$7000 paint job
- Thread starter barbee6043
- Start date
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DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
I'm a member of the "do my own painting" club. Been doing it for years on lots of different rigs, both work and personal. The most painful part these days is the cost of the materials. The rest of it is just work and if I don't like it I sand it down and do it again. I would not hire a bodyshop to paint my build cars but would take my wife's car in on an insurance claim repair. I enjoy painting cars. :happy1:
jtkaaa07
BossMan
X2, I really enjoy doing body work, would I it for a living, hell no, but for a hobby it's fun.
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
Yeah it adds up quick. Even doing just a pretty clean all over paint your talkin 2k to 3k easy if no body work is required. And for a super nice paint job your talkin bout 5k at least for paint if no body work is required, but depending on the body work required and paint color choice it's not hard to be in the 8k to 12k range. That's assuming you take it to a body shop, but one thing to remember your average body shop is probably averaging 50-60 dollars an hour for labor.
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
I did my own car, but I knew what I was getting into after about 3 weeks of just doing nothing but cut out rust.
That's when I decided to get back into painting after sending 2 of the last 5 cars out for paint and watching just "paint creep up to over 5k and that was after 4 or more blockings just to get laser straight panels. After dusting off my skills as a painter. Bah! that didn't take long seeing that it was 15 years out of date and completely useless.
Mine cost me about 1600 for materials (yeah the basecoat was cheaper nason stuff but I was doing a complete so color match was not needed.) primer and sealer were top quality, but I could not justify $400+ gallon just for a topend dupont or Glasurite solid basecoat. Now the clearcoat was EXPENSIVE and well worth it. that was my UV protection to help save the paint form major sun damage here in Florida. prep was the most labor intensive and that damn blocking just about wore my shoulders right out. (2 aleve & 4 ibprofen per 12 hours the doc told me to do saved my bacon) But it did save me $$$ I took mine on it's body cart to a shop to finish my brake line bending after paint and before cutting/buffing it and they were amazed that it only cost me $16,000 in materials to get a pretty nice job. Is the paint perfect? Nope not to me, but they only found 1 slight run in the hood corner (damn sneezes get me every time) and 2 little imperfections in the bottom trunk lip area. can they be fixed? Yep will I? maybe. I want to drive it first and then think about making it super pretty.
if I figure my hours on the sanding/blocking and general prep I might have another 5-6 k in the car going @ 23.00 per hour. BUT if I was a pro the hours could/should have been less than 1/2 of the time I took on the car. so 2-3k tops. that gives me a at most a 4600 paint job. (my mistakes were included in the hours AND materials, take them out and the cost goes down by 200 in material and 30 hours of trying to remove a curve in the rear quarters that are SUPPOSED to be there:banghead: AND another 10 or so hours to put it back IN!) I didn't catch my mistakes until I looked at a lot of other darts and realizing the curve WAS supposed to be there.DUH!
The cost of newer equipment was for me considerable, since my newest gun was a Binks #7. But that was tool costs and I never figure in a usable tool on other projects unless I have to.
So a new Devilbiss plus gun with 1.2,1.4,1.7 & 2.0 tips, finishline gun for primer with 1.7, 2.0 and 2.2 tips new air drier and other sundry supplies happened. Did I need to pay that much($750.00)? nope but I darn sure could have paid more, one of the iwata 400 guns I got to test at a body shop was in the 500-600 range just by itself and I wanted it sooooooo badly but with my skill level I decided that just wasn't available to me (yet) man did it lay down paint smoooooooooooooth and that was with ME doing it! When I do another show car for my friend I'll make him spring for that gun and show him what a super nice gun can do even at my skill level!
Oh and to the grammar police, it is a "car forum" not an "english forum". I had no problems reading it (the original poster's post) and understanding it. Heck he even made paragraph's,which I tend NOT to do a lot. Was it (and my post ) grammatically correct? nope. But I did stay at a holiday inn express though, you have a Merry Christmas.
That's when I decided to get back into painting after sending 2 of the last 5 cars out for paint and watching just "paint creep up to over 5k and that was after 4 or more blockings just to get laser straight panels. After dusting off my skills as a painter. Bah! that didn't take long seeing that it was 15 years out of date and completely useless.
