67 Dart Build Triangulated 4 link & Mini Tub

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Yes I have thought about a bigger plate. I did that on the main tube. The ones it came with would not work so I made my own. 6x9 is what I made them. I just don't want to get popped by tech inspection is all.

Yes it is a Morrison Kit, I need to flip the bars around because when If I made the cut to follow the trunk line the way they are the bar would be TOO far from the roof line. The plan is to flip them around and try and keep it as close to the roof as possible.
 
do you know a track tech inspector at your local track? I am having mine looked at befor I finish weld it. It's easier to make changes in the building stage, rather than waiting until that first trip to the track. The other option is to trailer it down to the track and let them look at it before you finish weld it
 
My buddy knows an inspector. He usually comes to his house and stamps the chassis that he builds at his shop on the spot. I will try and go that route for sure.
 
yeah the guy that fills my nitrous is the sr tech inspector at our track, and he will be looking at it here in about 2 weeks.

not wanting to hijack your thread but here are a few pics of my cage so far. i just realized o dont have any pics of it from the trunk.....
 
i know the wheel tubs are not done yet, but they cannot be completed untill i can get tires under the car. they will be here soon, they shipped from hoosier on thursday (or so im told) the main hoop is just tacked in and so are both truck bars now, (but dont have any pics from the trunk side) once we get the rest of it tacked in we will have it looked at and then we will fully weld it in.
 
the bar going from the main hoop allong the roofline down the a pillar and to the floor was a pain in the tail. we spent about 6-7 hours getting it bent up, and we still need to trim and fit it in the car. nothing like bending tubing multiple angles and triing to get it right the first time. (keep in mind this is my first fab project as well as my first cage)
 
man they look nice I'll have to hit you up when the time comes for mine. Keep up the good work.
 
03ramit1 said:
the bar going from the main hoop allong the roofline down the a pillar and to the floor was a pain in the tail. we spent about 6-7 hours getting it bent up, and we still need to trim and fit it in the car. nothing like bending tubing multiple angles and triing to get it right the first time. (keep in mind this is my first fab project as well as my first cage)
Click to expand...

Right on go after it! Looks like it will work out fine.

I set my main hoop so the Rear Seat will still go in. It looks like you are deleting yours.

I have also been checking out the front bars that go to the KICK PANEL area. You need to make sure that bar don't hit your armrest at the door panel so the it will actually close!
 
yeah I never intended to have a back seat. I knew I was going to build a 2 seater befor I knew what car I was going to build. And I am building sheet metal door pannels so the arm rests will be moveable that is if I even put them in. But thanks for the heads up.
 
Not insinuating anything by this, but I wanted to check and make sure you guys have a NHRA rule book and have got up to speed on their cage requirements, right? Just wanted to save you some work even before you have them looked at like you plan. I've seen real lax tech inspectors and real nit picky ones too. For your first cages you guys are both doing a bang up job!
 
yeah I have the 2010 rule book, and we have not even cut a piece of tubing without reading it. And it's usually read 3 or 4 times to make sure we understand everything before we start the tube. Like the main hoop must be behind the drivers head no more than 6 inches. The hoop must be 4in above the drivers head or within 1in of the roof if 4in cannot be maintained. The 6x6 plate for the main hoop must connect to the factory rocker box. And can be bolted or welded to the floor. But it must follow to contore of the floor. The bars going into the trunk need to be set up no less than 30 degrees from vertical. And they have requirements on tubing size vs how long the bars can be as well. My cage is 1 and 3/4 tubing witch is slihtly larger than the largest size listed but the mandrel we have for the tubing bender is that size so we went with it.
 
That was what I was trying to get at. There is many specifications on a cage that have to be met and the faster you go the more the techs will hold your feet to the fire to comply. Just wanted to make sure your guys had looked over the rule book to save you any nasty surprises like having to redo the main hoop. Doh!
 
Hey Mad Dart I now it was posted in here somewhere but whaat was your upper arm length? And how much of an angle did you put the bars on in relation to the axle?
 
The upper bars are 10.25 CL to CL the lower bars are 21.25 CL to CL.

At ride height if I remember correctly the lower bars worked out to be at 4* and the uppers are at 2.7*, the pinion angle holds 0-zero or wherever I set it at more than thru full droop and bottoming of the suspension. It will never see full droop on the street but may see bottom when I launch against the transbrake at 5k..........haaaaaaa :toothy10:
 
Ok I'm at about the same length But I'm at about 4* and 7* respectively and my pinion angle does change 2* as the rear end moves up to line up with the driveline as the rear compresses. What is your shock length? I was looking at shocks with 5" of travel and running 250 lbs springs. I won't be going through the stress of drag racing though. Also did you notice the lowers were offset to one side in your car? My frame rails put my lowers at different points on the housing. I spoke to several people reguarding this and they say as long as they are straight back and as long as my uppers are the same length apart on the housing it shouldn't affect handling.
 
On mine the lower bars are not off center to my knowledge. My brackets on the housing are all in the same spots. At least they measure that way. Your upper brackets on the housing may be causing the pinion to move if they are set too far forward or too far back the pinion angle will move.

I used 130lb springs in the rear and I just have them sitting in there not tightened up with a load on them, 250 will probably be too much spring in my opinion.
 
Well I measured 5 times to be sure and my frame rails were 1 1/2 inches to the passenger side so that translatedto the lower mounts being to one side
 
johnparts said:
Well I measured 5 times to be sure and my frame rails were 1 1/2 inches to the passenger side so that translatedto the lower mounts being to one side
Click to expand...

So the 3rd member is off center is what you are saying?

I measured everything off of the axle flanges before I had it shortened and set all my brackets off of the flanges. So I could see the 3rd member off by that much being that the mopar drivetrain sets to the passenger side. Remember all my measurements were taken off of the Flange and I never checked the 3rd member if it was center or not.

Here are the shocks I used.

130lb springs.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CMB-15-0058/
 
Yeah those were what I was looking at But I need a heavy rate spring because I cant take a chance of my tires hitting my tubs. The 20's are huge in the wheel well.
 
Mad Dart said:
So the 3rd member is off center is what you are saying?

I measured everything off of the axle flanges before I had it shortened and set all my brackets off of the flanges. So I could see the 3rd member off by that much being that the mopar drivetrain sets to the passenger side. Remember all my measurements were taken off of the Flange and I never checked the 3rd member if it was center or not.

Here are the shocks I used.

130lb springs.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CMB-15-0058/
Click to expand...
I took all my measurements off of pinion centerline.
 
I basically set up the rear end so my pinion was centered in the trans tunnel and did all my measuremtns from that point and my frame rails I simply did the lower forward mount and made my bars then attached them to the housing running straight back from where they mounted in the frame. I made sure they were straight in the frame and pointed doirectly back from the centerline of the car But my drivers side is closer to the center then my passenger side.
 
when I pulled the housing back out to finish weld the mounting tabs I noticed the offset so I measured the rails from the centerline of the car and sure enough the drivers side rail is inboard 1.5 inches from the rocker.
 
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