66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?

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Thanks for looking!

I am still interested in that connector, though. I'll PM you.
 
I might have a single pulley for you and a breather cap at home. I'll check when I get home and let you know.
 
That would be superb!

It would make me so proud to have parts on my car that used to belong to the master of all car renovation. :prayer:
 
Installed the starter again a couple of days ago. Tried using the transmission dust cover I had. Should have checked the drill pattern first. A 904 dust cover will NOT fit on a 727 for all of you out there who stayed awake wondering.

So now I need a dust cover for a 727, too.

Finally got the front end up on jacks so I could get under to mount the starter. I'd never gotten a really good look at the underside of the car before. Got me a little worried. There is black paint on top of a very uneven and lumpy layer of rust protection. Some new and some old. Makes it look like the entire car is very rusty and simply painted over.

I decided to convince myself that it is all good.

Wonder what happened here, though.
 

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Also decided to look over the exhaust manifolds. I figure all they need is some work with the brush wheel. But should that pin really be bent like that?

And the axle for this choke (?) is seized. How do I connect it, anyway? What's it for?

/newbie
 

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Hm. Seems my (front) brake calipers are toast. Or at least 6-7 of the 8 pistons. Or what do you think? The cylinders are pretty much ok, it's btw seal and boot that the rust is pretty serious.

Wonder if I should look into the possibility to change to aome european bran of brakes. A set of beefy, used Audi or BMW calipers are probably less than shipping on a set of originals from the US.

Did anyone out here do this?
 

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360DartGT66 said:
Installed the starter again a couple of days ago. Tried using the transmission dust cover I had. Should have checked the drill pattern first. A 904 dust cover will NOT fit on a 727 for all of you out there who stayed awake wondering.

So now I need a dust cover for a 727, too.

Finally got the front end up on jacks so I could get under to mount the starter. I'd never gotten a really good look at the underside of the car before. Got me a little worried. There is black paint on top of a very uneven and lumpy layer of rust protection. Some new and some old. Makes it look like the entire car is very rusty and simply painted over.

I decided to convince myself that it is all good.

Wonder what happened here, though.
Click to expand...

Yikes, that looks like it got rusty and somebody patched a poor cover over it.....I would look into it more and get that fixed.
 
66340SEDAN said:
Yikes, that looks like it got rusty and somebody patched a poor cover over it.....I would look into it more and get that fixed.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's what I thought. I'm starting to think this car had a more than minor front impact somewhere down the line. There are a few irregularities ...

Good thing I have a good angle grinder. :D
 
The worst caliper came out a lot better than I expected after a run with the wire wheel. I think they might be possible to save after all. I just need new pistons and a seal kit. and I have no reason to doubt Don (65 Dartman) when he says they're available.
 

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Yesterday I finally got the rear up on stands too. Crawled under to examine the rear end. The casting number is 2070741 so I suppose it's the flimsiest kind.

Can anyone tell me what the practical limit for this center section would be in terms of power and torque? Not that I think I run any great risk of exceeding it, but still.

I made a mark on the wheel and turned the yoke until the wheel made a full turn. Came out pretty close to 3 1/4 turns. I suppose that means the gears are 3.23?

Will be filling it with oil today. Finally ... Google says fill until oil comes out the fill hole and then top off after driving. Correct?
 

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360DartGT66 said:
Yesterday I finally got the rear up on stands too. Crawled under to examine the rear end. The casting number is 2070741 so I suppose it's the flimsiest kind.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't call it flimsy. It is just not quite as big at the 742 or 489 pinion.

360DartGT said:
Can anyone tell me what the practical limit for this center section would be in terms of power and torque? Not that I think I run any great risk of exceeding it, but still.
Click to expand...

Back in the day (64-65 or so), they run the Hemi using the 741 gears.

360DartGT said:
I made a mark on the wheel and turned the yoke until the wheel made a full turn. Came out pretty close to 3 1/4 turns. I suppose that means the gears are 3.23?

Will be filling it with oil today. Finally ... Google says fill until oil comes out the fill hole and then top off after driving. Correct?
Click to expand...

