'68 Barracuda Notch

[mosleyme]

The first is the exhaust cutouts in the rear fascia. I only have one and it doesn't line up with my exhaust tip at all. I have dual exhaust and both tips just exit under the fascia. Should I fill in the existing cutout, add a second cutout and rear do my exhaust or something different?

I like what they did with the new Ram trucks. If you could make a cut out in the valence, and the corresponding "bump" above to mimic that, I think it would be cool with the round tips. You could even "borrow" a pair of round tips from a Ram truck, they are nice.

On my car we made rectangular cut outs to match the stock style tips. Hind site I would have made them bigger, deeper, and more exaggerated. They are subtle to the point of almost not being noticeable. Couple of pictures with the tips "mocked" into the approximate final location. I have yet to make the exhaust for the car so that is the best I can do for now.

The second body mod is the antenna hole. I don't even have an antenna right now (much less a radio), but I do like listening to FM radio. If I fill in this hole, are hidden antennas reliable enough to use?

I like the stock antenna, but, I am kind of odd... I have heard the hidden ones work well, I have no personal experience in that area.

 

[rymanrph]

I finally decided to drive the car around this past weekend and ran into all kinds of issues. First a dead battery and then a bad voltage regulator on top of that. Then the fuel filler neck gasket at the tank leaked when I got gas.

After dealing with poor performance and running issues I've asking around town trying to find someone who can tune my carb. The last guy I talked to advised me to send it back to Holley to have them rebuild it. At this point, I'm considering just parking the car until I can afford EFI.

 

[mosleyme]

After dealing with poor performance and running issues I've asking around town trying to find someone who can tune my carb. The last guy I talked to advised me to send it back to Holley to have them rebuild it. At this point, I'm considering just parking the car until I can afford EFI.

Holleys are not that hard to work on. You are in NC! Someone there has got to be able to help you out. What city are you in?

 

[rymanrph]

Holleys are not that hard to work on. You are in NC! Someone there has got to be able to help you out. What city are you in?

I'm in Charlotte and you would think with all the race teams near by that I could find someone, but I guess I just don't know the right people. I'm going to keep asking around; I really don't want the car to sit.

 

[mosleyme]

I'm in Charlotte and you would think with all the race teams near by that I could find someone, but I guess I just don't know the right people. I'm going to keep asking around; I really don't want the car to sit.

I went through vocational school to become a mechanic during the transition from carbs to EFI. You will have a hard time finding someone under 40 that knows how to do anything with a carb unless they have race experience.

Holley is only a couple of gaskets, they are pretty easy to do. First, why do you think it needs rebuilt? Are the floats set? Do you know how to set the floats? What have you done with it so far? Can you adjust the idle mixture? What is it doing that makes you think it is bad? Does the car have points or has it been converted to electronic? On these old cars it is pretty simple. Adjust dwell (if it has points), make sure the plugs are good and gapped correctly, set the float level, set the idle mixture, and after all that, adjust the timing. Assuming wires, cap, rotor and such are good there is not much more to it.

 

[rymanrph]

When I swapped the engine over from the red car, it got a new electronic distributor, cap and rotor and I upgraded to Trailbeast's HEI system. I put in new plugs and wires as well. The timing is set to 13° of initial timing currently with my idle rpm just over 900. I did try to adjust the idle mixture screws as well; I don't remember what they are set at though, but it didn't improve anything when I adjusted them. I haven't adjusted the floats.

When the car first starts, unless you give it some gas, it just wants to die. After a little bit of time it will just barely idle without shutting off. Putting it in gear and giving it any kind of gas just makes it want to die. I have to get the car rolling at idle before any significant amount of throttle. Once the car has warmed up a bit, it doesn't want to die from a stand still, but there is a lag between pushing the pedal and getting anything to happen. When it does finally move, it feels almost like a surge. I'll chirp the tires backing out of the driveway.

The car runs hot at about 2/3 up the gauge while moving and if I slow down or stop, it starts to creep up from there. I've read that bad tuning could cause this. I have a 26" radiator with a shroud. It seems to provide good airflow. I have an external transmission cooler in front of the radiator, but I can't imagine it blocks enough airflow to cause that much of a problem. The fan clutch seems to be working. I don't know the condition of the thermostat or water pump.

And on top of everything, while I was out driving it tonight, the headlight switch (I think) finally gave up the ghost and I lost parking lights and tail lights. The fuse seemed good and I know it could be something else, but the dimmer function has been real spotty recently, so I'm placing my bets on the switch.

 

[mosleyme]

When I swapped the engine over from the red car, it got a new electronic distributor, cap and rotor and I upgraded to Trailbeast's HEI system. I put in new plugs and wires as well. The timing is set to 13° of initial timing currently with my idle rpm just over 900. I did try to adjust the idle mixture screws as well; I don't remember what they are set at though, but it didn't improve anything when I adjusted them. I haven't adjusted the floats.

