67 twin turbo dart

-
So how’s the dyno ops finger? Is he able to push buttons yet?
 
Well after messing with the stupied cable on both adjustments on the shifter, think between the shifter itself and or the cable, I decided to go with another shifter all together, its still 3rd gear no park or park no third, but I can push the cable and it slides in. Even tried to route the cable different, still same, so ordered up a sidewinder with rear exit and their reverse lock out for the reverse manuel. Hopefully it ships sooner then it says, but right now haven't heard from the dyno shop which works out, I need to get this figured to have the trans work completely. But atleast now we don't have to worry about a console for my sons car he will get the one from my car. Did take my wife for a ride on Sunday got on it a little the car behind me hot small fast lol, might adjust fuel down 2 since I'm still reading 9s on the wideband. But she liked it, scared her a little lol.


Screenshot_20220711-093842_Google.jpg
 
Do you have any options on cable pivot placement on either the shifter or the trans? Sounds like one or both mounting locations needs to move closer to the pivot point. Should be an easy fix.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Do you have any options on cable pivot placement on either the shifter or the trans? Sounds like one or both mounting locations needs to move closer to the pivot point. Should be an easy fix.
Click to expand...
No, cable on the shifter its bolted in place,only one place, no adjustments there, only down at the trans linkage, cable comes off shifter, makes a loop and goes through the stock hole, goes toward the engine then loops down to the bracket they provide, doesn't adjust, which is bolted to the trans pan.
 
This is a generic photo of some edlebrock shift linkage but it helps me point out what I mean.

56828525-CB52-475E-AC27-FA5600028B08.png

The left hole in the bracket is the pivot. On the right is cable attachment with 4 options. The closer you move the cable towards the pivot the more throw you get for any given length of cable movement. You might be able to drill a hole in the linkage you are using.
 
So here's the cable I have, and the ends. The red circles are what I have been fighting to work but there's still movement in the cable that's not fully being used which is why I don't get park or third when either work. Where would your linkage come into play on the gear selector bracket on the transmission?

20220712_174738.jpg
 
So I am making some assumptions here but doesn’t that cable thread in to one of these?
B00FCD57-5A0F-4853-A922-6BAC26D22C22.jpeg
And doesn’t your trans have one of these that accepts that piece?
B926538E-7C63-4706-AD47-C3DB8299383B.png

if so you can drill another hole in the bracket closer to the pivot and you’ll get more movement from the lever.

B1B2C381-78BF-4ECE-A040-C1E490A89364.jpeg

like this.
 
Well now I'm not sure wtf, got the new shifter in and the same damn thing, park or third but now the sidewinder in between gears my valve body is shifting tried both their swing arm set up, went straight to the transmission lever using theirs, same damn thing shifting between, and used the b&m lever and again same thing. Starting to think Im cursed to not be able to get this thing all the way done lol looking any other pictures had the angle off on their bell crank, need to go through the floor board. So I'll try that better, hopefully this works lol.

20220724_212911.jpg


6880384-shifter1.JPG
 
Last edited:
Dont quit now, you ain’t cursed. It’s just the last 20% of finishing a car that takes 80% of the time. You’ll get there just keep plugging away at the little things that come up.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Dont quit now, you ain’t cursed. It’s just the last 20% of finishing a car that takes 80% of the time. You’ll get there just keep plugging away at the little things that come up.
Click to expand...
I know, and that 20% kicks my butt. Yeah that pic I posted its such a odd angle to come in for the cable especially with the 3.5" pipe sitting close to it. Will try to take a look and see tonight and get the bell crank put all back on and go from there, it must just take all that to work no other way around it.
 
Matt - it’s all in the throw length of the cable. It took me hours to get mine right on the Promatic. If it’s only going into Park and 3rd then it sounds too long. Shorten it a tiny tiny bit (just a thread or two) and test again.
 
subcom said:
Matt - it’s all in the throw length of the cable. It took me hours to get mine right on the Promatic. If it’s only going into Park and 3rd then it sounds too long. Shorten it a tiny tiny bit (just a thread or two) and test again.
Click to expand...
For this one its the routing and they said I should be able to go straight to the trans lever but don't think it can on the 727 it needs their bell crank and routing the cable how they say, so I'll drill another hole and route it through the floor board as they say, lots of people havent had any problems doing it the designed way. Will see how the passenger seat fits after this lol
 
Well the curse is lifted lol jk well no shorter way around these sidewinder shifters, have to do it as they say. Got it all connected up, just need to throw a better cotter pin in the rotation shaft and it has and goes into all gears. Will secure the cable, put the carpet back in, bolt down the shifter and see how the passenger seat fits now. To test drive soon and check all gears when driving. Glad I have all of you guys for support.

