71 Dart 410 stroker ..

-
zero...........

In Indio tonight...dropped off heads....had dinner with Crackedback...

dam...gas is 60 cents a gallon more than Vegas...ouch...

glad i brought 10 gallons in cans with me...lol...saved 6 dollars that Moonbeam Brown did not get.
 
Last edited:
machinist looked at piston and valve....said it looks like a component failure...simple terms for FABO people..the head broke off.
 
Great.... More losses... :)
Where those OEM Valves? Or aftermarket?
Ether way.... Chit Happens with us Mopar guys! Rite?.... lol
Hope Crackedback had a few good jokes?
 
They were the stock 11/32 stainless steel eddy valves....we have used those heads for 7 seasons....flat tappet cam...dual spring only about 140ish on the seat...Oct 2016 intakes were replaced with 2.08 intakes but left the stock 1.60s in them...Hundred dollars more at that time would have saved alot of bucks now..LOL

Should be fixed around the end of the month...take another trip to pick them up along with a set of Indy X heads that are being upgraded......

new schedule out for LVMS shows 1st race 16th of March...got some time...
 
Good to see Tony in the neighborhood. Thanks for stopping in and good to read you got home safe.

Yeah we both had some pretty funny jokes, stories.
 
Wow.. I thought it was going too take them longer to get that 4-Wide deal done? Those guys are really move-in to get that done by March !!!!!!
 
Well..they got the largest general contractor in nevada doing the work Las Vegas Paving who has more then enough resources to get the job done. I am sure they got a completion date they have to hit. And I know they are not working for FREE.
 
crackedback said:
Good to see Tony in the neighborhood. Thanks for stopping in and good to read you got home safe.

Yeah we both had some pretty funny jokes, stories.
Click to expand...

Could have talked for days about the clowns on here....LOL
 
70aarcuda said:
machinist looked at piston and valve....said it looks like a component failure...simple terms for FABO people..the head broke off.
Click to expand...
I had to replace the exhaust valves every 4 seasons in my W2 small block. If I ran them any longer it would pull a stem out of the exhaust valve. And it didn't matter what brand of stainless valve it was.
 
Just talked to the machine shop and the all the heads will be done and ready to be picked up on Feb 2.
 
tvt59 said:
I had to replace the exhaust valves every 4 seasons in my W2 small block. If I ran them any longer it would pull a stem out of the exhaust valve. And it didn't matter what brand of stainless valve it was.
Click to expand...
4 seasons is not 6-7 runs on a new motor that failed.
Machinist could be wrong. Only way to know is check piston to valve clearance. .090 intake .100 exhaust. Throw a head on with some clay
Or better yet I use light checking spring at 10deg btdc and other valve at 10 degrees atdc, that is always where the closest clearance is at. If you don,t have those numbers, you have potential trouble. If you change cam timing you also change the clearance numbers and need to recheck. This motor has all aftermarket parts from different manufacturers. Rods, pistons,stroker crank,cam, how do you know what cha got for clearance if you do not check. Trying to figure out whether the head broke off the valve stem
Or the piston hit the valve head and broke it off, the damage would look the same. It's like what came first the chicken or the egg lol.
IMHO.
 
Duane said:
4 seasons is not 6-7 runs on a new motor that failed.
Machinist could be wrong. Only way to know is check piston to valve clearance. .090 intake .100 exhaust. Throw a head on with some clay
Or better yet I use light checking spring at 10deg btdc and other valve at 10 degrees atdc, that is always where the closest clearance is at. If you don,t have those numbers, you have potential trouble. If you change cam timing you also change the clearance numbers and need to recheck. This motor has all aftermarket parts from different manufacturers. Rods, pistons,stroker crank,cam, how do you know what cha got for clearance if you do not check. Trying to figure out whether the head broke off the valve stem
Or the piston hit the valve head and broke it off, the damage would look the same. It's like what came first the chicken or the egg lol.
IMHO.
Click to expand...
I could get about 1200 passes before it would pull an exhaust stem out. Just metal fatigue, I guess.
 
tvt59 said:
I could get about 1200 passes before it would pull an exhaust stem out. Just metal fatigue, I guess.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by pull the stem out. You had the head pull right off the valve. Did you have a drastic failure that broke the motor.
I am not understanding the failure you are describing. Could you elaborate a little bit please.
 
