71 Dodge Dart Swinger in England

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There's a thread on here somewhere where somebody stuck a GM 4-pin module in a hollowed-out Mopar electronic box. Since your 71 dart is already converted to electronic, mod the mopar box for a GM 4 pin, or find a burnt out mopar box you can gut out and mod, then you don't need the custom bracket on the distributor, or need to rewire anything under the hood, and it looks stock. You still will need the upgraded coil and a jumper wire across the ballast wires.

Both my cars were originally points ignition so I wanted them to appear somewhat like they still have points ignition. Also make sure that ignition box has a good case ground to where its bolted down. A poor ignition box ground may be giving you that stumble.
 
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moparmat2000 said:
Yup thats the baby. Either Delco, or Standard. I had a few issues with delphi modules not working correctly. The pinout on my schematic from the magnetic pickup to the ignition module should be correct if you wire it that way and it doesn't run properly just swap the leads going from the magnetic pickup to the module and then it should run fine
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2 of these and an ignition service kit (cap, rotor and leads)on order
 
Hidden HEI. Its mounting lugs need to be grounded to the chassis. Pic appears to be a project in work.

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uber cool said:
I like that, good idea and much neater. Would be nice to also eliminate the old electronic ignition.

What would you set the timing at for tickover, say 800 rpm. 8 Deg BTDC with vac disconnected?

Also whats the purpose of this plate between carb and manifold?

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If the manifold flange is a spreadbore flange and the carb is a squarebore carb , its an adaotor plate to mate a squarebore carb to a spreadbore intake.

First pic is a spreadbore intake, second pic is a square bore. If your intake is like first pic at carb mounting flange where its not a square hole, you need adaptor plate to mate your eddy carb which is a squarebore carb. If you have an intake with carb mounting flange like in second pic with a square hole, you dont need the adaptor plate, and just need a gasket between the carb and intake manifold. Spreadbore intakes are for guys that run some holley carbs or GM rochester carbs with large secondary venturies. To give em room, thats also why those intakes have a dual bolt pattern with 8 threaded holes. Line up the ones that work with your holley or GM carb, or use the flat plate, and put on a squarebore .The squarebore intake uses the Edelbrock, or Carter AFB or AVS squarebore carb. Only one bolt pattern needed.

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Ok i hear ya, it goes that way sometimes. Today. I had to go to work for a few hours, then change oil in wifes car, then go watch my 12 year old play a sanctioned basketball game at school. No mopar stuff for me either. Wondering what you thought about gutting a mopar box and putting the HEI module in it so you dont need to mod your wiring harness, and about the intake carb flange differences.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Ok i hear ya, it goes that way sometimes. Today. I had to go to work for a few hours, then change oil in wifes car, then go watch my 12 year old play a sanctioned basketball game at school. No mopar stuff for me either. Wondering what you thought about gutting a mopar box and putting the HEI module in it so you dont need to mod your wiring harness, and about the intake carb flange differences.
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Don't think I will gut the original box. As mopar parts hard to come by in UK. Might make a heatsink on my milling machine and mount in place of original box. The inlet manifold is like the second photo. The centre bridge piece is slightly recessed. Is that to allow a little fuel air mixture balancing between each side? I guess I don't need the plate then I'll post a photo of inlet tomorrow to confirm.
 
Yes, having the divider milled slightly to balance it out is an old racers trick. It works. It balances out the intake pulses since the firing order is constantly going left bank, right bank every pulse.

Post a pic of the bottom of the carb too, but if carb venturi is designed to mate to a square bore intake and your intake is a square bore then all you need is a gasket.

I'd recommend to poke around on fabo and put an ad in the parts wanted section. I bet theres somebody here who has a mopar electronic box that doesnt work that they are going to pitch in the trash can that you can gut and mod. They may even send it to you for just cost of shipping if it doesnt work. I dont have any of these, but if i had a shot one, id send it to you.
 
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I checked today and the inlet is indeed spreadbore, which explains the adaptor plate. Spent the afternoon cleaning the carb by hand and then remembered we have a hot parts washer at work! So packed up and went inside as its cold. Parts scheduled to arrive Friday.

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Carb rebuilt and back together. The float bowls where quiet dirty at the bottom and I found the floats where set incorrectly. Seem to run better now but don't think we have it 100% right.