Mine cost me about 1600 for materials (yeah the basecoat was cheaper nason stuff but I was doing a complete so color match was not needed.) primer and sealer were top quality, but I could not justify $400+ gallon just for a topend dupont or Glasurite solid basecoat. Now the clearcoat was EXPENSIVE and well worth it. that was my UV protection to help save the paint form major sun damage here in Florida. prep was the most labor intensive and that damn blocking just about wore my shoulders right out. (2 aleve & 4 ibprofen per 12 hours the doc told me to do saved my bacon) But it did save me $$$ I took mine on it's body cart to a shop to finish my brake line bending after paint and before cutting/buffing it and they were amazed that it only cost me $16,000 in materials to get a pretty nice job. Is the paint perfect? Nope not to me, but they only found 1 slight run in the hood corner (damn sneezes get me every time) and 2 little imperfections in the bottom trunk lip area. can they be fixed? Yep will I? maybe. I want to drive it first and then think about making it super pretty.
if I figure my hours on the sanding/blocking and general prep I might have another 5-6 k in the car going @ 23.00 per hour. BUT if I was a pro the hours could/should have been less than 1/2 of the time I took on the car. so 2-3k tops. that gives me a at most a 4600 paint job. (my mistakes were included in the hours AND materials, take them out and the cost goes down by 200 in material and 30 hours of trying to remove a curve in the rear quarters that are SUPPOSED to be there:banghead: AND another 10 or so hours to put it back IN!) I didn't catch my mistakes until I looked at a lot of other darts and realizing the curve WAS supposed to be there.DUH!
The cost of newer equipment was for me considerable, since my newest gun was a Binks #7. But that was tool costs and I never figure in a usable tool on other projects unless I have to.
So a new Devilbiss plus gun with 1.2,1.4,1.7 & 2.0 tips, finishline gun for primer with 1.7, 2.0 and 2.2 tips new air drier and other sundry supplies happened. Did I need to pay that much($750.00)? nope but I darn sure could have paid more, one of the iwata 400 guns I got to test at a body shop was in the 500-600 range just by itself and I wanted it sooooooo badly but with my skill level I decided that just wasn't available to me (yet) man did it lay down paint smoooooooooooooth and that was with ME doing it! When I do another show car for my friend I'll make him spring for that gun and show him what a super nice gun can do even at my skill level!
Oh and to the grammar police, it is a "car forum" not an "english forum". I had no problems reading it (the original poster's post) and understanding it. Heck he even made paragraph's,which I tend NOT to do a lot. Was it (and my post ) grammatically correct? nope. But I did stay at a holiday inn express though, you have a Merry Christmas.
plenty of people on here have pointed out the "advantages" of buying a straight, rustfree project, even if ya have to spend $500-1000 to have it trucked to ya.
if ya got to PAY the bodyshop for your work, then YES put the pencil to it!!!!!!!!
if ya do the work yourself, and even if ya got to buy your patch panels, and don't count your labor........ then yes, you can fix some rust, and smooth out some small dings........????
if ya got to PAY the bodyshop for your work, then YES put the pencil to it!!!!!!!!
if ya do the work yourself, and even if ya got to buy your patch panels, and don't count your labor........ then yes, you can fix some rust, and smooth out some small dings........????
jtkaaa07
BossMan
Pretty much sum's it up, yes you should try to buy the cleanest car you can, but buying something that's untouched is RARE, and even car's that look great can hide a whole lot of problems! We all know the problem areas on a A body mopar, just look for the core areas that they have the most common problems, and focus on that, panels are easy to replace, when you get into the inner structure you will need talent to fix that!
HemiMark
Well-Known Member
My 71 Demon used less than 1 pint of body filler and most of it went where the lead was taken out on the 1/4's where the roof meet..... it cost 7000.00 plus supplies! Its also BLACK and turned out beautiful...
jtkaaa07
BossMan
Great find! like I said that's pretty rare now day's, when I looked at my car I couldn't believe how clean it was too, you can eat off the floor's in that car, hard to believe it spent most of it's life in Michigan! the odometer reads 54,000 miles, and I would bet my *** it's correct!
