JAndrea
Well-Known Member
Got my headers... friggin gorgeous.
69 Notch Barracuda - Rebirth
- Thread starter JAndrea
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61forfun
Well-Known Member
They look very nice. I have stock 340 manifolds and with a 4 speed it sure seems tight just getting a single collector to the manifold with the steering box, clutch linkage and torsion bar in such close proximity. I am always amazed when I see folks get headers installed, especially on BB cars. I actually installed a mini starter in mine which made me feeler better about gaining more clearance space and being able to pull the starter without yanking other things out. Are you going to run a min starter?
JAndrea
Well-Known Member
I do have a mini-starter. We'll see how it goes. supposedly they will fit my setup without modifications, but from what I've read, I won't be betting on it!
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JAndrea
Well-Known Member
With advice from a veteran, I've decided to pull the motor back out and bench test it. Which is something I should have done the first time anyway. So... I pulled the engine, detached the transmission, and removed the clutch and flywheel. I'm now waiting on a set of 8 mm Accel wires, and a few carburetor parts. The plan is to wire it up, bolt on the carb, and haul it to the dyno techs for break-in, leak testing, and performance figures, etc.. The place I'm bringing it said it only needs oil, plug wires, a carb, and a can of gas. We'll see... i'm waiting to set up an appointment until after I get it wired.
JAndrea
Well-Known Member
Anybody know if i need to purchase new flywheel and pressure plate bolts now? They were new before I torqued them. I'm assuming i should buy new ones.
JAndrea
Well-Known Member
I reestablished TDC on compression stroke (after a few oil pump primings over the last year or so) and pointed my distributor rotor at what I chose to be #1, tightened down the dist, then labeled #1, as well as the rest (according to counterclockwise firing order 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2).
Then I mocked up the spark plug routes today with the tti headers. Really happy with the black MSD wires and holders. The Accell wires I initially bought came with the distributor plugs already wired up (and the wrong style for my taste), so returning those, I thought it was a custom-cut kit
My workbench is a disaster since I had to find room for all the parts I recently pulled back off the motor
. I want more room for working on the wiring 
!!!
Then I mocked up the spark plug routes today with the tti headers. Really happy with the black MSD wires and holders. The Accell wires I initially bought came with the distributor plugs already wired up (and the wrong style for my taste), so returning those, I thought it was a custom-cut kit
My workbench is a disaster since I had to find room for all the parts I recently pulled back off the motor
. I want more room for working on the wiring !!!
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61forfun
Well-Known Member
That’s lookin’ like some kinda sweet power plant!! Easiest way on the dash wiring is to yank the dash and work on it on the bench. If your gas gauge is not working there is a mod out there for an electronic voltage reducer that works great. There are some backside dash pics on my album for you to gander at. Love the build you’re doing!
JAndrea
Well-Known Member
Thanks friend... and thanks for the dash tip. That is definitely in my future! Lookin forward to it. But that will HOPEFULLY be after I get her running and driving.
JAndrea
Well-Known Member
1 3 5 7 plug routing done. Very enjoyable process. Used the MSD tool for the cutting and a new Summit crimper, which works excellent.
61forfun
Well-Known Member
Friggin pure sweetness!!!
JAndrea
Well-Known Member
Passenger side plug routing... I just tried to think about keeping the plug wires away from the headers, while looking at previous pics to see where the engine sits... and trying to estimate keeping the wires tight enough so they wouldn’t rub too badly on the fender walls.
I have black heat-shield plug sleeves and clip-on wire numbers on the way.
Also.. another temp/perm labeling idea is to just use some heat shrink tubing i had sitting around.
View attachment 1715345067
I have black heat-shield plug sleeves and clip-on wire numbers on the way.
Also.. another temp/perm labeling idea is to just use some heat shrink tubing i had sitting around.
View attachment 1715345067
JAndrea
Well-Known Member
For those following this build, I’ve dyno’d the motor and am now seeking some advice on the less-than-expected performance figures after breakin and a dozen or so pulls.
