66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?

[360DartGT66]

Won't be working on my car this weekend We went out to the summer house on the west coast for the weekend. I definitely need the rest. My stress levels are up again which makes my depression symptoms act up again.

It's a good thing I have my 3-yo Sofia to brighten my day and this wonderful place to soothe my soul.

 

[65dartcharger]

It's great to have a place to rest at, load the battery and just relax. Then you get the energy back!

Won't be working on my car this weekend We went out to the summer house on the west coast for the weekend. I definitely need the rest. My stress levels are up again which makes my depression symptoms act up again.

It's a good thing I have my 3-yo Sofia to brighten my day and this wonderful place to soothe my soul.

 

[360DartGT66]

So true, Ulf.

Well, I spent most of the weekend not resting but plumbing. We got a new water line and sewage drain (?) installed a couple of years ago and I never got around to cutting the 40 mm hose down to length and buriyng it in the floor. That finally happened on saturday. As well as ripping out some of the unnecessary piping from the old pump we used when we were still using our own well.

Turned into a solid gym session so I'm kind of sore. Oh, and when we came hoome on sunday afternoon I decided to use what was left of the beautiful afternoon to change out the brakes on our new(er) Audi. Did the front before sunset and the rear today.

So now our primary driver has new rotors and pads all around. Feels great.

I'm having a lot of fantasies about using the brakes from a 5-series BMW on my Dart. They are truly amazing brakes and it must be possible to make it work.

Right now, I'm going to the neighbouring city on Alingsås to see if I can find a master cylinder that goes with my brake booster. And perhaps a front sway bar I can adapt to fit my '66.

 

[360DartGT66]

Thought I'd have a look at that derailing trunk hinge now. Never got to the junk yard.

My water pump pulley came out a lot better this time.

And I picked up a pretty decent vice, a cheap set of UNC/UNF taps and dies and imperial Allen keys the other day. Ready to rip!

 

[65 Dartman]

My water pump pulley came out a lot better this time.

That's looking good!

 

[360DartGT66]

Thanks Don, yes, most of it looks good. The surface that mates with the fan is a little uneven but that won't be visible.

I took the trunk lid off and removed the hinges. The trunk lid arms had a terrible clearance/play on/to/with the stud they're hinged on. I found the problem.

I'm guessing the holes used to be round and the stud didn't use to have grooves. :banghead:

Oh well, I have a reason to fix them up since they were largely unpainted. I'll press in a 1/2" bushing of some kind. Should work nicely.

 

[360DartGT66]

I also found a little crack in the sheetmetal holding the hinge stud.

As a result of the disassembly, I'll also be needing two of these. I don't know what they're called so I don't know what to look for.

Can anyone tell me whet these lock "washers" are called?

 

[360DartGT66]

Had a look at the passenger side front suspension, too.

I think I need to replace some stuff ...

 

[65 Dartman]

I also found a little crack in the sheetmetal holding the hinge stud.

easy fix by welding it

As a result of the disassembly, I'll also be needing two of these. I don't know what they're called so I don't know what to look for.

Can anyone tell me whet these lock "washers" are called?

I don't know what they're called either. They are also used to hold the hood hinge to the body and I'll need a pair as well!

Had a look at the passenger side front suspension, too.

I think I need to replace some stuff ...

It looks like the ball joint might have been replaced at some time. I see the castle nut is a later style - the castle nut used originally had three raised sections rather than the 6 currently used.

If it were me, I'd replace upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods and idler/pitman arm for peace of mind.

Edit: From the angle of the photo showing the strut rod, it appears the K frame might be bent or maybe it's just the angle. Looks like someone used a common nut rather than the correct shoulder strut rod nut on it!

2nd Edit: Also replace the upper and lower control arm bushings

 

[360DartGT66]

And the thread on that strut rod is pretty much gone. Probably needs replacing.

 

[360DartGT66]

I looked at the K-member and it looks really nice, actually. Straight and without any signs of corrections. A couple of small dents on the underside from ground contact but nothing that looks serious.

 

[65dartcharger]

I looked at the K-member and it looks really nice, actually. Straight and without any signs of corrections. A couple of small dents on the underside from ground contact but nothing that looks serious.

I have great used strut rods if you need Anders incl the right washers!

 

[360DartGT66]

I have great used strut rods if you need Anders incl the right washers!

I might!

You wouldn't happend to know where to find those lock washer things in an earlier picture?

Here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970984069&postcount=157

 

[65dartcharger]

I think I have them too!

I might!

You wouldn't happend to know where to find those lock washer things in an earlier picture?

Here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970984069&postcount=157

 

[360DartGT66]

Really?! They are for 1/2" axles. I think Don needed some too.

You're starting to sound like a one man parts shop.

I'm going to remove my strut rods to have a look right now. Did you find a pulley, by the way?

