Don. Very Nice. Keeping all of the wiring, where they go, wire size for amperage capabilities, and etc would be an effort for certain....Anyway for me. Great work. Sgrip65
65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery
- Thread starter 65 Dartman
- Start date
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Don. Very Nice. Keeping all of the wiring, where they go, wire size for amperage capabilities, and etc would be an effort for certain....Anyway for me. Great work. Sgrip65
Since the harness is based upon an 80’s J Body (Mirada, Cordoba, Imperial), the colors are pretty much the same as even a 65 harness. Even the wire gauge is the virtually same with a couple of exceptions. I will of course be making wiring diagrams for all 4 areas - engine compartment, underdash, body harness and tailgate for the next caretaker
I got a decent start on things today - installed both relay assemblies, the Dakota Digital PAC1300 and the combination module I salvaged from the original J Body fuse Panel. This includes the turn signal flasher, Time Delay relay and Hazard flasher. After deciding the length of the wires, crimping and soldering the trrminals, got both relays installed to the hot side. Aldo got most of the wiring to the Pac1300 sorted and installed
starting va with this:
And when I finished this evening:
I figure a couple more days and I’ll be done
starting va with this:
And when I finished this evening:
I figure a couple more days and I’ll be done
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Well, that post was from July 4th and today is July 25 - I figured just a couple of days to wrap everything up - not even!
Try as I could to find a home for my Sirius radio, it just wasn’t possible. The only spot was in the dash. So after some careful measurements, I cut the dash for the radio mounting box; after securing the mounting box, the radio locks into the box
The piece I cutout:
The rectangular holes was supposed to be for the Door Ajar warning light and Fasten Seat Belt reminder
There was no place in the dash area to use these BUT I could use some round ones I bought for the 47 project, After modifying a junk ignition switch, the Fasten Seat Belt light fit in the OEM bezel perfectly. I drilled out where the high beam light is located on the 66 Barracuda dash for the Door Ajar warning light, which when either door is open (or not completely latched) will light up and indicate “Door Ajar”.
Of course I needed to run the wiring for these lights. I had been checking and double checking even triple checking all the wiring to make sure everything went where it was supposed to go and every circuit was protected by a fuse or circuit breaker.
Besides the Always Hot and hot in Run/Accessory in the main fuse panel, theres a separate fuse panel inside the glove box for 4 specialized circuits (turn signals/back up lights, hazard circuit, radio illumination and chime
The good news is the harness is now wrapped with the non-sticky harness tape!!
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Hi Don. For certain, one of a kind. Your own idea for this modification...or are others done this way which you have seen? Either way, very nice. Sgrip65.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Lookin good Don! Every little step is one step closer! 
i guess I can take all the credit for all these modifications. I guess the closest I’ve seen is helping my French friend work through his complete vehicle rewire. I can’t remember if he used American Autowire of something similar. If I had gone with the stock 66 Barracuda dash instead of going with the Dakota Digital conversion and then adding some of their specialized modules, I would have been done weeks or even months ago. Then I would have missed all this fun I’ve had!
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66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Very cool build!
My wife made the remark that the top of the dash seemed kind of shiny. I said it’s supposed to have a suede finish that’s a dull finish, which it does not even come close. She asked if I could use something like a piece of medium blue vinyl from material that I bought for a long gone 67 Charger. I believe that would work, and also look like a modern dash as well.
Close up of a piece of the vinyl:
After masking the front of the dash, outer speaker holes, defroster vent holes and center speaker area,
did the spray glue and carefully positioned the piece of previously cut vinyl. I later later cut out all the holes.
After a quick cleaning of my light metallic blue dash pad, and a quick fit to see how it’ll all looks, i like it! I might get the paint supply mix up some dye to make it look better.
Today I got The paint supply to mix up a spray can of blue paint that would compliment the color of the vinyl. I painted a spare set of defroster vents and the center speaker cover and fit them. I Still need to paint the outer speaker grilles.
Close up of a piece of the vinyl:
After masking the front of the dash, outer speaker holes, defroster vent holes and center speaker area,
did the spray glue and carefully positioned the piece of previously cut vinyl. I later later cut out all the holes.