And now I’m tearing apart the bottom end to start over with a different rear main seal approach. The two race engine builders in my area say they now machine all mopar big blocks to accept a Chevy main seal and retainer. Wish they’d have told me that a while back when my block was at the machining stage.
Getting the harmonic balancer off at the end of a long day battling the rotten boards on my deck was a real joy. broke the SECOND Oreily’s puller (bolt head popped off) (first Oreily’s puller set was bent by someone else), then went to the nephew again... for his Snap-on version of the puller. Nice unit. Finally did get it off... then promptly dropped it on the floor as it came off
I hope the neighbors kids were sleeping... mine just laugh
When I lose it in the garage
.
And now I’m tearing apart the bottom end to start over with a different rear main seal approach. The two race engine builders in my area say they now machine all mopar big blocks to accept a Chevy main seal and retainer. Wish they’d have told me that a while back when my block was at the machining stage.
Getting the harmonic balancer off at the end of a long day battling the rotten boards on my deck was a real joy. broke the SECOND Oreily’s puller (bolt head popped off) (first Oreily’s puller set was bent by someone else), then went to the nephew again... for his Snap-on version of the puller. Nice unit. Finally did get it off... then promptly dropped it on the floor as it came off
I hope the neighbors kids were sleeping... mine just laughWhen I lose it in the garage
.
JAndrea
Well-Known Member
FYI... the 383 is history.
After a bit of drama, and my lovely wife convincing me not to quit on it... the saga continues...
I’ve been back at it since just before the new year, when I purchased a running (yes, I actually saw it fire up and run in-person on the seller’s garage floor) 1977 motorhome 440, with 452 heads, and 55K miles on it. $600 or so.
Not concerned one bit about horsepower (I know it’s low on these stock late 70’s motors), I just wanted a good base level, non-rear-Main-seal leaking, running motor, for my last, best chance to get it on the road. This was my original plan anyway... and I veered way off coarse and decided I wanted to build the motor. Oh well, it was a great learning experience to say the least.
Just last weekend I fired it up in my own garage with a new O’reilly’s 4 pin ECU and the proper ballast resistor. I wanted to test all the wiring (starter and ignition components) outside of the car. It fired right up, with a little ‘starter’ liquid down the carb. Scared the crap out of me... open exhaust ports.. shut it down quickly... then smiled for a while, as the family came out to see what exploded in the garage and if I was okay
Since I bought the motor:
-sold a lot of the 383 parts (block is still for sale)
-separated and sold the 727 trans that came with the 440
-purchased/installed a new, externally balanced flywheel to match the cast crank (Brewers). Also measured face runout.
-purchased/installed crank pilot bearing, since there was no way in $&@* I was cracking open the long block and removing the crank to properly drill it for the input shaft (Brewers).
-measured and cut my transmission input shaft (made me a little sad, but no big deal at all).
-redialed the bellhousing from all angles and installed offset pins. Everything is right on and within specs.
-removed original dipstick plug and installed new A Body dipstick tube (I really hate installing these).
-removed original oil pan and installed my 699 pan (and pickup) from previous 383 project
-installed pressure plate from previous 383 project
-purchased new stock ECU and ballast resistor
Getting ready to mate the transmission to the engine, hopefully soon.
After a bit of drama, and my lovely wife convincing me not to quit on it... the saga continues...
I’ve been back at it since just before the new year, when I purchased a running (yes, I actually saw it fire up and run in-person on the seller’s garage floor) 1977 motorhome 440, with 452 heads, and 55K miles on it. $600 or so.
Not concerned one bit about horsepower (I know it’s low on these stock late 70’s motors), I just wanted a good base level, non-rear-Main-seal leaking, running motor, for my last, best chance to get it on the road. This was my original plan anyway... and I veered way off coarse and decided I wanted to build the motor. Oh well, it was a great learning experience to say the least.
