Edited my response to match your edit..... lolWalk easy bro, guess I did with my sawzall and hammer
Edited my response to match your edit..... lolWalk easy bro, guess I did with my sawzall and hammer
Thanks for noticing the edit lolEdited my response to match your edit..... lol
Yep, I even took some measurements so I can use the car afterwards lolRip it open like a bag of potato chips
Yep, slacker has retiredKeep peeling away and stay after it!
Thanks, I think I have a plan for that, I want to set the engine & trans back an inch so Ill have to do a little work on the firewall. Most likely cut & flange but I need to put some more thought into this, there's a lot that will need to be addressed.Nice work! keep it going. Make sure to work the tunnel area now for any clearances you foresee!
Yes, I need to figure out what I am going to use.Good time to mock up the driveshaft loop too. Mine was a pain trying to get it just right aftereverything else went in…. Especially the exhaust
Yes, I need to figure out what I am going to use.
I'd like to build a cross member with an integrated loop. 1 in the front and 1 in the rear.
Are you talking about the 1-5/8 tube loop ?That's a good thing to do while the suspension is disassembled and floor is removed. It is nice to have extra tunnel clearance in that area. If you measure carefully you can get a loop coped into the existing rectangle tube section of the cross member.
I went 1-5/8 on my charger due to this being a structural section. You have to be careful not to intrude into the seat placement or pedal box when doing a tunnel mod. Nothing worse than aedal box for size 6 feet lol.
Yes sir.Are you talking about the 1-5/8 tube loop ?
Cool, thanks JeremiahYes sir.
Yeah I will have to check my foot on the gas pedal. I need to make sure this pos isn't uncomfortable too lol.Following along, I'm at the same stage with the floors on my car. I think I'm going to cut the rest of the bellhousing bump on the firewall off, I'm done fighting with those bolts if I don't have to. So maybe look into that.
Don't bother moving the engine back any, trust me it'll be fine and the troubles you'll create, you'll regret having done that.Thanks, I think I have a plan for that, I want to set the engine & trans back an inch so Ill have to do a little work on the firewall. Most likely cut & flange but I need to put some more thought into this, there's a lot that will need to be addressed.
But I don't have to worry about ordering factory parts to modify, just make my own.
Is there enough tubing length to tweak the downbars below the weld to land on the T-bar crossmember and eliminate the added 2x3?I spent a few more hours in the garage today grinding all the spot welds and peeled up the rest of the floor.
As I got to the rear seat area, I realized there's a few things I can do to make my junk just a little bit better.
When I get there I'll take a picture and explain.
View attachment 1716189617
View attachment 1716189618
Okay thank youDon't bother moving the engine back any, trust me it'll be fine and the troubles you'll create, you'll regret having done that.
Yeah that could be redone.Is there enough tubing length to tweak the downbars below the weld to land on the T-bar crossmember and eliminate the added 2x3?
Does anyone know how thick a trans blanket and a bell housing shield deal is ? I just want to make sure I'm making it easier with clearance.
Yes 727, whatever I need in case it runs in the 9sThat’s kind of a hard question unless we know what direction you are heading. The transmission blankets have gotten much better and thinner over the years but the shields take quite a bit of room. Im
Guessing 727???