67 Dart 273 swap to 383

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BPTracing

BPTracing

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Ok. Likely too many beers and too many dreams, but..... My 67 Dart GT 273 is having oiling issues, that I haven't had time to diagnose. When all of a sudden, a guy calls me up and wants to sell me a good running low mileage 68 383 4-bbl motor for $600.

I did some quick internet searching, and found 440source has motor mounts and oil pan. now I am thinking, that sounds easy.

Then I find Accurate exhaust lists head pipes for A-body using B-body manifolds?!?!. Does this actually work??
I do have a few sets of b-body hp manifolds....sound too good to be true.

I have a big block 727 in storage....

Then I find something about power steering would be tight, and AC out of the question. Next I see AC "can" be done.

My confusion and indecisiveness kick in and I am left wondering if this really doable? (Keeping my AC and P.S. of course).

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All of that can be done if you have fabrication skills. 67's have a long bushing on the column that needs to be shaved for the exhaust manifolds to fit. Radiators can be bought, and you probably have a 904 trans so your driveshaft needs to be shortened. A/C can be used, and power steering too as they put that in late 68 early 69 383 Darts.
 
HemiSSDart said:
All of that can be done if you have fabrication skills. 67's have a long bushing on the column that needs to be shaved for the exhaust manifolds to fit. Radiators can be bought, and you probably have a 904 trans so your driveshaft needs to be shortened. A/C can be used, and power steering too as they put that in late 68 early 69 383 Darts.
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I just upgraded the rear end to 8-3/4, so I have got the drive shaft shortening process figured out.

Is the steering bushing a thing for the b-body manifolds, or the a-body manifolds, or both?
 
BPTracing said:
I just upgraded the rear end to 8-3/4, so I have got the drive shaft shortening process figured out.

Is the steering bushing a thing for the b-body manifolds, or the a-body manifolds, or both?
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Just the b-body manifolds, I am sure you don't want to spend $1500 on A-Body manifolds...
 
if you meet the following criteria, then i'd say proceed.

1- why? because i wanted to, that's why.
2- i am a masochist
3- i like to spend a lot of money
4- i have fabrication skills and access to a machinist or can do machine work
5- my beer supply is unlimited
 
Just my 2 cents...

Go get a low mile wrecking yard 360.

Put a cam in it and a good 4bbl intake and headers

Swap in the 67 timing cover and cast iron water pump and accessory drives

Iirc the magnum 360s don't have the eccentric for the fuel pump so watch for that too


Everything basically bolts up.

Something about the pilot bushing that changed in the 60s so look into that. I think you can get a torque converter that has the 360 sized snout but will fit the 67 904

Saves 150 to 200 lbs and a **** tone of headache
 
BPTracing said:
Ok. Likely too many beers and too many dreams, but..... My 67 Dart GT 273 is having oiling issues, that I haven't had time to diagnose. When all of a sudden, a guy calls me up and wants to sell me a good running low mileage 68 383 4-bbl motor for $600.

I did some quick internet searching, and found 440source has motor mounts and oil pan. now I am thinking, that sounds easy.

Then I find Accurate exhaust lists head pipes for A-body using B-body manifolds?!?!. Does this actually work??
I do have a few sets of b-body hp manifolds....sound too good to be true.

I have a big block 727 in storage....

Then I find something about power steering would be tight, and AC out of the question. Next I see AC "can" be done.

My confusion and indecisiveness kick in and I am left wondering if this really doable? (Keeping my AC and P.S. of course).

View attachment 1716207624

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Click to expand...

**** the A/C, open your windwings, the little beer/weed hiding vent doors, and step on the fuckin gas!
You will want to get yourself some of these too. I think @hemi71x has some for sale.
www.forabodiesonly.com

[FOR SALE] - **EMBLEMS** 383 FOUR BARREL, 383 MAGNUM, 440 MAGNUM

I am listing some more emblems out of my 40 + year collection, that i would like to find good new homes for them to go to. 383 FOUR BARREL Emblems. #2579804 (Used) $40.00 each. 383 MAGNUM Emblems. #3444957 These are OEM NOS, Chrysler Parts Depot new. $70.00 each. 440 MAGNUM Emblems. #2785468...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com

You may want to look for some Schumacher tri-y headers.

MANUAL STEERING

Your one stop MOPAR shop for steering & suspension parts. We are a small family-owned shop whose specialty is your classic Dodge, Plymouth or Chrysler. Located in the great Pacific North-West, we carry parts for all A, B, C, E, F, M & J-body chassis. Our products are made in house with the...
firmfeel.com

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The biggest question is, do you have the time to spend, not the time you think it is going to take, but probably 2, 3, or 4 times the amount of time you think it will take. In the end if you want ot do it, go for it.
 
I’m with just about everyone here- go for it. Like they say (whom ever “everyone is) nothing ventured nothing gained.
Syleng1
 
Project creep, but with the engine out, might consider swapping the K frame due to the one year only idler arm. Also, what do you have for brakes?
 
With those b bodies manifolds it is a TIGHT fit. I ran them when I broke in the 383 in my dart (it’s an original big block car). They hit the firewall.

Everything you said can be done to swap in a big block. You didn’t mention if your car was column shifted or had a console. There is more massaging to get the column linkages to work.

I know in my car (big block k frame and reproduction big block motor mounts) I needed to use the federal (or a trw) power steering pump due to where the connections are located. But I am also running a stock power steering system in my 67
 
junkyardhero said:
if you meet the following criteria, then i'd say proceed.

