a big deal.

Also I'd love to read your articles you mentioned about SBM taking 1,000 HP. I love to read info like that. Actually was just discussing with my coworker about using the Borg Warner S475 he has sitting on his shelf and upgrading a Magnum 360 to 375 HP before turboing. Using the math formula for turbo hp ((20 psi ÷ 14.7) + 1) × 375 N/A hp = 885 Turbo HP.
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Not articles, its his own rides that disprove the b.s. spewed by the guys who have never made more then 400hp in their lives with an SBM trying to scare everyone about em
turbodart68 said:
68 Twin Turbo Dart
68 twin turbo dart project.
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THESE
 
I think the type of power adder, who built the engine, tuner and who is running it all make a difference on how much power a block can handle. I’ve known guys that can’t keep a 400hp combo from splattering up the track and I’ve got a friend that ran a Fox Mustang in a stock block class, that’s stock block, rods, crank and piston in the 8s. The 5.0 Ford block is supposed to be good for about 550hp before it splits.
 
mshred said:
Not articles, its his own rides that disprove the b.s. spewed by the guys who have never made more then 400hp in their lives with an SBM trying to scare everyone about em

THESE
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Right, I just meant anything in general. Threads, articles, accounts. Anything
 
After hours of testing we have determined the factory block is fairly reliable up to 599 hp. lol
 
You'd need at least 100's preferably 1000's of examples of engines producing X amount of hp over number of years preferably in racing or another high stress usage with an acceptable failure rate, anything short of that your guessing.
 
273 said:
You'd need at least 100's preferably 1000's of examples of engines producing X amount of hp over number of years preferably in racing or another high stress usage with an acceptable failure rate, anything short of that your guessing.
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Love the Valiant!
 
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273 said:
You'd need at least 100's preferably 1000's of examples of engines producing X amount of hp over number of years preferably in racing or another high stress usage with an acceptable failure rate, anything short of that your guessing.
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It would still be speculation, there are no guarantee's with anything. Jimmy's block was good for 700hp lasting 100's of runs, but Jonnies R block exploded after only several runs
 
fishmens67 said:
It would still be speculation, there are no guarantee's with anything. Jimmy's block was good for 700hp lasting 100's of runs, but Jonnies R block exploded after only several runs
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Mostly depends on the tune and how well it was assembled, a well tuned and assembled block of glass could probably survive longer the a poorly tuned and assembled billet block
 
I think tuning is the key plus setting the engine up for success with lightweight parts. I just had a conversation with a well known small block guy that makes well over 1k hp N/A at 10,000 rpm and he split a Ritter block. He pays a well known engine builder to build his engines. With his 4” stroke at 10k rpm its super hard on a block. Plus he had one of the first ritter blocks and the problem was identified and fixed. He runs an R block now and is very happy with the results. I dont think an R block would survive what I put my motor through. There are so many factors in getting an engine to survive in a high hp application, well actually high torque because thats what kills, that results will definitely vary. My stock block stuff was very conservative. Using boost to make the power instead of timing or the fine edge of air fuel ratio will keep an engine from detonating and that, in my opinion is the key to making a stock block live. Much less any engine. I don’t advocate using the stock block but it can be done with careful tuning. We know a lot more now than we did long ago. Greg Aliano was really a pioneer in this arena
 
turbodart68 said:
I am gearing up to do a youtube video of a cheap chinese turbo kit on a stock 5.9 magnum to show that it can make over 1k hp with a sbe.
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Please do this, and do it quick, Holdener is going to do the same, Dulcich is currently building a magnum with boost shooting for 1k hp, and I am currently putting together a W2 magnum 5.9 with boost. As soon as Brian at IMM is finished with my W2s mine can go together. I’ll be watching your channel for new videos.
 
