67 Dart Build Triangulated 4 link & Mini Tub

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Thanks guys! It took alot to get it where it is and I have a long road to go.

crackedback A little hillbilly engineering trick for brake line bending. I use 1/4" and 3/8" sockets held in a vise to make bends. Works really well.

That thing looks BAD! Nice work!

How's it bounce on the rear.
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I really only bought the kit for the flaring tools. I did some Hillbilly bending myself on this one. For the big radius I use a 3rd member case I had laying around and to tell you the truth I used my hand alot to fine tune it. Good Idea with the sockets. We use to make Jigs at work on metal sheets with Steel Pegs welded onto them. Stick the metal and pull it around to get it how you need.

I do have another adjustment down on the lower shock bracket that will give me another 1" of travel. I will check it out when all the weight is on it and lower it if needed.

I have the springs just setting in there for now until I get the engine and trans in, then I will play with it. Buttttttttt it does bounce really well. I was pushing on it and it instantly pops right back up and feels smooth in the process. Kinda feels like my buggy use to with the King Coil overs on it.
 
I just tried to order my DROP brake line from TSMMFG.COM who I got the rear brake kit from. The guy is trippin trying to tell me that on a MOPAR the Drop line is PRESSED into the distribution block on the housing, I told him well thats not true I have both a 70 and a 67 Dart and both of them DO NOT PRESS IN. He wanted to argue with me so I will be ordering it from INLINE TUBE instead.
 
Mad Dart said:
I just tried to order my DROP brake line from TSMMFG.COM who I got the rear brake kit from. The guy is trippin trying to tell me that on a MOPAR the Drop line is PRESSED into the distribution block on the housing, I told him well thats not true I have both a 70 and a 67 Dart and both of them DO NOT PRESS IN. He wanted to argue with me so I will be ordering it from INLINE TUBE instead.
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He probably never bothered checking, either. Some people should never work with customers.
 
Hey Mad Dart, Amazing work your doing on you Dart, love how the tires tuck up there!!!!!!! You definately have alot of skill, knowledge and patience, nice work.


Butch
 
Wow!!! Looks good man!!! TERRIFIC job man!!! Can't wait to see it in person!!!!!!!
 
I ordered my Parking brake cables from Controlcables.com I will have them by Tuesday next week. Very helpful guys, I almost ordered the wrong end on the caliper side but they guy caught it and made the correction. $35.00 Each + shipping.

I also ordered the Drop Line in braided stainless from inlinetube.com $35.00 + shipping and it should be here on Tuesday also.

I needed some clips to hold the rear housing brake lines to the 3rd member studs. I found what was needed at ACE HARDWARE 1/4" clips with 3/8" holes in them that have a protective nylon coating on them. They should work out nice. $4.50 for a bag with 7pcs.
 
Mad Dart said:
I am going to dump the exhaust at the axle. If you are deleting your fuel tank you can do whatever you want.

When narrowing the rearend and moving the Lower Links in 4 or so inches for the MINI TUB and bigger tires, you will loose the ability to run full exhaust out the back of the car. You can run the exhaust all the way to the bumper if you don't mini tub or do a relocation of the lower link bars.
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Regarding running the exhaust out to the bumper.
- It is possible, you just have to get crafty.

Here is a pic of a nice 71 Demon equipped with the streetlynx rear suspension, a Dana 60, and exhaust to the bumper.
The exhaust fits very nicely in the space vacated by the leaf springs.

http://www.gforcedesignconcepts.com/gallery/DEMON?page=1

IMG_6447.jpg
IMG_6446.jpg
IMG_6452.jpg
 
topbrent said:
Regarding running the exhaust out to the bumper.
- It is possible, you just have to get crafty.

Here is a pic of a nice 71 Demon equipped with the streetlynx rear suspension, a Dana 60, and exhaust to the bumper.
The exhaust fits very nicely in the space vacated by the leaf springs.

http://www.gforcedesignconcepts.com/gallery/DEMON?page=1

IMG_6447.jpg
IMG_6446.jpg
IMG_6452.jpg
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Well I never even thought to run it like that, that looks BAD ***! You of course would need to make sure you ran the exhaust at FULL DROOP of the suspension because depending on what size tire you are running if you would be able to get them out with it drooped and the axle would smack the exhaust before it happened, BUTTTTT I guess you could just loosen the exhaust up also or disconnect the hangers and lower it down, HECK why not!! I know the DEMON has the ability to put a bigger tire under it without even doing a minitub.

On mine I need to disconnect the shock at the UPPER shock mount so my suspension will droop enough to get the tires out. I would need to be very careful to make sure the exhaust was down enough below the axle to do so or like mentioned above Drop the exhaust hangers to get it done!

The original question that was posted was could the TTI Pre Bent exhaust go over the the axle in the stock location with the way that I have mine set up, the answer would be no unless the gas tank was moved.
 