HotLines
Realist - Free Thinker
What everyone says is true, paint costs money these days as the materials are way more costly.. Like HemiMark, my car too was straight outside of a couple little dings as well as a rust free New York car... Since I am a hand pinstriper for mostly body shops, I got to pick who was going to do my work and this complete paint job cost me 1000. around 1989, it was painted using Dupont Chromabase, which was top of the line back then.. This is what it looked like this past summer as well as today.. Yet it does have tiny dings now and I painted the hood a semi gloss because the sun hitting the hood would blind me...
Back in Time
Well-Known Member
Well I might as well give up on mine right now by most people's standard here. My TOTAL budget is around $ 7,000.00.I'm not looking for a best of show winner or anything like that....maybe a nice 10 footer at best that I can just drive occasionally to the local car show or cruise. I am very lucky in that I started with a very straight car with very minimal rust.Although I hate body work I have worked hard at it and have done quite well if I do say so myself.....Not perfect but 10 foot good.I'll know more about how good I did when I start block sanding it for final paint. I've done a few scuff and shoot paint jobs so I at least know the basics.Hoping by the time I get to that point our Car Club will be done with the new building which will be equipped with a state of the art paint booth.Then again I may be able to trade a shoot for some mechanical work which I am more comfortable with.Wish me luck...sounds like I will need it.:burnout::burnout:
swing69
fightin' socialism
I'm going to throw ~ 6K - 7K at the 65 Barracuda. Full mechanical and interior restoration.
Outside? keeping the original patina. If I had it painted....I'd bet I'd have to shell out over $10K. Early A's just aren't worth it. I never keep a car long anyway....so paint is a waste of money to me.
Outside? keeping the original patina. If I had it painted....I'd bet I'd have to shell out over $10K. Early A's just aren't worth it. I never keep a car long anyway....so paint is a waste of money to me.
HotLines
Realist - Free Thinker
Before I bring trouble, let me ask why early A's are worth less than later ones?
If I tell you how much I've turned down for my 64 Signet at least 3 times, you'd have a heart attack..
If I tell you how much I've turned down for my 64 Signet at least 3 times, you'd have a heart attack..
Example:
why are 66-67 chargers "generally" worth less than the 68-70 chargers??????
first gen chargers are a love it or hate it car. most people fall in later group.
me I like the unique features of first gen chargers, but I know if I were to go buy one, I know I can guy one for pennies on the dollar to a 68-70.
many reasons early A's don't typically bring the $$$$.
Maybe not 50 years...
Closer to 30 years...
I Quit the paint game when Imron & Deltron went green...
the67fish
Well-Known Member
My car restoring/building buddy sends 1 car out to be painted on average of 10 per year...ish and the paint jobs are running 10K-17.5K, labor and materials, top of the line quality show car paint jobs. He has 3 waiting in line to go right now, with paint&body work you get what you pay for. The price of paint is crazy high now and I dont even know what good quality paint is going for per gallon. I paid $3,500 for a two tone job on my truck 5 or 6 years ago, zero body work, Dupont Imron with Dupont Imron clear on top of that and now its $11K-12K using same materials but different painter. At the time, it was $4,500 anywhere else with the same quality/skill, the price of paint has about tripled since then.
swing69
fightin' socialism
rust free New York car...
How is someone from the west buying rust free cars from the east coast????????????
rayer:
just yankin your chain.....nice car! Early A's; run 50% less than 67 to 72s. run about 75% of 73+s. Why are 73+ less than 67 to 72s? just a pointy nose. love'em or leavem. 63-66s were not performance cars at the time.
How is someone from the west buying rust free cars from the east coast????????????
rayer:just yankin your chain.....nice car! Early A's; run 50% less than 67 to 72s. run about 75% of 73+s. Why are 73+ less than 67 to 72s? just a pointy nose. love'em or leavem. 63-66s were not performance cars at the time.
I started this post, trying to give "hope" to some of the younger crowd ( or older too) that want to consider the fact they they can learn to do some or all of their bodywork, and not have to look at the $7000 body shop jail. LOL
I didn't mean to step on any toes of those that paid the $7000-12,000 for their paint.