Yes, that would indicate 3.23 gears. Good all around gear. Does it have a Sure Grip? Fill to the oil comes out of the fill hole and recheck after driving.
 
Thanks, Dartman.

Well, it has a limited slip from Auburn Gear. That's all I know.
 
I shot a video of the inside of the rear axle. I hope linking to it vill work. I sure hope it's ok to leave that yellow marking goo in there.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ymm1fdkdvqr4f8f/Video 2015-08-30 10 33 09.mov?dl=0

Can anyone make any sense of the "pattern"?

At roughly 0:52 in the video, I show the play (backlash) in the gear. Is that much play ok?

The yoke has some surface rust and I hear this version is a little brittle. Should I invest in something more sturdy?

Brushed off one of the brake calipers. I think it came out pretty nice. They seem to have been black originally. I'm thinking maybe I should paint them Mopar blue now that I've got a can of paint. But maybe that engine paint isn't heat resistant enough.
 

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360DartGT66 said:
I decided to convince myself that it is all good.

Wonder what happened here, though.
Click to expand...

66340SEDAN said:
Yikes, that looks like it got rusty and somebody patched a poor cover over it.....I would look into it more and get that fixed.
Click to expand...

I agree with Keith; I too would check that out.

360DartGT66 said:
I shot a video of the inside of the rear axle. I hope linking to it vill work. I sure hope it's ok to leave that yellow marking goo in there.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ymm1fdkdvqr4f8f/Video 2015-08-30 10 33 09.mov?dl=0

Can anyone make any sense of the "pattern"?

At roughly 0:52 in the video, I show the play (backlash) in the gear. Is that much play ok?

The yoke has some surface rust and I hear this version is a little brittle. Should I invest in something more sturdy?

Brushed off one of the brake calipers. I think it came out pretty nice. They seem to have been black originally. I'm thinking maybe I should paint them Mopar blue now that I've got a can of paint. But maybe that engine paint isn't heat resistant enough.
Click to expand...

That yellow looks like the marking compound used when setting up a rear end ring and pinion.
Before spending money, I'd wire brush the yoke and take a look at it. They don't tend to go bad. Caliper color - ay color you want; it's your car! I will be using the same calipers on a 65 Barracuda my oldest son is getting for his inheritance - painted them cast iron grey.
 
I'm having PST quote me shipping of front and rear sway bar along with a complete front end polygraphite bushing kit. Just for the heck of it. :D
 
Checked my cylinder head casting number. Nothing fancy. 3769974. Vanilla 360 heads. A few years younger than the block, though. Block has date code 11/21/72 and the heads appear to be from '75-76.

I checked Hirsch's home page and their engine enamel is apparentlly heat resistan up to 700 deg F. That's 371 deg C which should be ok even for brake calipers.

I'd sure like to paint them just to get some real progress but since I haven't finally decided on body color I minght end up with calipers in a stupid-looking color.

Does anyone have hands-on experience with spraying metallic paint? I've never done it since I always thought it required special equipment and that it is very difficult to get a good and even result. I've got a decent spray gun.
 

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Ordered som parts today. We'll see what fits when they show up.

Also, I received a little envelope from the land of the free. Thanks Don (65 Dartman)! Now I have a connector for my fuel tank sender unit!

edit: Dang. didn't quite fit. :banghead: Well, I still have plenty of time before I'll be needing it. :coffee2:
 

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Friends,

I'm at Rock Auto looking for brake caliper repairkits. They have four different; Centric, Dorman, Raybestos and AC Delco. Prices go from $7.90 up to $14.61.

Shoud I stay away from any of these brands or are all of them ok?

Oh, a kit is $33 over here ...
 
I personally prefer a name brand like Raybestos or AC Delco over the other two and would rather have an original Mopar kit, but that's just me.
 
Thanks! On a kit like this, the shipping is $25 so I'm better off than buying locally anyway.
But where do I go to buy original mopar? mopar.com doesn't seem to cover anything past 2001 ...
 
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