When the car first starts, unless you give it some gas, it just wants to die. After a little bit of time it will just barely idle without shutting off. Putting it in gear and giving it any kind of gas just makes it want to die. I have to get the car rolling at idle before any significant amount of throttle. Once the car has warmed up a bit, it doesn't want to die from a stand still, but there is a lag between pushing the pedal and getting anything to happen. When it does finally move, it feels almost like a surge. I'll chirp the tires backing out of the driveway.

The car runs hot at about 2/3 up the gauge while moving and if I slow down or stop, it starts to creep up from there. I've read that bad tuning could cause this. I have a 26" radiator with a shroud. It seems to provide good airflow. I have an external transmission cooler in front of the radiator, but I can't imagine it blocks enough airflow to cause that much of a problem. The fan clutch seems to be working. I don't know the condition of the thermostat or water pump.

And on top of everything, while I was out driving it tonight, the headlight switch (I think) finally gave up the ghost and I lost parking lights and tail lights. The fuse seemed good and I know it could be something else, but the dimmer function has been real spotty recently, so I'm placing my bets on the switch.

I made a quick drawing with a few features pointed out in case you are not familiar.

1) Check the float level. That affects every circuit in the carb. On each end of your carb you have a float bowl. On the top is the adjuster nut for the needle / seat height. On the passenger side of the carb are two sight glasses or removable brass plugs. If you have the plugs, you put some rags below them and remove them. If you have an electric pump it is easier because the engine does not need to be running. With the pump running, or engine if the car only has the cam driven pump, you put a box end wrench over the adjuster nut and slightly loosen the lock screw with a flat blade screwdriver. If the fuel is running out of the sight hole, turn the nut until it just barely stops. If you have the sight glass style you want the fuel to just barely be visible at the bottom. Once you have the height adjusted you tighten the locking screw. Do this for the front and rear float bowls. Put the sight plugs back in when you are done. Be careful that you do not get too much fuel collecting in the rags or on the manifold, it is easy to start a fire if you are not careful. The sight glass style may take longer to adjust, you just have to be more patient. If the level is too high you have to wait for the car to use the fuel after each adjustment as you are lowering the level. With the sight plug style it is easier, it just drains out the side if it is too high.

2) Once the floats are set, then adjust the idle mixture. With the car off, gently turn the idle mixture screw clockwise until you feel it seat. Gentle... do not run it down tight. Count the number of full turns it takes to get there. My normal starting point is 2-1/2 full turns out on each side. Once it is seated, turn it out 2-1/2 turns on each side. Start the car. I get a tach feed so I can watch the rpm to do the next part. You can also get a helper to watch or, just listen to the engine. Turn the idle mixture screws slowly in / out on each side until you get the highest idle speed. Check each side independently. Turn the idle speed screw in out to drop or raise the idle occasionally as you go to maintain your target idle speed.

3) Check the accelerator pump. You can push the lever with your finger or blip the throttle. When you do so fuel should come out of the squirter. Your symptoms sound like an accelerator pump issue, but they could just as easily be caused by low float level.

Checking power valve and a few other things require taking the carb apart, you should have gaskets and maybe a manual or some other reference before you tackle something like that. Checking the floats, adjusting the idle speed, and adjusting the idle mixture take care of most issues. If you adjust the float level, go back and make sure the timing is good. Every other adjustment seems to affect timing.

Good luck.

 

[rymanrph]

Thanks for the instructions. I won't be home for a couple days, but I will certainly try that out.

 

[rymanrph]

I checked both fuel float levels and they appear to be where they should be. I tried to adjust the idle mixture screws as best I could, but the idle is so erratic that it makes finding the highest RPM very difficult. It jumps around 10-15 rpm just sitting there. No matter what I do, the idle just doesn't smooth out. Could my cam be too aggressive (I have no idea what's in there)? The accelerator pump seems to be functioning. My initial timing is around 13°.

 

[mosleyme]

I checked both fuel float levels and they appear to be where they should be. I tried to adjust the idle mixture screws as best I could, but the idle is so erratic that it makes finding the highest RPM very difficult. It jumps around 10-15 rpm just sitting there. No matter what I do, the idle just doesn't smooth out. Could my cam be too aggressive (I have no idea what's in there)? The accelerator pump seems to be functioning. My initial timing is around 13°.

What is the idle set to? I used to have one that sounded like a popcorn maker even idling at 1300. I ran it with a 4500rpm stall speed converter. Could be that you have too much cam and that would explain a lot of the issues you are having. The other explanation is that you have a nasty vacuum leak.

 

[rymanrph]

I drove the car around a little bit the other night and it was slightly better after adjusting the idle mixture, but its not great. My coolant level was actually kinda low so that's probably why it was running hot; not sure how it got so low. I actually thought about a vacuum leak. Any idea on how to track then down?

 

[mosleyme]

Any idea on how to track then down?

