68 valiant signet

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i forgot to mention something the other day when i made the plug wires and set the timing, my 318 must have an aftermarket balancer on it. as i'd said previously, i swapped on an early iron water pump with the inlet to the driver's side which partially obscures the (later) timing marks on that side. i also had (and fitted) the early timing tab as my damper has two slots which show tdc for either set of timing marks. result :thumbsup:
neil.
 
Always something... Ive been down that path before!
I was able to go mine lit off this afternoon, did the cam break in too. Nothing went sideways!!
 
i dug out the super stock scoop today and sat it on the air filters to get some idea of how much taller it'd need to be. that'll be about 2 1/2" then......mmmmmm.
i may cut it up a lot and narrow it at the same time, it won't ever look like what it started as so may as well see what i can make work. either that or i make/buy something else entirely. i think first job is cut the hood, get that fitted and go from there :thumbsup:
neil.
 
on the road by the weekend perchance? can never have enough green valiants running around :D
 
on the road by the weekend perchance? can never have enough green valiants running around :D
unfortunately not mate :(. i've still got seat mounts (and alter height of rear seat back), make a gear lever (once i know where i'll be sitting), axle perches to weld on, handbrake cables to alter and rear axle brake pipes to make up. and that's all i can think of right now. it will be asap though :thumbsup:
neil.
 
i made a start on the hole in the hood today. first was to make a template that fitted pretty close round the carbs etc, i drew underneath the card holding the sharpie vertical (ish). then transfer that to the hood with measurements and finally the first cut. i've cut slightly smaller on purpose, you can always cut more but if you cut too far one way due to a **** up with the measuring then you're done. next job is get ashley here to help me bolt it in place for final trimming.
neil.

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A peck here, a peck there and before you know it that last peck has been pecked. How do you eat an elephant? A bite at a time. Good progress and remember "any" progress is a step further.
Unfortunately we're not 1 hour car build shows. :thumbsup:
 
i've started the hybrid valiant/explorer ebrake cables today. i removed both rear cables so i can lube them before use (see pic) and i'll also reroute the front cable inside the chassis so it won't be in the way when i get round to doing chassis/frame connectors later on. i cut the 'loop' off of the end of each explorer cable and these will be welded to the valiant cable's end nipples (got that idea from here, thanks). i'll need to make a couple of tube spacers as the cables look like they'll be too long otherwise but that's easy enough (already found some suitable tube).
plus while looking for freeze plugs for clive's 383 i found one or those mr gasket stainless sleeve/chrome bracket coil cover sets so i fitted that to my black coil. i know i'm a tart, i even dug out a 'right size' brass freeze plug that fits in the end of the sleeve too for full poshness.
neil.

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handbrake cables made up and fitted and front cable rerouted inside the chassis. i had to unwind the valiant return springs off of the cables and wind the stronger explorer ones on instead. handbrake now works, tick.
ashley came round after work and we fitted and trimmed the hood so that's done too, woohoo
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neil.

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i went out to measure for the rear brake flexis earlier and remove the fittings from the explorer calipers and valiant T piece so i could get braided hoses made up at rally design. the explorers have a short flexi one side from the caliper then a hard line to the T the other side which doubles as the end of the flexi that side too. the chassis to axle flexi to that T is crimped to the T so as that was cut my plan was to replace both sides from the calipers to the valiant T with 2 longer braided flexis.
first though as i'm tight i thought i'd look to see if there was a way to blank off where the cut flexi attached to the explorer T. so after filing the brass block flat i drilled and tapped it for an m6 bolt, then made a copper washer from an offcut of my header gasket 2mm copper sheet.
so now i have 2 flexis i can use and i only need to attach them, the valiant T and a couple of shorter hard lines and the brakes can be bled. all with what i have here already and no money spent.
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neil.
 
today so far i've unbolted the rear axle for a few jobs to be finished. the perches need welding fully (i tacked them today), the front spring hangers needed drilling for 5/8" spring eye bolts to suit the ss springs and the shackle bushes are being replaced with poly bushes from prothane. once that's all done and refitted i can start running/making brake pipes and welding on tabs/bolts to secure them. pics later when i'm done for the day.
neil.
 
i had a good afternoon and it now has brakes and the clutch works too. reassembly went as expected and the brakes bled easily giving a nice firm pedal. i trimmed all the wheelnut shanks and wheel studs now the wheel fitment is finalised, i'd just doubled up on washers for mock up so that needed doing. making the brake pipes was easy as always, the right tools make all the difference giving neat perfect flares every time.
seat mountings are next and then it's driveable, looks like even with diy jobs to do i'll have it mobile by the weekend as planned.
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neil.

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it's great when you get a lot of projects moving along. i keep thinking i should buy one of those style flaring tools. then i think "how much more time do i have to use it? not enough", then i do some lines and kick myself for not just getting one :lol:
 
it's great when you get a lot of projects moving along. i keep thinking i should buy one of those style flaring tools. then i think "how much more time do i have to use it? not enough", then i do some lines and kick myself for not just getting one :lol:
i've been using that style of flaring tool for probably 40 ish years i guess and wouldn't use anything else. easy perfect flares every time on copper or steel pipe. i've got fittings to flare up to 5/16" (8mm) pipe which can come in handy. when i get past the point of using it i'll pass it to the kids to use.
neil.
 
yesterday and today i've been altering seats to tilt forward and making my own hurst shifter to inland shift lever adapter. i've decided to use the mercedes seats instead of the scorpio ones as they're just more 'recaro' than 'chesterfield sofa' if you get my drift. also the runners are nice and flat side to side unlike the scorpio ones which had very 'uneven' brackets. getting them to tilt was similar to the scorpio ones though, there are 4 bolts holding the backrest rigid so simply remove the rear 2 and loosen the front 2 and they tilt. the front 2 are loctited in their new position so they don't loosen and the seat base is a metal tray so the backrest bracket just sits in the tray. to suit the valiant floor i needed to make 1 2" tall spacer for the inner front bolt and drill 3 holes (the outer front bench seat hole is reused). i'll add (weld in) some 2mm plate under the inner holes as there's no strengthening there where it was a bench seat car. i've altered the second seat ready to fit hopefully tomorrow along with the new carpet. oh, i guess i should see what needs 'adapting' to fit the mercedes rear seat too.
next once the drivers seat was bolted down i made an adapter to mount my inland shift lever/stick to the hurst shifter. pretty easy, just a plate to bolt to the shifter with the top cut at the correct angle for a second plate to weld to it which is threaded to suit the inland lever bolt pattern. i removed the reverse lockout cable, button etc and grount the 'triggers' smooth before painting the lever with some silver and clear lacquer as the chrome was fubarred.
neil.

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i've decided to use the mercedes seats instead of the scorpio ones as they're just more 'recaro' than 'chesterfield sofa' if you get my drift...
lookin' good. this is what i'm picturing resides in a chesterfield home, so you definitely made the right decision :thumbsup:

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