After a quick cleaning of my light metallic blue dash pad, and a quick fit to see how it’ll all looks, i like it! I might get the paint supply mix up some dye to make it look better.
Today I got The paint supply to mix up a spray can of blue paint that would compliment the color of the vinyl. I painted a spare set of defroster vents and the center speaker cover and fit them. I Still need to paint the outer speaker grilles.
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I have a set of NOS blue defroster vents that I’ve been saving for the wagon after I acquired it in 2005. Compared to the darker blue defroster vents I painted, I think the NOS vents are way too light and the wrong shade of blue for the top if the dash.
Hi Don. If you care to have an opinion, I think the dark blue looks much better. All in all, your set-up on the entire dash looks outstanding. When it's all done, as I commented before, a one of a kind for certain. Nice. sgrip65
Thanks Jerry! Always willing to get others opinions.
I kept looking at my dash pad that has a couple of small stains or discolorations in it. I decided to dye it the same color as the dash face.
BEFORE:
After thoroughly cleaning it, I sprayed the dye that the paint shop mixed for me yesterday morning:
AND AFTER:
What a difference!
And now installed the inside lighting doesn’t do it justice compared to the outside shot!
Now I need to install all the top of the dash stuff - outer corner speaker grilles with speakers, center of the dash midrange speakers, center speaker grille cover and both defroster vent covers all newly painted with the flat blue color the paint supply mixed for me Monday. Before installing the instrument cludter I need to verify the NOS late 60’s Heater/AC controller I have is gonna be compatible with the 65 system as the electrical terminals are different than the 65 controller.
BEFORE:
After thoroughly cleaning it, I sprayed the dye that the paint shop mixed for me yesterday morning:
AND AFTER:
What a difference!
And now installed the inside lighting doesn’t do it justice compared to the outside shot!
Now I need to install all the top of the dash stuff - outer corner speaker grilles with speakers, center of the dash midrange speakers, center speaker grille cover and both defroster vent covers all newly painted with the flat blue color the paint supply mixed for me Monday. Before installing the instrument cludter I need to verify the NOS late 60’s Heater/AC controller I have is gonna be compatible with the 65 system as the electrical terminals are different than the 65 controller.
Those parts looks great. It's so nice to start the assembly process when the parts looks like that!
Looks great! You have some amazing skills fabricating new stuff. Looks like a factory piece with modern touch!
The top of the dash is done! From the driver’s side is the outer speaker cover from an early 70’s B Body which holds a 2.5 inch tweeter, then the defroster vent, and in the middle is the center grille cover under which are a pair of 4 inch midranges. The left one will be paired with the left outer tweeter; the right midrange will be paired with it’s outer
companion tweeter
The passenger side is a mirror image of the drivers side
I had previously installed the radio receiver receptacle after cutting the dash. Using the built in mounting tabs, it was still loose. I knew I’d have to do some repair work if i tacked it in place. It’s now that time lol!
companion tweeter
The passenger side is a mirror image of the drivers side
I had previously installed the radio receiver receptacle after cutting the dash. Using the built in mounting tabs, it was still loose. I knew I’d have to do some repair work if i tacked it in place. It’s now that time lol!
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Don. What else need be said.....a talented craftsman doing excellent work!!!! Very, very, nice. Looking forward to stopping by someday for a ride. Certainly, a group that knows every nut, bolt, and part that goes into these 65 Darts. Me, a GT......but a wagon, for me would be a new experience. Great work!!! Sgrip65
I can just agree with you! He always have some neat solution in his pocket. Will be nice to see it in person when ready!
Before:
After:
With the receptacle tacked in place, tack welds dressed up and metal lightly sanded, a couple of light coats of the light blue metallic dash paint, it’s ready for the radio.
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Looks like I lost everything concerning my issues with the HVAC controller in the server crash.