20220726_202427.jpg


20220726_202440.jpg


20220726_202448.jpg
 
Finally success, got the interior all back together, went for a test drive with the new shifter and have all gears. Now onto redoing the oil pan gasket, still leaks with a light layer of silicone, so going to order the milodon crush proof gaaket set, I'm wondering if they cut the groove to deep on the rear cap and it won't seal, or it rolled when I did it the last time. As long as its nothing major. Then finally I can go back to the dyno.

I do have a felpro magnum engine one piece oil pan gasket that came with the kit it just doesn't lock into the front of the pan like the LA one does. Thoughts
 
Last edited:
Matts440 said:
Finally success, got the interior all back together, went for a test drive with the new shifter and have all gears. Now onto redoing the oil pan gasket, still leaks with a light layer of silicone, so going to order the milodon crush proof gaaket set, I'm wondering if they cut the groove to deep on the rear cap and it won't seal, or it rolled when I did it the last time. As long as its nothing major. Then finally I can go back to the dyno.

I do have a felpro magnum engine one piece oil pan gasket that came with the kit it just doesn't lock into the front of the pan like the LA one does. Thoughts
Click to expand...
Dam Matt, you have been running through the ringer....... You kept your head in the game. Nice seeing it almost done. Oh and the Cam guy is on DUM FUK Juice. You chased your tail for a long long time of that guys mess up. Don't feel weird though, I chased a gremlin in my green machine for a year easily. My problem was ground related, found a ground on the MSD not hooked up. "I let someone else wrench on my car and they missed a ground.... never again"
 
Mad Dart said:
Dam Matt, you have been running through the ringer....... You kept your head in the game. Nice seeing it almost done. Oh and the Cam guy is on DUM FUK Juice. You chased your tail for a long long time of that guys mess up. Don't feel weird though, I chased a gremlin in my green machine for a year easily. My problem was ground related, found a ground on the MSD not hooked up. "I let someone else wrench on my car and they missed a ground.... never again"
Click to expand...

Thanks my friend, yeah almost there, everyone on here has helped me keep my head there. Yeah like I said they must have just seen small block Mopar. Been there too on the grounding for the sensors lol. But got the oil pan resealed again and let it sit for a while, put some oil in it yesterday and the coolant back in, going to start it today, hopefully the oil pan leak is gone and then back to the dyno. Also after driving it around for a bit, found out the installation on both rewrite corners of the hood are peeling up so think I need to install some hood louvers to help get the heat out. Just weld some in to the hood and cut the size out of just the top layer of the hood, tach it all in and bond the rest in. Was thinking of running these on either side as vents.

Screenshot_20220829-141300_Chrome.jpg


20220828_183237.jpg
 
Last edited:
Well got around to starting the car today, so far so good no more oil leaks, let it run and get to normal temp, and nothing. Hopefully it stays that way. But also used the rear seat delete from my sons car and installed it into mine since his will get a bench seat and mine not anymore, to much of a pain to get that **** in there lol. Had to trim a bit to make it fit since his car has stock wheel wells and mines mini tubed :)

20220904_173831.jpg


20220904_173902.jpg
 
Forgot to mention had to order a new alternator belt, the cogged teeth were gone on part if the belt, not sure how, ordered a standard v belt solid type, its a Goodyear brand.
 
Well started the car again today and still no leaks. So when I can off to the dyno, must have been that breather not breathing lol. But made (first time ) seat brackets to mount the poly seats into the dart go a little more light weight over the cipher seats and those will go into the valiant, but got the one side done and tested it with me in the seat and no sag or anything, will clean it all up and paint it, then when o get more metal I'll build the other side.

20220911_201914.jpg


20220911_201919.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top