69 barracuda steerig coupler

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Buster U

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my stock power steering coupler hits the header tube and cant turn. someone suggested a different type of coupler. im stuck so any ideas will help. car is ready to go except for the steering coupler. thanks in advance for any idewa or info to resolve this problem. buster
 
Buster U said:
my stock power steering coupler hits the header tube and cant turn. someone suggested a different type of coupler. im stuck so any ideas will help. car is ready to go except for the steering coupler. thanks in advance for any idewa or info to resolve this problem. buster
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I'm sure they're talking about a U-joint coupler, that's everybody's answer.
Although it's a bit smaller, it's not drastically so. About 1 5/8" diameter for a Borgeson u-joint vs 2" for the stock coupler, which gives you 3/16 extra clearance on each side. Plus, you have to cut and drill your steering column shaft for a u-joint; it's not a bolt-on fix.
You probably just need to dimple the header tube. Don't be afraid, people do it all the time for column clearance, and steering linkage/torsion bar clearance. Consider yourself lucky if you only have to dent the one place.
 
I would try to move engine to try to gain clearance first. Loosen motor mounts, raise engine, see if it can be nudged over or rotated. Shims between motor mounts and K frame might help. Make sure motor mounts in good shape.
 
I have the same year car with power steering and had the same issue. Since the coupler is rectangular it was only hitting in 4 spots when turned. Instead of denting the header we filed down a bit of the top of the 4 corners of the coupler. It will depend on how much clearance you need and where it's hitting though.
 
ok guys thanks for the info. does anyone know the correct number of splines on the power steering worm shaft. mine measures .625 (5/8 in) diameter. im quessing its 36 as thats all i can find with the 5/8, inch diameter
 
5/8-36.
If you get a different coupler or U-joint, make SURE you get the Chrysler splines- there is also a 5/8-36 GM spline, but the splines are a different shape and will NOT fit a Chrysler steering box. Cheap generic EBay couplers are almost always GM spline, so unless it is clearly stated that it fits Chrysler I'd avoid it.
 
ya mon, tkz for the heads up. i will be buying either a borgeson or a flaming river. just will have 2 make sure it has the chrysler spines. as a side note not about cars. my youngest son played football for wisconsin in the early/mid 90s. he was a captain ond on there wining rose bowl team then the nfl. thanks again professor
 
There is roughly 1/2" of movement in the motor mounts on the engine side.
 
I agree with the engine movement! However with time it will find its way back to Natural center! No mater how hard you tighten the factory mounts!
If using a motor plate a different world! JMO!
 
Mine hasn't moved, if it does, the pan hits the rack and pinion.
 
1969383S said:
I agree with the engine movement! However with time it will find its way back to Natural center! No mater how hard you tighten the factory mounts!
If using a motor plate a different world! JMO!
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Put a Schumaker Torque Strap on there it won't move, will keep its position
 
340sFastback said:
I would try to move engine to try to gain clearance first. Loosen motor mounts, raise engine, see if it can be nudged over or rotated. Shims between motor mounts and K frame might help. Make sure motor mounts in good shape.
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Same past situation, shims etc, but still damn close, too much heat for the box was still too close to the header, Which would have eventually wiped the box out
Eventually went to a 16:1 manual box with a $200 adapter to the power column
 
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