The issue basically Boiled down to the NOS controller (which I had determined was for 68-72 and not 60-76 as advertised when I bought it years ago) being different electrically-speaking different from the 3 old 65/66 broken controllers still attached to the hoses from the units I had bought. You can see the difference in the terminals here. Tge 65/66 controller is the white one, black one is the nee one.
the 65 AC supplement I have was sort of a help; I was hoping the 69/71 FSMs i had would show where all the terminals went. Yes BINGO! Additionally, it showed the same components as was shown in the 65 supplement
With both sets of wiring diagrams I was able to construct a new wiring harness to join all the components to the terminals on the controller. The main difference it seened was one of the terminals was routed a bit different to one of the components and the other two went to the fuse panel. 5 hours of work went into this harness. I needed to lengthen the wire going to the compresser and will likely need to lengthen the wire to the blower motor. I will do that at a later date when it’s all installed.
One thing I noticed was the firewall grommet from the original wiring (and from the firewall grommet for the vacuum hoses) Were routed in from the nice flat side leaving this ugly looking knob inside the engine compartment.
This meant the wires/hoses were routed threw the grommet and was installed from the insidei. I decided to install the grommets where seen in the engine compartment where they looked good.
Grommet for the hoses to the water valve and vacuum fitting on the intake
And the grommet fior the wires going to the blower motor and compressor. It might be wrong byt thats OK by ne
The issue basically Boiled down to the NOS controller (which I had determined was for 68-72 and not 60-76 as advertised when I bought it years ago) being different electrically-speaking different from the 3 old 65/66 broken controllers still attached to the hoses from the units I had bought. You can see the difference in the terminals here. Tge 65/66 controller is the white one, black one is the nee one.
the 65 AC supplement I have was sort of a help; I was hoping the 69/71 FSMs i had would show where all the terminals went. Yes BINGO! Additionally, it showed the same components as was shown in the 65 supplement
With both sets of wiring diagrams I was able to construct a new wiring harness to join all the components to the terminals on the controller. The main difference it seened was one of the terminals was routed a bit different to one of the components and the other two went to the fuse panel. 5 hours of work went into this harness. I needed to lengthen the wire going to the compresser and will likely need to lengthen the wire to the blower motor. I will do that at a later date when it’s all installed.
One thing I noticed was the firewall grommet from the original wiring (and from the firewall grommet for the vacuum hoses) Were routed in from the nice flat side leaving this ugly looking knob inside the engine compartment.
This meant the wires/hoses were routed threw the grommet and was installed from the insidei. I decided to install the grommets where seen in the engine compartment where they looked good.
Grommet for the hoses to the water valve and vacuum fitting on the intake
And the grommet fior the wires going to the blower motor and compressor. It might be wrong byt thats OK by ne
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Very Nice Don. By all means, your build is "By The Seat of The Pants." One of a kind for sure. With your work on this, you will be writing your own manual!! Great to follow along on your great thread. Sgrip65
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Dartman, what size is that hole in the firewall for the grommet, and do you have any extras?
IIRC i have another one for the 3 vacuum lines which is the smaller of the 2 grommets. I didn’t measure the factory holes in the firewall before installing them. If need be I can pull them out and measure
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Over the past several days I’ve been rebuilding the AC underdash part of the system. First up was flushing out the evaporator. There were no surprises inside other than a bit if crud - nothing major though. I had previously sandblasted the case and painted it black and installed the insulation in the evaporator compartment
Installed the evaporator and The factory screen in front of it
the evaporator compartment cover was a problem due to the brand new insulation but finally got it installed
added the 2 vacuum pods and hoses and Temperature Control Switch
And the blower motor which I previously tested, cleaned and painted
and the die cut insulation from DMT installed to the firewall side of the case
with a Before picture:
And the After for comparison:
Ready to install.
Installed the evaporator and The factory screen in front of it
the evaporator compartment cover was a problem due to the brand new insulation but finally got it installed
added the 2 vacuum pods and hoses and Temperature Control Switch
And the blower motor which I previously tested, cleaned and painted
and the die cut insulation from DMT installed to the firewall side of the case
with a Before picture:
And the After for comparison:
Ready to install.
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Very Nice. A brand new 65 Dart Wagon Delivery. Any date set for completion Don?
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