Well this 1968 Dodge Dart Project is finished. I can see a different exhaust system being built, probably next winter but other than that, this one-man at-home build is finished. Good luck with everyone’s builds! Some finished pics and a link.
68 Dart Project.
- Thread starter Malex
- Start date
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That's Damm Sweet!
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
Ohhhh my....some kind of beautiful. Artwork. Thank you for sharing.
CarfinaticII
Under Construction
Absolutely beautiful! Great work and sounds amazing!
abdywgn
dismantler
Beautiful!
Just stunning! I followed most of your posts along the way, and I am in awe of your expertise. Congratulations.
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Thanks for following along , it is appreciated. I updated this thread regularly throughout the build. For some guys who are unsure or perhaps their first big job it may help them with planning, process and what not. The important point of it all is that there’s not much that can’t be done by ourselves right at home in our own garages. It’s not why we can’t do something, it’s how we can!
Have fun with your projects!
Can you elaborate a little about your intake burst valves?
Tbone416
Well-Known Member
Nice!!!!
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Intakes with flat floors are prone to fuel pooling. Usually from pumping the throttle, which can lead to a pretty good backfire. The burst valve will blow open to alleviate the pressure, reducing the possibility of damaging a manifold, especially if the carb(s) are depressed. These valves have an o-ring for sealing and the spring pressure just slams them shut again.
This is a 440-25 Indy intake that I used to run on my max wedge car. It’s got a very flat floor and I’ve experienced numerous back fires with it. There’s a knack to starting them, I never mastered it though.. I purchased this intake used, and it already had these burst valves installed on each side of it. These particular burst valves have a thin layer of pop or beer can aluminum that would just tear apart during a backfire and a guy would have to replace the torn aluminum before starting. A good reason to stop and have a beer for the patch. Haha. The COMP decal is pasted on top of the aluminum.
There are lots of fellows that have had pretty good backfires resulting in a top plate being blown off, threads being pulled out of the intake, some fellows have had the epoxy inside of reworked intakes broken loose, some have had fires. Back to my hemi intake, I chose to make these burst valves just in case.
And it did turn out that I had 2 wires crossed and sure enough, I had a backfire on the Dart. The left side valve slammed open and I know they work. Hope this helps, lots of guys have stories about this topic.
Thanks much. I have a cross ram for my 340 not yet mounted and there are similar horror stories about the explosions you mention. That's why you don't find too many original sbm crossram top plates. Something I'll definately want to revisit when the time comes.
67DodgeDart360
Well-Known Member
Best looking Dart on here! Thanks for all the information you gave me. Much appreciated!
RBConvert
Well-Known Member
Thanks for taking the time to document your build. I gained some great ideas from this thread.
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
Agree, this is an absolutely epic thread! Is helped motivate me to work on mine.
Ive had the Dart out for a few test drives now. Absolutely fantastic. Major traffic distraction too. Some pics as usual..
Before it hit the road the side exit exhaust system came off and a new 4” system went under it.
A pair of 4” Hooker mufflers went under ahead of the Dana.
Then a pair of 4” DynoMax Race Bullets went under after the Dana. The tips are slash cut and tipped upward. Barely noticeable from behind the car, vision only though, sound is the best I’ve heard ever.
The Hemi Dart got some Mopar company in the garage, the Belvedere came home out of storage, racing season is upon us.
A closer look under the hood of the Dart. The glass hood is held up by gas struts tucked in behind the fenders. Opens and closes with 1 finger. Also built a air damn under the front bumper that kicks air up into the rad core.
A couple of shots of the Dart out in the sun.
Pulling in after being out for a little cruise. First problem I encountered was the rear tires are useless. This Hemi is amazingly responsive. Will build a razoo shroud one of these days, running pretty cool but getting that fan blade covered would be a good thing.
Before it hit the road the side exit exhaust system came off and a new 4” system went under it.
A pair of 4” Hooker mufflers went under ahead of the Dana.
Then a pair of 4” DynoMax Race Bullets went under after the Dana. The tips are slash cut and tipped upward. Barely noticeable from behind the car, vision only though, sound is the best I’ve heard ever.
The Hemi Dart got some Mopar company in the garage, the Belvedere came home out of storage, racing season is upon us.
A closer look under the hood of the Dart. The glass hood is held up by gas struts tucked in behind the fenders. Opens and closes with 1 finger. Also built a air damn under the front bumper that kicks air up into the rad core.
A couple of shots of the Dart out in the sun.
Pulling in after being out for a little cruise. First problem I encountered was the rear tires are useless. This Hemi is amazingly responsive. Will build a razoo shroud one of these days, running pretty cool but getting that fan blade covered would be a good thing.
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68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
Let’s see some videos!!
4mopwr
Well-Known Member
Nicely done Malex!
Do you have any pics or info of your hood prop struts?
Thanks, John.
Do you have any pics or info of your hood prop struts?
Thanks, John.
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I used 15” (extended total length) 75Lb struts. The distance from the factory hinge pivot pin to the strut ball is 7”.
I don’t have a finish painted picture. I also made collars with a set screw to lock the hinge on the pin. Hinged type Fibreglass hood and scoop is probably around 26 to 30 lbs. one finger opening and closing.
4mopwr
Well-Known Member
I will also be using a hinged fiberglass SS hood, so this information will help.
Thank you for the info.
Thank you for the info.
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Your welcome, trust me, this will save you a lot of time and experimenting. Just determine your lower strut ball hole in behind your interior kick panel. Good luck!
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