'69 Barracuda T56 swap, floor, cross member

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72bluNblu said:
Yeah I’ve gotten into the habit of starting those bolts before I even attach the upper column mount, seems like sometimes it just gets in a spot it doesn’t want to come out of.

As far as the plunge resetting it, maybe the steering coupler was holding it up? I dunno. Way to stick with it!
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Yeah I had set screw in coupler tight to steering box splines and pin in coupler to keep shoes from coming out. So I know those shoes slid in that coupler. And cap on coupler with bent over tabs still on there tight.

Looking into why reverse lockout module stopped working now? Internal fuse of lockout box has 12 volts both sides of fuse. Need to test if lockout solenoid is getting voltage or not next. It was working when I first wired it up now solenoid not being activated?
 
Added terminal connectors so I can test for voltage to solenoid. With ignition on both sides of module fuse get 12 volts. With speed sensor connected to trans, 12 volts to module, solenoid wires have no power. So module no longer works will have to contact Silver Sport.

So for now solenoid wired to get power when ignition on. There is an inline fuse on power wire up by fuse box for safety purposes. So ignition on can put in reverse easily. Ok for now I just wanna see if car can move shift keep car within couple hundred feet from house etc.

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Splash shields put back on. I bought new hardware and seal kit but need to come back when its warm and strip shields epoxy prime ect not putting new stuff on dirty filthy parts. And one has small rust hole that needs patch butt welded in etc etc etc.

So for now need to keep front tires from slinging dirt rocks back on door hinges during test drives cause need to verify trans steering ect is working....

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Checked all fluids, nothing leaking under car, tightened lug nuts, put a seat in, took round trip on my 1/4 mile private road in my neighborhood. No sun visors glare no seat belts so slow and easy. So decided lets wash it. Then did another loop. Got up to 30 mph its smooth. Trans and clutch seem excellent. Steering wheel crooked, some times exhaust or something hits, but most time its smooth. I think forcing column up without egging holes causing some coupling shoes binding. Giant holes in firewall cause heat/ac unit not in. Shift handle position is so so nice love it!!

Total 1 mile on it and it made it back in garage and I dont see anything leaking. Still lot of shaking out needed but for first drive I say major success. I real happy with how its going its getting there....

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I call Silver Sport up tell them reverse lockout module has 12 volts on both sides of internal fuse but no voltage on wires to solenoid to trans. They say out of 1 year warranty but offered to sell me new one at discount? But web site says all parts in kit 3 year warranty? But they say no only the trans?
 
340sFastback said:
I call Silver Sport up tell them reverse lockout module has 12 volts on both sides of internal fuse but no voltage on wires to solenoid to trans. They say out of 1 year warranty but offered to sell me new one at discount? But web site says all parts in kit 3 year warranty? But they say no only the trans?
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Well that sucks. I have that module in my Duster, but I haven’t had any issues with it. Pretty lame of them to not replace it seeing as how it basically has no time on it, especially if their website says 3 year warranty
 
72bluNblu said:
Well that sucks. I have that module in my Duster, but I haven’t had any issues with it. Pretty lame of them to not replace it seeing as how it basically has no time on it, especially if their website says 3 year warranty
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Looking a little closer at Silver Sport web site Magnum kits only warranted for 12 months. Its the TKO and TKX kits that get the full coverage for 3 years. Good thing my clutch and transmission seem to be working well.

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340sFastback said:
I went ahead and ordered this unit and scrapping the electronic gizmo idea:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHVY7R4X/?tag=fabo03-20
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Interesting!

So it removes the reverse lockout solenoid and replaces it with a spring detent pin that should require some additional force to shift into reverse compared to shifting into 5th, but not as much as forcing through the solenoid?

Definitely curious about how well that works. 5th isn't exactly a "power shift" kind of gear so a little extra tension should be sufficient to keep you out of reverse, or at least give you an indication you missed the shift before you drop the clutch and go into reverse.
340sFastback said:
Looking a little closer at Silver Sport web site Magnum kits only warranted for 12 months. It's the TKO and TKX kits that get the full coverage for 3 years. Good thing my clutch and transmission seem to be working well.

View attachment 1716206458
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Well that's lame. Although to be honest those warranties aren't worth much in applications like this. It's too easy for the manufacturer to say "well you installed it wrong" and wash their hands of it. Unless it's insanely obvious is was a manufacturing defect I pretty much figure I'm SOL, especially doing my own work. It's a little easier to get the warranty coverage when you can point to a "professional shop" for the install work.
 
72bluNblu said:
Interesting!

So it removes the reverse lockout solenoid and replaces it with a spring detent pin that should require some additional force to shift into reverse compared to shifting into 5th, but not as much as forcing through the solenoid?

Definitely curious about how well that works. 5th isn't exactly a "power shift" kind of gear so a little extra tension should be sufficient to keep you out of reverse, or at least give you an indication you missed the shift before you drop the clutch and go into reverse.


Well that's lame. Although to be honest those warranties aren't worth much in applications like this. It's too easy for the manufacturer to say "well you installed it wrong" and wash their hands of it. Unless it's insanely obvious is was a manufacturing defect I pretty much figure I'm SOL, especially doing my own work. It's a little easier to get the warranty coverage when you can point to a "professional shop" for the install work.
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I have one of those reproduction 4 spd reverse lights that gonna get bolted under dash frame. So it will light up red if shifted into reverse so that should help.