I didn't mean to step on any toes of those that paid the $7000-12,000 for their paint.
longarm
Car sold back to original owners
A 7 to 12K paint job on a 7K car seems a little extravagant,
but hell what do I know.
It would have to be something very special that I could see a big return on to spend that kind of money on.
I'd rather flat black it and spend my money on performance
upgrades and another car, bike or toy to play with.
Let the big dogs with their trailer queens go to the shows so
every broke dick with 8bucks to get in can point out the flaws.
but hell what do I know.
It would have to be something very special that I could see a big return on to spend that kind of money on.
I'd rather flat black it and spend my money on performance
upgrades and another car, bike or toy to play with.
Let the big dogs with their trailer queens go to the shows so
every broke dick with 8bucks to get in can point out the flaws.
the67fish
Well-Known Member
I drive my trailer queen paint job daily, 356K miles on it and no sign of slowing down any and I do put it in shows when I can, most anybody can paint a vehicle, just read the instructions on the can but the contents of the can is gonna cost you some serious money. If you want cheaper contents in the can then expect cheaper results, you get what you pay for.
longarm
Car sold back to original owners
Not picking on all the expensive paint job owners, if you love it, do it, but its not for me.
I'd buy something that's already done at a bargain price and change
it to my liking before I'd spend that amount of money on paint.
Cars, bikes and toys are interesting hobbies for me, they don't define me or rule my life.
It's only my opinion and what works for me.
To each his own.
I'd buy something that's already done at a bargain price and change
it to my liking before I'd spend that amount of money on paint.
Cars, bikes and toys are interesting hobbies for me, they don't define me or rule my life.
It's only my opinion and what works for me.
To each his own.
swing69
fightin' socialism
paying $$$$$ for paint is fine if you have it. Problem is, it keeps all the young ones out of the body shop. with the costs involved, most shops will only do insurance paid collision work. Resto work is TOO much for time and materials and people who pay out of pocket are often notoriously bad payers and unreliable. I'd really like to now how many cars have mechanics liens in the body industry!
Anyway, young'en are now doing alternatives to bodyshop work. Plasti-dip, chip guarding, or bedlining......even rat rodding (premature rusting cars). all low cost alternatives. If they paint? they try TCP global and paint in the back yard with a HF gun OR prep and let maaco shoot it. Can't blame them at all.....
Anyway, young'en are now doing alternatives to bodyshop work. Plasti-dip, chip guarding, or bedlining......even rat rodding (premature rusting cars). all low cost alternatives. If they paint? they try TCP global and paint in the back yard with a HF gun OR prep and let maaco shoot it. Can't blame them at all.....
longarm
Car sold back to original owners
I've had several cars painted by Maaco over the years, always decent looking
if you do the body work and tape it off before sending it to them.
Last one they painted for me was a totaled rebuild I did
on a 03 Honda Accord.
Looked good enough to get 5k out of on a 2k investment.
if you do the body work and tape it off before sending it to them.
Last one they painted for me was a totaled rebuild I did
on a 03 Honda Accord.
Looked good enough to get 5k out of on a 2k investment.
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
I've done the high dollar paint job thing in my past. I'll never do it again.
Sure you have a beautiful one footer that you can be proud of, but you're always worried about weather, parking, people touching it, rock chips, cleaning, cleaning, and more cleaning.
Now i'm more into driving the car in all weather conditions (except winter), and parking it where i want to. It's a lot more fun and less stressful.
My next project will be prepped and painted with Tremclad spray bombs.
Good enough for me, and another one will be on the road.
If i decide to sell it, then they can do the big buck paint job if they so choose.
Sure you have a beautiful one footer that you can be proud of, but you're always worried about weather, parking, people touching it, rock chips, cleaning, cleaning, and more cleaning.
Now i'm more into driving the car in all weather conditions (except winter), and parking it where i want to. It's a lot more fun and less stressful.
My next project will be prepped and painted with Tremclad spray bombs.
Good enough for me, and another one will be on the road.
If i decide to sell it, then they can do the big buck paint job if they so choose.
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