$7000 paint job

-
here is one of my 500 dollar TCP Global paint jobs. keep in mind this was only the second car I have ever painted in my life. I also did all the body work which was pretty extensive. this is no show stopper but came out pretty damn nice. unless I hit the lottery , I will never pay someone to do my cars. it would probably take years to get them back from the body shop .
 

Attachments

  • a132.jpg
    44.6 KB · Views: 399
  • a194.jpg
    36.2 KB · Views: 403
  • d315.jpg
    50.1 KB · Views: 409
Drug home plenty of cars when I was a kid with my brother. He is a genius. Anything mechanical he can tear apart and fix, all with almost no thought. I was stationed close enough to home to think I could get the childhood mechanics going again. He wasn't interested. He now finds parts and pieces here and there and calls me. We bullshit about stuff and that makes it worth it to me. Had my son help me on the 74 where he could and that is time I would like to have forever. He has competing interests as a teen but the time he and I spent was worth every dime. Wife and daughters hang with me. Matter of fact, the wife spots cars and tells me about them. Found a guy here local who has the knowledge and has allowed me to learn. Almost an apprenticeship. I pay him for stuff I can't do and want right. Community college has classes I will attend, but I work full time in the Army and can't do that....free time, don't have much with 6 kids. Learning and making mistakes, misjudging people, getting screwed. All part of it. I think I will have the knowledge and courage to do one myself when I retire. Four more years will be 28 years of service and I will work part time and play part time. The money spent is all relative...
 
My father and I have painted everyone of our cars. We are no body shop, painted them in a one bay garage or open car port. It is all in the prep for a good job. There is no way I could have so many cars paying someone to do them.

The last quote was like 4k for a 92 camaro that didn't have a spot of rust in it. Was just for a spray, not pulling door panels off, weatherstripping, drip rails, engine bay etc etc. We did it for under a 1000 with a 75 dollar harbor freight gun.. Then a whole lot of time wet sanding and buffing. I can see why body shops get so much but I encourage anyone to try it.



did this one 8 years ago and has held up great... 100 dollar gallon ebay urethane paint
 
i did all the the bodywork and paint on mine in my condo parking lot. I used $35 a quart non-activated single stage urethane boat paint and a TPC global gun. Maybe 500 bills + my time.
i did the bodywork on my friends car in his driveway and painted it in a booth rented for $100 for 24 hours and used Nason bc/cc, I think he paid about a grand for everything.

plenty of rust repair and correcting past mistakes on both cars, but it was well worth it.
sadly, my buddies car looks nicer than mine.
 

Attachments

  • 0615131652.jpg
    30.5 KB · Views: 376
  • 0618131908a.jpg
    49.8 KB · Views: 392
  • IMAG0333.jpg
    44.6 KB · Views: 350
  • IMAG0122.jpg
    34.4 KB · Views: 381
  • IMAG0119.jpg
    33.8 KB · Views: 359
I know everyone has a favorite color they want to paint their car, but one thing to consider if you do it yourself .... and not sure of getting the results you want, remember, lighter colors show fewer mistakes/blems, black or any dark color will show more "boogers"!. metallic are of course harder to shoot if not experienced..... or don't have the best equipment....
over the years I have seen many "first timers" buy a project, have it made perfect, haul it to some shows, then want a car to drive. they have so much in that car, they refuse to drive it, can't sell it and get their $ out of it, then either buy a decent lookin car to drive, ...... yep, store or sell the high end car off at a big loss!????? many times the case???
me personally, i'm not a guy to take cars to a show, cruise-in, that's great.... love goin to the big shows and lookin at everything..... i want a car that I have repaired all rust, and have a "decent" lookin driver. if its a really straight body, to begin with ,, then it will be EASY to have flawless job, use moderate costs materials. no bc/cc, just acrylic urethane, orange peel and all....it will sit under a roof and last me long enough. just me....
 
Yep there are all sorts of stories some good some bad"your results may vary" is good to keep in mind.I have seen guys use "van sickle" paint-some good some bad- just depends on what each person can live with.I have a 69 that I bought new still has the"factory" paint.By today's standards it is rough,but it is what it is.Would I put it up against a good grade paint job of today-no it would fall short
 
Swing69 > rust free New York car...