Lots of ppl say if car up to speed and attempt to shift into reverse its gonna grind not go in, so they say.

Saw some ppl remove solenoid hammer a freeze plug in hole. Others cut coil out of solenoid spring. Some say your gonna get killed disabling lockout. But where are all the stories some catastrophy happened when yahoos all over the world disabled it? And you really think delete kits could be sold if dangerous? Lawyers would be on that like white on rice.

As far as silver sport warranty, they were nice, didn't put me on hold, said could discount a new one. Building a custom car things happen. I am going the simple mechanical route now remove wires put plastic plug in tunnel hole.
 
340sFastback said:
I have one of those reproduction 4 spd reverse lights that gonna get bolted under dash frame. So it will light up red if shifted into reverse so that should help.

Lots of ppl say if car up to speed and attempt to shift into reverse its gonna grind not go in, so they say.

Saw some ppl remove solenoid hammer a freeze plug in hole. Others cut coil out of solenoid spring. Some say your gonna get killed disabling lockout. But where are all the stories some catastrophy happened when yahoos all over the world disabled it? And you really think delete kits could be sold if dangerous? Lawyers would be on that like white on rice.

As far as silver sport warranty, they were nice, didn't put me on hold, said could discount a new one. Building a custom car things happen. I am going the simple mechanical route now remove wires put plastic plug in tunnel hole.
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Sounds like a good plan to me! I have the Silver Sport lockout wired in so as long as it works I’ll rock that, but it’s nice to have some options if it stops working. I also have a reverse light wired in, I bought a factory one and put in on the dash. Not exactly sure why since nothing in my car looks stock but that’s what I did. I ran it without a light for awhile but I was having the opposite issue, finding 5th when I wanted reverse, and the light helps with that.

Good to hear Silver Sport was at least decent about the whole situation. Like you said, building a custom car with a crap ton of aftermarket stuff things just come up sometimes.

But yeah, I’m totally interested to hear how the fully mechanical version works for you!
 
Lockout delete arrived. Probably have to unbolt trans cross member drop trans to get solenoid out due to tight clearance.

Apparently comes with extra spring lighter tension. Ships with tighter spring installed. Once I get slimmer delete in I should have enough clearance to remove swap springs without dropping trans.

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Took car down road around 3 miles and turned around. Shut car off at home hooked up timing light and timing light no longer works? Then assist on PS stopped working? No noise, no leaks, belt tight, not low on fluid, fluid not foaming? Feels like manual steering? Bergman says remove fitting on back of pump see if debris in pressure valve?

Finally got car over where two post lift is so the crawling on the ground monkey business is over ...

Seems like starter squeal issue went away? I don't hear exhaust or drive train hitting body anymore? So those problems just disappear some how? Like car gods or something? Car is smooth going down the road trans and clutch feel good. Stepped on it a tad in second broke tires loose. Can feel rigidity of body from new floor and sub frame connectors.

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Took PS pump off car, took valve out, didnt look stuck, didnt look scored, squirted hole out with WD40, emptied reservoir, didnt see any debris in fluid. Put together, steering turns easy wheels of ground, wheels on floor still no assist? No noise, belt snug, no leaks? So the all new PS doesn't work anymore?
 
Had to lower trans to remove reverse lockout solenoid. Installed solenoid delete. I put the lighter spring that kit came with in delete before I put it in trans. I have to put second hand on shifter to get into reverse but with second hand to push it over its easy. No way to mistake 5'th for reverse. The delete unit is low profile on side of trans so if I wanna play with an even lighter spring can slide out without dropping trans.

Removed all the lockout wiring in car.

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abdywgn said:
Alright! One step forward...and the p/s?
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I took valve back out, smoothed outside of valve with 800 grit, took internal ball spring out of valve, cleaned valve good, put it together and assist is still dead.

Peter at Bergman says send pump back he will swap the reservoir he previously customized onto a new pump and send back.

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Was able to get some more clearance between tail pipe and frame rail. Was 1/8 inch maybe little less. Just put pressure on two bolt flange after muffler while tightening and that made pipe move away from frame rail a tad. Everything is easy with car on lift.

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rich_mc said:
Bummer about the extra effort but at least he's making it right, or at least trying to.
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I have had so many set backs and so many unexpected issues on prior major car projects at this point nothing phases me. Its like problems are gonna happen no matter how diligent careful you are using high quality parts from excellent vendors etc. ***** gonna go wrong its part of the game we are playing. Typical car project bull **** situation normal I am sure more struggles ahead. I just make sure I well rested proceed strategically. But eventually I will over come them all....eventually....
 
Wiped off thick layer of dirt grime dust from axle, gas tank, and trunk floor that got on there from from floor replacement work. Spare tire well was butt welded in by me around 2009.

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340sFastback said:
I have had so many set backs and so many unexpected issues on prior major car projects at this point nothing phases me. Its like problems are gonna happen no matter how diligent careful you are using high quality parts from excellent vendors etc. ***** gonna go wrong its part of the game we are playing. Typical car project bull **** situation normal I am sure more struggles ahead. I just make sure I well rested proceed strategically. But eventually I will over come them all....eventually....
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So true. The more aftermarket parts you put together the worse it gets. It's like "tolerance stack", in some cases it literally is the tolerances stacking up. In others its just that each aftermarket part is built to work with the original stuff, but each aftermarket part changes the function/performance of the original car just enough that when you add a bunch they just don't always quite work together they way that they should. Some work well together, others just clash.
 
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