Spray some carb cleaner lightly in little bursts around the vacuum lines and base of the carb while idling. Don't use too much or start a fire... Spray a small test shot into the carb to get an idea of how it responds the extra fuel. Should surge up a little.

I have actually seen some Holley carbs have vacuum passages that are open on the bottom and not sealed by all gasket / intake manifold combinations. I did one where I had to add a heat shield between the carb and intake to get a proper surface to seal against. Also make sure any unused hose connections on the manifold are plugged.

Make sure the power brake vacuum port on the back and the two ports on the front of the carb itself are plugged if they are not used. The vacuum ports are shown in the attached picture. I highlighted the passages in red that I have seen that sometimes do not line up well with certain intake manifolds and cause vacuum leaks between the carb and manifold.

 

[rymanrph]

I sold my house and until I find somewhere else, the car will be staying at my brother's house. On the 30 minute highway drive to his house, the car got hot about half-way there. The gauge never pegged out completely, but it began forcing coolant out of the cap. After it started getting hot, the car would ping with a moderate amount of throttle.

I thought maybe my radiator could be plugged up (or worse the motor). I guess it couldn't hurt to have the radiator tested.

 

[rymanrph]

I took the radiator out and had it flow and pressure tested. It's good, so that wasn't my problem. I found that there wasn't a thermostat in the system, so I installed a new one along with a new radiator cap. I'm hoping that the cap just wasn't holding pressure and that's my problem.

I won't be able to find out until I can drive the car again, which I have an issue with. I noticed my power steering belt was just about done so when swapping in a new one, I realized that the pulley on the pump doesn't line up. I created another thread in case anyone has any ideas on how to fix that.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1971057017#post1971057017

The only other thing I've been able to do is to replace the headlight switch. I move into my new house two months from today, so hopefully I can get a lot more work done after the move.

 

[rymanrph]

So I'm in the new house and I've had a chance to work on the car a bit. I had to space out my power steering pump to keep the belt from jumping and then with my tax money, I installed a new MSD digital 6AL, pro billet distributor and coil. The car seems to be running pretty well right now. It's not perfect and far from fast (by any stretch of the imagination), but now I can start thinking about getting the rest of the body work done and having it painted.

The one thing I did find was that this car likes more initial timing. At 13° the car has terrible throttle response. I bumped it up to 18° and it drives so much better.

 

[mosleyme]

Picture for you of the cage and nut for the striker.

 

[rymanrph]

Thanks for that. I will probably just make my own cage for the nut and use the Dynamic Renovation patch panel. I'm disappointed though that they wouldn't respond to my email or voice mail.

 

[rymanrph]

The car is going to paint as soon as my body guy can take it. In the mean time, I've been wondering what I can do about some of the less than perfect trim on the car.

I started with the hood ornaments?

This is Plasti Dip bright aluminum over a black base. It is a lot brighter than I had anticipated. I may just end up using it on the trunk panels.

 

[rymanrph]

I got a patch panel for my driver side door jam.

 

[mosleyme]

I got a patch panel for my driver side door jam.

Since you are cutting you may want to consider still doing the dynamic renovation kit. This is a common failure point for the A-body due to metal fatigue from flexing every time the door closes. The repair panel is a thicker gauge metal than the OEM.

Driver side:
Dynamic Renovation - 67-76 A-body Driver Side Door Jamb Repair Plate

Passenger side:
Dynamic Renovation - 67-76 A-body Passenger Side Door Jamb Repair Plate

 

[rymanrph]

I finally have an update. My painter originally thought he would be able to take the car in July, but here we are at the end of the nice weather and he can finally take it on the 19th. He works quickly, so I'm hoping to have the car back in short order. I can't wait to see this car in paint!

 

[rymanrph]

This is the last I will have to look at the car like this:

The next time I see the car, hopefully it will be painted.

 

[Cuda68Scott]

This is the last I will have to look at the car like this:

View attachment 1714991397

The next time I see the car, hopefully it will be painted.

The thought of seeing your car all shiny with new paint must be awesome. What color, you probably said earlier but my memory is shot - I need to reread your threads. I would be interested in the cost of the paint job if you are willing to divulge.

 

[rymanrph]

The thought of seeing your car all shiny with new paint must be awesome. What color, you probably said earlier but my memory is shot - I need to reread your threads. I would be interested in the cost of the paint job if you are willing to divulge.

The color will be a Cadillac color called opulent blue. I had the engine bay painted three years ago. As far as the cost, I've paid him a little here and a little there as he did the rust repair on one corner, the collision damage on another quarter, etc. He told me to to finish the body work and paint would be about $2,500 since the only work left is the doors and fenders (and a few other small parts). I'm going to have him replace the driver side door jamb, fill in the single exhaust cutout and antenna hole, so it will probably be slightly more than that.

 

[rymanrph]

Talked to my paint guy a bit last night. The doors were not original to the car and as he stripped them, he found seven different colors of paint underneath the blue. Here is some partial progress.