66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?

[360DartGT66]

Looked through the bits and pieces for the car I have in little boxes trying to find a part for a fellow swede-moparian. Guess what I found? The distributor hold-down clamp! Yay! I didn't think I had one.

Started looking for the bolt to secure it but didn't find one so I ended up sorting all the nuts and bolts. Metric, imperial and self-tapping all mixed up in a big pile. Lots of fun. Didn't find one that fits, though. I think it's a 3/8 UNF of some kind. Anyone know?

 

[65 Dartman]

I don't know for sure but nice to see you're making good progress

 

[360DartGT66]

Thanks, Dartman! Yes, the last couple of weeks have been pretty good. Spent a month or so organizing the basement to accomodate all the larger part (bumpers, seats, glass, etc). That work included sawing a hole in a concrete wall to fit a new door.

When we loaded up the car to ship it home in June, the passenger side torsion bar in the trunk derailed. Do I need to remove the trunk lid to get it back in place?

Ideas, anyone?

 

[65 Dartman]

You should be able to install the trunk lid torsion bar without removing the trunk lid - just be careful as it's under a LOT of pressure. You might consider removing both of them and going to the hydrolic lifts. There are several threads on doing this conversion. I have a wagon and will be doing that conversion for the hood.

 

[360DartGT66]

I'll probably do that later on. I've seen threads where both the front and the rear torsion bars were replaced with gas springs and it does seem to make a lot of sense.

Meanwhile, here is where I'm at right now (a bunch of pictures below).

- My set of bling (easier to get a good pic with them upside down).
- My new Proform distributor - now with clamp! No bolt, though ...
Note the oil pressure sender. I want a gauge, not just a lamp.
- My expert carb plumbing.
- My soon-to-be-shortened radiator hoses. You can see I cleaned up that rusted old thermostat housing. Will get my new one tomorrow. With gasket.
- Overview of current status. You'll just have to imagine the air filter. O
- Oh, and I found an oil pressure switch, too. I think?
- And a little pic of my parts stash in the new room. There will be a work bench on the left soon. And no bikes ...

Don't worry, I'll clean the engine wiring/plumbing up. I just need to get the engine running to make sure everything is ok. And to listen to it.

I do have a question for all you experienced gear heads:

- I think I've got the right port for the vacuum advance. Do I?

 

[65 Dartman]

I don't know about the switch you're holding in your hand but the oil pressure sending unit seen on the motor is for a gauge - not for an idiot light.

 

[360DartGT66]

I sure hope so because that's what I ordered. =D

 

[360DartGT66]

Got the new thermostat housing today along with the bypass (?) hose. Removed the hideous rusted "fittings" for the heater hoses and plugged up the holes. I can barely post this but remember, I just want to get the engine running... #-o

Oh, and this is the oil I used. Ok for now?

 

[360DartGT66]

I reached out to the swedish mopar community when I couldn't find my distributor hold-down clamp. One guy sent me one for free. Another guy said the photo the first guy posted was of a speedometer gear clamp and sent me "the right" clamp.

Now I've found my original clamp and got two in the mail.

Best of all, I got a bolt that fits!

So now all I need to get the engine running is the crank pulley.

Does anybaody feel like decoding my VIN plate?

 

[brummett]

Does anybaody feel like decoding my VIN plate?

I'll give it a try. Assuming they used the same ordering codes for export cars as US-built cars...

AB=31 - 273 V8 4bbl
C=5 Maybe code 325 Performance package: 273 V8 4bbl, heavy duty springs/torsion bars, power brakes
a=C Don't know
b=4 Probably code 534 day/night rear view mirror
p=9 could be one of several things:
* 359 Sport package: Woodgrain steering wheel, bolt-on wheel covers, 7x13 whitewall tires
* 479 Disk brake package
* 579 undercoating
SO Number=C3097693: Scheduled build date Mar 9, 1966
TRM=P4X: Premium (bucket) seats, vinyl in black
Paint=PP1 Ruby red, single tone.

Not sure what the last "8" is for. Could be for some sort of accent color, or the upper door frames were painted a different color.

 

[360DartGT66]

Hey, thanks, brummett! Hm. A little more complicated than I thought.

