rymanrph
Well-Known Member
I talked to them today and they said they could swap them out no problem - tires that is. I'm very happy with the wheel sizes.
'68 Barracuda Notch
- Thread starter rymanrph
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That is great! At the very least do one to see what it looks like, but I'm pretty sure you will be happy with the 275/40.
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
I got the tires swapped out today. I took it for a spin around the block and there is some slight rubbing on the outside edge. I think I may just be too low in the back. I have 3" lowering blocks, so I think I'll try swapping in some 2" blocks. I'm already sitting a little lower in the back than the front and I like a little rake. If that doesn't work, I'll have to trim the lip or roll it back some.
I got the tires swapped out today. I took it for a spin around the block and there is some slight rubbing on the outside edge. I think I may just be too low in the back. I have 3" lowering blocks, so I think I'll try swapping in some 2" blocks. I'm already sitting a little lower in the back than the front and I like a little rake. If that doesn't work, I'll have to trim the lip or roll it back some.
<a href="http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb109/Rymanrph/Barracuda/53C341D7-9782-47D6-BA4A-084EDFDFB5D3_zpsydgc54db.jpg" target="_blank">
I like it! Now the rear wheels do not look out of proportion. It is subtle, but it is one of those things that my eye is drawn to. I hope you like it, especially since this is your car!
1" less drop in the rear will look good. Here are some pictures on how we trimmed / rolled the rear lip on my car. The two pictures with the yellow masking tape were taken before they sprayed the bed liner material, the yellow is on the lip and highlights what was trimmed and rolled up. That will be difficult to do with the wheel lip trim. You may want to trim it similar to the way the front wheel lip trim is done from the factory if you keep the trim.
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
I swapped out the 3" blocks for 2" blocks today. I didn't get a chance to drive it around to see if the rubbing is gone.
Not a huge difference, but hopefully enough.
Not a huge difference, but hopefully enough.
Inspector71
Well-Known Member
I'm sure everyone, especially in states where they make the freeways out of salt, appreciate your basket case description. What you have is a really nice 68. I am working on my, cash permitting, and it has even less rust but came with no engine. In fact, most of the rust was in the heater box. All the rods are rusted and now I have it out to redo. That may be your problem there. This is a great car to do. My dah, gauage area, needs redone. The top is black and the bottom? Silver? Argent? and I think the edges were chromed. Is any of this correct? If not, what is the correct color for the bottom part? thanks.
Bottom is light argent. My bezel is a reproduction.
Inspector71
Well-Known Member
My project ground to a halt (thanks Missouri) but once everything is sorted out, I am back to work on it. I have waited many years to get to this project. UU1 Blue, black interior, going from a slant six to a built 360 with Dana S rear, 373 sure grip, headers, disc brakes up front, large drums in the rear
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
I took the car out for a short drive this evening. My driver side tire is still contacting the front of the fender, but it looks like my clearance on the passenger side is OK. Its the worst when I'm backing out of the driveway and the wheel is turned. Can poor alignment cause the wheel to sit too far forward? Is there any adjustment with the K member?
My new turn signal cam isn't working (no turn signals on the dash or the actual lights themselves), my dash lights are not working, the headlights are two dim bulbs pointed at the ground, I can't get the rear brakes adjusted correctly, the gas and temp gauges don't work, I have a coolant and a transmission fluid leak, the engine needs tuning, the heater core is leaking, the rear quarter windows need new rollers, the doors and door glass needs aligning, I have no horn, my reverse lights don't work oh and it really needs a paint job. But all that said, I can't help but feel like the coolest guy in the world driving around in this car.
My new turn signal cam isn't working (no turn signals on the dash or the actual lights themselves), my dash lights are not working, the headlights are two dim bulbs pointed at the ground, I can't get the rear brakes adjusted correctly, the gas and temp gauges don't work, I have a coolant and a transmission fluid leak, the engine needs tuning, the heater core is leaking, the rear quarter windows need new rollers, the doors and door glass needs aligning, I have no horn, my reverse lights don't work oh and it really needs a paint job. But all that said, I can't help but feel like the coolest guy in the world driving around in this car.
Check for worn out strut rod bushing. Yes, alignment can make a difference.
Adding relays makes a big difference.
That's because you are! It is a Barracuda Notchback thing, you get used to it after a while.
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
I think I found out why my tire was contacting the fender so much.
Time to find another.
Time to find another.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Ouch! 
KENTON
Well-Known Member
I think I found out why my tire was contacting the fender so much.
Time to find another.
I'd have Daisy Duke sign that and hang it on the wall next to her picture.
Was the bushing toasted also - or just the bent strut rod?
FF HD rods ($155 with bushings):
http://www.firmfeel.com/a_body_mopar_strut_rods.html
or FF adjustable HD rods ($240 with bushings):
http://www.firmfeel.com/a_body_mopar_adjustable_strut_rods.html
also read this before you replace, the newer poly bushings sold are the wrong size for our cars:
http://www.firmfeel.com/adjstrut.htm
I think "Clair.Davis" did a write up on the bushing issue years ago. I'm trying to find it.
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
They weren't terrible, but they looked a little worn. I found a set of replacement rods here on the forums and I went ahead and just picked up the Moog two piece rubber replacement bushings. I need to save a little money; I just bought a new daily driver and I've still got several things left to do on the barracuda till I can drive it reliably.
