plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Subscribed. Wish I still lived in Eugene, this would be a fun project to help with.
70 dart swinger slant turbo build and mild restoration
- Thread starter jungles82
- Start date
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Ok so the pipe I have which is 1 1/4 id isn't gonna work it will restrict airflow too much I'm gonna have to go back to the 1 3/4 and get the pipe even with the edge of the port so I won't restrict flow a toilet paper roll is the perfect size but I don't think it will hold up to the heat lol
Also I have a friend that has a plasma table and can input stuff into it so if anyone has a file I think it's a dfx file that can email them to me for the header flanges I'll make you a set and send them to you free of charge? He's gonna make them out of 1/2 inch I can probably have stainless ones built but u gotta cover the price of the metal I will pay him to cut them out I could also use the file with the different turbos flanges
Does anyone see a problem in the last pic with the 1 1/4 pipe that the inside diameter the ports are small enough already I don't wanna make them any smaller
Also I have a friend that has a plasma table and can input stuff into it so if anyone has a file I think it's a dfx file that can email them to me for the header flanges I'll make you a set and send them to you free of charge? He's gonna make them out of 1/2 inch I can probably have stainless ones built but u gotta cover the price of the metal I will pay him to cut them out I could also use the file with the different turbos flanges
Does anyone see a problem in the last pic with the 1 1/4 pipe that the inside diameter the ports are small enough already I don't wanna make them any smaller
Heck come on up not doing a whole lot yet just reading and some R&D
What do you think of my press work on the pipe it's my fancy 37 ton gas powered wood splitter with a block of wood gotta use what u have on the farm and I guess when your wife spends $1800 on something to make you work u find other uses for it lol
http://m.ebay.com/itm/T3-CAST-IRON-...-38MM-WASTEGATE-PORT-/151772439654?nav=SEARCH
bill will that adapter work or should I just build it into the header
Also thinking about trying to get these in mild steel
http://m.ebay.com/itm/T3-Turbo-Divi...Adapter-M10X1-25-Thr-/181975267421?nav=SEARCH
You do what you gotta do!
http://m.ebay.com/itm/T3-CAST-IRON-...-38MM-WASTEGATE-PORT-/151772439654?nav=SEARCH
bill will that adapter work or should I just build it into the header
The wastegate I use has a 90-degree turn from the main exhaust, like the one in your picture and seems to work fine, but, the instuctional books, now, all say to merge the wastegate supply-pipe with the main exhaust at a shallower angle (well, 45-degrees or less; not 90-degrees,) so, I dunno.... experience tells me that 90-degrees works OK, but the experts say no... :happy1:
Choose your own poison... LOL!
bill will that adapter work or should I just build it into the header
The wastegate I use has a 90-degree turn from the main exhaust, like the one in your picture and seems to work fine, but, the instuctional books, now, all say to merge the wastegate supply-pipe with the main exhaust at a shallower angle (well, 45-degrees or less; not 90-degrees,) so, I dunno.... experience tells me that 90-degrees works OK, but the experts say no... :happy1:
Choose your own poison... LOL!
Both the blow-off valve and the wastegate need to be correctly-sized for the application. If the blow-off valve is too small, it won't allow enough of the pressurized air to "escape" the system and damage to the impeller could ensue.
I am the wrong guy to ask about this stuff, because I am not well-versed in the vagaries of slant six turbo specs, and have, basically, "lucked out" with regard to my own stuff. I am not sure that having a waste gate that is "too large" could actually hurt anything; it just wouldn't have to open as wide to get rid of the excess exhaust. But, I am sure that there is someone on this FABO discussion board who would know the answer to these two very good questions.
One such guy's name is "PRINE," and he seems to have comprehensive knowledge of these systems and their spec-requirements. Maybe he'll see this question, and answer it. It's over my head (obviously!) Sorry... :banghead:
Duplicate post
The wastegate, when this picture was taken, was only on ONE leg of the manifold (header) coming into the turbo. It was moved forward about two inches, to the center of the collector so it would "see" all the exhaust. That was necessary because it was determined that having it only on one leg of the pipe coming into the turbo was giving it a false reading on the boost. It works fine, now.
I think the small hose that connects to the BOV was not yet connected to the nipple, when the picture of the carb hat was taken.
Hope this helps...