I need to check the ignition timing and vac lines, as im sure it's not set up right.

Have a look at the photo below. This is how it came connected ie there was a hose on the red and yellow lines, ive plugged these for now to get it running just at tickover. Not sure if I need the red line from manifold to carb? surely this would just be pulling manifold vac through the carb? The vac line from the dizzy does that go to the yellow line, red side , or manifold vac?

My thoughts are the yellow line (RHS of carb as stood from the front) is the same as the the vac point on the manifold? and either of this is to be connected to the dizzy. and the red line is not need and should be plugged at the manifold and carb?

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Next question ignition timing . I've read set at 0 BTDC static. At 800 rpm should be about 8BTDC with vac disconnected and at 3000 rpm 36 BTDC with vac connected. Does this sound correct?

Running at 800 rpm and 8 BTDC it not idling correct i can hear it firing in the headers ( sounds like the manifold gasket leaking) if a retard it further ( turn dizzy anti clockwise) it will run better, But if I go too far its then hard to start. Just I thought at this point i still have the dizzy vac disconnected, maybe this should be connected to the manifold so it only pulls the timing back when running?
 
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I check my timing idling full warmed up with vac disconnected and plugged, once its connected, the mark runs off the scale. It sounds about right 8-10 BTDC w line disconnected. Running it open headers can also make it seem to feel like a stumble. If your car is factory A/C theres a vac line that goes from the back of the intake manifold to inside the car. It operates the vacuum solenoids for the blend doors etc. If not just plug it at the intake manifold.

The carbs usually come with more vacuum ports than needed since they are universal carburetors, just plug the unneeded ones with rubber vacuum caps. The routing of the yellow is fine, but the distributor body should be facing where the vacuum advance points towards the right side of the car, and the vacuum line should route along the right side of the intake manifold and stay away from the linkages.
 
Ok still running rough anything above idle, feels like cylinder(s) missing.

whats Ive done so far

Stripped and rebuilt carb - floats reset 7/16 closed 1" open
stripped and rebuilt dizzy air gap 0.08 thou
new plug leads, plugs, rotor arm, dizzy cap
timing set and rechecked many times at 8 BTDC at 800 rpm (ish) Played around this mark with engine running to find sweet spot, vac re connected
ignition box earth cleaned and checked
firing order checked many times
all cylinders 155 PSI

any other ideas?? I might try another coil to test/eliminate that
 
having looked at the dizzy a bit more tonight I'm thinking I might have phasing issue or bad reluctor as it has a couple of chunks out of it where it must have hit the pickup in the past. Hmm dizzy out again tomorrow for another good looking at.
 
Also dist vac advance should sit towards right side of the engine, not left side. If you pull it out, check mechanical advance to see if its sticking. Does your vac advance hold vacuum? Do you have exhaust hooked back up?
 
Full exhaust installed now I only ran it on headers for first startup. It too loud otherwise. Yes vac does hold on dizzy. When you say on RHS are you referring to passenger side? If so I've now down that too to clear carb accelerator cable etc.
 
Yep passenger side, route your vacuum line around passenger side of carb too.
 
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OK thank yes done that and reset plug leads in dizzy cap. I'm fairly sure it a dizzy problem maybe phasing or worn reluctor So dizzy going coming out again to check tomorrow.
 
Check shaft to housing side to side play, and shim the air gap with .006" brass or stainless shim stock. I cant remember what the ohm value of the magnetic pick up coil is to test w a meter but i am sure you find that on the net. If its "no bueno", rock auto has these made by standard for pretty cheap, along with a new reluctor if needed. I wonder if its maybe the ignition module or ignition coil giving you a fit.
 
If your mechanical advance is sticking you will know it if when you slowly bring the rpm up to a higher rpm lets say 2,000 and hold it there, it will stumble as its getting to 2,000 then when you hold it at 2,000 rpm the stumble goes away as the vac advance catches up.
 
No play in dizzy shaft .However reluctor must have rubbed at some point on pickup as has a Grove in it. In not convinviced about the mech advance either. If you rev it and hold it at anything above idle it miss fires. Was going to go in garage tonight but it - 2C.so watching fantonworks on TV. Boy he knows how to charge!
 
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