64 Barracuda slow going.
- Thread starter cudaguy36
- Start date
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Well its still got aloooong way to go but im trying
I had a compression test done monday to see where im at as far as cylinder condition.
Heres a pic of the results, not so good.
My tax return won't be enough to do a rebuild this year lol, and I really need to address other issues like the rear leafs and new rear shocks (and one tire) anyways.
So my plan is to check and adjust all the valves to spec (got alot of good info from FABO already) and add engine "Restore" as directed and see if that will buy alittle time before I get it rebuilt while I work out some of the other bugs.
Also can anyone suggest a good carb and cfm number for when I do get my 273 rebuilt? I will be upgrading from the stock 2 barrel to a 4 barrel and using my Edelbrock D4b intake, slightly hotter cam and maybe the commando style pistons (if I can swing it) . Not in a hurry as I will be saving up most of this year. Thanks all
Heres a pic of the results, not so good.
My tax return won't be enough to do a rebuild this year lol, and I really need to address other issues like the rear leafs and new rear shocks (and one tire) anyways.
So my plan is to check and adjust all the valves to spec (got alot of good info from FABO already) and add engine "Restore" as directed and see if that will buy alittle time before I get it rebuilt while I work out some of the other bugs.
Also can anyone suggest a good carb and cfm number for when I do get my 273 rebuilt? I will be upgrading from the stock 2 barrel to a 4 barrel and using my Edelbrock D4b intake, slightly hotter cam and maybe the commando style pistons (if I can swing it) . Not in a hurry as I will be saving up most of this year. Thanks all
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
I could see valve adjustment causing some of the variance you see on the comp. test. As far as when you go to 4bbl small blocks like 600cfm or smaller.
Thanks, I was thinking between 500 and 600 so thats good to know.
How long was it sitting before you started driving it?
If you have another vehicle to drive pull the plugs and put some ATF in each cylinder and let it sit for a couple weeks. After you have smoked out your neighbors, recheck compression dry and then wet (two squirts of motor oil per cylinder). The ATF will help free up any stuck rings and wet and dry compression gives you a better idea of true ring compression.
It sat for about 19 years before I got it running. Ive changed the whole ignition system to an electronic one, had the carter 2 barrel carb rebuilt, new gas tank ,lines and fuel pump, belts,plugs, and all fluids.
I havent removed the valve covers yet though. Ive put about 525 miles on it since I got it fired for the first time. I ordered a set of valve cover gaskets so ill be ready to check the clearances soon hopefully.
Ill post more once I actually get the time to do something, I live in an apartment so I can't dismantle too much at a time Lol.
Mine was locked up and needed a couple of months of ATF soaking in 2010 before I could break it loose. When I bought it I was told that "just needed a starter", it has been working on that starter for 7 years.
Ok , I dont have any pictures yet but Im excited because ive got some parts comming soon to solve my airshocks issue.
I ordered some new rear shocks 2" longer than factory and will order new 3" lift rear leaf springs tonight. So I should be able to clear my rear tires easily now and get a better ride without the risk of a blown airline ruining my rear tires again.
My question is this, do any of you have any advice/ tips for when I go to install the rear leafs? No lift, just jack stands and jacks.
How long am I looking at time wise? And yes I will have new u bolts before I start.
Thanks for any advice.
Oh and I also ordered a new headliner and padding to attempt myself even though everyone says not to, I figured I can always pay to have it done professionally some day when I can afford it later.
I ordered some new rear shocks 2" longer than factory and will order new 3" lift rear leaf springs tonight. So I should be able to clear my rear tires easily now and get a better ride without the risk of a blown airline ruining my rear tires again.
My question is this, do any of you have any advice/ tips for when I go to install the rear leafs? No lift, just jack stands and jacks.
How long am I looking at time wise? And yes I will have new u bolts before I start.
Thanks for any advice.
Oh and I also ordered a new headliner and padding to attempt myself even though everyone says not to, I figured I can always pay to have it done professionally some day when I can afford it later.
Ok I just finished installing the new 3"lift rear leaf springs along with 2" longer shocks and new shackles and u bolts. It took me 6 hours and tons of elbow grease but it sits just right now. I will test drive it tomorrow after I re torque all the bolts to spec and get some rest because I am wiped out . A lift and a saws all would have saved me a couple hours for sure. Also it was a pain doing this big of a job in my parking space at my apartment but it saved me alot of money.
So heres a pic of the stance now. I know some may not like it but the front end isnt raised from stock at all, it just sits alittle high from the new shocks and bushings. Now the rear sits more level and doesnt sag and no air shocks. Next ill tackle a valve lash adjustment thanks to all the great info ive got from FABO.
I actually like the stance! Not too high, not too low. I need to do my front end bushings...
Well I actually cheated there and paid a shop to install the polyurethane front end bushings. It really helped the front end tighten up and highlights how much slop I have in the steering box.
I would say it was worth it.
I would say it was worth it.
You can adjust some of the slop out of the steering gear, but you have to be careful. Better to be 2 hairs too loose, than 1 hair too tight. I adjusted mine about 1/8 of a turn and that took most of the slop out.
Thanks, ill try that hopefully next weekend when I get some time. Overall its ok as is if I just reminded myself its a 53 year old car.
Hopefully I can get mine as clean as yours someday.
Thanks. Mine is a driver though. I don't drive it daily, but I get it out as much as I can. The paint is 35 years old and still looking OK. It needs a headliner and I just haven't brought myself to try it yet. I've heard its bad enough with the glass out, let alone with the glass in. I'll probably give it a go this summer.
Im planning to give my headliner a try soon, I just got the liner and the padding the other day. I will try with the glass in. I will post about it with pics when I finish. Maybe next month.
So I received my new valve cover gaskets and decided to do a valve adjustment today.
This is what I saw when I removed the covers.
Notice the sludge and broken valve spring.
I decided not to bother and just stop driving it until I can get it rebuilt hopefully in a month or two. I already got an Edelbrock d4b intake and a 4 barrel carb off a 65' Commando car.
This is what I saw when I removed the covers.
Notice the sludge and broken valve spring.
I decided not to bother and just stop driving it until I can get it rebuilt hopefully in a month or two. I already got an Edelbrock d4b intake and a 4 barrel carb off a 65' Commando car.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
The sludge dont look that bad for an engine over 50 years old. The broken valve spring is a problem however.
Yeah it also has slowly started to smoke alittle now even after its warmed up. Ive only been driving it back and forth to work (4 miles) . Funny thing is the broken valve spring isnt even on the noisy side
.I am diverting all my attention to getting the rebuild asap now.
Hopefully ill have some good things to post in about 2 months : )
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