I started on the 8 pt Roll Bar today. I will have some pictures up tomorrow. I had to fabricate my own main hoop plates. The 6x6 plates would not do the trick. I got the main hoop tacked in and the rear bars set in place for cutting hopefully tomorrow. I Like the way that it looks, kind of sets the tires off for some weird reason, to me anyway.

The Rear bars that go into the trunk area go thru the package tray and the speaker holes. On the Driver's side the rear attachment to the trunk floor is getting in the way of the fuel filler neck. I will hopefully be able to fabricate a new filler neck. If anybody has pics of the same situation with the filler neck fabricated and done.....................Post them bad boys!
 
Guess I haven't been paying attention! missed your build till I stumbled on to it today. Nice job on the Dart that thing looks cool just like that. Don't need no paint just drop in the engine and go.
 
MD I just got my rear trunk bars in today. And mine don't interfear with the filler neck. Unless it's way different you should not have a problem. How far back do your bars go? Mine are all the way back to the rear of the car. And are a good 6-8 inches from the filler neck. My trunk bars ended up being about 80 inches long. How long are yours? I'll see if I can get you a pic of them in the morning.
 
03ramit1 said:
MD I just got my rear trunk bars in today. And mine don't interfear with the filler neck. Unless it's way different you should not have a problem. How far back do your bars go? Mine are all the way back to the rear of the car. And are a good 6-8 inches from the filler neck. My trunk bars ended up being about 80 inches long. How long are yours? I'll see if I can get you a pic of them in the morning.
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I am keeping my back seat in and my rear bars hug the ceiling all the way to the rear window and then drop thru the package tray speaker holes.

Post some pics of yours when you can, I would like to see your progress!
 
ok I can see how you did it now. Mine run straight off the main hoop, through the speaker holes and back to the rear. And yeah I'll get some pics up for you tomarrow. I don't know when though as I have to fix a 52 ford flathead in the morning, and go get dinner for my kids birthday party tomarrow. I will sneek in a few min to upload pics though. :)
 
Louis, by your pictures you haven't fish mouthed the bars to the main hoop and cut the tube end angle to match the trunk floor plates yet. These two things will rotate your package tray bars slightly and the angle cut will drop the rear roughly 3/4" and move the bar/floor contact point forward a bit so it may clear your fill tube (lift the front, lower the rear) It may also make your bars hit the speaker cutout at the front. Hope you understand what I mean. Recommend you cut your fish mouth first then fit the tube ends to the floor. You may have to adjust where you weld in your floor plates.
 
It's hard to tell from the pic, but does the bar hit the filler tube, or just the plate? In the pics it looks like the plate, in which case, you could just notch it a little. If it's the bar, you might need to modify the filler tube, depending on how much it interferes. Are you using a kit for the cage, or is it all home fabbed?
 
Yes, I understand what you mean. I also noticed I may have those bars in backwards. I will be doing everything I can to clear the filler neck for sure. Thanks for the advise!
 
Fishy made a good point that I didn't notice from the pics. If it's the plate just notch it. I don't think a safety inspector would give you grief over that. I don't know how much experience you have doing roll cages and don't want to insult your intelligence with unwanted advice. I used to bend up custom cages from 20' sticks for a living and we TIG welded everything. The fit had to be real tight so it was a trim & fit, trim & fit ordeal every time.

I need to go back and check your pictures for a minute.
 
One thing you guys need to know is the Filler neck is set on top of the 6x6 Plate LOOSE, it is directly in the rear tube for sure the way that it is now. This is my first cage but I have been fabricating stuff for years. I will get it and I do understand it is a Cut and fit procedure, I dont expect it to go on the first try.


I don't have Hours upon hours in a row to work on my project. If I did it would be Finished already. I only have 2 hours in the cage so far, give me some time and I WILL figure it out for damn sure!

Momma didn't raise no PUNK!:-D
 
Yeah I had a brain fart for a minute. Some how erased my whole post and had to start over again.
If I remember right you are using a Morrison kit and wanted to keep the rear seat. It's been a long time since I installed a Morrison kit. One leg should be longer than the other. What I can't remember is the angle of the bend. If the bend is not 45 degrees you can get it to fit differently (where the bar will contact the trunk floor, how closely it will follow the roof/window line and how well it goes through the speaker hole) by flipping it around and playing with the length of the leg at the roof line. You just have to mess around with it to get it to fit the way you like it. I think it looks great the way you have it now and your doing a great job by the way.
 
hey man, when it comes to being a 6x6 plate have you thought about just making it a 6x8 or 6x10, then you could notch it arroung the filler tube but yet you would retain the surface area and weld contact needed for the floor to plate joint. On the filler neck if it's interfearing with the trunk bar itself you could possibly notch the filler neck to clear the tube. It appears you would need minimal clearancing to make it work. I'll post a few pics up for you tomarrow at lunch time. I can't get my computer to link up with my phone. So I'll post them from work for you.
 
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