Just last weekend I fired it up in my own garage with a new O’reilly’s 4 pin ECU and the proper ballast resistor. I wanted to test all the wiring (starter and ignition components) outside of the car. It fired right up, with a little ‘starter’ liquid down the carb. Scared the crap out of me... open exhaust ports.. shut it down quickly... then smiled for a while, as the family came out to see what exploded in the garage and if I was okay
Since I bought the motor:
-sold a lot of the 383 parts (block is still for sale)
-separated and sold the 727 trans that came with the 440
-purchased/installed a new, externally balanced flywheel to match the cast crank (Brewers). Also measured face runout.
-purchased/installed crank pilot bearing, since there was no way in $&@* I was cracking open the long block and removing the crank to properly drill it for the input shaft (Brewers).
-measured and cut my transmission input shaft (made me a little sad, but no big deal at all).
-redialed the bellhousing from all angles and installed offset pins. Everything is right on and within specs.
-removed original dipstick plug and installed new A Body dipstick tube (I really hate installing these).
-removed original oil pan and installed my 699 pan (and pickup) from previous 383 project
-installed pressure plate from previous 383 project
-purchased new stock ECU and ballast resistor
Getting ready to mate the transmission to the engine, hopefully soon.
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Back at it - awesome! !!
Jeff
Jeff
Glad to see you back at it. The road driven by mopars can be a windy treacherous one for sure!
Good luck!
Good luck!
JAndrea
Well-Known Member
Motor and tranny are in. Pulled the steering column and tried to install my long tube TTi headers... which would have worked (in theory) with my old 383... but a 440?? Hmmm... Long story made short... so close, but they weren’t going to work with my power steering, which I want to keep Back to researching... I knew Schumachers would work, but the information I’m getting is that these are increasingly hard to find (even new). So.. found out that TTi had a possible solution.. shorties. I sold the long tubes for $900 +shipping and purchased TTi shorties for about the same price ( they showed up yesterday!
I also pulled my mini starter, then purchased and installed the RobbMC starter, since TTi said this is the only starter that works with their headers on a 440, with manual transmission, and power steering. Once I compared the two starter layouts, and figured out the “clocking” mechanism on the RobbMC, it became clear just WHY this starter is so unique. Also, I did have to do some grinding on the block near where the starter mounts (RobbMC provides very handy pics and instructions). Anyway, starter is also installed. Next step... electrical.
I pulled the starter battery from my boat and put power to the 50 year old electrical system in the last week or so.
Purchased a new negative battery cable and bolted it to the drivers side head. Connected the original positive cable to the battery, and got after it.
For some history, this is the first time doing this with a car. I do have some electrical experience, since I completely designed and executed my own electrical system on my 1973 Yamaha RD350 some years ago. This taught me a lot about current and flow, amps, etc. Actually, the motorcycle project was purely intended as a learning experience for my ultimate goal of owning and maintaining my own classic car (look at me now, Ma!).
Before even getting started... I thought I’d give the headlight switch a pull. Nothing. Here we go, I said to myself...
Back to researching... I knew Schumachers would work, but the information I’m getting is that these are increasingly hard to find (even new). So.. found out that TTi had a possible solution.. shorties. I sold the long tubes for $900 +shipping and purchased TTi shorties for about the same price ( they showed up yesterday! I also pulled my mini starter, then purchased and installed the RobbMC starter, since TTi said this is the only starter that works with their headers on a 440, with manual transmission, and power steering. Once I compared the two starter layouts, and figured out the “clocking” mechanism on the RobbMC, it became clear just WHY this starter is so unique. Also, I did have to do some grinding on the block near where the starter mounts (RobbMC provides very handy pics and instructions). Anyway, starter is also installed. Next step... electrical.
I pulled the starter battery from my boat and put power to the 50 year old electrical system in the last week or so.
Purchased a new negative battery cable and bolted it to the drivers side head. Connected the original positive cable to the battery, and got after it.
For some history, this is the first time doing this with a car. I do have some electrical experience, since I completely designed and executed my own electrical system on my 1973 Yamaha RD350 some years ago. This taught me a lot about current and flow, amps, etc. Actually, the motorcycle project was purely intended as a learning experience for my ultimate goal of owning and maintaining my own classic car (look at me now, Ma!).
Before even getting started... I thought I’d give the headlight switch a pull. Nothing. Here we go, I said to myself...