How is someone from the west buying rust free cars from the east coast????????????

I am a New Yorker and bought this while I was there... We have something in New York that stops rust, we put our cars in it, we don't put a washer, dryer, old clothes or use it as a storage room... It is called a garage for a reason.. You must have that in Jersey as well..
 
I plan on painting tmy 84 Dodge 1/2 ton once we get situated. Got the compressor...will by or borrow a gun and try my best. Nothing ventured, nothing gained....Got a cheap mig welder at home too that I want to get practicing with...Ya in hopes that I dont get too old and lose interest before then...LOL
 
4spdragtop said:
I plan on painting tmy 84 Dodge 1/2 ton once we get situated. Got the compressor...will by or borrow a gun and try my best. Nothing ventured, nothing gained....Got a cheap mig welder at home too that I want to get practicing with...Ya in hopes that I dont get too old and lose interest before then...LOL
Click to expand...

Just remember the most important part of the paint job is what materials you use, Iv'e allways had the best luck with this brand>:glasses7:

View attachment bud-light-beer_wide-c0e524c33b6f2beb41ea19f285c8d3e488ea610b-s6-c30.jpg
 
I did not take the time to read every single post and so this may have been brought out but take it from a seasoned bodyman, find yourself a rust free ( as possible ) vehicle and start from there.

If you do not have that option than find a good bodyman and pay him what he asks, believe me he is not getting rich from fixing your rust bucket, there is always more work than was considered initially and if you pay a good bodyman than you are paying a guy that knows all the little ins and outs that can spell out a long lasting repair.

I will soon be opening my own shop, I may be doing some restoration work, I have nearly 30 years in the trade and I DO NOT know it all!

I have always enjoyed my trade, I have been one of the lucky ones to have been given the gift of my hobby being my career but the work is hazardous and not easy. Only reason I am opening the shop is cause I dont need to get rich any longer, I want to spend the rest of my days doing quality work ( for a fair price ) cause that is what I truly enjoy. ( Also tired of working for greedy asswipes :) )

Good luck with your car.
 
4spdragtop said:
I plan on painting tmy 84 Dodge 1/2 ton once we get situated. Got the compressor...will by or borrow a gun and try my best. Nothing ventured, nothing gained....Got a cheap mig welder at home too that I want to get practicing with...Ya in hopes that I dont get too old and lose interest before then...LOL
Click to expand...

Hey Steve,I'm scrapping some old rust buckets and I think you were looking for a 67 air faceplate?I couldn't get a PM to go through so let me know
 
1930 said:
I did not take the time to read every single post and so this may have been brought out but take it from a seasoned bodyman, find yourself a rust free ( as possible ) vehicle and start from there.

If you do not have that option than find a good bodyman and pay him what he asks, believe me he is not getting rich from fixing your rust bucket, there is always more work than was considered initially and if you pay a good bodyman than you are paying a guy that knows all the little ins and outs that can spell out a long lasting repair.

I will soon be opening my own shop, I may be doing some restoration work, I have nearly 30 years in the trade and I DO NOT know it all!

I have always enjoyed my trade, I have been one of the lucky ones to have been given the gift of my hobby being my career but the work is hazardous and not easy. Only reason I am opening the shop is cause I dont need to get rich any longer, I want to spend the rest of my days doing quality work ( for a fair price ) cause that is what I truly enjoy. ( Also tired of working for greedy asswipes :) )

Good luck with your car.
Click to expand...

NOT sure where Brandon, USA is??? but here's someone to checkout, for those that don't want to risk " paintshop jail" with the ins, shop? and don't have the desire to learn to do themselves ( theirselves) someone quickly tell me!????? HA

I take the time to type this comment, at risk of those " grammar and typing" police???? perhaps a tutorial in needed by those of us not as well prepared????? LOL merry christmas
 
jtkaaa07 said:
Great find! like I said that's pretty rare now day's, when I looked at my car I couldn't believe how clean it was too, you can eat off the floor's in that car, hard to believe it spent most of it's life in Michigan! the odometer reads 54,000 miles, and I would bet my *** it's correct!
Click to expand...

