66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?

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I would not worry about the 741 rear... Those are very strong, especially good in a light car like yours. I have a 741 in my 74 Satellite 340 with 3.91's and it's been a good rear, my friend has a 741 in his 70 Coronet with a 440 and no issues there either...only thing is I think there is a smaller selection of available gear ratios for the 741 aftermarket vs the 742 or 489.
 
I appreciate the input and, yes, I've noticed the difference in available gear ratios. I'm happy with the 741, no question about it. I'm thrilled with the whole drive train, I just want to get it started! Should get my pulley any day now so it's getting close.

I'm not worried, I was just hoping I'd made this great score. :D

I did see an ad here in Sweden for a 489 at $250, yoke, gears and spool were extra. Not too bad, I think.
 
Does anyone feel like educating a poor middle-aged man with no pushrod engine knowledge?

I know my engine ('72 360) has a Purple Shaft 4286630 cam. What I do not know is whether this cam is hydraulic or mechanical. I also don't know whether the lifters are flat-tappet or roller ones.

Can I use hydraulic lifters on a mechanical cam? Can I use ROLLER lifters on a mechanical cam? Can I tell what type of lifters I have without tearing the engine apart?

What are the pro's and con's of the different variants? Maybe there's a good tutorial (camshafts for dummies) somewhere?

Also, on the receipt from the engine builder it says "Keith Black Lite pistons, used". Is this enough info to determine exactly which piston it is? Is there any way of identifying the piston through the spark plug hole?

Thank you,

/rookie
 
Bollocks. My long-awaited crank pulley doesn't fit. #-o First of all, it doesn't line up with the waterpump and alternator pulleys. Secondly, it looks a tad large to me, almost touching the water pump pulley. This pulley is marked 36143-77.

And to add insult to injury (or is it the other way around?) the dust cover I ordered isn't complete...

BUT! I finally have a NOS 727 dipstick with filler tube! Will need an O-ring, though. I can borrow that from the 904-tube that's currently in the hole.

Good thing I got the correct tube, too. The "ADD" level is a good 1/4" ABOVE the level on the 904 stick. :thumbup:
 

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For all of you that have been wondering about whether the dipstick and tube for the 904 fits in a 727, here is the answer.

It will not. Look at the pictures below. The 727 tube is on the left.

The dipsticks are essentially identical in length and the level marks are at the same distance from the top (the handle).

But. The fill tubes are not the same length. The position of the seal is different, but that is not really relevant (except if you try to use a 727 filler tube on a 904 transmission, then the seal might not seal properly). I believe the oil level will be a good half inch too low with the 904 tube on the 727.

Case closed.

Didn't actually install the tube today, though. I decided I should paint it first.
 

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Sorry for spamming my own thread ...

I think the long spring is for the throttle linkage. It even fits pretty well and judging by the marks in the intake manifold, all I need is a bolt. And perhaps a washer.

But what about the other gadgets? What are they?

And in the last picture, I seem to be missing everything choke related. And does the hose fitting on the manifold at the bottom of the last picture go to the brake servo?
 

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That's a bummer on the crank pulley! I would post a Wanted ad for a matched set of crank and water pump pulleys for an early 72 360 engine. Are you looking for a crank pulley with 1 groove (alternator only) or 2 groove ( alternator and power steering) or 3 groove (wither the first 2 plus AC) and I think there might have been a 4 groove pulley as well. The thing is the water pump pulley should be matched to the crank pulley. I did notice when I went back through your thread that you have the cast iron 69 and earlier water pump. That "might" make a difference IDK.

In reviewing your thread I have a question concerning your choice of oil pressure sending units. If you have the stock instrument cluster then you will have an oil pressure idiot light and the sending unit on the motor is not correct. If you have a - for example - a 66 Barrachda instrument cluster with an oil gauge, the the sending unit is correct. If using the idiot light you'll need the other style of sending unit. I am using a 66 Barracuda dash in my 65 wagon but the cluster has been upgraded with digital gauges - the oil and temp senders were supplied by Dakota Digital to match their gauges.

I will look again your thread on my home computer and see if I happen to see anything else. Trying to review on my phone is not the best!
 
Sorry for spamming my own thread ...

I think the long spring is for the throttle linkage. It even fits pretty well and judging by the marks in the intake manifold, all I need is a bolt. And perhaps a washer.

But what about the other gadgets? What are they?

And in the last picture, I seem to be missing everything choke related. And does the hose fitting on the manifold at the bottom of the last picture go to the brake servo?