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
I have the car back together and have an appointment tomorrow for an alignment. I've been scouring the forums for the best alignment specs. They're going to adjust my brakes too; my drums keep over adjusting and like to lock up - I'm not sure what's going on.
After that, I need to get my fuel and water temperature gauges working again, a little tuning and I'll feel comfortable driving it regularly. I still have many things I want to do, but at least I'll be able to drive it and take care of issues as funds allow.
After that, I need to get my fuel and water temperature gauges working again, a little tuning and I'll feel comfortable driving it regularly. I still have many things I want to do, but at least I'll be able to drive it and take care of issues as funds allow.
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
The car has been in the shop getting an alignment and brakes. I got the call you never want to get when your car is in someone else's hands.
While out testing the car, the rear wheel came off. He thinks the tech just didn't seat the wheel properly.
Here you can see some of the damage to my brand new wheel:
The shop was really cool about everything, so its all going to get fixed on their insurance. The wheel hit another car, but nobody was hurt. It could have been a lot worse.
I'm a little bummed because I'm so close to getting it driving (reliably) and this is just another set back, but oh well.
While out testing the car, the rear wheel came off. He thinks the tech just didn't seat the wheel properly.
Here you can see some of the damage to my brand new wheel:
The shop was really cool about everything, so its all going to get fixed on their insurance. The wheel hit another car, but nobody was hurt. It could have been a lot worse.
I'm a little bummed because I'm so close to getting it driving (reliably) and this is just another set back, but oh well.
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
Anyone know where I can get new wheel lip trim? Classic Industries has a listing for a full set, but they are currently out of stock.
Check with Layson's. Don't buy them unless you verify they are in stock ready to ship.
http://www.laysons.com/Catalog.cfm?nCatID=792&nModelID=3&nModelYear=1968
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
I still don't have my car back. The shop owner couldn't find a brake drum locally and asked me to order it (3 business days after the accident). I told him that he should take care of that. Apparently it has been ordered, but its still not here. I stopped by the shop yesterday on the way home because I hadn't heard the first thing from the insurance company and nothing from the shop owner in a week. Turns out, he's on vacation this week and the insurance company can't do anything until they settle with him. Tomorrow will be two weeks since they damaged my car and Friday will be three weeks since I took it to them. I've grown impatient.
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
So they told me that the first two brake drums that they ordered were not correct but they had another one on order and it would be done by end of day yesterday. I was hoping to have it earlier since it was my day off, but whatever. I show up at 15 minutes till closing and the car hadn't been touched. So I wait an hour for them to actually do something and then they tell me that the third brake drum is also wrong. This shop is about 40 minutes from my house. I let the guy have it, but he's not the one in charge and the owner wasn't there. I'm past impatient - I'm angry. They've had my car for a month for an alignment and brakes.
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
So, I finally got the car back to my house today - a full five weeks after I dropped it off at the shop. They never found the correct drum. They just cleaned up the one I had and sent me on my way. The shop owner is convinced that its a Ford 9" and not a 8 3/4. I don't know enough about either to argue with him, but I know that the 8 Ford drums he tried didn't work.
He told me that he adjusted the ride height when he did my alignment. I measured when I got home and the driver side is a full 1" lower than the passenger side. I have no idea how you can be that off.
I tried to tackle some little things today. The first project was to try and fix my temp gauge. We put a jumper on the plug to ground and it moved to the first ticked and stopped - wouldn't go back down either. I know that the wire is pretty brittle and hard, so it could be that or the gauge.
Next project - I decided to adjust the doors to get them to close a little better. When I pulled the driver door striker out, I heard a clunk (sigh). I pulled the back seat and the interior panel to fish the "nut" out and this is what I found:
As you can see, there is no longer a captured nut and absolutely no adjustment possible. Not sure what I'm going to do long term, but for now, I'll probably just open that hole up a little more for adjustment.
When I have the quarter panel fixed from the wheel coming off, I think I'm going to have my body guy fix all my visible paint flaking/rust/bare metal spots - hood, trunk, header etc. The goal is to get it down to two major colors - faded blue and primer gray.
He told me that he adjusted the ride height when he did my alignment. I measured when I got home and the driver side is a full 1" lower than the passenger side. I have no idea how you can be that off.
I tried to tackle some little things today. The first project was to try and fix my temp gauge. We put a jumper on the plug to ground and it moved to the first ticked and stopped - wouldn't go back down either. I know that the wire is pretty brittle and hard, so it could be that or the gauge.
Next project - I decided to adjust the doors to get them to close a little better. When I pulled the driver door striker out, I heard a clunk (sigh). I pulled the back seat and the interior panel to fish the "nut" out and this is what I found:
As you can see, there is no longer a captured nut and absolutely no adjustment possible. Not sure what I'm going to do long term, but for now, I'll probably just open that hole up a little more for adjustment.
When I have the quarter panel fixed from the wheel coming off, I think I'm going to have my body guy fix all my visible paint flaking/rust/bare metal spots - hood, trunk, header etc. The goal is to get it down to two major colors - faded blue and primer gray.
That sucks. I have seen a lot of these repaired, many done badly. Apparently the sheet metal cracking around the post is common. Post on my thread on the proper repair:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970239914&postcount=147
Plates are from http://www.dynamicrenovation.net/ and are thicker gauge than original.
Here are some pics:
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
It's interesting that you mention possible collision damage because I know that my driver door is not original to the car. I can still see the red paint in places.
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