 

[360DartGT66]

Wilson0208 posted this video of his Dart's maiden voyage. It happends to sound EXACTLY the way I would like my car to sound eventually.

Enjoy:

[ame]https://youtu.be/Gr4C1lBw0Og[/ame]

 

[360DartGT66]

Cleaned up some stuff this afternoon. This is so rewarding. I love my wire wheel!

Oh, and the Ketchup tip worked great on my tank sending unit. Thanks, Bad Sport!

edit: Added a before picture at the end.

 

[360DartGT66]

Removing the strut rods wasn't quite as easy as I assumed, which I'm sure most people already knew.

Something's definitely not right with the washers - and the bushings need to be replaced. And I do believe the threads on the passenger side rod are beyond saving, Don.

 

[360DartGT66]

... and how do I get the strut rods out? The one on the driver's side looks ok.

 

[65 Dartman]

... and how do I get the strut rods out? The one on the driver's side looks ok.

When you remove the lower control arm, they will slide right out of the K Frame (leave it attached to the lower control arm). Then remove the nut holding them to the lower control arm.

I cleaned up, painted and installed new bushings in my spare set of upper & lower control arms so when I was ready for them, it would be an easy install. Maybe Ulf (or someone in the Swedish Mopar community) might have a spare set you could rebuild. Lower control arms are the same 63-76 unless equipped with a sway bar in which case you would want 65-72's. Uppers are also the same except for the large ball joint 73-76 style. Maybe this will help!

 

[360DartGT66]

Of course it helps!

I suspected I would need to get the lower control arm out. But first I will need to release some tension in the torsion bar, no?

Oh well, there's got to be an instructive video on Youtube somewhere.

I really would like to get my hands on lower control arms for sway bar since I'm planning on installing one. Or two.

Is it a good idea to change to large ball joint upper control arms? Or will I run into spare parts problems?

 

[65 Dartman]

Of course it helps!

I suspected I would need to get the lower control arm out. But first I will need to release some tension in the torsion bar, no?

Yes

Oh well, there's got to be an instructive video on Youtube somewhere.

I really would like to get my hands on lower control arms for sway bar since I'm planning on installing one. Or two.

Is it a good idea to change to large ball joint upper control arms? Or will I run into spare parts problems?

I read someplace someone has the sway bar mounts that can be welded to a LCA that didn't originally have them or you could fabricate them yourself. The small ball joint UCA (which I assume you have) is used with drum or the Kelsey Hayes disc brakes. The large ball joint UCA is used with the 73-76 style disc brakes. Parts are readily available like at Rock Auto.

 

[moparmat2000]

Of course it helps!

I suspected I would need to get the lower control arm out. But first I will need to release some tension in the torsion bar, no?

Oh well, there's got to be an instructive video on Youtube somewhere.

I really would like to get my hands on lower control arms for sway bar since I'm planning on installing one. Or two.

Is it a good idea to change to large ball joint upper control arms? Or will I run into spare parts problems?

Loosen the torsion bar adjuster bolts all the way in the LCAs with car supported on jackstands. Squeeze in both wire ends of the torsion bar retainer clips that are all the way at the back of the torsion bars in the crossmember and remove the clips.

Remove the forward nuts that hold the LCAs into the K frame at the pivot point. Put a block of wood against the front of the LCA and smack the block of wood with a large mallet driving the arm straight back. The LCA should slide back along with the torsion bar. Doing it this way you wont need a torsion bar removal tool.

Additionally when rebuilding your LCAs and pressing in new rubber do not tighten the pivot nut all the way snug when putting the arms back in until the car is level on the ground fully reassembled. Reason is that the rubber bushings have only so much up and down deflection. Tightening the LCA pivot nuts all the way after the car is assembled and at its full ride weight allows the bushings to be positioned in a neutral position (no twist) allowing the full amount of up and down twisting deflection in the rubber.

A rookie move is to install the arms and fully tighten these nuts without knowing what position the arm needs to be in, then the rubber bushing ends up being preloaded or twisted. One good bump, or solid up and down and the vulcanized rubber bushing will rip from the outer and inner shells.

Additionally jacking the car in the front should be done supporting the LCAs and not letting the suspension hang as that overstresses the LCA bushings with exessive twist.

A solution is the polyurethane inserts made by firm feel with new LCA attach pivot pins with built in grease fittings then you dont have to worry about stock LCA bushings and their limitations.

Hope this helps
Matt

 

[360DartGT66]

It sure does help. Thanks Matt!

 

[moparmat2000]

Dont be suprised when you take it apart if the lower bushings fall apart on dissassembly. I purchased the polyurethane LCA bushings with greaseable pins for mine from firm feel. Not cheap at about $100 but the trade off is you wont have to mess with it ever again.