1- why? because i wanted to, that's why.
2- i am a masochist
3- i like to spend a lot of money
4- i have fabrication skills and access to a machinist or can do machine work
5- my beer supply is unlimited
Click to expand...
LOL

1. Gotta admit a big block in a Dart sounds way cool!
2. I am known for poor decisions!
3. Love to spend money! Especially someone else's money!! That is one of the reasons I love my "Crew Chief" job!!
4. I have sawzall, cut off wheel, welder, and big hammers!
5. I don't run out of beer.
 
wawarnick said:
The biggest question is, do you have the time to spend, not the time you think it is going to take, but probably 2, 3, or 4 times the amount of time you think it will take. In the end if you want ot do it, go for it.
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Good point. I never have time, that is why my GTX isnt done and I had to buy the Dart to play with! Lol. My dreams and my schedule never seem to coincide.

SIX225 said:
Project creep, but with the engine out, might consider swapping the K frame due to the one year only idler arm. Also, what do you have for brakes?
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Project creep is definitely an issue! Might as well patch the inner fender around the battery and repaint the engine compartment, but then the rest of the car would need paint to look as good as the engine.....


I just finished upgrading the brakes to power disk, and swapped out the 7-1/4 for 8-3/4. So now I have big bolt pattern and 15" wheels.

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carfreak6970 said:
With those b bodies manifolds it is a TIGHT fit. I ran them when I broke in the 383 in my dart (it’s an original big block car). They hit the firewall.

Everything you said can be done to swap in a big block. You didn’t mention if your car was column shifted or had a console. There is more massaging to get the column linkages to work.

I know in my car (big block k frame and reproduction big block motor mounts) I needed to use the federal (or a trw) power steering pump due to where the connections are located. But I am also running a stock power steering system in my 67
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Thank you for that info. While I am sure I "can" do it, it is great to hear from those who "have" done it! The car is a console shift. But the need to firewall modification is new info for me.

Ottmundr said:
F' the A/C, open your windwings, the little beer/weed hiding vent doors, and step on the f'n gas!
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If this was a hot rod and I still lived in IL, maybe. But here in the bayou south of New Orleans, AC is needed if you want to drive more than just Dec and Jan.. If nothing else, you need to keep the windows up or risk a blood transfusion due to the mosquitoes!


Dana67Dart said:
Just my 2 cents...

Go get a low mile wrecking yard 360.
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And a good voice of reason! I think I can find a rebuilt long block 318/360 for about $2500, which would be the "easy" route.

Thanks for all the replies! I may have to sleep on this 383 idea a little more...at least until I see if the 273 actually has big enough issues to need replacment.

Scott
 
BPTracing said:
Thank you for that info. While I am sure I "can" do it, it is great to hear from those who "have" done it! The car is a console shift. But the need to firewall modification is new info for me.

Scott
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From what I read people didnt need to modify the firewall. it is just in my case the drivers side manifold did hit the fire wall. Now, that could be because I was using a 67 big block K member which could be different than the 68-69 K members or normal factory tolerances or the casting number of the B body HP manifold I used is a little different from some other ones.

I always planned on running headers. I have the TTI long tube ones and I had to shim the engine up so it would "clear" the factory steering gear. I still dont think I have enough room there but getting the headers on is a PAIN with the engine in the car. If the header ever needs to come out I would probably use the Borgeson steering gear since it is smaller and would give more clearance. Regardless, it would save you a ton of head aches if you had the engine and exhaust manifolds/headers on the K frame and dropped the body on top of them.
 
Anything is possible says mr sawzall. The cool factor is over the top. Just be aware it won’t handle nimble like your 273.
 
Schumacher headers, schumacher mounts, accurate exhaust 'collector' pipes, borgeson power steering or manual box. My 440 was much easier to do than people had led me to believe and it was a blast doing it. Clears stock hood with drop base. 383 will be less tight i think? Easily clear the hood with a dual plane.

My 440 i would bet is lighter than the factory 340 that came in it, I have aluminum heads, water pump, water pump housing and dual plane intake. Sits the same as it would with full iron small block.

Big block A bodies are cool!
 
Don't let the small block guy's talk you out of it, there is nothing like a big block A-body.
 
Don't let the BB guys tell you it's better

"The 3.79 stroke with a .040 overbore is 383 cubic inches. The early 360 blocks (71 to 73) will accept an oversize of .080. This is due to the fact that the 340 and 360 shared the production tooling until the demise of the 340 in 1973. The standard bore size of the 340 was 4.040 inches and the 360 was 4.000. You can overbore the 360 to the 4.040 size and still have the material to go to a .040 over 340, or 4.080 inches. There have been successful bore jobs to 4.100 on the early blocks. That would be a .060 over 340"


so you can have a small block 383 with a similar stroke and piston size.

Why wouldn't you!


360 stroker motors.
 
On my 4th Big block A body project (71 Demon this time) I've only done 440s and going with a 383 this time. I don't use ac or p/s in any.. I hate the leaks typically from pumps or boxes. Schumacher mounts and tri-y headers. Manual steering and manual disc brakes. They're a handful of fun. If you have the 67 k member, I'd definitely replace it with a 68 on up ( depending on what style mounts you prefer) oh, no one mentioned that you also need a big block 727 transmission. That 904 won't bolt up. Good luck!

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You only ever have to take a 383 A-body for a spin but one time, to appreciate
4.25x3.375 =383
You might need my 383 K-member, the engine brackets, and T-bars. and those oh-so cool 383 hood call outs.
 
ch1ll said:
Anything is possible says mr sawzall. The cool factor is over the top. Just be aware it won’t handle nimble like your 273.
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alloy heads, alloy intake, Dcr around 9.0 or better, alloy wheels, battery-in-trunk, bigger T-bars and springs, Rally shocks all 'round, and a Double-Pumper will make it all better.
But;
with factory tubs barely allowing 255s, on the street, you might as well put a 2bbl on it, at least until you get the traction issues sorted..
I've only ever passengered in two different 383 4bbl cars, and I will never forget either of them.
 
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