67 Dart Post Project

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Are you using a mig or a tig welder? Mig -- especially without a gas setup -- can introduce a lot of air which heats up during the powder cure and can blow out through the powder. The results can be felt to the touch and up close look like a bunch of little teeny volcanoes. When you drop it off, make sure you ask them to thoroughly outgas it. If they don't know what you're talking about, please take it somewhere else.

It's a friend of mine and he does it for free so i'm not gonna complain if it's not perfect. :happy8:
 
My buddy dropped of the freshly powder coated rear end yesterday.... beautiful. Almost a shame to hide it under the car. Put in the new seals and bolted her in. Going to be machining the adapters to fit the 11" brakes on later this week. In the last picture you can see the POR 15 that I've been applying to the underside of the car. That stuff is amazing. Just keep it off your skin cause it's very hard to wash off. LOL

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Ordered the parts to finish up the 408 so it can go to Brian's dyno soon. Doug's headers willl be here on Monday.

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Ordered the parts to finish up the 408 so it can go to Brian's dyno soon. Doug's headers willl be here on Monday.

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I think that damper is the same one they sent to me that was wrong. You need the Skinnier one like this......

http://www.prwonlinestore.com/sfi181approvedracingandperformancesteelvibrationdamper-2431801.aspx

Yours is this one....... The pulleys etc will not line up correctly.

http://www.prwonlinestore.com/sfi181approvedracingandperformancesteelvibrationdamper-2431800.aspx

Also be sure to use a Cork Gasket with those valve covers. Put a straight edge on them to make sure they aren't twisted. I had a MAJOR leak on Brians
Dyno during cam break in. Had to swap Valve Covers.

Just a heads up...... Looking good!
 
If I'm using the aluminum water pump (which i heard is longer than the iron one) with a pulley for a cast iron pump, do you think it will work? I don't have any pulleys yet so I can get whatever I need.....
 
If I'm using the aluminum water pump (which i heard is longer than the iron one) with a pulley for a cast iron pump, do you think it will work? I don't have any pulleys yet so I can get whatever I need.....

I have never had or seen an Iron Water Pump so I don't know.

I always run the aftermarket water pumps and the thin damper usually lines up perfect.

I did use a different water pump by PRW on the TT engine with the polished Damper only because they were out of the black one. I also had to make a crank spacer cause the snout was .125 too short to clear the cover so I guess either way there will be issues. :D
 
Well Mad Dart was right about the harmonic balancer. There's no way it will work unless I grind the entire timing boss off of the timing cover..... The water pump won't work either because my Mopar performance fuel pump is too big. Guess I'll need one with a driver's side input. My Doug's headers came today so that makes me feel a little better.

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I have never had or seen an Iron Water Pump so I don't know.

I always run the aftermarket water pumps and the thin damper usually lines up perfect.

I did use a different water pump by PRW on the TT engine with the polished Damper only because they were out of the black one. I also had to make a crank spacer cause the snout was .125 too short to clear the cover so I guess either way there will be issues. :D

Pic of it installed.


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Pictures like that are intimidating my poor N/A 408....
 
Well Mad Dart was right about the harmonic balancer. There's no way it will work unless I grind the entire timing boss off of the timing cover..... The water pump won't work either because my Mopar performance fuel pump is too big. Guess I'll need one with a driver's side input. My Doug's headers came today so that makes me feel a little better.

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Try clocking the Fuel pump that should help. Don't know of a water pump with drivers side dump. Also you may need to grind on the bolt or the pump that is right behind where the lower hose goes on so the water pump will set flush against the cover and gasket. I almost need to do that 100% of the time. Just an FYI
 
I considered clocking the fuel pump and I still may. I can tell that the radiator hose is still going to hit the pump but would probably be ok. I bolted the headers on just to see how they look. The bolts that came with are 3/8 and my RHS heads are 5/16.... I like the thought of the larger bolts so I might drill and tap the heads to 3/8.
 
any reason you can't chop 2 or 3 inches off the water pump snorkus?....just wonderin'
 
Hey Maddart 67 and earlier smallblocks had a cast iron left side exit waterpump. It requires it's own timing cover and harmonic balancer.
 
I thought about that too. I would probably weld a bead on the new edge to help hold the hose on. Too bad there's no way to make the balancer work. I got a feeling they are gina make it difficult to return. Called them once already with no luck
 
Hey Maddart 67 and earlier smallblocks had a cast iron left side exit waterpump. It requires it's own timing cover and harmonic balancer.

I actually have one of these pumps but its pretty well used. Really want to use a HV aluminum pump. I'll make it work
 
how about sectioning it?....take a couple inches out of the middle...then shove the hose on far enough to cover the modification
 
Hey Maddart 67 and earlier smallblocks had a cast iron left side exit waterpump. It requires it's own timing cover and harmonic balancer.

I have a couple of the timing covers, just haven't worked on any V8 67 & earlier engines to know that but now I do!
 
Also be sure to use a Cork Gasket with those valve covers. Put a straight edge on them to make sure they aren't twisted. I had a MAJOR leak on Brians
Dyno during cam break in. Had to swap Valve Covers.

Just a heads up...... Looking good!

Same here on the cork gasket. It's the only way that I could keep mine from leaking. I also had to clearance mine a little to clear the intake.
 
I didn't have to clearance at all but I did use the three layer cork gasket with the metal center. I ran a feeler gauge around it afterwards and couldn't find any gaps
 
I'll bet if you did the cuttin'....you could find someone whose an expert..to put it back together for minimium $$$$ or pacos
 
There's actually a pro where I work. I'm sure a 12 pack is all it would take to earn his cooperation..
 
helpful tip.......give him the brew AFTER he's done welding...of course he could probably out do a lot of us chitfaced...
 
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