The bracket is the throttle pedal bracket and bolts towards the driver's side rear of the intake manifold. The next sending unit apgpears to be a sending unit for an oil pressure idiot light and the other one is the neutral safety switch which mounts in the transmission (and is also for back up lights). The large hose on the intake manifold does go to the PB unit. I really need to go to the home computer to go back and forth looking at the pics!:banghead:

EDIT: the throttle bracket looks to be for a 2 barrel carb. For a 4 barrel carb the area with the clamp is orientated to the right to clear the carb. You should also have a bracket that bolts to where you are showing the spring. The spring would then hook to the bracket.
 
And does the hose fitting on the manifold at the bottom of the last picture go to the brake servo?

The large hose on the intake manifold does go to the PB unit. I really need to go to the home computer to go back and forth looking at the pics!:banghead:

Now that I'm on the home computer I can actually see the fitting you are talking about. That would appear to be the fitting for the power brake booster, although normally it is usually in the back on the driver's side.
 
Don,

Ulf actually already promised to send me a pulley so that problem should be out of the way! He'll be sending me some bolts, too.

The water pump lines up nicely with the alternator but the alternator is new so that could of course be an issue. How do I identify the water pump?

I'm planning on using the original instrument cluster with an additional set of gauges. I don't know if there is another hole in the block where I can put the idiot light oil pressure sender.

I guess the neutral switch is from the 904 transmission I no longer have. Or there would be a pretty big hole somewhere, no?
 
Now that I'm on the home computer I can actually see the fitting you are talking about. That would appear to be the fitting for the power brake booster, although normally it is usually in the back on the driver's side.

There's a PB outlet on my carburetor. Am I better off using the one on the intake?
 
Don,

Ulf actually already promised to send me a pulley so that problem should be out of the way! He'll be sending me some bolts, too.

The water pump lines up nicely with the alternator but the alternator is new so that could of course be an issue. How do I identify the water pump?

Ulf knows his stuff; if he sends a 69-earlier crank pulley I bet that will fix your misalignment issue. You might have to elongate one of the crank pulley bolts so it will bolt to the 360 balancer. If the current water pump pulley lines up with the alternator pulley, I'd say you should be OK there and everything should line up when using the 69-earlier crank pulley. I've found that matched sets work the best.

I'm planning on using the original instrument cluster with an additional set of gauges. I don't know if there is another hole in the block where I can put the idiot light oil pressure sender.

Then to make the oil light on the instrument cluster function, you need the correct sender for it. The one on the motor is for a factory gauge and won't work. If the additional gauges are electrical, then the sending unit must be compatible with the oil gauge and usually comes with the gauge set. There is no other hole in the block so to make both work, you'll need to use a Tee. On my wagon I have the digital oil pressure gauge and an idiot light and will use a Tee that both sending units fit.

I guess the neutral switch is from the 904 transmission I no longer have. Or there would be a pretty big hole somewhere, no?

Those neutral safety switches work on either a 904 or 727. Yes you'd have a pretty big hole in the transmission and fluid would definitely run out :D

There's a PB outlet on my carburetor. Am I better off using the one on the intake?

Are you sure the one on the carb is not for the PCV; they are about the same size. I'd use the one on the manifold!
 
Ok, I've PM:ed Ulf about the pulley. Thanks for the whole pre-69 waterpump info. I had no idea.

I knew I shouldn't have bought that pressure sender. Too eager ...

I posted a pic of my carb (actually an Edelbrock clone) in post 19:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970939645&postcount=19

There it says there is a Power Brake port on the rear of the carb. The thing is that I think that one is better placed to route the hose, but there might be another intake vacuum port on the rear, drivers side of the intake. I'll have another look.
 
As long as that port has full vacuum all the time, then you'll be OK. Hopefully you can route the hose so there's no interference with other components. I'll see if I can get some pictures of the 2 barrel and 4 barrel throttle bracket and the bracket for the return spring this evening.
 
As long as that port has full vacuum all the time, then you'll be OK. Hopefully you can route the hose so there's no interference with other components. I'll see if I can get some pictures of the 2 barrel and 4 barrel throttle bracket and the bracket for the return spring this evening.

There is another port by the number 7 intake. See pic. It's very oxidized, not sure why. It's not a water port, is it?

The bracket doesn't fit, just like you said.

Could the little thing on the third picture be the bracket you're talking about?