:cheers:
 
Yea, my cars are made to be driven.
Show cars for the lawn chair crowd have paint jobs that are better than what came from the factory. They weren't that great back in the day.
There's my rationalization for doing good 20 20 paint jobs, anyway.

I've been buying Sherwin Williams acrylic enamel for years. Can't even remember what I last paid for it because it just isn't' that much. Maybe 40-70$ per quart? They keep changing the formulation and last time I asked for the "pro" line because the other seemed thinner. There are more than one in the new "Dimension".
I have started painting in the fresh air more because of the mist rather than in my shop.
I know the aircraft two part polyurethane we used had isocyanates in it. That stuff stunk.
Doesn't smell anything like the single stage enamel.
Now I've got to research the enamel and see if it has isocyanates in it.
Got an idea?


GeorgeH said:
The problem with doing anything other than a high end paint job is the difference of what is acceptable for the painter and what is acceptable for the customer. 2 different things. The first thing most say is it doesn't need to be perfect.

Isocyanates are still present in the activated materials and you can't smell them. low VOC applies to the solvents mostly. It's really difficult to have 100% protection as isocyanates can be absorbed directly through the skin and eyes. If your mixing it on the bench your getting exposure. For the DIY guys, read the MSDS sheets of what your being exposed to. Those half masks don't protect you. It's hard to put a value on the exposure.
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

  • paint (Large).jpg
    31.6 KB · Views: 271
1st of all, if it is their money, they can spend it how they see fit without seeking our permission, or approval. 2nd of all, if one is on a limited budget, maybe they can't afford to spend 700.00 on materials only to have it look like a dump, then repay someone else to do it right. Or perhaps they don't have the time to mess around with it. Or perhaps they love the mechanics (engine building) but hate body work. And why point out just the body work??????? There are people that put 7 grand in drive train to go 12's in the 1/4, and somebody else gets there for 1500 bucks. By the way, there are reasons why one 72 duster goes for 15 grand, and another one goes for 5 grand, and both been repainted.......
 
barbee6043 said:
NOT sure where Brandon, USA is??? but here's someone to checkout, for those that don't want to risk " paintshop jail" with the ins, shop? and don't have the desire to learn to do themselves ( theirselves) someone quickly tell me!????? HA

I take the time to type this comment, at risk of those " grammar and typing" police???? perhaps a tutorial in needed by those of us not as well prepared????? LOL merry christmas
Click to expand...
I do not know how to update my profile, maybe I cannot cause I am not a paying member?

I am in Brandon Florida.

My shop is in Plant City Florida, both outside of Tampa area.

My plan is to initially buy wrecked vehicles, I like the vehicles that have been totaled by the insurance companies cause they can be purchased relatively cheap, re-built and put back on the road. Majority of these vehicles had no justification to go away other than the fact that the insurer made more money and no liability getting rid of it thru salvage.
 
adriver said:
Yea, my cars are made to be driven.
Show cars for the lawn chair crowd have paint jobs that are better than what came from the factory. They weren't that great back in the day.
There's my rationalization for doing good 20 20 paint jobs, anyway.

I've been buying Sherwin Williams acrylic enamel for years. Can't even remember what I last paid for it because it just isn't' that much. Maybe 40-70$ per quart? They keep changing the formulation and last time I asked for the "pro" line because the other seemed thinner. There are more than one in the new "Dimension".
I have started painting in the fresh air more because of the mist rather than in my shop.
I know the aircraft two part polyurethane we used had isocyanates in it. That stuff stunk.
Doesn't smell anything like the single stage enamel.
Now I've got to research the enamel and see if it has isocyanates in it.
Got an idea?
Click to expand...

Here you go......

