65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery

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So I spent today working on the console some more - like over 5 hours - this time was to fit the shifter, it’s little 2 piece console and the OEM console top plate. The shifter wasn’t too bad since it fits flat on top of the flat plate.
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After marking where I wanted it, time to remove the flat plate, drill mounting holes and weld the bolt heads to the underside to act as a stud, apply etch primer to both sides, and install it again. Then it was in and out of the car numerous times to trim the top plate to fit around the shifter console. I did say numerous times, didn’t I? My legs are definitely letting me know. Finally got it trimmed and fit to my satisfaction. I don’t know what it’s made of but it’s one tough cookie to cut even with a cut-off wheel and jig saw with a metal blade! I still need to finish the back of the console and add a hinge to raise the armrest,; that’ll be for another day.

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And of course the whole assembly has got to be removed again to fit and install the carpet
 
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Well, I screwed up by overlooking one small but important detail on installing the little black mini console that comes with the shifter! I had it sitting on the hump when I did all the surgery on the console top plate. If I had read the directions more closely, I would have seen that the mini console needs to sit right on the shifter top bracket and if it is still touching the floor hump, trim as needed so it will sit on the shifter brackets. OK, so I trimmed it sufficiently so it sits properly and has clearance for the console courtesy lights. Now I find out that where I cut the top plate, there’s way to much space between the mini console and console top plate and will be virtually impossible to fix. OK, so I’ll check fleabay and hopefully find another top plate to do surgery on.

Well OK, I can still get the hole cut in the tunnel for the cable. Now I find that the hole will be right where the upper crossmember is located. I can’t really move the shifter forward the 3 inches needed for the cable hole (too close to the AC vent) and really can’t move it back (power window switch and the forward part of the armrest) is suppose to occupy that area.

Knowing now how this clusterfock was going to turn out, I should have gone with my 2nd choice of shifters - the Winters 257 for the 904-based transmission) which is a rear output cable. I do have one ordered and will hopefully be here within the next week or so. I’ll probably have to tear everything out that had been done, so right now it’s about 4 or 5 or 6 steps back and none forward on this part of the project. I just love all this custom work!
 
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I finally received my new shifter - the Winters 257 shifter for the 904-based transmissions:
1F5DB923-6F93-4BF6-A73D-EFE66D3D8CB7.jpeg


and found a decent 66/67 console top plate that took quite awhile to get here (said his Post Office there in TX was closed due the cold and no power)

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So time to basically start over to fit the shifter and modify the console top plate to fit the shifter. After a couple of days working on and off, I’m satisfied how it looks. I still have to fabricate some kind of cover for the rear of the console, find some hinges for raising the armrest and find room under the top front plate for a small fuse panel for the power window and door lock modules. That’s for another day! Other than the shifter it looks basically like the Hurst unit that wasn’t gonna work in this application.

D8EF1B8C-6CB4-4061-A6E3-E05436CDF3AC.jpeg
 
Well, it’s a good thing i decided to mock up the placement of the power window switch and the power door lock modules! I found out the shifter lower housing doesn't leave enough clearance to the console top plate to install the window switch and wiring!

As for the lock modules, they will fit under the console in front of shifter. If I did that, then driver’s side wiring is not long enough to reach where it needs to end up. The passenger side was OK. It seems the modules need to be installed at at one end of the dash or the other. Space is really limited at the driver’s side, so Got them installed under the dash on the passenger side with the passenger side wiring now feeding the driver’s side and short side to the passenger side.
 
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I finally received my new shifter - the Winters 257 shifter for the 904-based transmissions:
View attachment 1715700224

and found a decent 66/67 console top plate that took quite awhile to get here (said his Post Office there in TX was closed due the cold and no power)

View attachment 1715700222

So time to basically start over to fit the shifter and modify the console top plate to fit the shifter. After a couple of days working on and off, I’m satisfied how it looks. I still have to fabricate some kind of cover for the rear of the console, find some hinges for raising the armrest and find room under the top front plate for a small fuse panel for the power window and door lock modules. That’s for another day! Other than the shifter it looks basically like the Hurst unit that wasn’t gonna work in this application.

