67 twin turbo dart

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AUSA66 said:
Bores look good does yours have the 1 piece light seal o ring rear main i found most of my leaks come from further up & weep down the sides making it look like a rear main leak also along the back of the valley cover check the rear oil gallery bungs as well i use the loctite white thread seal on everything & gascachink on the pan
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I can see it coming from the pan seal, rear main was dry, going to reseal all the galleys back there and if I can get the cam plug out and silicone that in instead of the gaskasinch stuff just to be sure. Going to go over everything.
 
Matts440 said:
I can see it coming from the pan seal, rear main was dry, going to reseal all the galleys back there and if I can get the cam plug out and silicone that in instead of the gaskasinch stuff just to be sure. Going to go over everything.
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When doing the pan i do every bolt as well the cam plug spun up a piece of ally & cut an o'ring into it these days i get them up to temp on a run stand then fix all the leaks before paint saves a lot of headaches .
Have you thought about putting a distributor & coil on it to prove each part
 
AUSA66 said:
When doing the pan i do every bolt as well the cam plug spun up a piece of ally & cut an o'ring into it these days i get them up to temp on a run stand then fix all the leaks before paint saves a lot of headaches .
Have you thought about putting a distributor & coil on it to prove each part
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Wish I had the money for a stand. I'm going to go with a brass plug for the cam and get rid of that aluminum plug that the magnums have, more shoulder to seal. Good call on the bolts, I'm pretty sure I just forgot to put silicone one the block side of the half moon seals at front and rear.
 
Well oil pan came off and got it all cleaned up, pulled a rod just to make sure the gas in the oil didn't screw them up, just to be sure, were good, didn't bother checking the mains since the rods were good. Applied silicone to front and rear on pan and rails, installed and tightened. Installed the heads after clean up as well, waiting for some snap rings found a few broken on the rockers when I took them off. Cleaned up the intake of all the jet black film. Cleaned and resealed all oil plugs, kept the magnum cam plug(wasn't leaking anyways) just added some silicone to the outer edge just for extra insurance. So tomorrow I'll rewire the coils and injectors. Drop the engine in and waiting for new intake gaskets to come in from superformance, mine tore. So once that's comes in get that all installed and connect everything back up. Triple checked firing order again just to make sure. Even got my wife to help install the heads since I didn't remove the rocker arms since they are finicky on tightening since the geometry correction shims.

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What grade oil do you all use? I have some mobile from work its 10w30 semi sythetic or would 20w50 be better?
 
What’s your clearance on mains, rods? And what oil pump?
 
Extra .0025 on both? So on top of the clearance that was already there? Explain that a little. Or just give me a number for total. If the clearance is 0025 on both I’d run a 30 or 40 wt. If it’s +0025 I’d run a 50wt.
 
Sorry they were both .001 extra clearance on standard size. Both mains and rods were plastic gauged to double check all clearances.
 
Ok still don’t know the running clearance. Hard to recommend an oil wt. You plastigauged em, so what did the Plastigage tell you?
 
They both came out as .002" clearance on rods and mains. Had to look way back on the thread lol
 
Got the new intake gaskets in and exhaust, waiting on Hughes for the new snap rings that were broken on their rockers, can't believe they charged $15 for 3 of them and shipping. Will get the intake gaskets adhered together since I need a double thick one. Will also get some VR1 10w30 for the motor too.
 
Well Hughes screwed up, they sent the clips to my old address in California, but when I called in to update my CC info I updated my address with them, must not have put it into the computer, so I found some others in the 5/8" plus getting more for a lot less, crazy what they charge $1.58 ea plus shipping, and I have 10 coming for $2.81 lol
 
Finished getting the motor back together, just went and got my own snap rings, spring steel too. Got the engine put back in and hooked up most of everything. New holley crank sensor, the other ending up being to close for comfort. Cleaned up the wiring a bit more so its a little cleaner but still a crap ton of wires lol. All that's left is oil and exhaust put back in.

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Got her fired up today, and its amazing on all 8 cylinders the lope is way more.
rewire and reseal
 
turbovan said:
Any dyno time scheduled in the near future?
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Yeah getting a stupied bolt to seal that goes into a water jacket on the intake, once that's good will get it warm, set the final rocker adjustment and off we go. Will contact them after I get it set.
 
Matts440 said:
Yeah getting a stupied bolt to seal that goes into a water jacket on the intake, once that's good will get it warm, set the final rocker adjustment and off we go. Will contact them after I get it set.
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I was gonna say it sounds like the rockers need adjustment. Glad to hear you still have to hot lash em.
 
So what was the fix to finally get it to fire so much cleaner?
 
subcom said:
So what was the fix to finally get it to fire so much cleaner?
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When I had the cam made, it was suppose to be done in the LS firing order, guess the guy at the CNC machine didn't see that note and just saw small block Mopar. So I had the coils and injectors wired to LS firing order, the can ended up being factory Mopar, so I had to rewire it all back to factory. So the dark cylinders they saw weren't rich condition they were firing on the wrong cycle, which explains why the inside of my intake to throttle body was jet black.
 
As long as my boss gives me the day off, which he should always does, next Thursday going back to the dyno.
 
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