67 twin turbo dart

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Have you tried backing the valve adjusters off slightly on the low cylinders to see if the compression comes up at all i run 10 to 12 thou with my cam
 
AUSA66 said:
Have you tried backing the valve adjusters off slightly on the low cylinders to see if the compression comes up at all i run 10 to 12 thou with my cam
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I set them to what Crower says on the cam card.
 
Matts440 said:


Yeah i could use those d581 just make some aluminum plates using the d585 bolts to mount and drill new holes for those. How much do you want for them?
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Well I remembered some coils missing but there are less than I remember getting with this engine. I have 1 D585 coil.
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But if you can use the d581s you can have em for whatever it costs to ship them to you. I just want to see your car run and these have been on the shelf for a while. If you want them PM me your address and I’ll send em out.
 
Matts440 said:
I can, but sending the signal without the spark plug and wire you can hear it clicking just no very little juice coming out. Both banks are grounded straight to battery and to the ms3 board. Those coils are probably factory one, thinking these are cheaper versions, even factory ones are up in price to $75-$90/per I've seen on some and AC delco brand name
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Curious on your wiring. Of the two coil grounds you have one going back to the MS sensor ground, and then the second going straight to the battery negative? I believe I’ve read about coil issues when wiring to the battery instead of directly to the engine block/head.
 
turbovan said:
Curious on your wiring. Of the two coil grounds you have one going back to the MS sensor ground, and then the second going straight to the battery negative? I believe I’ve read about coil issues when wiring to the battery instead of the engine block/head.
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The one back to the MS is just for the signal ground, just figured battery ground is the best ground.
 
Got the coils from Mike aka TT5.9Mag, awesome guy by the way. Got to testing each coil tonight and had a strong spark off each through the same plug and wire. Ordered some spacers I need in order to mount them, should be here this weekend hopefully if not next week and will get the mounts made and install the coils onto the car and fire it up and see.
 
I just play an awesome guy on TV. Seriously I’m glad they all worked for you I heard that engine run for 30 seconds before the yard yanked it and I never tested them after that. It makes me happy that I could pass them on if I’m not going to use em.
 
Well figured out the transmission issue, even though they couldn't, dropped the pan with my dad and even had him look. So turns out the secondary adjustment needed fixing, the one on the linkage itself, so now I have park and third. So put that all back together. The spacer just came in the mail, so tomorrow will start on all that, made the adapter plates today as well from some aluminum I had. Will post when I'm done.
 
Got the coils all set up on the adaptor plates, recovered the harness. Started the car, first time no delay, small quick rev like less then 2k wide band was about 17 at idle and on the rev 12. But it revved a lot quicker.

Short video of idle:
Watch "used brand LS coils install" on YouTube


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Now get back to the dyno and get it tuned. It’s amazing how much more power they'll make on all 8.
 
Hey it sounds like a v8 now!! Anxiously awaiting dyno numbers and videos!
 
TT5.9mag said:
Now get back to the dyno and get it tuned. It’s amazing how much more power they'll make on all 8.
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Yeah really, lol stupied cheap coils. I'll shoot then a email tomorrow and see when I can get it back in for the tuning.
 
Well wish I had better news but I don't, still not running good, started pulling connectors on the coils and some made a difference where others didn't, need to check the injectors make sure they are spraying, I know the coils all tested fine. That and I need to pull the motor due to a bad oil leak, from the rear of the engine, so while that is out I'll put the injectors in a bucket and spray each one make sure none got clogged. The amount of fuel needed off idle was up high 90-100 setting and idle was 60-70, even tried lowering the size of the injectors on the computer with no difference, increased coil dwell time from 3.5 to 4.5 and no difference. So have stone more checks to do and find that dang oil leak.

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Yeah tell me about one step forward and two back lol VS turbo said that they will clean and rebalance the injectors just toc cover that for $75 which isnt to bad.
 
Matts440 said:
Yeah tell me about one step forward and two back lol VS turbo said that they will clean and rebalance the injectors just toc cover that for $75 which isnt to bad.
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No that’s a good deal. And I’ve dealt with VS a few times and he just did the twins for my boat. Great guy. BUT if it were my car I certainly would not spend another dime on parts until I knew the set up in the MS was dead on. It sure sounds to me like you have an issue in the software.
 
TT5.9mag said:
No that’s a good deal. And I’ve dealt with VS a few times and he just did the twins for my boat. Great guy. BUT if it were my car I certainly would not spend another dime on parts until I knew the set up in the MS was dead on. It sure sounds to me like you have an issue in the software.
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That's what the guy at the dyno shop is thinking too, maybe I'll just have them checked and check with diy to see if they can it the ecu out as well. Just to cover all bases.
 
Well just checked as far as software or version goes mines up to date with the 3.1.08. Now when looking at the programming that was set up before I haven't touched, on the trigger wheel, with having the 36-1 and a can sensor(from a Jeep) would that could as a dual toothed with missing one tooth, or would it be better to change it to one wheel with missing tooth? If its searching for a dual missing tooth type set up and ones not there could that cause cylinders to not function properly?? Just spit balling to greater minds.
 
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