Duane said:
What do you mean by pull the stem out. You had the head pull right off the valve. Did you have a drastic failure that broke the motor.
I am not understanding the failure you are describing. Could you elaborate a little bit please.
Click to expand...
Valve failure.
 
I think Duane is asking if the motor suffered catastrophic damage.
It sounded as if tvt59 stated it as a casual problem.
 
racerhog said:
Great.... More losses... :)
Where those OEM Valves? Or aftermarket?
Ether way.... Chit Happens with us Mopar guys! Rite?.... lol
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
back when I was racing a hemi, I knew a guy that blew (at last count for me) 47 rat motors. He was a .010 faster than me , but his Camaro was stripped while mine wasn`t, yeah I was probly 600 pounds heavier than him. He told me one time that it was actually 50 something rats , before he went back to fords. One of two breakages I had (TRANS EXPLOSION), and a driveshaft on the big end, I heard a remark about needing to get the car off the track. I told all of them I didn`t give a %^&* , after all the chevys we had waited on to get the track cleaned up, in 14 yrs. of racing .
Click to expand...
 
rumblefish360 said:
Lots-O-spring pressure I’m assuming?
Click to expand...
Not really.
Ive just got done reading the entire thread and when i looked at the pictures i saw thee exact same indicators duane describes. That one made contact BEFORE it broke into pieces. Thoughts are not enough spring pressure and to end i would factor the cam being advanced expoilted that.
If the cam is what i think it is, 155-160 seat is where they would be happy.
My advice to all is change the springs everytime you change the valves.
Happy drag racing
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Not really.
Ive just got done reading the entire thread and when i looked at the pictures i saw thee exact same indicators duane describes. That one made contact BEFORE it broke into pieces. Thoughts are not enough spring pressure and to end i would factor the cam being advanced expoilted that.
If the cam is what i think it is, 155-160 seat is where they would be happy.
My advice to all is change the springs everytime you change the valves.
Happy drag racing
Click to expand...
I could be wrong on what I think caused the failure. It could have broke the valve stem.
It is possible that Tony checked the valve to piston clearance and just did not post that he did.
I know that lots of builders like to run 11/32 diameter valves because they are a bit lighter, and help air flow a bit.
I stay with 3/8 because more bullit proof.
But I am trying to emphasize to eliminate guess work and speculation when building the motor. Those recommended piston to valve clearance are recommended for a reason.
Connecting rods stretch at high rpm getting closer to the valves and heads. Valve springs can float if springs get weak and the lifters are not accurately following the cam profile. Timing chains stretch and always have some slop to them. These things will use up some of that clearance, but if you have enough you avoid catastrophe. If you were marginal to begin with and the clearance is not enough, the result is expensive.
I have had a cam with .585 lift that would not clear the Pistons adequately. Had to get valve reliefs deepened at machine shop.
My current build has over .707 lift and with cam at 108 centreline
Has .135 clearance on both valves without modification to Pistons.
Hats off to Ross racing Pistons for getting it right.
That's how much difference there can be in the grind of different cam lobe profiles. You have to check piston to valve clearance at the same time you are degreeing the cam because the two are interrelated to one another. IMHO. But occasionally parts can just break.
But in this case I think the clearance was not enough because of the mark in the piston valve relief.
 
70aarcuda said:
No...PAC 1903 if I remember off the top of my head....dual spring 140 lbs at 1.80
Click to expand...
Tony after reading all the little blips you made here and there... i respect you more for being honest to post it. **** happens, to anyone, and beer happens too...well hopefully it does or it wouldn't be quite as comical. Cheers.
I learned long ago, not as hard as you, not to run light.
Found springs spinning...they were digging into the spring pads & vsi's....look at the valve stem tips for the roller tip pattern....if it looks like a star on your telephone....lol its trying to tell you something! Lucky for me it just went flat at the top end instead of flat into the pistons.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top