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When I get busy on my 70 ‘cuda I think I’m just going to have someone build something better than this EBay turbo set up I had mocked up. I ended up selling the headers and turbos. This engine wasn’t even built for boost but I think it could take mild boost in its current configuration with, as mentioned, dialed timing.
The engine in the turbo pics on an IMM 4” , +.060”, 340. 10.5:1, all forged. 550hp N/A on Bryan’s dyno.
I might just freshen up the 408” with the Procharger. It’s 650 on the Teuton’s dyno. It was really fun on the street and I only ran an MSD-6 and water/meth. It was like going wild in a Hong Kong brothel without a rubber and NOT getting an STD. I never hurt it. Life got in the way and the car got put up.
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Either way I need to figure out how to cool it. Was running water/meth but unreliably. Got a new Snow unit. Also have a new MSD 6 Programable with 2 bar MAP sensor. Also blow through carb has a fresh rebuild. The engine has been sitting so long I’m worried about the cylinder walls. I have a Magnum block for a backup. It’s a virgin Mopar Performance block from the crate engine program.
I’ve had this stuff sitting for years, moving from state to state.In the meantime EFI has improved so far as to be able to control timing.
I am somewhat at a crossroads because twin turbos appeal more to me now and the supercharger belt is a concern (looong).
The cuda has an Alter-K-tion so a custom built twin system could be a little easier.
My goal will be to make more power than a base Hellcat in the last year of their production.
Trans is a Tremec Magnum and rear is an S-60.
 
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turbodart68 said:
Interesting. I have gone the other way putting a 59 degree head on a 48 degree block and it took quite a bit of work. I have a set of B1BA heads as well and I wanted to use them on a 340 block. They are moved centerline like the W heads. I have yet to find any info on whether they will fit or not. There is not too much info out there about these motors.
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The moved centerline heads are called B1BAMC heads.
The standard heads( more like Eddie heads) are the B1BA heads.
They are 59 degree block compatible.
 
turbodart68 said:
I think tuning is the key plus setting the engine up for success with lightweight parts. I just had a conversation with a well known small block guy that makes well over 1k hp N/A at 10,000 rpm and he split a Ritter block. He pays a well known engine builder to build his engines. With his 4” stroke at 10k rpm its super hard on a block. Plus he had one of the first ritter blocks and the problem was identified and fixed. He runs an R block now and is very happy with the results. I dont think an R block would survive what I put my motor through. There are so many factors in getting an engine to survive in a high hp application, well actually high torque because thats what kills, that results will definitely vary. My stock block stuff was very conservative. Using boost to make the power instead of timing or the fine edge of air fuel ratio will keep an engine from detonating and that, in my opinion is the key to making a stock block live. Much less any engine. I don’t advocate using the stock block but it can be done with careful tuning. We know a lot more now than we did long ago. Greg Aliano was really a pioneer in this arena
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There is a guy who has been a poster on Moparts for years( and his dad I have seen post on here) who years ago did a cheap turbo powered stock stroke, stock block 360 than ran at least mid 9’s at 3700 pounds without leaning on it a great deal boost wise.
He would be a great person to talk to. His plans changed, but for a while he was going to make bolt on turn key turbo kits for small blocks.
Very sharp guy, as is his dad.
 
turbodart68 said:
Yes. Do you know if they will fit on a stock bore block though?
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Depends on valve sizes honestly. They should but worst case scenario you have to do a little bit of notching and de-shrouding. My W9s with have 2.15 and 1.6 which on a .030 over 360 I'm guessing it will require what I mentioned. Stock bore may be a little iffy
 
B3422w5 said:
There is a guy who has been a poster on Moparts for years( and his dad I have seen post on here) who years ago did a cheap turbo powered stock stroke, stock block 360 than ran at least mid 9’s at 3700 pounds without leaning on it a great deal boost wise.
He would be a great person to talk to. His plans changed, but for a while he was going to make bolt on turn key turbo kits for small blocks.
Very sharp guy, as is his dad.
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That's Scott "Dizuster"...he's using my old motor for NSS racing now. It was a magnum block and crank with good rods and good pistons. Blow-thru carb e85 and cnc eddy heads and custom hyd roller. Ran 9.55 @ at least 3750lbs. but it was being leaned-on to get there 22-24? pounds and it hurt things. He can better chronicle the build and it's evolution but here is an early pic of the set-up. That motor got repaired and rebuilt and is now in the green Duster that was at Autorama '24. I know it's an ebay turbo but he upgraded to a billet wheel along it's evolution. The 5.2L turbo 'kit' program is in Jerry's orange Demon and that is a good model for CHEAP but good power...I think he put 450HP to the tires about 11# of boost and he hasn't had it to the track yet tuned.

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