68 Dart Project.

[Malex]

Quick question, did you use k member spacers?

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Merry Christmas 68 HG!
No I didn’t need to. Everything has clearance. The idler arm stud that goes through the drag link got a slight grind on a 45 angle above the cotter pin hole. Even got a 16 X 3” air cleaner under the scoop including the 1/2” shear plate under the carb.

 

[mopowers]

I love this build! I noticed what looks like a stock mopar alternator. Do you have a close-up photo of how it's mounted? Thanks!

 

[Malex]

I love this build! I noticed what looks like a stock mopar alternator. Do you have a close-up photo of how it's mounted? Thanks!

I love this build! I noticed what looks like a stock mopar alternator. Do you have a close-up photo of how it's mounted? Thanks!

I love this build! I noticed what looks like a stock mopar alternator. Do you have a close-up photo of how it's mounted? Thanks!

I fabricated my alt bracket. AR Engineering also sells an alt bracket for their motors plates that you can check out on line.

Mine is made out of 1X2 tubing, angle cut, capped. 2 bolts through the engine plate, nuts on the back side, then a 3/8” bolt through a 3rd hole in the engine plate. Basically I found where the alternator would mount and allow adequate swing for belt adjustment.

I built one similar a few years ago on my wedge, just a light weight alt. The bracket on my wedge has a stud out the front that the alternator bolts to. 6 lb alternator, stud worked well for that design.

 

[mopowers]

Thanks a lot! I'm gathering ideas for mounting an alternator in my BB 66 Dart. Space is pretty limited being an early-A, but your pictures help a lot! I often find myself going back through this thread for ideas. I still can't believe how quick you built it! Do you even have a job? lol

If you don't mind, I have a couple more questions.

What size tires are on you running out back?
Do you run a return fuel line?
What upgrades did you do to the 727 to make it live behind the big hemi?

 

[Malex]

Thanks a lot! I'm gathering ideas for mounting an alternator in my BB 66 Dart. Space is pretty limited being an early-A, but your pictures help a lot! I often find myself going back through this thread for ideas. I still can't believe how quick you built it! Do you even have a job? lol
Yes space is an issue but it all fits and is a challenge. Just bank on some TTI’s, you won’t regret it.
Nope, no job. I’m retired. The Dart is a winters project to keep me busy. The plan was to make it last 3 years and I’m on target. This year is a drag out winter.

If you don't mind, I have a couple more questions.
What size tires are on you running out back?
Rear tires are 29.00X15.00 SR Radials on a 15X12 rim, 4.5” BS.
7/8” space between the inner tub and tire bulge.

Do you run a return fuel line?
1 fuel line deadhead to the front. Return line off the pump feeding back into the cell. #8 line from the fuel cell into the carb bowls.

What upgrades did you do to the 727 to make it live behind the big hemi?
Red clutches. Toluene steels, A&A ultimate sprague, Billet servos, billet forward clutch piston. Billet steel jacket aluminum front drum, piston and retainer with 6 discs. Billet lever, strut, etc. Red bands. Race pump. Manual valve body and whatever I forgot. I’ve got both an 8 and 9” converter. Not sure which one will be going in yet.

 

[HemiDenny]

you gonna let your grandson / building partner pilot this one?

 

[Malex]

you gonna let your grandson / building partner pilot this one?

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Haha. Can’t see that happening anytime soon. At this point the Dart will be my occasional cruise car and at some point it will make the odd pass. My camp doesn’t run on entitlement like most kids expect nowadays. He’s got to earn it. Besides, he’s always got anything he rides on the redline and pointed at the sky. I already know he’d be in trouble, on the roof or something come 16. Nope for him I’m starting him off right and the plan is made.

This is his first car. My Buddy is holding it for him and as soon as the border re-opens we’ll scoot over and bring it home for him. He’ll be 14 in May, 2 years to get it ready for the road.

There’s no rust on this little signet, just some good sized dents and I’ll help him master a stud weld dent puller.

His plan: Body made straight and left in patina & primer. 2 racing buckets, no back seat, gauges and a shifter. 360 auto. Warmed up some, narrowed Dana, mini tubbed, skinnies and 10’s under the back. Headers, mufflers right behind and no tail pipes for the drone effect. Perfect for him, he wants to hang with his buddies in some parking lot and be the cool hot rodder dude. Amazing rock solid Valiant, all stainless is mint, license plates on it expired in 1976. Yep, this is perfect for that little Mr. Rammypants.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

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Merry Christmas 68 HG!
No I didn’t need to. Everything has clearance. The idler arm stud that goes through the drag link got a slight grind on a 45 angle above the cotter pin hole. Even got a 16 X 3” air cleaner under the scoop including the 1/2” shear plate under the carb.

