68 valiant signet

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Gearhed73 said:
any reason why your going with coil overs instead of leafs?
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it's just more 'race car' with hairpins, panhard bar, coilovers etc than leaves, plus it'll all be adjustable.
my anglia wagon race car, which was an altered wheelbase gasser with the same setup drove great right out of the box. it launched straight, you could take your hands off the wheel and throttle on/off or brake (even at 100mph) and it drove dead straight. we didn't need to change a thing. just lucky? or planned? you choose, lol.
neil.
 
I get it. The two gasser style cars I've been involved with were leaf sprung... also dead nuts straight, pretty sure 8 degrees of caster helped us on that one.
 
i pressed the other top hat spacer onto it's spindle today and assembled that side hub,caliper steering arm etc. with my stash of bits from rally design i had 4 allen (cap head) bolts to hold the steering arms to the spindles as there was no room to turn hex heads due to a step they have. i still had to turn the heads down about 0.5mm and cut them to length for full thread engagement in the steering arms. then i just had to turn 2 spacers, again for the steering arms as the caliper brackets only bolt to 3 of the 4 bolt holes on the spindle so i had to make that thickness back up for everything to fit. i guess if i'd bought a conplete setup from speedway then i'd have had all the right bits but the way i've done it is roughly half the price so...... lastly today i made the trackrod with 'rose' joints (which i'll use on all the front suspension and steering), a length of tube and a couple of threaded insets.
here's a couple of pics,
neil.

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i'm collecting an A body 4 speed trans from a 69 dart this coming weekend. the guy has the trans, shifter, clutch linkage and driveshaft for £500 so a no brainer really. i just have to make a shift lever and a clutch pedal. i do want it 5 speed but i want it on the road more and my machinist guy is flat out with work since he's been allowed out again so it'll be a while before he can do the bellhousing. still i can save up for a tremec which'll be stronger than the t5 so there's another upside.
neil.
 
Always, always into the flake.. flake and clear, LOTS of clear cover it!
 
Gearhed73 said:
Always, always into the flake.. flake and clear, LOTS of clear cover it!
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yep, that little anglia got 11 litres of 2k clear that day. 6 with a bit more than an egg cup full of flake in each and 5 more of straight clear. i didn't thin any coats, preferring to flat a bit of orange peel but get better coverage of the big fairground flake.
neil.
 
i picked up the trans and parts friday as planned. i just need a shift lever and a clutch pedal both of which i'll make and alter the auto brake pedal at the same time.
good news is i've sold my wedding car to a mate who plans to do wedding hire so the old girl will get some use at last. it also means the valiant can go back in my garage to start on it again, woohoo!
neil.
 
i just ordered a speedmaster intake, it's their performer rpm air gap knockoff but so cheap. also a 600 brawler carb, again very cheap. then a pair of stainless headers off ebay, probably chinese at the price but i need a car to drive while i build the rat rod chevy truck and 32 roadster pickup so....
 
that's what i thought, with the tunnel ram i'd want to swap in bigger fuel line from the tank sender forward as well as a better pump. this way i can add those later when i've not got so much on the go, creep up on it so to speak.
neil.
 
I just did my sending unit/line upgrade. I used a factory style sending unit with a 3/8 feed. Ran new -6 line and used original for the return. Was not too big of a deal. I agree with getting it up and running and tweaking on it down the road.
 
that's it, i usually go with 1/2" line (sender included) to future proof a build. it's large enough to handle any upgrades (turbo maybe?) i may throw at them later on. major changes like the tube axle front end can then be done in the winter when it's cold and wet outside.
neil.
 
i've been out playing with my lathe this afternoon and made a set of hard nylon rings to centralise the pcd adapters i bought last year. then i noticed the studs on the adapters are 12mmx1.5 so the 1/2" unf nuts i've got won't fit. i caught one of the guys at rally design though before they closed and he's bringing 20 of the right nuts home with him so i can pop round tonight and get them. result
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neil.
 
i finally bit the bullet and ordered the 2800lb ss leaf springs today from summit. i've been asking about here in the uk for used spring packs i can seperate to add extra leaves into my existing ones but no luck. at least the ss ones will fit straight on and give some added stiffness which'll be handy when towing a caravan.
neil.
 
kursplat said:
do those have the larger front spring eye?
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to be honest i haven't a clue, lol. i'll make poly bushes for them on my lathe anyway so it doesn't really matter. i needed to get the springs sorted so i can radius the rear arches to fit the wheels which of course has to be done with the ride height set where it'll be. getting the gap even round the tyres is very important and i couldn't take any chances.
neil.
 
my stainless headers arrived to day from ebay (in america). not quite 2 weeks via the 'global shipping program' they use so not bad. the box was ripped open one end though so the collector bolts were gone and the gaskets are all bent up. a bit of tape around the ends/corners is all it takes for boxes to stay intact, but oh no that's too hard
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. anyway the headers are ok and not dinged up, i'll be doing that when i'm getting them to fit
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. here's some pics and 1 of the ss springs now i've spent 1/2 an hour getting the shipping stickers off
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neil.

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mygasser said:
here's some pics and 1 of the ss springs now i've spent 1/2 an hour getting the shipping stickers off
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i think getting all the stickers off was the hardest part of replacing mine. headers look nice
 
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