And I finally figured out how to connect the throttle. The wire! I thought it was the choke wire. :)
 

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That port by mr 7 is the one everyone uses for power brakes ( or in some cases vacuum to the heater core or vacuum gauge using a fitting with a little fitting of course. That little thing in pic Nr 3 is used on the passenger side axle to maintain axle end play after it's set. I see you mocked up the throttle bracket - it would work great with a 2 barrel. A later bracket might solve the problem. As you can tell, I'm back on my phone now.
 
That little clip controls axle play? As in rear axle? Wow.

Since I have a 8 3/4 I suppose I won't be needing it?
 
That little clip controls axle play? As in rear axle? Wow.

Since I have a 8 3/4 I suppose I won't be needing it?
Since you do have an 8.75 yes you will need it after setting the end play on the right axle. If you have green bearings it might not be needed (am unsure about that since I use the tapered axle bearings so need to set the end play
 
Hi Anders - that is the pinion snubber and can be installed at your convenience!

sent from my iPhone

EDIT- yes install it either before or after installing the driveshaft
 
Made some tangible progress today. Gave my tranny oil filler tube and dipstick handle a shot of rust protection. Will be mopar blue eventually.

I also wasted a lot of time trying to renovate the old starter. Changed the motor axle front bushing and tried to replace the brushes. Busted the plastic bad trying to get the copper pole the solenoid mates with out. Some Plastic Padding fiberglass filler and a little trimming with a chisel and I was good to go!

I managed to break it all again when I re-installed the brushes, though. :eek:ops:

Decided to put it all together to clear out my workbench and at least the starter works. For now. Probably won't last very long with that copper stud dangling. #-o
 

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Ulf, you are the champ! Thank You!

Received a package in the mail today. Didn't see it until late because my wife brought it in. Had me confused first as it was a padded USPS envelope mailed in Sweden.

Turns out it was some bolts 65dartcharger (Ulf) sent me. Wonderful! Now I can mount my dust cover, my crank pulley and the fan. And he had a nut I was missing for my driver's side steering joint. :cheers:

My first spray of mopar blue didn't go too well. Got some running and a bug. I think I diluted the paint a little too much but the airgun kept spitting too. And the regulator on my compressor sucks. Need to get a better one. And a filter.

Spent most of this afternoon shuffeling stuff around to move the Dart another two feet back in the garage to make room in front of it. Hung the dash on the wall and the rear seat on my home made shelves. It's getting kinda full in my basement ...

I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
 
Here are a few pictures.

I haven't really swung the doors out and look what I found on the passenger side. Guess I finally have a non-negotiable reason to buy a welder. :D

Some previous owner obviously wanted the **** feel. Or is the dome light originally red? Too bad the paint probably cracked the plastic. Guess I can find a new one pretty cheap and being plastic, the shipping won't be too bad.

The dash is in pretty good shape. The lack of sun here in Sweden kept it pretty much mint. Except for one clipped-off piece of the vent ... :violent1: It looks bent because of the panorama picture. Oh, and that's my NOS radio panel. Not sure I will use it. Anyone interested in buying it?

I found a service card on the inside of the glove compartment. Not filled out, unfortunately.

Also found tags under the seats. No build sheet, though. Are they just production tags for the seats?
 

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And this is how I stored my dash and glass. Rear seat hung on my shelves. The front ones will serve game room duty for the kids. :D
 

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Here are a few pictures.

I haven't really swung the doors out and look what I found on the passenger side. Guess I finally have a non-negotiable reason to buy a welder. :D

Looks like a great reason to buy a welder!

Some previous owner obviously wanted the **** feel. Or is the dome light originally red? Too bad the paint probably cracked the plastic. Guess I can find a new one pretty cheap and being plastic, the shipping won't be too bad.

The dome light lens was not red lol! You're probably correct about a previous owner. Luckily those lenses are pretty much common to a great many Chrysler vehicles so you should be able to locate a nice used one there in Sweden. If you can't, I have at 3 or 4 complete with the aluminum housing that you can have for shipping.

The dash is in pretty good shape. The lack of sun here in Sweden kept it pretty much mint. Except for one clipped-off piece of the vent ... :violent1: It looks bent because of the panorama picture. Oh, and that's my NOS radio panel. Not sure I will use it. Anyone interested in buying it?

Too bad about the little missing pices on the speaker grille! The NOS bezel - Someone with a 66 Dart will want a NOS radio bezel; I'd post it in the For Sale forum!

I found a service card on the inside of the glove compartment. Not filled out, unfortunately.

Also found tags under the seats. No build sheet, though. Are they just production tags for the seats?

99% of those maintenance service cards were never filled out; it's no big deal! Those tags under the seats are as you suspect - production tags for the seats.
 
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