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/architects-specifiers-designers/products/msds/
 
I messed with these cars for 30+ years before I made any attempt at body and paint work. Up until now it was whatever the car was already wearing, or black primer. So, I finally decided to jump in and learn the skills.
Here's the results. Three cars done so far...three cars needing to be completely redone.
Total disaster? No! Hundreds of hours and thousands in material wasted? NO! I'm learning the skills by trial and error. I see the mistakes I made on each car once it is completed and work on correcting those on my next. And yes, each one is getting just a little bit better. When I do the next, I can pretty confidently say the job will be presentable and take less time than any of the previous ones.
I'm not doing any of these cars to sell...they're all permanent members of my fleet. I'm actually looking forward to redoing them! The plan is to work my way through, get all nine of them in color, and then go back to where I started and do it again. By that point, I'm sure I'll be capable of show quality work.
Do I have three cars with terrible paint jobs? Yes. Have I learned a thousand things and expanded my knowledge and skills enormously? Absolutely! And that's what this hobby is really all about.
 
I never had the money to pay someone, and I always want to know how something's done and why. It's what got me into engines and everything else, and how I got into steel and bodywork. I do not consider myself a pro - but I do make money at it. The first attempts were - um - operational...lol. but not pretty. but we learn best by making mistakes. Currently I'm doing more steel and body work than engines...lol. That's normally what I do over the winter as I have a heated garage and many don't. Last summer was a Gremlin, before & after that a '70 Cuda (ongoing BIG project), later this winter will be my Chevelle I'm flipping.
Here's the latest:
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?84086-71-Super-Bee-resto-mod
In terms of the $7K figure - materials included, a typical Northeast mopar will need every bit of that. The cowl on this Super Bee is going to be a 25+hr deal - just the cowl. I've got 20 tied up in steel and fabrication. Nevermind the rest of it. one thing is for sure - moving forward if a car needs cowl work and the parts are not repoduced - I'm seriously rethinking doing it!
 
might I just add this: all of us "amateurs can check our work with a simple mist coat, block that, and SEE if there are any boogeers!( yes , English majors, a slang term for mistakes),,,,, if not, it is a matter of lying down that final coat correctly and painting in a place where ya get no dirt in it????? or if ya like me, I don't care!

the $7000 engine????? maybe someone will start a thread to help the young guy or financiually challenged means to rebuiuld an adequate engine with out spending the $7 grand????? or read back issued of Mopar Action!???? LOL
 
adriver said:
Yea, my cars are made to be driven.
Show cars for the lawn chair crowd have paint jobs that are better than what came from the factory. They weren't that great back in the day.
There's my rationalization for doing good 20 20 paint jobs, anyway.

I've been buying Sherwin Williams acrylic enamel for years. Can't even remember what I last paid for it because it just isn't' that much. Maybe 40-70$ per quart? They keep changing the formulation and last time I asked for the "pro" line because the other seemed thinner. There are more than one in the new "Dimension".
I have started painting in the fresh air more because of the mist rather than in my shop.
I know the aircraft two part polyurethane we used had isocyanates in it. That stuff stunk.

Virtually any materials that has an activator, catalyst, hardener or whatever they may call it has isocyanates, some acrylics can be shot without a hardener but it kills the
Doesn't smell anything like the single stage enamel.
Now I've got to research the enamel and see if it has isocyanates in it.
Got an idea?
Click to expand...
Anything that is 2 part requiring hardener, catalyst, or activator as far as paint goes. Some acrylics can be shot without hardener so depends on what your using. Paint jobbers have to provide the msds if you ask. They are required to have a copy of the msds for all materials in their store and in any "right to know" state the shop(commercial) has to have a copy on premises. The rules might be stricter now.
 
barbee6043 said:
the $7000 engine????? maybe someone will start a thread to help the young guy or financiually challenged means to rebuiuld an adequate engine with out spending the $7 grand????? or read back issued of Mopar Action!???? LOL
Click to expand...
Ummm..... why does it have to be a young guy?? and what age qualifies for young? Are you referring to RustyRatRod (Rob) that said "about 7 grand" to build a 400 hp 360 right?? Or the 60 year old that puts 7 grand in his small block stock eliminator? It's just some don't want their paint to look like they went to Kmart and wrapped up 27.99 in 12 rattle cans of Krylon... LOL
P.S. my last paint job was about 700 bucks by a friend that worked for a bodyshop. Just sayin, some people are willing to pay for a top quality, some don't, their choice, their money
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top