View attachment 1715641163

View attachment 1715641166

Merry Christmas Malex, thanks for the info. I think I’m going to switch my car to TTI’s. I had hookers on it but they are pretty rough. They fit horrible and at the time I didn’t realize that the original cars used k frame spacers. So I modified them accordingly..

 

[Malex]

A little progress on the Dart Project..
Got the transmission back out. Making some additional upgrades before it fires up. While out I came across some questionable threads so in went heli coils.

A billet rear drum piston went in. Endplay clearance with the stock piston was on the high side, not no more.

The stock front drum got replaced with an aluminum/steel jacket unit. 6 discs, billet piston and retainer will take care of the extra HP. Insurance!

Then along came a MP Cross Ram that I just couldn’t let slip by. Showed up today.
Still in it’s original MP box. Barn Find!

Still wrapped in the original newspaper. Note: Chicago, Apr, 2000

Came with unopened hardware, gaskets, instructions and Mopar decal.

Tops bolted on. Need to flatten out the new gaskets for awhile. Intake will be reworked internally, epoxy, before it gets bolted on.

This intake should be good to drag out most of the remainder of the winter. Guess I won’t get much use out of this ported Ray Barton intake and 1250 Dominator and could lose some HP, but plans are to make this cross ram very comparable performance wise.

And a new decal to finish the project. Very fitting, especially now with the cross ram.

Merry Christmas everyone!

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I’ll be curious to follow along as you modify the intake. I’ve tried to get info on Mods but no one shares. I port matched mine and ran it on my 505. It worked good, I street drove the living hell out of it as well as raced it. If you sell the single plane let me know. I’d like to add one to the collection.

 

[Malex]

I’ll be curious to follow along as you modify the intake. I’ve tried to get info on Mods but no one shares. I port matched mine and ran it on my 505. It worked good, I street drove the living hell out of it as well as raced it. If you sell the single plane let me know. I’d like to add one to the collection.

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These intakes are known to leave lots on the table so to speak. But yet there’s guys out there making big hp with them and fast!
I’m pretty confident that this one will turn out well. Carb mods play a big part in getting them to rock.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I was looking through my phone and realized I have more pics of your dart than I do my own! Lol

 

[Malex]

I was looking through my phone and realized I have more pics of your dart than I do my own! Lol

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Well I have to take that as a compliment! Thanks!!
I haven’t posted for some time, although things have continued to move forward slowly. I had this hernia that I had to deal with but I’m on week 5 of post op recovery now and getting back at it. So what the hell, some update pics..

Been putting in the hours inside of the intake. Inside work is done now, next will be port matching. Can’t do that till I set the intake into place and marked for port matching. Can’t do that until I get the transmission back into place and engine levelled out.

Rounded up the proper carbs, 4235 and 4236, got those ready to go, linkages and burst valves made and waiting for a couple more jets to show up and a fitting.

Parts showed up from A&A yesterday. Decided to go with a new valve body and billet front servo before it goes back in.

Transmission is back together.

Ready to slide in under the car and up into place.

Grabbed a pic of a PPP shifter that is on order. It
will finish the interior off.

And that’s about it for over here for now. Thinking that a guy could easily install a couple studs into the heads and lower that cross ram down over to hit the mark. Anybody done that before? I will definitely be using a cherry picker.. Not sure I can get past the valve covers neither but will give it a try.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

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Well I have to take that as a compliment! Thanks!!
I haven’t posted for some time, although things have continued to move forward slowly. I had this hernia that I had to deal with but I’m on week 5 of post op recovery now and getting back at it. So what the hell, some update pics..

Been putting in the hours inside of the intake. Inside work is done now, next will be port matching. Can’t do that till I set the intake into place and marked for port matching. Can’t do that until I get the transmission back into place and engine levelled out.
View attachment 1715669861

Rounded up the proper carbs, 4235 and 4236, got those ready to go, linkages and burst valves made and waiting for a couple more jets to show up and a fitting.

