What did the rear brake setup cost?
Are you planning on running tail pipes?
Do you think tail pipes could be ran?No Gunna dump it at the axle on this one!
Do you think tail pipes could be ran?
This is where I got BUSTED.......she came down in her pajamas to let me have it!!!!!!!!haaaaaaa:-D
We have a dance competition with the girls in 2 hours, how long do you need to be down here, blah blah blah............so I packed it up with my tail between my legs!!!
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Do you think tail pipes could be ran?
And can anyone chime in and attest to the street ride and handling abilites of this setup?
I remember, I think :dontknow: that with Bills suspension mid 10's or so was thought to be the limit for it?i run the street lynx from RMS. pretty much the same thing. it ride great and handles incredibly.
I remember, I think :dontknow: that with Bills suspension mid 10's or so was thought to be the limit for it?
Heres a Caltrac guy! Gotta say the 4 liink looks very impressive. So did you build this 4 link setup or order it? My puter is being a real ***** and I dont dare go back and view the first page again to find out. I also wanted to ask what you are going to use for coil overs.
And can anyone chime in and attest to the street ride and handling abilites of this setup?
I had it custom cut. I will be using Strange Shocks and QA1 Springs.
FYI........If you wanted to set it up exactly like the streetlynx system same size tubes rod end adjustable on 1 side only you will save another $200.00 from what I have into mine. So you would have approximately $400.00 into it with all brackets shock tower and material for the spring boxes. The bigger tubes and rod ends are more $$ plus I got 4 extra rod ends LH-RH to twist the tube and adjust without taking the rod's off.
Ha Ha. Two nights ago I had to do the same thing. Two hours of watching my daughter and other kids figure skate. Wahoo! I would rather have a root canal, but it made my daughter happy.
yea thats what he says.. into the 10's is th elimit i believe. it was really designed more to handle then the drag strip. but it worked well on the track for me. dropped my 60' time from 1.69 to a 1.63 with no other changes. may have been able to get more out of it but i didn't really feel like fine tuning for the track because my car is more a street car.
Glad to see your tackling this on your own!Your work looks great and you should beable to fly through the minitub.It,s quicker when working with metal,not rust LOL.Keep up the good work,if I can help in anyway(with pics)from my minitub?Just PM.8)
Hey Joe,
Is there a reason why they say it is only good til the 10's? Not that I will be going any quicker than that.
I was hoping that the Bigger Tubes and Rod Ends would help if I stepped up the power to 7-800hp+ or so someday. One thing I did do is use a 1/4" wall thickness on the Shock Tower. My feeling is with MAX power applied that would be the weakest link in the system. I feel that it will try and RIP the upper link bar tabs right off the Shock tower. That is why I will be doing gusset's on those connections wrapping them around the Shock Tower fully welding up and around the tower, also on each end of the shock tower along the bracket that I made to tie to the frame rails to strengthen it up even more. I will also add them on all the bracket tabs that hold the link to the axle. This way if the car ever pitches sideways the gusset's will add more strength in those areas.
i'm sure it has nothing to do with the strength of the stuff. more the design. the RMS stuff is/was designed more for cornering then the drag strip. the drag strip was just an added bonus. i think at the 10 second mark you may be better off with a true 4 link or ladder bars if going through all the trouble building the suspension. give bill a call, i'm sure he will explain it better then i ever could.