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Have you considered a manual steering box, and adapting an EPAS (electric power assisted steering) setup under the dash from a toyota yaris? It requires only an ignition switched hot, and a ground to power it. Theres a few people on fabo that are doing this.
JAndrea
Well-Known Member
I began by stockpiling electrical diagrams. I found the diagrams in my manual to be fine, but research brought me to Ebay where I purchased an awesome laminated 11x17” color diagram. I also downloaded a pdf/CAD version where you can turn various circuits off/on on your PC. This was super cool, but not really useful, since the 11x17” can be placed on my fender while working.
I quickly found that the person who originally pulled the 318 engine, lord knows how long ago, did an incredible job NOT cutting a single wire. ALL of the original component wire connections were perfectly intact and dangling Willy Nilly throughout the engine compartment (thank you!). I was also working with the handicap of dreaded “all grey wires.” A previous owner painted the engine compartment grey... WIRES AND ALL.
As I began tracing the power flow from the battery to the bulkhead... I realized that the “J” terminal at the bulkhead connector was critical for power getting to the interior switches. As I pulled/pried the 3 bulkhead connectors away from the firewall, I, of course, broke one of the brittle tabs (not unexpected). I then noticed that the “J” male end of the engine compartment connector completely fell out of the plastic connector. Basically, all I did was open the “tooth” on the main power wire male connector, and clipped it back into the connector. I then ran a little wire wheel from my Dremel down into the connector to clean all the male ends, while being careful not to damage to old foam insulator. I would have liked to clean down inside every female end of the firewall connector, but I figured I could stop here and see where I was at. I also saw that those bulkhead connectors were like $90 each. So I JB Welded the plastic tabs and let them sit unplugged while I went back to the starter relay, which is the first component that gets power from the battery. Keep in mind... I didn’t even know what that “thing” was when I first looked at it... so that should give any newcomer reading this some comfort.
I quickly found that the person who originally pulled the 318 engine, lord knows how long ago, did an incredible job NOT cutting a single wire. ALL of the original component wire connections were perfectly intact and dangling Willy Nilly throughout the engine compartment (thank you!). I was also working with the handicap of dreaded “all grey wires.” A previous owner painted the engine compartment grey... WIRES AND ALL.
As I began tracing the power flow from the battery to the bulkhead... I realized that the “J” terminal at the bulkhead connector was critical for power getting to the interior switches. As I pulled/pried the 3 bulkhead connectors away from the firewall, I, of course, broke one of the brittle tabs (not unexpected). I then noticed that the “J” male end of the engine compartment connector completely fell out of the plastic connector. Basically, all I did was open the “tooth” on the main power wire male connector, and clipped it back into the connector. I then ran a little wire wheel from my Dremel down into the connector to clean all the male ends, while being careful not to damage to old foam insulator. I would have liked to clean down inside every female end of the firewall connector, but I figured I could stop here and see where I was at. I also saw that those bulkhead connectors were like $90 each. So I JB Welded the plastic tabs and let them sit unplugged while I went back to the starter relay, which is the first component that gets power from the battery. Keep in mind... I didn’t even know what that “thing” was when I first looked at it... so that should give any newcomer reading this some comfort.
Cool back story!
JAndrea
Well-Known Member
Oh, in the meantime, I also installed 1 1/2” lowering blocks in the rear. Sadly, the peg at the top of the block is 5/8”, but the hole in spring connector is 1/2” 
The look was pretty sweet, but I pulled them back out to decide if I was going to modify the peg size on the blocks or not.
The look was pretty sweet, but I pulled them back out to decide if I was going to modify the peg size on the blocks or not.
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JAndrea
Well-Known Member
I didn’t consider it, but good to know about it. I did consider swapping to manual, but I just DID NOT want to open yet another damn can of worms on this thing
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
When you get it all sorted, are you going to take it all back apart for paint? I love that 69 sunfire yellow. I plan on using that on my 67 notch.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Well being that others are proving the concept and fabricating the pieces, they are trailblazing it. Might make it easier for you to follow.
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