67 twin turbo dart

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Got the drivers side mount painted and in with seat. Made the passenger side but my drill bit went dull lol so will take it to work and finish drilling the holes. Even had my oldest son they some welding on some spare metal, did pretty good for his first time, few straight down lines and one little movement side to side.

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Well finished up the passenger side mount and painted it and got it in installed, drilled the holes and mounted my old seats into my sons car and setting up where I want the center console. Old seats from the Valiant will be up for sale, not sure what to ask.

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Bought the isolator so I can hook up my launch control to the trans brake and not fry my ecu. So I cab set that all up and play with different launch rpms once tuned.

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Well ****, took the car out for a drive to check everything, drove to a friends house and I ended up tossing the belt somewhere so had to limp it home, and still a oil leak, so I'm now thinking rear main cause oil pan was sealed, didn't drip when running and idling but under power it leaks so finding the seal and seeing what it costs and will order one up, good thing I don't have a dyno appointment. The catch can must have just blew out the rear when it wasn't venting and the pressure ruined the seal. So you guessed it out comes the engine again to get to the rear main since I have to pull the crank up a bit to get the two piece one out. Bummer deal thought I had it licked, aside from that it ran good lol
 
Matts440 said:
Well ****, took the car out for a drive to check everything, drove to a friends house and I ended up tossing the belt somewhere so had to limp it home, and still a oil leak, so I'm now thinking rear main cause oil pan was sealed, didn't drip when running and idling but under power it leaks so finding the seal and seeing what it costs and will order one up, good thing I don't have a dyno appointment. The catch can must have just blew out the rear when it wasn't venting and the pressure ruined the seal. So you guessed it out comes the engine again to get to the rear main since I have to pull the crank up a bit to get the two piece one out. Bummer deal thought I had it licked, aside from that it ran good lol
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Mine has leaked since about the third day I broke in the motor. I’ve learned to accept it for now. Only leaks when the motor is off and parked. Just a few drops. Drives me crazy if I let it. So I don’t. :)
 
subcom said:
Mine has leaked since about the third day I broke in the motor. I’ve learned to accept it for now. Only leaks when the motor is off and parked. Just a few drops. Drives me crazy if I let it. So I don’t. :)
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Mines more then a few drops, id be the same if it was a few but not so much. Just running and idle and getting to operating temp maybe saw a drop or two but once under power it leaks more. Top of motor is dry so its not leaking down, so it has to be the main seal, pan is flat checked that last time.
 
Waiting to call Kent this coming week for a new rear main seal, but with this being a two piece rear main, anyone know if there is room with a gear drive to just lift the rear of the crank to access without taking the front of the motor apart to get to the idler gear and remove it to lift the crank up a bit. Which then will mean having to degree it in again if the cam gear moves.
Thoughts??
 
Seal ordered, also forgot to mention found a spark plug wire boot burnt so ordered new wires and some shields for them and a new oil pan gasket, couldn't get the silicone off the old one.
 
Well had to pull the front of the motor apart and had to lift the crank out to swap rear main seals, lucky the timing didn't move and just put the crank back in how I pulled it, thought I'd have to re degree the cam. But got that swapped and mains and rods bolts all torqued down, tomorrow will finish putting the engine back together.
 
Was it clear the rear main was the problem once the motor was out?
 
Not really since the oil would be swung everywhere, I knew for sure it wasnt the pan since I just resealed it, and with the none breathing vent system its the only other possibility since the rear cam roller bearing doesn't get main feed on the oiling just splashed, I ruled that out, and checked that area with no signs of leaking.
 
Engine back in, only bolted up the bell housing, out 4 QTS of oil in and going to let it sit and see if anything leaks so far. Wish I had one of those homemade engine test stands could throw it on there and run it to check.

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Finished putting the engine all back together, filled the oil to full, and the coolant, going to let it sit, I know just start the damn thing but just err on the side of caution and going to see if there's any leaks with coolant and a full oil pan. But also got the voltage isolator wired in so if the leaks are gone can start messing with launch control and 2 step once dyno is done.

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Well so far so good, started the car up today, let it get to temp and no leaks so far. Do you all think that a breather tank size matters? Was thinking the small one I had on the car was just too small to vent all the gases out without pushing on the other port? Plus think there would be benefit to adding a 10an fitting to the fuel block off and running another line to help vent it all? Have seen some 4 port catch cans, but if off both valve covers isn't enough without going a vacuum pump, adding the third vent, thoughts?
 
Take it out and run it. If it fills the vent can with oil then worry about it. You’re trying to fix a problem you don’t know that you have.
 
True, well it was a problem but was to late of a fix taking the vent filter off the inside of the can.
 
What does your breather system consist of now? What size are the lines off the valve covers? I’m a firm believer in letting the block breathe as much as possible. I even welded a -10an bung(baffled) at the rear of my intake to help gases escape the valley area.
 
turbovan said:
What does your breather system consist of now? What size are the lines off the valve covers? I’m a firm believer in letting the block breathe as much as possible. I even welded a -10an bung(baffled) at the rear of my intake to help gases escape the valley area.
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Its got 10an fittings off the aluminum valve covers and was going to this catch can with 10an fittings to 1/2npt adapters.

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Took it out for a drive around the whole block, so far so good, but I also didn't have my catch can hooked up either, only had one drop on the bottom of the bell housing but I think that's all from the spray inside the bell housing from before, forgot to spray it out when the engine was out. Keeping an eye on things, but didn't loose my belt this time either so that's a good thing lol, stayed nice and cool at 170* course its only like 40* outside anyways.
 
Sort haven't updated, decided to get a vacuum pump for the car, just kept thinking it wasn't pulling out the crankcase pressure even with the mods I did to aid this, so just got the mounting bracket drilled today at work, waiting for the valve covers to get done with the 12an fittings welded to them and the mandrel cut down for clearance.

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Matts440 said:
Sort haven't updated, decided to get a vacuum pump for the car, just kept thinking it wasn't pulling out the crankcase pressure even with the mods I did to aid this, so just got the mounting bracket drilled today at work, waiting for the valve covers to get done with the 12an fittings welded to them and the mandrel cut down for clearance.

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I was eyeing that in the for sale section, not that I need one, just a great price for the setup. Nice catch, can't wait to see if it fixes your issue.
 
DNasty777 said:
I was eyeing that in the for sale section, not that I need one, just a great price for the setup. Nice catch, can't wait to see if it fixes your issue.
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Yeah it was a great price and its in great condition. Figure might as well, should stop a by future oil leaks.
 
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