'68 Barracuda Notch

-
It's interesting that you mention possible collision damage because I know that my driver door is not original to the car. I can still see the red paint in places.

If you look at the first picture, you can tell the striker was literally ripped out. The two sheet metal screws you see were holding the cage for the nut in place. The quarter panel behind the door had about 40 holes where they had pulled the metal back out with a dent puller. The rocker had a section with about 25 puller holes, brazed metal repair and 1/4" of bondo. Sam cut that section of the rocker out and replaced it with a donor piece.
 
Redfish has been helping me try to figure out why my temperature and gas gauges don't work (but my oil pressure gauge does). When I pulled my cluster today, I found this:

ECA0CF85-D188-4353-B8B4-60EFD26DDAD3_zpsfu3lh1ix.jpg


From the wiring diagrams I've looked at, it appears to be my instrument lights. That explains why mine weren't working.
 
You said the shop owner claimed you had a 9" Ford rear end, and that it wasn't an 8 3/4, right? I thought you said it was an 8 1/4...or was that what WAS in it before you swapped stuff between the red abd blue cars? Maybe I misunderstood, but if he tried 8 (!) Ford (!) drums, maybe he should have tried some for an 8 3/4 and 8 1/4 too, since he had the car so long anyway.

Sucks when shops screw you over like that. Good luck moving forward. I just put a stereo system in an Opulent Blue Metallic CTS-V Wagon, LOVE that color. Can't wait to see it done!

Jay
 
The blue car had a smaller axle in it when I bought it (can't remember what it was), but I swapped over the 8 3/4 from the red car.

I looked at the casting numbers and it took me less than five minutes on Google to figure out what the axle was. From my other thread, it appears the drums may be something custom to match the Moser axle shafts. I'll have to give Moser a call on Monday to double check. The shop could have been hunting forever and never found the right one. We'll see.
 
good luck with the tail lights
repo in new condition big big $


I recently posted a thread asking for opinions on this car I found on Craigslist. I got some great advice from you guys and finally decided to take the three hour drive to check it out.

DSC_0338_zpsc5659f3b.jpg


DSC_0337_zps1dc50016.jpg


DSC_0336_zpsbfa149ee.jpg


100_0134_zps0480ee45.jpg


100_0133_zpsb6af8837.jpg


100_0135_zps426b54bc.jpg


After a test drive, some examination, discussions and price negotiating, I brought it home Saturday evening.

It's a '68 with some '67 parts. The previous owner gave me the following engine info: 360 engine bore .30, ( less than 2000 miles on engine), Holly 4bbl, 480/280 comp cams, KB 107 pistons.

I highly doubt the less than 2000 miles statement. The oil was black and needed changing. One of the lifters developed a tick on the way home. Marvel mystery oil to the rescue.

It has disc brakes up front, but the rotors need turning. Anything associated with the heater doesn't work. The factory oil pressure gauge doesn't work, but an after market gauge has been added. Most of the dash lights work. All the glass is in good shape and the trim is pretty good.

The seat covers look brand new and the carpet is in good shape. There is a little bit of rot on the rockers, but I think it can be patched. The floor pans have been patched before in some spots. I found a couple small holes, but nothing major (at least not yet). The trunk pan is solid, but needs a couple small holes filled as well.

The car sits way too low in the front and the wheels have impacted the fenders before, so while they look no worse than the rest of the car, they will need to be replaced whenever I end up painting the car. One of the down tubes on the driver side header has taken quite a beating because of the height, so that will need to be addressed as well.

I know fully well that I have bought a basket case of a car, but its my basket case now and I can't wait to start working on it. I certainly could have saved some money in the long run buying a much nicer car to start with, but half the fun is working on them.

My immediate goal is to get the car running well and make sure everything is functioning properly. Then I can begin to address cosmetics.

It certainly is a head turner. I've had multiple people stop me to talk about it and got thumbs ups from drivers on the way home. This thread will be as much for me to chronicle my progress, but I'm looking forward to the journey.

Now to find some '68 tail lights....
 
I actually have two sets of '68 lights at the moment. One set came with the blue car and the other set I bought for the red car.
 
I found a brake drum on Ebay and now I just need to find a decent machine shop that I can trust to drill the larger bolt pattern. The wheel is still at the machine shop and he's afraid there might not be enough material to mill down the scratches. I'm hoping to get a definitive answer this week.
 
I just got off the phone with the wheel repair shop. They had previously tried to polish the scratches out, but they were too deep. I just learned that they aren't able to to mill the wheel out because the lathe won't reach deep enough to do the entire barrel.

I've already spent the $150 the insurance quoted on wheel repair on the polishing work and now I have to convince them to give me another $400ish on a new wheel, mounting and balancing. I am so ready for this ordeal to be over with.
 
you are goin through a lot of gyrations trying to find one drum off ebay getting it drilled etc etc etc.

should have called dr diff he sells complete rear brake setups for like $300

that would be new drums backing plates wheel cylinders pads springs the whole shebang
 
you are goin through a lot of gyrations trying to find one drum off ebay getting it drilled etc etc etc.

should have called dr diff he sells complete rear brake setups for like $300

that would be new drums backing plates wheel cylinders pads springs the whole shebang

If I could get the insurance company to pay that, I would have gone that route. They only estimated $28 for a brake drum. Anything over that, I have to submit as a supplemental and then be reimbursed.
 
