68 valiant signet

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kursplat said:
heavens, what were you thinking? :eek: ... uh, any pics of the anglia? asking for a friend
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i haven't i'm afraid but it's like this

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dang, i like that. looks a bit like my datsun 510 wagon
 
MG, that thing looks like it was "quite" the interesting ride down that ¼. Was it a handful or? Cool, what'd it turn, engine etc.?
 
Joe Mc said:
MG, that thing looks like it was "quite" the interesting ride down that ¼. Was it a handful or? Cool, what'd it turn, engine etc.?
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it ran straight as a die right out of the box as it happens. we just got lucky with how we set it up. it had an almost stock 390 ford fe, c6 with a 3000 stall tc and a 9" with a spool and 4.11 gears. you could take your ands off the wheel at the big end and brake or floor it and it just ran straight. it would've took much more power for sure before being a handful. i sold it before i ran it much but it did a 12.4 shifting at 5500 as it misfired above that (bad dizzy). i was surprised at how much the mickey t et drags wrinkled when i saw the pics, they were at 15 psi as per suggestions with those. that pressure may have helped with top end stability too. it was a lot of fun and would wheelie on a dirt road :thumbsup:
 
Joe Mc said:
Thanks for reply, cool car. Can't keep em all forever:(
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yeah i built it to race in a class that you couldn't enter until you had a completed car built to their rules. i had to buy 2 pairs of slicks as they'd changed their tyre size rule during my build too. on completion i sent off for membership/entry and they 'didn't like' my car so i couldn't race it. i spat my dummy (pacifier?) out and sold it :rolleyes:
 
mygasser said:
on completion i sent off for membership/entry and they 'didn't like' my car so i couldn't race it. i spat my dummy (pacifier?) out and sold it :rolleyes:
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sounds like another "uhh, it's a mope are? we don't know how to factor those. better not let it race" things.
 
That's messed up. Build it to their specifications and then the don't like it:icon_fU:
Where do you live?
 
moparmat2000 said:
I do like fish n chips. Not so sure about the warm beer though.
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cold lager for me thanks, i don't do 'traditional' beers and ales. i like cider but it gives me a real bad head in the mornings.
and yeah we have real chips here in england, like fries but fatter :thumbsup:
what you'd call potato chips we call crisps, as they're well... crispy lol
 
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i started trimming the cracked dash pad today, offering up the new cap as i went. it's a pretty good fit now needing only light pressure from one finger in the centre to hold it in place. i'll clean/degrease the pad and inside the cap next and my plan is apply adhesive to the pad and cap, push it into place adding tape as required and lay some paperback w/shop manuals all along the top over a length of thick card. that should do it.
fingers crossed it goes to plan, there'll be pics either way :rofl:
 
as you may have seen i've fitted an explorer axle to my valiant. the parking brake is all but useless. i welded the looped end from the ford cables to the A body cables so they hook up to the parking brake levers and that all works fine. the problem is there is virtually no effort, which wouldn't be an issue if i hadn't converted my car to manual trans' also. so i need a parking brake that works. my car has the 'umbrella' type handle under the dash, i'm wondering if i'm not getting enough leverage ratio on it to make the effort it should. i'm not against fitting a tunnel mounted lever from another car as it's a driver/modified already so....
anyone come across this and how did you fix it?
cheers, neil.
 
the handle usually has a pretty good ratio vs how much the lever at the brake end needs to move. Have you had some one slowly pull the handle while you watch the brake end to see how much movment you get? too much slack in the cabling? parking brake mechanisum not adjusted right to start with? i don' t know, there's not a lot that can go wrong there.
 
Not familiar with Exploder axels so I'll assume the rotor is a hat type, e-brake shoes inside. Make sure all shoe components are good and adjusted so there's a slight "even" drag on both front & back shoe, backing plate shoe pedestals aren't grooved and a bit of white grease on flats. If they are grooved and not deeply you can flatten them, if deeply grooved build up with welds and level flat. Once you have even shoe grab back off star adjuster till you "just" stop hearing drag. Have someone pull cable directly from end of sheath = not at handle, one side at a time and note how much length needs to come out for engagement. Let's say an inch. Then, with handle cable at its cable sheath end, not connected to rear cables, pull out on cable under car and have someone slowly pull handle out and while you're pulling have them release handle. Then note how much cable length goes into sheath when they pull it in, let's say 2 inches. So with these things done you've established; 1- length of cable that needs to be pulled from each rear wheel to engage brake and 2 - length of pull "in" at handle cable end. Obviously you need to join rear cables with a cable end coupler (bulb ends of rear cables slide into center slot and become one loop to both rears), then a J-hook of sorts needs to be placed on handle cable end, this needs to have a length of threaded rod so you can give adjustment for tension/slack. Welding cables is not only difficult but sketchy, find "crimp" cable end stops or better if you can locate end clamps that have 2 screws, these provide great test fit because you can loosen and move on cable and tighten back up. Hard to explain these things, but I'll try...draw a circle with a line thru the center, then a small diamond dead center of the line, then a screw hole at each end. The circle splits, cable goes in diamond, screws secure cable in diamond. Wish I knew what these things are called... Once you get everything set and working wrap tightly the area of excess cable where you need to cut for length and use a cut off wheel gradually going around the cable in the direction "with" the spiral of the cable, so as to not fray it, working around and around gradually until it is cut clean. Then install a vacuum plug over the cable end to help keep it from fraying and give a finished look. Geez this is long, I hope it helps... Last thing/idea... if there's still no engagement you might have to either get a bigger pulley at the end of the handle pull tube, if possible to fit a bigger one, or craft a pulley of sorts underneath the car to provide more cable pull/leverage for engagement.

Sorry for length but hope these thoughts help. Can't wait to see what you come up with
 
cheers for the suggestions guys, pretty much covered all those thoughts already though. i'm leaning toward a floor mount lever rather than the existing umbrella type.
once i got fed up with the parking brake for today i took the pass' side front wheel off as the dent on the front edge was bugging me. as i'm not painting it yet/ever? i needed to make it better. it's not like i haven't got a perfect panel to replace it with :rolleyes:, just that the paint/patina wouldn't match with a white wing and door. yes i also popped the most out of the dent in the pass' side door too when i fitted the black door panels and armrests the other day. lastly as it actually fits now i installed the nos headlight bezel i've had for about 3 years, then adjusted the hood too for a better fit.
neil.

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the penny dropped and i don't know why i didn't think of it before, i'll just fit a hydraulic parking brake. easy to plumb inline with the rear brakes and more effort than a parking brake will ever need. i'll tuck the lever/handle, bracket, cylinder etc under the driver's seat so just the end of the lever sticks out to operate it. :thumbsup:
 
Neil, I helped these guys prototype the ford explorer to A body parking brake cables. The info including part numbers is in the 8.8 sticky thread. I think they are about $50.00 USD plus shipping for the pair.

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