View attachment 1715669856

Parts showed up from A&A yesterday. Decided to go with a new valve body and billet front servo before it goes back in.
View attachment 1715669858

Transmission is back together.
View attachment 1715669857

Ready to slide in under the car and up into place.
View attachment 1715669855

Grabbed a pic of a PPP shifter that is on order. It
will finish the interior off.
View attachment 1715669854

And that’s about it for over here for now. Thinking that a guy could easily install a couple studs into the heads and lower that cross ram down over to hit the mark. Anybody done that before? I will definitely be using a cherry picker.. Not sure I can get past the valve covers neither but will give it a try.

I use to muscle mine on and off. Post herniated disc I’ll probably be coming up with a smarter option to manage my cross ram as well..

 

[abdywgn]

like the valve lash note on the mirror...I used marker on the drywall in Mom and Dad's garage.

 

[Malex]

I’m back. Even though I fade away I’m still busy on this 68 Dart Project. Updates..

Finished up the porting on the Mopar Crossram now. That was a lot of hours and 3 intake gasket sets later to get things right.
This pic, ready to drop the crossram on.

Intake is now in place. Masking tape to eliminate the possibility of something sliding down in. Took about a dozen re torques before things took a set. Once it’s run in for awhile it will come apart and get another re-torque.

Top plates installed now. 1” spacers will be used and that’s a set of home made burst valves for just in case.

Back together now, still waiting for one carb fitting though. Yes the air bells do fit under the scoop. These are actually B body max wedge air bells.

Fabricated linkage worked out great. Those took me lots of hours to build. Will run 2 X 9” air cleaners for the majority of the time.

Anti freeze is now added and the hood no longer requires a hockey stick prop rod. Happy with how the hood ended up,. The hood hole needed to be modified but I’m extremely pleased how it worked out. The hood also lifts and closes with one finger and drops over the 4 pins perfectly.

The fuel cell also got fuel for the first time. Added a can and a half so far and fuel gauge registers 1/2 tank. Perfect.

And a new 1000CCA battery went into the battery box today.

Getting close gents! Once the PPP shifter shows up and gets installed it will be time to fill the transmission and fire this bad boy up!

 

[abdywgn]

Looks great!
What did you do to ensure the intake bolts do not back out and rattle into a cylinder?

 

[HemiDenny]

that HDK recessed bulkhead didn't get in your way did it?

 

[Malex]

that HDK recessed bulkhead didn't get in your way did it?

It will only get in the way when I’m working under the dash.

 

[Malex]

Looks great!
What did you do to ensure the intake bolts do not back out and rattle into a cylinder?

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My plan is to do routine mtce on them.

 

[mygasser]

maybe when you take the top off to retorque them pop each one out in turn and loctite them.
neil.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

They don’t move once torqued. I drove mine all over on the street and never had any issues.

 

[Malex]

They don’t move once torqued. I drove mine all over on the street and never had any issues.

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When I first bolted the intake on I re-torqued them at least a dozen times. They sat overnight during that time period before finally not taking any further tightening. Once it’s run a couple times and brought up to temp I’ll recheck them. An experienced Hemi friend tells me that he checks his annually. That’s wise advise to me, that’s my plan.

Now I’m not sure about all Hemi heads but my victor heads have the 1/4” intake holes only threaded 1/2” deep. So 8 to 9 full turns max before running out of thread. The recessed hole at the top for the bolt head was anywhere from .220 to .430. Needless to say special attention and individual bolt length alterations were needed. 1/2” of thread sure isn’t very much going into aluminum. I could sure see some fellows bottoming out and thinking their intake is at torque. My hemi Buddy told me that he drilled and threaded his intake bolts holes right through. Smart.

 

[abdywgn]

not by personal experience but a friend's cross ram Duster lost a bolt into the engine. Not sure how his was put together but maybe the bolt itself was inferior material. I don't know if safety wiring them is a plan or not...guess that could mess up mixtures. From the looks of the picture, a plate over the top of the bolts would prevent them from being digested. Not sure how, I just have ideas...

 

[Malex]

not by personal experience but a friend's cross ram Duster lost a bolt into the engine. Not sure how his was put together but maybe the bolt itself was inferior material. I don't know if safety wiring them is a plan or not...guess that could mess up mixtures. From the looks of the picture, a plate over the top of the bolts would prevent them from being digested. Not sure how, I just have ideas...

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I share your thoughts on coming up with something. Perhaps a dab of locktite like mygasser mentioned is a good idea on the final torquing.