71 Dart get 408/ Trick Flow Heads....

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IQ52 said:
Gotta be active 'cause 'Social Distancing' around here is........Drive 30 miles outta town, hike 1-1/2 hours to a mountain ridge, glass deer and elk for 45 minutes, hike 1-1/2 hours back to truck and drive to the shop. When it stops snowing now and the sun comes out.......hike 6 miles in and spend a few days camping with my son.
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How much snowpack is left in your area ?
Quite a bit down here .
 
Got the rockers all adjusted today......poured 5 qts of 10w-30 in it...put a filter on it....put a oil pressure gauge on it....

Using a speed handle I got 70 psi of oil pressure...
going to coat the cam lobes with paste again......then put the intake manifold on it....

still short a couple of freeze plugs....getting there...

Need to get new slicks on 75 Duster and get it out of garage......
 
IQ52 said:
I think the Super Victor is a real dud. With it on the 424/360 I could only get 470 lb-ft @ 3,000 rpm, 570 lb-ft @ 5,000 and 620+ hp @ 6,300 rpm. Poor thing is real chock block material.
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I have one on my 416 with Indy TA heads and the port job, 950 QF carb . 10.29 et in my Duster 5000 stall in a 998 with low gear 4.56 dana 31x13 MT tire.

stolend.jpg
 
Ok....bolted the Super Victor on to the engine....got one bolt I can not get a wrench on ...using 12 pt heads and it will not work on that bolt hole...got plenty of time to get one bolt..
 
If I remember right with my super Victor I had to cut down a bolt or two. Short enough to sneak into the hole, long enough to hold. Just screw a nut into it before you cut it then you can dress the thread and screw the nut off.
 
pittsburghracer said:
If I remember right with my super Victor I had to cut down a bolt or two. Short enough to sneak into the hole, long enough to hold. Just screw a nut into it before you cut it then you can dress the thread and screw the nut off.
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I got bolts short enough...they are 12 pts heads...i can not get the box end of the 3/8 wrench...it hits the intake port....if i get a regular 3/ 8 bolt...i can use the open end of the wrench...i got buckets of bolts i can got thru...

I had to get some grass mowed on that property.....so i did not look...lol......now I am sneezing up a storm .....need to go to the store and sneeze.........Lol
 
70aarcuda said:
Ok....bolted the Super Victor on to the engine....got one bolt I can not get a wrench on ...using 12 pt heads and it will not work on that bolt hole...got plenty of time to get one bolt..
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For the inboard bolts, I found what works best is- dropping the bolt into the hole before putting the intake one, and then lifting them up as I installed it.

There was a discussion about it in the fuel/air section, let me see if I can find it.
 
70aarcuda said:
I got bolts short enough...they are 12 pts heads...i can not get the box end of the 3/8 wrench...it hits the intake port....if i get a regular 3/ 8 bolt...i can use the open end of the wrench...i got buckets of bolts i can got thru...

I had to get some grass mowed on that property.....so i did not look...lol......now I am sneezing up a storm .....need to go to the store and sneeze.........Lol
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If you don't mind modifying a tool, I've made clearance for those instances by notching the box so it looks like a tubing flare nut wrench and then grinding down the perimiter a bit to get some clearance. Usually can get at least 45 degrees rotation. Not enough torque to worry about.
 
dusmon said:
I have one on my 416 with Indy TA heads and the port job, 950 QF carb . 10.29 et in my Duster 5000 stall in a 998 with low gear 4.56 dana 31x13 MT tire.

View attachment 1715506157
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@dusmon

Looks like you might be another Canadian member judging by that photo? Great looking Duster, do you have any more photos you could share?
 
70aarcuda said:
Ok....bolted the Super Victor on to the engine....got one bolt I can not get a wrench on ...using 12 pt heads and it will not work on that bolt hole...got plenty of time to get one bolt..
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I had to grind on that super victor to make room for bolts and distributor to fit. So test fit it as well as the valve covers. Had to clearance them as well.
 
valve cover fit....will test fit distributor tomorrow after i get back from Dentist's Dart...lol
 
i have to grind intake for distributor to fit on my super victor as well. also had to grind on the valve cover lip for them to fit
 
lips on valve covers are done.....had problems on those way back went...lol
 
With the six point 3/8” or 7/16” headed bolts(like a header bolt)...... you can use an open end wrench.
 
yes.....I plan on digging thru a bucket of bolts to find 6 pt 3/8 head bolt...just not in a hurry....lol

one of the new slicks i mounted saturday on the 75 duster is flat....crap...
 
I have ground a little taper on the end of the bolt... Kind of like a body bolt..
 
j par said:
I have ground a little taper on the end of the bolt... Kind of like a body bolt..
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That works too but at that point the threads aren’t holding anything anyway so why not just hack them off? 3/8-1 3/4 inch bolts or 3/8-1 1/4 inch bolts are common sizes doing car work but not easily found at your local stores. Luckily my local Ace Hardware store carries them but Tractor Supply doesn’t.
 
TurboGLH said:
For the inboard bolts, I found what works best is- dropping the bolt into the hole before putting the intake one, and then lifting them up as I installed it.

There was a discussion about it in the fuel/air section, let me see if I can find it.
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I ALWAYS GROUND A LITTLE CLEARANCE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE RUNNER -------IF i`M UNDERSTANDING THIS RIGHT /? Disregard caps--
attwoods or tractor supply for the bolts.
 
pittsburghracer said:
That works too but at that point the threads aren’t holding anything anyway so why not just hack them off? 3/8-1 3/4 inch bolts or 3/8-1 1/4 inch bolts are common sizes doing car work but not easily found at your local stores. Luckily my local Ace Hardware store carries them but Tractor Supply doesn’t.
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I always seem to have trouble of course with the last bolt and it was due to what seems like core shift... it seems like the manifold was guiding the bolt to the flat surface of the head and not into the little bit of whole being revealed so if I taper the bolt just a little bit it could wedge in between the two and finally work its way in... But Tony could be having a completely different problem.. I'm just saying that because it's the only problem I've ever had and I do believe honestly it was on a cast iron manifold...
 
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