I built some 3 into 1 collector out of cardboard and made it 2 inch where it would meet with the flange just trying to figure out layout and stuff all 3 spots on the collector look like they will line up great with the ports plus when I'm done I can cut this apart and use it as a template. The bends are hard to make with the rolls but I'm just gonna continue the craft project tomorrow my wife and kids were looking at me like I'm crazy the last picture is my puppy we got we named her Cuda her mom's name was Hemi
So your bov looks like it has a pipe that comes off and exits out the bottom of the car
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So your bov looks like it has a pipe that comes off and exits out the bottom of the car
View attachment PART_1451371747484_IMG_20151228_200451.jpg
View attachment PART95145137175793495IMG952015122895200440.jpg
View attachment PART95145136322203795IMG952015122895200521.jpg
View attachment PART_1451371728627_IMG_20151228_200503.jpg
View attachment 20151223_101431.jpg
Here's another picture of the wastegate from a different angle...
I would try it; if my experience has any validity, it should work well...
You're making great progress! Happy New Year! :blob:
You're welcome!
Remember; those pictures of the wastegate were taken BEFORE it was discovered that it didn't function correctly on that one pipe. It had to be moved forward a couple of inches to the spot where that bung was. The bung didn't belong there, either. It was for the A/F meter and was moved to the exit side of the exhaust, where the exhaust comes OUT of the turbo....
You can see from this; I had NO IDEA what I was doing... #-o
It's amazing that it runs at all...
ops:
RustyPlymouth
Well-Known Member
you wanna shoot for a 45* angle at the least for the wastegate. 90* will work but not as well. im running the internal wastegate in my hx35 and it works well. ive been up to 25psi. have had no issues, no boost creep and it always spools.
How are u controlling the boost on the hx35? Just alot of adjustment?
So you put the bov in one of the cold pipes then or does it need to he close to the carb so when the butterflies close it sees the changes and opens?
So you put the bov in one of the cold pipes then or does it need to he close to the carb so when the butterflies close it sees the changes and opens?
Here's the BOV on my 360 Magnum. It seems to work fine; I think the pressure buildup in the intake system when you close the throttle happens so fast, it doesn't really matter where the BOV is; it 'll take cars of business.
That's what I was figuring as long as I didn't have it was down by the cold side of the turbo it would be fine . It was cold an rainy here today and I didn't get a whole lot done I do have a friend bringing his harbor frieght tube roller so I can roll the longer runners to clear the intake easier and not have it be a pain getting off and on the motor I looked at a video on YouTube of a guy who built a log style header and ordered short tight pre-beveled ends and it looked cool but there's alot of sharp angles for the exhaust to flow so I think longer runners with a 3 into 1 then the 2 into t3 flange will cut down on steep curves and allow the exhaust to flow since they are tiny to begin with.
Does anyone have any pics of the exhaust ports on the head with possibly a tape measure or ruler held up to help me reference and see what I'm working with on the head?
Also does anyone have that file I was looking for earlier I forgot what file format it needed to be but if you can get me a copy I'll send a set of half inch header flanges and T3 flange for FREE I'll even cover shipping this is out of mild steel not stainless. If not on here I was gonna start a new thread and see what I could come up with. Just looked and it's a dfx file
Does anyone have any pics of the exhaust ports on the head with possibly a tape measure or ruler held up to help me reference and see what I'm working with on the head?
Also does anyone have that file I was looking for earlier I forgot what file format it needed to be but if you can get me a copy I'll send a set of half inch header flanges and T3 flange for FREE I'll even cover shipping this is out of mild steel not stainless. If not on here I was gonna start a new thread and see what I could come up with. Just looked and it's a dfx file
RustyPlymouth
Well-Known Member
i used an actuator from a china turbo i had laying around. the stock holset actuator is set to around 22-23psi. little much to start out with. the china one is set for 8psi. im also running a manual boost controller. a turn of the knob is good for x amount of boost. i got a fancy one so i have two knobs. one turn of one is good for 1psi the other knob kicks out 5psi per turn. that way i can dial in the exact boost i wanna run.
bov goes as close to the carb as you can get it. it gets its signal from manifold vacuum. as soon as you let off the gas you get vacuum and that opens the bov. i hooked mine to a port on the carb that runs under the butterflies.
here is a pic of my setup. you can see the bov on the left just before the carb hat. the hose going from the actuator to the cold side of the turbo has the boost controller in it.
RustyPlymouth
Well-Known Member
here is a pic of the ports on the head. its an old pic so no tape measure. you could measure between the studs on your head to give you some reference.
Cool thanks the reason I was asking about the port size is to know whether or not I can fill the port on the flange with weld a little or just leave the flange the same size I'm gonna port the head later I have alot of experience porting mostly just port match and clean up with diesel stuff but it should make a difference even with the small valves.
RustyPlymouth
Well-Known Member
lol that pics not gonna work then. i have a bunch of time into opening up the ports. if no one gets a pic in the next few days ill get a good shot of a stock head with the tape measure when i get home.
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