View attachment 1715700223
Don! Would it be possible to fin two more
I finally received my new shifter - the Winters 257 shifter for the 904-based transmissions:
View attachment 1715700224

and found a decent 66/67 console top plate that took quite awhile to get here (said his Post Office there in TX was closed due the cold and no power)

View attachment 1715700222

So time to basically start over to fit the shifter and modify the console top plate to fit the shifter. After a couple of days working on and off, I’m satisfied how it looks. I still have to fabricate some kind of cover for the rear of the console, find some hinges for raising the armrest and find room under the top front plate for a small fuse panel for the power window and door lock modules. That’s for another day! Other than the shifter it looks basically like the Hurst unit that wasn’t gonna work in this application.

View attachment 1715700223
Would it be possible to find two more console covers and cut them up so you can cover the rest of your console?
 
Don!
Would it be possible to find two more console covers and cut them up so you can cover the rest of your console?

Ulf - the replacement console top plate fits perfectly after I very carefully cut out the opening to fit around the shifter’s little black console. My buddy (who used to have a 67 Charger) stopped by and said everything looks like it could have been original!
 
looks good. have you checked the cable length yet? by the time i routed mine, and kept it off the exhaust, i decided a couple more feet was helpful.
 
looks good. have you checked the cable length yet? by the time i routed mine, and kept it off the exhaust, i decided a couple more feet was helpful.

Thanks for the tip on the cable. Seems everybody provides a 5 ft cable, including the Winters. I have not drilled any holes in the console or tunnel as I will know more once the drivetrain and exhaust is installed.
 
Ulf - the replacement console top plate fits perfectly after I very carefully cut out the opening to fit around the shifter’s little black console. My buddy (who used to have a 67 Charger) stopped by and said everything looks like it could have been original!
Good to hear! It looks stock to me. Your doing a great work on your delivery.
 
if you end up wanting a new one, ART CARR carries all the parts, and are easy to work with.
don't know if you ever look at the H.A.M.B. but all the work your doing reminds me of this one
 
I kept looking at my armrest and it didn’t seem to look “right” about the proportions on it.

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Then while looking through eBay for the console light wiring harness (which I did find a set) and after I eliminated any wiring I didn’t need

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i saw an OEM console armrest assembly. It is much thinner than what I fabricated. I decided to tear mine apart and make it about as thin as the one on eBay. It took a couple of days working some each day. The results are much more pleasing to the eye!

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in between redoing the armrest, we had a nice warm day - perfect to spray the radiator area and surrounding area with the flat black paint. The sunlight kinda washed out the black. Anyway, another little thing crossed off the list

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While perusing eBay, I spotted this gem

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it fits over the rear of the console and covers the storage area. That ought to work with the new armrest I fabricated that I was wondering how to hinge it to the console. The stock factory armrest is hinged at the back

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So i bought the storage/armrest bracket in the first pic and thought my troubles were over!

I had still been thinking where to mount my power window switch and voila - the perfect spot would be where the latch knob is located at the front of the bracket. So i spent some time with the cut-off wheel and Now the switch is mounted.

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now the only issue is the armrest pad is too long and covers access to the switch. No problem - time to open the pad back up and shorten it!

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Time to start routing the console courtesy lights and power window switch wiring to where they need to end up. To facilitate possible future removal from the console, i added connectors to each harness

Console courtesy lights:
4F912B6F-638D-4287-940A-6F4A23613E2D.jpeg


Power window switch harness
A83CC930-A3AD-4E7B-97BD-30455AC1D545.jpeg


Harnesses that connect to the above
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Then secured each intermediate harness to the floor in front of each seat. I left plenty of each harness to reach the window motors and to connect the courtesy lights to the dash area. I’ll lay each sub harness
Over the Kilmat but under the carpet of course

Driver’s side window/courtesy light harnesses:
239162C3-DBB9-4F3D-9B1B-D78759FE8C16.jpeg


Passenger side window harness:
E0EB68C6-0147-462D-B7D5-9A25D4BF509C.jpeg


I was watching the discussion about Kilmat, Noico and similar products. I decided on the 80 mil thick Kilmat which was sold in the 36 sq ft quantity. This size completely covered the firewall up to the OEM-style firewall insulation pads (from DMT), the floors and tunnel up to under the rear seat with 1 sheet left over. The Kilnat confirms to the tunnel and floor contours very well.

