68 Dart Project.

[HemiDenny]

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I actually never considered running a hydraulic roller at all.

is it because your Dart is strip car?, (not a coffee getter) or is it because the hydraulic does not offer the profiles you like?

I ran a .750 lift solid roller in my Duster drag car, but in 1975 the required bronze distributor gear was considered a no-no on the street.

 

[Hemirunner]

Got a new 572 (leftover) with 11-1CR....looks like a cam swap is in the future. Curious , why the solid roller vs hydraulic. is it because of the KB block used?

The HR roller cams are a bit of PIA in those engines and make pushrod clearance an eveN bigger pain plus those heads really work at higher rpm than the HR stuff can go. They’re great on a big inch street wedge, but it’s not a consideration for a hemi in my opinion.

 

[savoy]

My engine builder agreed with that even for a street only application.

 

[Malex]

GREAT! waiting for videos of the Dart at the track like the 64.

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Actually had the 64 up to the track this weekend. Went out 2nd round with a $@@#$%@% red light on Saturday but went 4 rounds today. Was running 1.34, 1.35 60’s all weekend but an unexpected 1.32 60’ in the 4th round today resulted in a .007 breakout. Still a good weekend but after wacking the track with the oil pan a couple times I had to tighten it up some. Some pics.

 

[Malex]

The HR roller cams are a bit of PIA in those engines and make pushrod clearance an eveN bigger pain plus those heads really work at higher rpm than the HR stuff can go. They’re great on a big inch street wedge, but it’s not a consideration for a hemi in my opinion.

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I do believe that we had this conversation some time back HemiRunner, when I was still in the planning stages.

 

[HemiDenny]

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I do believe that we had this conversation some time back HemiRunner, when I was still in the planning stages.

yes, I kinda remember now.....so thanks again from the CRS crowd.

 

[Malex]

Was a fun day putting the final touches on the Hemi. Just need to drag the project Dart back home soon.

 

[HemiDenny]

that is centerfold material right there.

 

[Malex]

Fall is here and that means it’s time to get busy on the Dart again. So it’s picture time....

The Dart came home last week and of course It’s been screaming HEMI ever since..

Unloaded and on the hoist. Up out of the way so old Red can park under.

Hemi is done, ready to slide in any day.

So one thing led to another and today it just felt right. I move the car ahead and off the hoist so that I can get the cherry picker under the front, works best this way.

Easy does it, have rubber in place on the side fender wells so No **** happens...

Hemi in place!

That wasn’t too bad at all. Although now comes the tedious work. Right off the bat I see the external oil pump assembly is going to need one or both #12 fittings replaced with 90 degree ones. Probably a different oil line length too. The right valve cover just misses so that is good, and the steering shaft is pretty much against the left head valve cover. Will get the transmission bolted up into place so that the angles are correct and then see where the problem areas are. According to the TTI measurements for their headers the hemi is bang dead centre at the front so that is good! And that’s about it for now. Hemi Denny, Guys, any tips at this point? This is all a first for this Dude.

 

[abdywgn]

Glad to see you back! Looking forward to watching progress.

 

[Malex]

Glad to see you back! Looking forward to watching progress.

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Yes, the Dart is getting the treatment now each and every day, including today. And what the heck here’s todays update.

Today the transmission went up into place using my cherry picker and a home made trans hinge plate. So easy.

Now that the transmission is in place the passenger valve cover fits the modified area perfectly.

I’ve got to swap the oil pump fitting, tried today and the 45 won’t work. A 90 at both the pump and the pan will do the trick. Got that on order.

The Master cylinder is a problem with the Stage V valve covers but I’ve got a couple of ideas to try..

Engine is angled about 2 degrees with the trans in place. Front engine measurements are dead on so the TTI headers should fit without issue.

That’s it for today..

 

[kursplat]

looks awsome. you sure 4 hood pins will be enough?

 

[HemiDenny]

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The Master cylinder is a problem with the Stage V valve covers but I’ve got a couple of ideas to try..
View attachment 1715603430

stage V heads / valve covers on FHO Hemi in 72 Dart. Fabricated a Master cylinder adapter that moved the master to the drivers side 1" .....and up 1/2"
it did the trick.

 

[HemiDenny]

looks like you could use a HDK recess bulkhead adapter

 

[Malex]

stage V heads / valve covers on FHO Hemi in 72 Dart. Fabricated a Master cylinder adapter that moved the master to the drivers side 1" .....and up 1/2"
it did the trick.

View attachment 1715603455

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My block has my MC over the 1”, The inner structure doesn’t allow to go further, but moving up another 1/4” would give me ample room. Will check into that tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[Malex]

looks like you could use a HDK recess bulkhead adapter

View attachment 1715603485

View attachment 1715603486

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That’s a nice piece and I’ll be looking closer at that too. Thanks again.

 

[Malex]

looks awsome. you sure 4 hood pins will be enough?

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Thanks! I’m not worried about my hood with the 4 pins. It’s the hinge type with additional structure including centre latch provision.

