70 dart 470 ci drag car build.

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I put in a upper cross member for my shocks.
Also made a close off point and front mount for the wheel tubs.

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Last thing I did today was a rear tie in for my wheel tub. (Driver side). I ran out of gas for my mig...I need a way bigger bottle, I can't remember what my tig has 350 cf , it's huge heavy and costs over $100 to fill.....I need that, I have a 40 cf it is gone in about 8-10 continuous hours. Booooo !

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Thanks guys for following along. In a way you all have a certified cage.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Heck the engine is done, the chassis is certified, and I didn’t see any rules stating the body had to be back on. Throw the engine in it and send it.
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I have no assembled transmission yet, I still need a few parts for that & I have to build my dana still.
need a converter after I weigh the car & a driveshaft.
only problem is my lack of budget for those parts.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I have no assembled transmission yet, I still need a few parts for that & I have to build my dana still.
need a converter after I weigh the car & a driveshaft.
only problem is my lack of budget for those parts.
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Just be patient and take your time. It took me over 13 years to build mine as the budget would allow.
 
6PKRTSE said:
Just be patient and take your time. It took me over 13 years to build mine as the budget would allow.
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Yep, I have most of everything I need just trying to get it as far as I can before the weather turns.
I'm not worth a crap in the heat.
 
I would rather be hot and sweaty then be cold. However, I have had heat in my garage for over 20 years and about 5 years ago installed A/C. I can't believe I didn't do the A/C 15 years before that also. It is nice working on stuff and not dripping sweat everywhere. 70ish in the garage when it's 95+ outside is nice.
 
6PKRTSE said:
I would rather be hot and sweaty then be cold. However, I have had heat in my garage for over 20 years and about 5 years ago installed A/C. I can't believe I didn't do the A/C 15 years before that also. It is nice working on stuff and not dripping sweat everywhere. 70ish in the garage when it's 95+ outside is nice.
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Yeah id love to get a/c for my house and garage.
I definitely need to do some upgrades in my garage, like insulation and walls lol. I am very glad I bought a shop heater a few months ago.
I like heat when it's cold out but don't like heat when I can't control it.
 
Just a public service announcement about .120 erw steel tubing
If I wouldn't have put in the additional rocker bars my cage would have failed.
He measured my 1st rocker bar and it measured .109 the nhra spec minimum is .120 for mild steel. But the majority of the tubing was legal.
So you guys building cages take notes of that, it would be a crappy day if you had to scrap some of your cage. DOM would be the correct way to go for .120 wall but it should be checked also.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Just a public service announcement about .120 erw steel tubing
If I wouldn't have put in the additional rocker bars my cage would have failed.
He measured my 1st rocker bar and it measured .109 the nhra spec minimum is .120 for mild steel. But the majority of the tubing was legal.
So you guys building cages take notes of that, it would be a crappy day if you had to scrap some of your cage. DOM would be the correct way to go for .120 wall but it should be checked also.
Click to expand...
That's a good point. I think most kits are .134 wall because of this. They do that because at .134 they are still usually at least .120 at the thinnest point.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Just a public service announcement about .120 erw steel tubing
If I wouldn't have put in the additional rocker bars my cage would have failed.
He measured my 1st rocker bar and it measured .109 the nhra spec minimum is .120 for mild steel. But the majority of the tubing was legal.
So you guys building cages take notes of that, it would be a crappy day if you had to scrap some of your cage. DOM would be the correct way to go for .120 wall but it should be checked also.
Click to expand...


When this certification first started if I went and had my car checked and it failed you were blackballed and every surrounding track was notified. You couldn’t even race the car in a 13 second class where a cage wasn’t needed. Lots of cars for sale before certification attempts were made.
 
pittsburghracer said:
When this certification first started if I went and had my car checked and it failed you were blackballed and every surrounding track was notified. You couldn’t even race the car in a 13 second class where a cage wasn’t needed. Lots of cars for sale before certification attempts were made.
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Damn, I guess back in the old days my cage would have certed as a 7.50 car lol.
 
73smallblock said:
That's a good point. I think most kits are .134 wall because of this. They do that because at .134 they are still usually at least .120 at the thinnest point.
Click to expand...
Yeah he was happy when I told him it was a .134 cage but I added those other bars without knowing mill specs lol. Guess I learned something and didn't have to have it the hard way.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Just a public service announcement about .120 erw steel tubing
If I wouldn't have put in the additional rocker bars my cage would have failed.
He measured my 1st rocker bar and it measured .109 the nhra spec minimum is .120 for mild steel. But the majority of the tubing was legal.
So you guys building cages take notes of that, it would be a crappy day if you had to scrap some of your cage. DOM would be the correct way to go for .120 wall but it should be checked also.
Click to expand...
Assuming he used a sonic tester?

Was the tubing purchased through a local steel supplier?
 
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