67 twin turbo dart

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Matts440 said:
Well just checked as far as software or version goes mines up to date with the 3.1.08. Now when looking at the programming that was set up before I haven't touched, on the trigger wheel, with having the 36-1 and a can sensor(from a Jeep) would that could as a dual toothed with missing one tooth, or would it be better to change it to one wheel with missing tooth? If its searching for a dual missing tooth type set up and ones not there could that cause cylinders to not function properly?? Just spit balling to greater minds.
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I'm using the factory 5.9 distributor cam sensor, but it's a basic half moon shape just like that Jeep 4.0 you are using. Here's my settings:
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subcom said:
I'm using the factory 5.9 distributor cam sensor, but it's a basic half moon shape just like that Jeep 4.0 you are using. Here's my settings:View attachment 1715933253 View attachment 1715933252
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Thank you, yeah just wanted to make sure that wasn't causing a issue. When I pull the engine for the leak I'll be double checking all the setting even that sensor. I had it set up on TDC #1 and the sensor in the middle of the pick up is what I read. Is that how you set yours up?
 
Matts440 said:
Thank you, yeah just wanted to make sure that wasn't causing a issue. When I pull the engine for the leak I'll be double checking all the setting even that sensor. I had it set up on TDC #1 and the sensor in the middle of the pick up is what I read. Is that how you set yours up?
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Its been a while since I set it up but that sounds right.
 
Got around to retesting the coils signals, and with the wire and plug on a screw driver got low spark, when put next to the inner fender well big sparks. So traced ground wire for coils, took off battery negative and put to the firewall using the wiper motor(been deleted) mount bolt as the new ground, changed engine block ground to firewall. Started the engine felt and sounded smooth, but did the disconnect on the coil connectors with my wife holding 1200rpm, still some made no sound change in rpm when plugging back in. Could it be the crank sensor not reading well and firing some coils and not all? I do have a new holley crank sensor I'm going to install once the motor is out for the oil leak fix. But all coils fire when commanded and all had great spark to the metal fenders. Even put coil dwell up to 4.0ms, some searching shows factory sets them at 4.5ms. Here is how I wired the coils up, just connected to one of the other sensor ecu grounds.

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Ironracer said:
Man, you have Buckets of Patience! But I'll bet that monster is worth it!
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Thanks its been worn thin a few times. But thankfully from all the awesome people on here that keep encouraging me to fix it and make this monster run the way it should, I havent given up, plus my wife does as well.
 
The trigger pattern set in the ecu must match exactly the kind of trigger wheel you are using. 36-1 with cam sync for sequential, for example. If you have 2 missing teeth the ecu needs to know that. What does a crank signal trace look like? And what wheel are you using?
 
TT5.9mag said:
The trigger pattern set in the ecu must match exactly the kind of trigger wheel you are using. 36-1 with cam sync for sequential, for example. If you have 2 missing teeth the ecu needs to know that. What does a crank signal trace look like? And what wheel are you using?
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It is a 36-1 and the can is just the half moon type, so would that count as 2 missing teeth? Crank signal is on once we got that figured out and moved the sensor closer. Not sure the brand of wheel on the crank, Louis got it and came with the car.
 
The cam sensor is just a sync point. Your crank wheel is just a single missing tooth wheel. 36-1
 
TT5.9mag said:
So your set up should look very much like @subcom has his.
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Okay I was wondering about that, I'll change my second trigger off poll to rising edge to match the ignition input which is rising edge. pic is how's its set up now. Just changed it to match his.

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Interesting find when getting the engine ready to pull, the dyno shop did a "oil change" didn't change the oil filter just the oil, asked how many QTS it take in told them 7. This is the amount I got out, it look close to 10qts, since some big fork lifts I work on for their transmission take 14qts and its just slightly higher then what's in then oil drain pan. Going to measure it out and ask them wtf why is there more oil in there then what should be there.

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Well measured the oil 10.5qts not sure why they put that many, cam plug looks dry aside from flinging, looks like the oil pan is the leaker between I forgot silicone on the front and rear half moon shape seals and the over full oil. What are you all gapping your plugs too, I checked what they put in and its .025 is this good to stick with? Thoughts?? Suggestions?
 
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Matts440 said:
Well measured the oil 10.5qts not sure why they put that many, cam plug looks dry aside from flinging, looks like the oil pan is the leaker between I forgot silicone on the front and rear half moon shape seals and the over full oil. What are you all gapping your plugs too, I checked what they put in and its .025 is this good to stick with? Thoughts?? Suggestions?
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Plug gap isn’t hurting you. Big boost guys run under .020 with those coils. Maybe you could open them up and be fine, but it’s not the big problem you’re seeking. What are you running for plug wires? I’ve read resistor style wires(and plugs?) are required to avoid electrical interference.
 
Is it your build that has a non standard firing order or am I thinking of somebody else?
 
Well that's another thing I just checked, watching the rockers it went in factory firing order not the LS I was told, think someone on the machine screwed up on the programming input.
 
Matts440 said:
Well that's another thing I just checked, watching the rockers it went in factory firing order not the LS I was told, think someone on the machine screwed up on the programming input.
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That’s a good clue and could explain the bad performance. If the cam, crank and everything else is standard firing order then just update those params in TunerStudio and test again. They should be the standards in TS.
 
subcom said:
That’s a good clue and could explain the bad performance. If the cam, crank and everything else is standard firing order then just update those params in TunerStudio and test again. They should be the standards in TS.
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Yeah I'll rewire the injectors and coils while the engine is out, then update the firing order.
 
Here's the cylinders, would you all install new rings? Or just leave them and once its all correct will be fine?

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The cylinders still look fresh. And like racerjoe said the rings need load to seat.
 
racerjoe said:
Confused as to why you pulled a head for an oil pan leak? Nothing wrong with that cylinder, you haven't even put that engine under a real load.
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I just pulled the engine and wanted to just inspect the pistons while it was out plus I wasn't sure if the oil leak was from the cam plug or the pan. Just wanted to double check it all, with all the miss firing going on make sure the pistons were okay.
 
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Bores look good does yours have the 1 piece light seal o ring rear main i found most of my leaks come from further up & weep down the sides making it look like a rear main leak also along the back of the valley cover check the rear oil gallery bungs as well i use the loctite white thread seal on everything & gascachink on the pan
 
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