 

[HemiDenny]

I think in the final version I might have even raised the Master 3/4" and as I remember it had to do with being able to clear the original four mounting holes. You are correct, 1" over is the max without major modification / surgery. The 3/4" raise does stay within the limits of the ball / socket pushrod.

More pictures and info on the recessed bulkhead adapter in the thread linked below. Besides recessing the plugs and wires and adding much needed space in that crowded area, the bulkhead adapter allows the connect / dis-connect to be made from the interior.....kind of a two-fer.

recessed bulkhead

 

[Malex]

Another day on the Dart.

Spent a few hours test fitting the headers. Passengers side was good, remove the torsion bar and clear sailing. No issues. Drivers side was a lot more work. Process is, install starter, install header,
Install steering box from the front, install the torsion bar, in that order. Excellent clearance though. Got to give credit to TTI on building a quality header that fits.

Then after all that was fit the headers came back out, the strg got reassembled, the trans came back out and then the engine...

Once the motor was back out a guy was able to remove the MC offset block that was hidden behind the valve cover. Then the under dash brackets for the brake pedal and MC got tore out.
Once that was out on the bench the MC studs were removed, bracket holes re drilled 3/8” higher and studs re-welded. The studs and offset block is now 3/8” higher on the bracket, which will raise the MC the amount I need.

And new holes drilled on the firewall for the bracket. The offset block now sits tight against the horizontal body ledge. That’s all I got done today, tomorrow is another day and we’ll get the clearance a guy needs on the steering column / valve cover edge.

A guy has to admit though that there is just NO room left over at all. And to think that Dude Hemi Denny does this all day long. Holy Smokes!

 

[HemiDenny]

You are likely already doing this, but to gain a little work room when installing the steering box w/ header in place, try lowering the k by loosening the K frame bolts to the max allowing the K to drop an extra 1/2" or so. Once the steering box is installed (header already bolted up) re-tighten the K frame bolts.

......the difficult gets done immediately....the impossible takes a day or two.

 

[HemiDenny]

more good news......flexible brake lines, at least the first 15" or so, from the master cylinder is damn near a must....if you ever want to service the #7 spark plug, yet alone remove the valve cover.

The Hemi pictured in the post above has a Passon 5-speed....so it had hydraulic clutch components added to the mix. Thank the Lord for the hydraulic throw outs. My silver Duster w/ 833 / GV overdrive has the mechanical crossbar, but not the Stage V heads / cast aluminum valve covers. They are very nice pieces in looks and performance......but add additional girth to an already tight conversion.

 

[abdywgn]

reply to post #386 picture of engine hoist: need another choice for comments that says "NICE!"
flex hoses on the brake lines at the master, thumbs up.
do you have spacers between the k-frame and the body? I've got a set a friend made for his swap, thinking they are 3/8 to 1/2"?

 

[Malex]

reply to post #386 picture of engine hoist: need another choice for comments that says "NICE!"
flex hoses on the brake lines at the master, thumbs up.
do you have spacers between the k-frame and the body? I've got a set a friend made for his swap, thinking they are 3/8 to 1/2"?

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Yes the cherry picker for a trans jack is the best. Just have the trans standing on end, roll up to it and slip the end in, bolt and up you go.

Today the under dash bracket went back in followed by the hemi back in place and then the transmission back into place afterwards. And after all that I still have only 1/4” space between the valve cover and the master cylinder. But that is enough!

I do plan on removing the transmission again to install a front billet drum but it can go into place so that I can finish all the first time stuff like making lines, cables, header install, etc.
I’m wondering if the transmission drops down between these TTI headers - anybody... I’d hate to have to drop a header again. On my RB wedge with TTI the trans comes out easy.

Hemi going back in again today. This time it is in to stay.

Trans going back in for the time being, for mock up.

Tomorrow is header install day and so on.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Did your trans bolt up to the trans mount without any mods? I was looking at the TTI site and according to their engine to firewall distance I would have to shove my engine back and modify the mount. I know all these cars are a bit different, thinking my firewall may just be back a touch so I consider the trans mount to be more accurate. PS, I shortened my column and used a solid bushing RMS sells for clearance with the previous hemi.

 

[Malex]

Did your trans bolt up to the trans mount without any mods? I was looking at the TTI site and according to their engine to firewall distance I would have to shove my engine back and modify the mount. I know all these cars are a bit different, thinking my firewall may just be back a touch so I consider the trans mount to be more accurate. PS, I shortened my column and used a solid bushing RMS sells for clearance with the previous hemi.

View attachment 1715604772

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My rear crossmember did not need any mods. I’ll attach a pic at the bottom where you can see. I used the TTI measurements to set mine in place and the headers fit perfect. It looks like you’re using the same black as I have for the MC. Not sure what heads you’re using or valve covers but I moved my MC mounting studs up 3/8” and I needed that extra space. Now my offset block is tight against the body ledge that is above the MC on the firewall.

You can see the crossmember on the one side and the mount stud sticking through

I used these measurements, which worked out.