Front:
90E0439D-604D-4722-A208-5ABA5B7C84BA.jpeg

rear:
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Next step is the carpet. The Kikmat and carpet ought to keep the exterior noise and heat to a manageable level.
 
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looking good, that'll make it much quieter inside and i like the idea of the sub looms. is it worth cutting the last sheet in half and sticking one in the middle of each door skin to help with any possible drumming?
neil.
 
looking good, that'll make it much quieter inside and i like the idea of the sub looms. is it worth cutting the last sheet in half and sticking one in the middle of each door skin to help with any possible drumming?
neil.

I am considering buying another box of it as i’m sure I’lll need it for my 47’s floors. Just not right now. I prefer to buy stuff just prior to needing whatever I’m buying but to put a few sheets inside the doors might not be a bad idea!
 
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Time to start routing the console courtesy lights and power window switch wiring to where they need to end up. To facilitate possible future removal from the console, i added connectors to each harness

Console courtesy lights:
View attachment 1715711286

Power window switch harness
View attachment 1715711405

Harnesses that connect to the above
View attachment 1715711406

Then secured each intermediate harness to the floor in front of each seat. I left plenty of each harness to reach the window motors and to connect the courtesy lights to the dash area. I’ll lay each sub harness
Over the Kilmat but under the carpet of course

Driver’s side window/courtesy light harnesses:
View attachment 1715711412

Passenger side window harness:View attachment 1715711284

I was watching the discussion about Kilmat, Noico and similar products. I decided on the 80 mil thick Kilmat which was sold in the 36 sq ft quantity. This size completely covered the firewall up to the OEM-style firewall insulation pads (from DMT), the floors and tunnel up to under the rear seat with 1 sheet left over. The Kilnat confirms to the tunnel and floor contours very well.

Front:
View attachment 1715711419
rear:
View attachment 1715711288

Next step is the carpet. The Kikmat and carpet ought to keep the exterior noise and heat to a manageable level.


Looks great Don! Actually it looks like the factory did or should have done it!:thumbsup:
 
I don't know if it spacer the passenger seat height to match, Don. If your power rack is the 6 way rack, that is. It is designed to have height adjustment to fit the driver.

The power rack switch looks to be just 1 knob for back and forth and the other one for up/down. I will confirm that hopefully tomorrow. If it has a tilt feature, all the more better Once the next owner takes ownership, I will care less of course.

Lazy me as I finally got around to checking the power rack for its functions. Forward and backward, up and down and tilt to the back and front. For the passenger front seat, I will be using one from a 66 Barracuda. I forgot that early A buckets had a bunch of manual adjustments so I’ll adjust the passenger side to whatever is comfortable for the wife
 
Lazy me as I finally got around to checking the power rack for its functions. Forward and backward, up and down and tilt to the back and front. For the passenger front seat, I will be using one from a 66 Barracuda. I forgot that early A buckets had a bunch of manual adjustments so I’ll adjust the passenger side to whatever is comfortable for the wife
Will turn out great! Are you going to add heated seats? That's something I would consider on my cars, especially during winter time!
 
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Will turn out great! Are you going to add heated seats? That's something I would consider on my cars, especially during winter time!

When I was thinking about what I wanted in this project, I decided heated seats would be nice so I bought the kit snd when I get around to upholstering the seats, I’ll install them. Oh, and the driver’s seat will get a power lumbar addition as well!
 
When I was thinking about what I wanted in this project, I decided heated seats would be nice so I bought the kit snd when I get around to upholstering the seats, I’ll install them. Oh, and the driver’s seat will get a power lumbar addition as well!
What is power lumbar?
 
It means he can push a button and a thing inside the seat will expand to make his tired ol aching back feel better! A lot of newer vehicles have them, and it helps when you've been riding for a while and the lower part of your back needs more support.

:thumbsup:
 
Just as JD said, that thing in the lower seat back is an inflatable bladder that is inflated/deflated by a small 12 volt motor under the seat base. Gives needed support as needed to the lower back
 
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