Finally a little progress:

A57504BC-068D-4479-90FA-4AA91888EDE9_zpsrpcnufvg.jpg


The new bolt pattern fits perfectly, so that makes me happy. Tomorrow I will be submitting a whole bunch of receipts and invoices to the insurance company for about $700 that their initial estimate (and check) did not cover. As soon as I can get that money, I can order my new wheel and wait another 4-6 weeks. Then the car can go to the body shop to have the quarter panel repaired.
 
I dropped the car off at the body shop today. I am getting the rear quarter panel repaired (from the escaping wheel), but I'm going to have a little extra work done at the same time. All of the top surfaces of the vehicle has peeling, flaking paint/bondo with some surface rust. All of that will be sanded down and primed.

9DDD634A-3104-4BE1-B1BC-A21C07DA8DE2_zpsejkrhdcv.jpg


57B7D410-4BAB-42F7-838E-0CDEE8C1E9EF_zpsgodpftui.jpg


04BA0EA9-D14F-400D-ABCA-8D22327F5F04_zpstldlgry3.jpg


I think there was a spoiler on the back at some point, so I'm interested to see what is found under all that body filler on the trunk lid.

I wish I could afford to have the whole car painted, but for now, I'm just taking care of a little bit at a time.
 
Progress is progress, looking good. You are light years ahead of me. It does look like a spoiler was on the trunk lid but your lid looks straight so it sure looks like the repair would be easy. What does the inside of the lid look like?
 
Progress is progress, looking good. You are light years ahead of me. It does look like a spoiler was on the trunk lid but your lid looks straight so it sure looks like the repair would be easy. What does the inside of the lid look like?

The paint on the under side is in much better condition. However, you can see places where the body filler wasn't sanded very smooth that line up with the spoiler holes. When the car was painted blue from the original green, they were pretty thorough. The whole interior save for the rear parcel shelf was painted. Unfortunately, they just didn't do a very good job and the paint and body filler began flaking off.

My body guy said he hopes to have it back to me by the end of the week, so I should have an update pretty soon.
 
I stopped by to take a look at the car tonight after work. It looks a little funny, but at least I'm down to two colors now (primer and blue).

D0B8CCEB-3424-45EE-A4DF-F80BB350E2DC_zpsusnpgq8r.jpg


7A79936C-FAF3-4523-83A6-0AAAB50410A4_zps81oagusp.jpg


535E3379-B9A0-4FF1-AD0A-7B2EEF7D3F22_zpsbjlaa0h6.jpg


CDA01365-4321-4F2A-99F9-E70DC3F79282_zpsuj8jan2m.jpg


Turns out not only was there a spoiler at some point on the car, but there was a scoop on the hood or something because my body guy found about 10 holes in the hood. Now to start saving for the rest of the body work and paint, but at least I don't have to worry about exposed metal and rust for the time being.
 
Here are a couple more shots of my funky two-tone primer paint job.

E9D0AE0A-8FBA-45E1-B115-5C963BDB3331_zpsijd5ec5h.jpg


899EBDDB-F3E5-4C9A-B06F-9DB872BE8CA7_zpsxmzdhzmq.jpg


There are about four layers of paint on the doors that are cracking pretty badly and you can see on the passenger fender where that paint is starting to chip off too. Maybe in the spring I'll go ahead and have the rest of the body work done and then start saving for the paint. So much to do and so little money to spend.
 
I found a closeout deal on some KYB shocks - got all 4 for around $100.

58AB8EFE-C347-4B66-8354-30C69913E7DC_zpsv1rzxzu7.jpg


Wasn't planning on replacing them just yet even though I needed them, but this deal seemed to good too pass up.

I also got a trunk lock finally. Yay for no more screwdriver keys. Unfortunately, now I have a key for the ignition, a key for the trunk and no keys for the doors.
 
So, I got the new shocks in the car and it rides 100% better than before. What I found interesting though is that the front end now sits higher than before. I wouldn't have thought a shock could do that.
 
I picked up a new steering column to convert to a floor shifter. As you can see, it has some rust issues.

522053B6-1E75-43D3-A938-F2A70CC7F3B7_zpsci1r0lg9.jpg


E0F8F898-DF7A-4ECA-8382-96163A2E8EB5_zpslxuo4fuz.jpg


I got most of the parts stripped and a coat of rust reformer on them, but no pictures yet.

I also finally got my new rear wheel after the accident in June. I got ready to take the car for a spin the other night and my battery was completely dead. I'm running out of good weather to drive the car since it doesn't have heat.
 
I do have the upper trim, I just took it off for the body work.

My column is all painted and reassembled (no pictures yet). I will be installing it along with my B&M shifter this weekend.

I had some rubbing on the inside of the wheel tubs so I bought some 1/4" spacers to try to alleviate that problem.

0D294619-2BAA-427A-9007-0B8C18E9F700_zpsmhzc9c1s.jpg


I won't know if they work until I get a chance to drive it around later this week.
 
Whew. This was way more work than it should have been, but I'm glad to have the floor shifter and the correct column now.

42B43892-0113-45D9-94A0-3E755048C7FF_zps7b5hjzmn.jpg


BA231540-56F2-4E2F-8F87-16C9F45CEAE1_zpswkdttclv.jpg
 
-
Back
Top