Well, since it is a GT, it does have power brakes and disk brakes so that fits with C=5 code 325 and p=9 code 479.

I believe the roof was originally black, could that be the last 8?

 

[360DartGT66]

And I have a lead on a 4-track crank pulley!

In only need one groove but I'm sure (no?) one of the four will line up with the generator and water pump grooves.

Then all I need is a fan belt. Is there a correct length I can pre-order or do I need to measure when I get the pulley?

 

[toolmanmike]

I'll give it a try. Assuming they used the same ordering codes for export cars as US-built cars...

AB=31 - 273 V8 4bbl
C=5 Maybe code 325 Performance package: 273 V8 4bbl, heavy duty springs/torsion bars, power brakes
a=C Don't know
b=4 Probably code 534 day/night rear view mirror
p=9 could be one of several things:
* 359 Sport package: Woodgrain steering wheel, bolt-on wheel covers, 7x13 whitewall tires
* 479 Disk brake package
* 579 undercoating
SO Number=C3097693: Scheduled build date Mar 9, 1966
TRM=P4X: Premium (bucket) seats, vinyl in black
Paint=PP1 Ruby red, single tone.

Not sure what the last "8" is for. Could be for some sort of accent color, or the upper door frames were painted a different color.

AB31 is a 273- 2 barrel AB32 is a 4 barrel engine. C5 is Torqueflite transmission. b4 is bucket seats. p9 is mirrors (possibly a delete standard outside mirror.)
The early fender tags are a turd to decode. They group so many options in sales code order and for instance the p9 mirror code is grouped in sales codes numbered from 530-659. You have to look through the list and find a mirror code that ends in 9.

 

[360DartGT66]

Good thing I'm not trying to make it fully original ... The swedish registration says 118 kW DIN which translates to 158 or 160 hp depending on your choice of unit system. I can't find a version with that little power anywhere in this list.

Figured I needed a little boost so I hung some trim on the front. Too hot to install the starter anyway.

Edit: Forgot this: Thanks, toolman!

 

[brummett]

I believe the roof was originally black, could that be the last 8?

No idea. I'd expect to see either B or X for black. B is the exterior paint code for black and X is the last character of TRM if the interior is black.

 

[360DartGT66]

... p9 is mirrors (possibly a delete standard outside mirror.) ... You have to look through the list and find a mirror code that ends in 9.

Yes! It just occurred to me that I only have one outside mirror in my box of stuff. That's probably it. Thanks again!

Oh, and you wouldn't happen to have a link to the list you're referring to? rayer

/Anders

 

[toolmanmike]

Yes! It just occurred to me that I only have one outside mirror in my box of stuff. That's probably it. Thanks again!

Oh, and you wouldn't happen to have a link to the list you're referring to? rayer

/Anders

http://galengovier.com/ Click on "products" then "white books".

 

[360DartGT66]

Thanks!

I'd love to get me a couple of them books.

 

[360DartGT66]

Away for the week-end to run a 90 km relay in the middle of Sweden. A fantastic couple of days.

This afternoon I looked into the dislocated trunk torsion bar and I managed to get it back on track without loosing any fingers. I found the reason for the mishap, too. Check the pictures. The passenger side hinge is at an angle. Probably because the hinge pin is bent. This makes the torsion bar end come very close to slipping off the hinge glide surface.

I guess I will have to disassemble the whole thing to find the root cause and straighten whatever it is that is bent.

I also took a closer look at the gas tank. It is in about as good shape as I could ever hope for! The sending unit looks new to me and the inside looks entirely rust free, possibly a little surface rust but I think it is some kind of residue. I'll rinse it out and have another look when it stops raining.

The connector for the sending unit is shot, though. Are they possible to get a hold of?

 

[slotto]

Looks good! I think you are pulling our leg about not doing this before.

 

[65 Dartman]

The connector for the sending unit is shot, though. Are they possible to get a hold of?

The connector looks to be the identical to the temperature sender plug; IIRC the gas wire is blue and the temp send wire is purple. I just pulled a very nice temp sender wire with very nice condition plug from my engine harness. You are welcome to it if you pay the shipping on it - problably not not much since it's so light.

 

[360DartGT66]

Slotto, I wish I was. I'm sooo eager to get the engine running but since I'm having trouble getting my damp hands on a crank pulley, I'm tinkering with the little things to avoid the big (and I'm assuming tedious) job of sanding the whole car to get it ready for paint.

I'm the kind of guy who has problems leaving something almost perfect. Things I know I'm no good at - like for instance replacing sheet metal on old cars - I will not even attempt.

But things I think I can do, I usually end up spending way too much time on. I suspect I will do that on the sanding. I would like to be able to make the car good enough but I fear I might keep sanding until my youngest moves out. She's three...

Dartman, the connector is for a threaded stud and it would sure fit my temperature sensor. I don't know what IIRC means but I won't be restoring this car anywhere near original state so the color of the cable is irrelevant.

If you would consider selling me the connector, I would very much appreciate it. Electrically, it is in great shape since the rubber boot seems to make a very good seal so it makes a lot of sense putting an original connector on.

How much are you asking for it? Since I know international shipping is a PITA, I'd be happy to compensate you not only for the shipping fee itself but also for the trouble.

You wouldn't happen to be sitting on a crank pulley also? And a breather kit? rayer:

 

[65 Dartman]

You are welcome to it if you pay the shipping on it - problably not not much since it's so light.

If you would consider selling me the connector, I would very much appreciate it. Electrically, it is in great shape since the rubber boot seems to make a very good seal so it makes a lot of sense putting an original connector on.

How much are you asking for it? Since I know international shipping is a PITA, I'd be happy to compensate you not only for the shipping fee itself but also for the trouble.

See my comment!

You wouldn't happen to be sitting on a crank pulley also? And a breather kit? rayer:

I will look and see if I have any extra crank pulleys. Can you explain more about the breather kit?

 

[360DartGT66]

It's nothing really. I just don't have any valve cover breathers. I've figured out that I need one with a hose connection for the PCV port on the carb and one that just has a filter.

I can get them over here but I'm on a budget and I figure it could be the kind of thing people have laying around.

Oh, and I don't have power steering or AC so a single groove pulley is all I need but I guess any number of grooves will work on my 360?

 

[65 Dartman]

The connector looks to be the identical to the temperature sender plug; IIRC the gas wire is blue and the temp send wire is purple. I just pulled a very nice temp sender wire with very nice condition plug from my engine harness. You are welcome to it if you pay the shipping on it - problably not not much since it's so light.

Slotto, I wish I was. I'm sooo eager to get the engine running but since I'm having trouble getting my damp hands on a crank pulley, I'm tinkering with the little things to avoid the big (and I'm assuming tedious) job of sanding the whole car to get it ready for paint.

I'm the kind of guy who has problems leaving something almost perfect. Things I know I'm no good at - like for instance replacing sheet metal on old cars - I will not even attempt.

But things I think I can do, I usually end up spending way too much time on. I suspect I will do that on the sanding. I would like to be able to make the car good enough but I fear I might keep sanding until my youngest moves out. She's three...

Dartman, the connector is for a threaded stud and it would sure fit my temperature sensor. I don't know what IIRC means but I won't be restoring this car anywhere near original state so the color of the cable is irrelevant.

If you would consider selling me the connector, I would very much appreciate it. Electrically, it is in great shape since the rubber boot seems to make a very good seal so it makes a lot of sense putting an original connector on.

How much are you asking for it? Since I know international shipping is a PITA, I'd be happy to compensate you not only for the shipping fee itself but also for the trouble.

You wouldn't happen to be sitting on a crank pulley also? And a breather kit? rayer:

It's nothing really. I just don't have any valve cover breathers. I've figured out that I need one with a hose connection for the PCV port on the carb and one that just has a filter.

I can get them over here but I'm on a budget and I figure it could be the kind of thing people have laying around.

Oh, and I don't have power steering or AC so a single groove pulley is all I need but I guess any number of grooves will work on my 360?

Since I'm partial to 65's I have several of the PVC caps and oil filler caps. Both are used with valve covers that have stove pipes. I'll look back through the thread and see if I can find a pic of your engine.